diy solar

diy solar

Putting an end on a big wire.

Disregarding his fishing weight/wheel weight gimmick, just in general I cannot imagine ever relying on solder for a large gauge cable like 4/0. I think for virtually anything with solar I'm sticking to crimped.
 
It's just a personal preference matter. The only goal is to make a good tight connection.
I have done both for just about every situation. I don't have a problem with either way.
My current main battery connection is soldered. And sees up to 300a for 10 hours at a time. I trust it completely.
 
his fishing weight is lead which melts at only like 600 degrees so I guess that's the main thing to worry about, if it gets hot it'll fall out
copper is 14 times more electrically conductive than lead so his ball in the video will be the hottest point too
 
It's just a personal preference matter. The only goal is to make a good tight connection.
I have done both for just about every situation. I don't have a problem with either way.
My current main battery connection is soldered. And sees up to 300a for 10 hours at a time. I trust it completely.
I guess I am biased because of so much pain with cold solder joints on microelectronics that I just kind of hate the stuff nowadays.
 
Worked in electronics for 25 years making pitching machine controls (JUGS). We never used solder for any terminals. I asked why one day as it seemed it would be better to my young brain. Boss went over and soldered a crimped terminal on a power cable and then ran a large load through it from the bench power supply to simulate an overload. Wire got red hot in seconds and solder basically exploded and shot little melted balls of solder all over. Solder has a relatively low melting point...works great when everything else is working great. Other than that, it's a bit like using hot melt glue on things that get very hot.
 
Worked in electronics for 25 years making pitching machine controls (JUGS). We never used solder for any terminals. I asked why one day as it seemed it would be better to my young brain. Boss went over and soldered a crimped terminal on a power cable and then ran a large load through it from the bench power supply to simulate an overload. Wire got red hot in seconds and solder basically exploded and shot little melted balls of solder all over. Solder has a relatively low melting point...works great when everything else is working great. Other than that, it's a bit like using hot melt glue on things that get very hot.
Then again... would it be a "Bad Thing" (TM) to have the connection fail... Say get too hot, melt and fall out of the battery?
 
Does anybody use long barrel lugs in the PV world? For telecom almost everything was long barrel, 2-hole compression lugs with inspection holes to 535 or 750MCM DLO cable. The exception was a few things on a ground loop that were cadweld together.
 
All valid points and the Selterm ones are probably fine.I just like the fact that the Fusion ones are a lot thicker and these 2 connections are all about electrical conductivity ,not mechanical strength.I am an old plumber and I trust my soldering ability, so there's that. I have made quite a few battery cable sets for vehicles and it's not hard at all.
Other than this post and a couple more ,I am not seeing probably the most important component that’s required to soldiering of any kind . Experience ……..
I have soldered and created thousands of gold ,silver and platinum rings ,bracelets and jewelry items ..also worked copper plumbing pipes , …I owned a jewelry store/ repair shop and did all my own work for 2 decades…

There are so many mistakes that one can make in a solider joint and never Know it , it’s scary…

Cold Soilder joints , not fluxing properly , using the wrong flux, using weak or incorrect soider, not properly heating surfaces , not allowing the solder to chase the heat exactly where it needs to go. Over heating- underheating, damaging the insulation , not prepping the surfaces or properly cleaning all the surface , creating hard spots that can fatigue , stress crack and fail…
and much more…
I trained under some extremely seasoned jewelers and “metal working people”..
in most cases you will never know if you did it right , wrong , great or half -assed Untill it fails .
That only comes with experience …

NOTE….I am not a welder…that is a totally different skill .

all I’m saying is that a very good crimper tool and properly prepped / cleaned wires and lugs is a much safer bet for a person using larger wire who is not VERY good at soldering…it is not as easy as it appears..if your good ,then go for it ..if you are not, leave it be.

im sure better people than me electrically can speak upon the extra resistance a poor solider joint creates to mess with your system once finished.

J.
,
 
Does anybody use long barrel lugs in the PV world? For telecom almost everything was long barrel, 2-hole compression lugs with inspection holes to 535 or 750MCM DLO cable. The exception was a few things on a ground loop that were cadweld together.

Non-sequitir but I think it's smart to upsize to the next gauge on big battery cables.

48 Volt also helps. Less amps means less possible issues with connections.
 
Other than this post and a couple more ,I am not seeing probably the most important component that’s required to soldiering of any kind . Experience ……..
I have soldered and created thousands of gold ,silver and platinum rings ,bracelets and jewelry items ..also worked copper plumbing pipes , …I owned a jewelry store/ repair shop and did all my own work for 2 decades…

There are so many mistakes that one can make in a solider joint and never Know it , it’s scary…

Cold Soilder joints , not fluxing properly , using the wrong flux, using weak or incorrect soider, not properly heating surfaces , not allowing the solder to chase the heat exactly where it needs to go. Over heating- underheating, damaging the insulation , not prepping the surfaces or properly cleaning all the surface , creating hard spots that can fatigue , stress crack and fail…
and much more…
I trained under some extremely seasoned jewelers and “metal working people”..
in most cases you will never know if you did it right , wrong , great or half -assed Untill it fails .
That only comes with experience …

NOTE….I am not a welder…that is a totally different skill .

all I’m saying is that a very good crimper tool and properly prepped / cleaned wires and lugs is a much safer bet for a person using larger wire who is not VERY good at soldering…it is not as easy as it appears..if your good ,then go for it ..if you are not, leave it be.

im sure better people than me electrically can speak upon the extra resistance a poor solider joint creates to mess with your system once finished.

J.
,

Best connection is achieved by crimping and then flooding the joint with solder.
 
Just last week I was working in a nationally known manufacturer's plant that was putting together 4 one inch braided-looking copper cables into a large 4-inch connector. The overhead crane held one end of this 10-foot-long cable above the connector as the worker soldered the connector to the cable. He used an oxygen-acetylene torch and a LOT of solder.

I asked him if they ever crimp...Always made them this way.

Maybe this was used for grounding if that matters.

I have soldered many connections over the years but looking at crimpers now.
 
Are the entire circuit boards in inverters and chargers not soldered including the high amp connections?

With thermal management to keep transistor junction under 125C, maybe 150C. Case temperature lower.
The assembly process is designed and tested, with varied parameters, to determine limits that deliver high yield and good reliability.
Statistical process control is used on temperature, solder paste thickness, etc., with adjustments to stay within control limits.
At least for good assembly houses.

When design errors happen, transistors slide off the board.

Crimp terminals, there is visual inspection and pull test.
 
Best connection is achieved by crimping and then flooding the joint with solder.
I totally agree that is a great way to do it . ( in this forum even that will spark vigorous debate) …

again the whole point of my post was about WHO is doing the work and their skill level is more important than what is being done…or how they are doing it…especially with soldering……

A thousand dollar pool player with a ten dollar que stick ,will always win against a ten dollar shooter with a thousand stick.
 
With thermal management to keep transistor junction under 125C, maybe 150C. Case temperature lower.
The assembly process is designed and tested, with varied parameters, to determine limits that deliver high yield and good reliability.
Statistical process control is used on temperature, solder paste thickness, etc., with adjustments to stay within control limits.
At least for good assembly houses.

When design errors happen, transistors slide off the board.

Crimp terminals, there is visual inspection and pull test.

Yes. The solder just adds a second layer of redundancy and connectivity.

The best battery terminal connectors have the lead cast around the end of the wire.

In this day and age, it's more important to make sure your fuses and holders are of high quality and I would also max load the system a few times and retorque all connections.
 
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