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Melted Two Charge Controllers in One Week

RebelRed

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Aug 2, 2022
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Hello, I'm new here and new to solar. I bought a 400w Grape solar kit from a big box store about 6 months ago. It included two 200w panels and a 40A PWM controller. I added a single Renogy 200ah AGM battery and a 2000w pure sine inverter. The panels each have a 20A fuse inline before the controller. I am using 40' of 10AWG wire from the panels. The panels are connected together with the included Y connectors, + to + and - to -.

This system mainly powers a mini fridge which draws 54w while running, and runs between 25 and 50% of the time depending on ambient temperature. We also charge two cell phones, a tablet and a run a single 6w lightbulb. I also have a 3.5a 12v water pump that gets used for the shower. That is wired direct to the battery, as is the 2000w inverter.

Everything work fine for the last six months, despite mostly cloudy and rainy weather this summer and having trees blocking direct sunlight for half the day. Then I noticed that my battery was getting lower and lower over the course of a couple weeks. I was used to seeing a readout of 13-14V while charging, and 12.7-12.8V a while after the sun went down. But now it was only getting up to 12.2-12.4 at rest. One day I came home from work and found the battery down to 11.7V.

I panicked and worried I'd done major damage to my expensive battery and started frantically checking all my connections. That's when I noticed the negative solar panel connector on the controller was melted as was the plastic around it. The connection still felt tight. I disconnected the controller and called around for a replacement. Unfortunately the only place around that had one was Harbor Freight and the biggest one they had was 30A. I thought this would get me by for a week while I wait for a new 40A controller in the mail. I know my panels are capable of exceeding 30A but I watch the readout obsessively and have never seen them go higher than 24.5A.

I connected the controller to the battery and all seemed well. As soon as I hooked up the panels the new temporary controller it started beeping like crazy. It wouldn't tell me what was wrong but for a moment I got it to chill out and it was displaying an input current of 33.5 amps! I found this reading to be dubious because it was 4pm, 25% of the panels area was shaded by a tree and even it direct sun I've only ever seen 24.5 amps. So, I took one 200w panel out of the circuit and the readout changed to 14.5 amps. That still seemed way off to me but I felt safer for the time being.

The next day I came home to a voltage of 12.0 after a mostly sunny day. The panel was in pretty decent light but the controller readout was 0 amps. I rechecked my connections and nothing. Out of curiosity I reconnected both panels because by this point the sun was mostly obscured by trees. It immediately jumped up to 33 amps again and started beeping. I disconnected the second panel and it dropped back down to 0 amps. At this point I walked away for the day.

Next day at work I get an urgent text from my wife. The controller is beeping again, this time with only one panel connected. I told her to cover the panel with a blanket and see if it stops and it did. I come home from work and my battery is now down to 11.7V despite me charging the battery to 100% with my generator and a 15a charger before bed the previous night. So I disconnected the controller and re-connected my 15a battery charger. Upon inspection I noticed that this controller had melted as well. This time not at the terminal but about midway up the chassis, as if something internal caused the heat.

I'm at a loss. I'm afraid to connect my new controller when it arrives later this week. Clearly something is right. I don't have more money to throw at this set up and now I'm deeply regretting not just buying a propane refrigerator. Can someone please help?
 
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Please consider using paragraphs like this so we don't have to decipher a wall of text. Hit <Return> twice to begin a new paragraph. Thusly...

That's when I noticed the negative solar panel connector on the controller was melted as was the plastic around it.

I am guessing this is was a loose connection. Loose = heat = melting.

I noticed that this controller had melted as well

It would be helpful to know the specs of the panel. Note that the HF listing says: "For use with solar arrays typically 15-22 volts, 25 volts max". Compare 25v to the Voc listed on the label of your 200w panel and let us know.


while I wait for a new 40A controller in the mail

I suspect when you get the new 40A MPPT and secure the connections it will work as designed.
 
Please consider using paragraphs like this so we don't have to decipher a wall of text. Hit <Return> twice to begin a new paragraph. Thusly...



I am guessing this is was a loose connection. Loose = heat = melting.



It would be helpful to know the specs of the panel. Note that the HF listing says: "For use with solar arrays typically 15-22 volts, 25 volts max". Compare 25v to the Voc listed on the label of your 200w panel and let us know.




I suspect when you get the new 40A MPPT and secure the connections it will work as designed.
The max voltage is 20.31 according to their site. So I suppose that would mean 40.62V... woops.
 
Can you show the pictures of your setup, and the pictures of the melted connectors?
OP: The next day I came home to a voltage of 12.0 after a mostly sunny day. The panel was in pretty decent light but the controller readout was 0 amps. I rechecked my connections and nothing. Out of curiosity I reconnected both panels because by this point the sun was mostly obscured by trees. It immediately jumped up to 33 amps again and started beeping. I disconnected the second panel and it dropped back down to 0 amps. At this point I walked away for the day.

33A reading is the battery charging current reading, correct? Total panels current of two 200W panels in parallel will not produce that much current,
If Vmp is around 20V then the Imp will be about 200W/20Vmp = 10A, Isc may be about 12A at most.
 
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The max voltage is 20.31 according to their site. So I suppose that would mean 40.62V... woops.

As others have correctly pointed out, in parallel the voltages remain the same. However, the 200w panels I am seeing that mention 20.31v anywhere have 20.31Vmp and 24.35Voc. It's Voc that I was curious about. If you could link to the panel site we would know for sure.

My guess is the 200w are too close to the HF's limits. The original Grape 40A PWM has an input voltage limit of 55v, so it didn't see this problem. The loose connection (if that's what it was) is an error you likely won't repeat again. We all learn by doing and by making errors.
 
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A heat producing battery with a heat producing inverter stacked on it with a heat producing solar charge controller stacked on that in a box with no ventilation in the summer. I am surprised the solar charge controller is the only item you are having trouble with, but it is on top with the heat sink on the bottom.
 
Don’t know about their charge controllers but I sure like my 4 Grape solar panels. I have two connected to a cheap Amazon PWM and the other two connected to a Victron 75-15 Great combo By the way.

did I get my two too to’s correct?
 
Next day at work I get an urgent text from my wife. The controller is beeping again, this time with only one panel connected. I told her to cover the panel with a blanket and see if it stops and it did. I come home from work and my battery is now down to 11.7V despite me charging the battery to 100% with my generator and a 15a charger before bed the previous night. So I disconnected the controller and re-connected my 15a battery charger. Upon inspection I noticed that this controller had melted as well. This time not at the terminal but about midway up the chassis, as if something internal caused the heat.
you fully charged at 15amp on your generator.
So it took 7-12 hours of generator run time?
 
you fully charged at 15amp on your generator.
So it took 7-12 hours of generator run time?
I believe it ran for 6 or 7 hours. Didn't really time it though.
Edit: Actually I just noticed that my charger, which has an "AGM" setting, seems to think my battery is fully charged at 12.1 volts. Why is this? Is the battery toast, or is my charger yet another poor purchase decision?
 
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A heat producing battery with a heat producing inverter stacked on it with a heat producing solar charge controller stacked on that in a box with no ventilation in the summer. I am surprised the solar charge controller is the only item you are having trouble with, but it is on top with the heat sink on the bottom.
I live in northern WI and the box is ventilated. It never seems hotter in there than ambient temperature and the cooling fans don't really run any more often than they did when it was 55-60F outside.
 
As others have correctly pointed out, in parallel the voltages remain the same. However, the 200w panels I am seeing that mention 20.31v anywhere have 20.31Vmp and 24.35Voc. It's Voc that I was curious about. If you could link to the panel site we would know for sure.

My guess is the 200w are too close to the HF's limits. The original Grape 40A PWM has an input voltage limit of 55v, so it didn't see this problem. The loose connection (if that's what it was) is an error you likely won't repeat again. We all learn by doing and by making errors.
Loose connection was my suspicion since I know that can get hot. But like I said in the OP, when I re-checked all the connections they were tight. The system had ran fine for several months before the meltdown.
 
I believe it ran for 6 or 7 hours. Didn't really time it though.
Edit: Actually I just noticed that my charger, which has an "AGM" setting, seems to think my battery is fully charged at 12.1 volts. Why is this? Is the battery toast, or is my charger yet another poor purchase decision?
7 hours x 15 is 105 ah minus losses-15ag so 90 amp hour not even 50%

2nd you need a voltage meter and stop relying on devices to tell you voltage.. and clamp dc amp meter would be helpful also
 
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7 hours x 15 is 105 ah minus losses-15ag so 90 amp hour not even 50%

2nd you need a voltage meter and stop relying on devices to tell you voltage.. and clamp dc amp meter would be helpful also

KAIWEETS HT206D Digital Clamp Meter T-RMS 6000 Counts, Multimeter Voltage Tester Auto-ranging, Measures Current Voltage Temperature Capacitance Resistance Diodes Continuity Duty-Cycle (AC/DC Current) https://a.co/d/dmqDTfH

I use fluke but it's pricey so maybe one of these


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7 hours x 15 is 105 ah minus losses-15ag so 90 amp hour not even 50%

2nd you need a voltage meter and stop relying on devices to tell you voltage.. and clamp dc amp meter would be helpful also
If my battery was at 40%ish before charging wouldn't adding another 90 amps put it closer to 80-90%? I have a Fluke but unfortunately it's in a storage unit 4 hours from me. For now I'm shutting down the fridge and the inverter. I'm going to charge the battery tonight again, then it's gonna have to wait til the new controller arrives. If we have another meltdown I'm fairly sure I'll just scrap the entire idea. Since I'm not an electrician or an enthusiast of any kind I stick to following instructions and user manuals. I thought I was doing it right but apparently not.
 
If it ran fine for 6 months, until now.
What has changed?
If the season is cooler now.
The VOC has increased to above the limit of the SCC.
 
If it ran fine for 6 months, until now.
What has changed?
If the season is cooler now.
The VOC has increased to above the limit of the SCC.
When I set everything up it was in the 45-55°F range. Since then it's been consistently in the 75-85° range with an occasional day around 90°. 6 months might be an overestimation on my part. Probably closer to 4-5 months according to my wife.
 
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