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diy solar

Really need some help or advice

WarmachineX0

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Oct 13, 2023
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41
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New Mexico
I've been trying to set up an off grid system for my house. I'm currently on a generator and would really like to get this working but I keep blowing up inverters.

I've got two of the of the BluePower SP6584 (pretty much the same as the MPP Solar 6584). Every time I turn them on, one blows. Not immediately, but shortly after.

The system consists of 10 (currently 9, 1 isn't working) SOK Batteries from Current Connected. 48v 100Ah Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) battery. Two SP6548 with a Lynx Distributor between the two.

I'm pretty much identical to this,
With three exceptions. I've got more batteries. I didn't do the ground neutral bond in the box. And I have a Lynx Distributor instead of bars.

When I turned them on this last time, they seemed to come on fine, then I turn them off after a loud beep because I noticed the communication cables weren't attached. I turned them back on in plans to program them. After the loud beep one made a loud pop and the system turned off.

I did precharge them using the light bulb method. I pre-charged the previous time through the battery’s system. I did not turn the batteries off when I turned the inverters off so charging them again wouldn't be needed.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I did try support but they couldn't figure out what the issue is. I'm now sending off for a replacement again. I'm not sure if I should just give up and do something simpler.
 
I've been trying to set up an off grid system for my house. I'm currently on a generator and would really like to get this working but I keep blowing up inverters.

I've got two of the of the BluePower SP6584 (pretty much the same as the MPP Solar 6584). Every time I turn them on, one blows. Not immediately, but shortly after.

The system consists of 10 (currently 9, 1 isn't working) SOK Batteries from Current Connected. 48v 100Ah Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) battery. Two SP6548 with a Lynx Distributor between the two.

I'm pretty much identical to this,
With three exceptions. I've got more batteries. I didn't do the ground neutral bond in the box. And I have a Lynx Distributor instead of bars.

When I turned them on this last time, they seemed to come on fine, then I turn them off after a loud beep because I noticed the communication cables weren't attached. I turned them back on in plans to program them. After the loud beep one made a loud pop and the system turned off.

I did precharge them using the light bulb method. I pre-charged the previous time through the battery’s system. I did not turn the batteries off when I turned the inverters off so charging them again wouldn't be needed.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I did try support but they couldn't figure out what the issue is. I'm now sending off for a replacement again. I'm not sure if I should just give up and do something simpler.


Do you have any pictures of your installation?
 
Ok, did you try plugging the battery power into them without any of the other cables connected yet (no AC outputs, or PV connections yet)? Only the two sync cables (the DB9 serial paralleling cables), the picture doesn't seem to show the sync cables there (or maybe not yet in the pic)...

Make sure inverter 'on' buttons are switched 'off' (standby/bypass, or out) when doing the precharge ritual... Do you have breakers on your DC inverter run cables? You need them too. Each battery has a breaker, but on other side of bus bar, each inverter wire needs a breaker too (to protect those cable runs).

Plus it provides a good place to shut off, so you can do precharge and then quick-turn-on when your precharge light bulb goes out. No breakers there means full battery stack amperage could roast an inverter cable if an inverter shorted out and over-currented.

Once you get it to work with nothing connected except battery (no pops or smoke), then try looking at adding back the other connections...

Have you configured them (might be Option #28) from SiG to 2P1-0° (master inverter) and 2P2-180° (slave inverter) mode yet for parallel operation? Make sure no AC output connected on 240v until paralleling sync is set up (2P1-0° and 2P2-180°). Fine for SiG mode when no 240v breakers are enabled (only 120v breakers enabled, just when testing only, once paralleling is properly set for proper 2P1-0° and 2P2-180°, then can enable 240v breakers).

Setting for SiG to 2P1-0° and 2P2-180°, can only be set when inverters are off (power buttons out), so either PV input needs to provide power, or a grid input power source needs to be supplied (so the inverters can get power and displays stay on, while inverter switch is turned off, meaning bypass mode), then it will allow you to change those settings. Many settings it allows you to change while inverter is on, but certain settings like this one can only be changed when inverter is in bypass...
 
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I've only tried powering them up as you see them. But, I do have the communication cables connected, they just were not in that picture. On the backside of the load center is a rapid shutdown. Those cables are less then a foot long, and both loads are completely disconnected.

I don't have any inline breakers, just fuses, between the batteries and inverters. Is there one I should be using? As for the connections, only the neutral and ground are connected to the system when it was turned on. And I've yet to program them yet, it's when I'm going to do that they go out on me.

Thank you. I'm planning to do as you say, and start ot up next time completely disconnected from everything. This is my first "big" system, my cabin was simple compared to it.
 
I've only tried powering them up as you see them. But, I do have the communication cables connected, they just were not in that picture. On the backside of the load center is a rapid shutdown. Those cables are less then a foot long, and both loads are completely disconnected.

I don't have any inline breakers, just fuses, between the batteries and inverters. Is there one I should be using? As for the connections, only the neutral and ground are connected to the system when it was turned on. And I've yet to program them yet, it's when I'm going to do that they go out on me.

Thank you. I'm planning to do as you say, and start ot up next time completely disconnected from everything. This is my first "big" system, my cabin was simple compared to it.


Refresh my last post because I made some edits about questions relating to the SiG mode vs 2P1-0° and 2P2-180°

Did you set any the paralleling up, or even get that far?

EDIT:
Oh n/m, I guess you did mention about it in your last post, that you didn't get that far yet...
 
Yeah, and if you do have fuses, they should be one per inverter, not on the both inverter run (is best practice).. You don't want a short on one inverter that could pull battery max amps, and pull unfused charging power through the other inverter enough to still overcurrent the cable run.

I'd add a couple of breakers there so you have a switch for each inverter there too. Of course some people prefer Class-T fuseholders there, but I prefer to have a switch to shut off single inverter at a time if necessary.
 
I've been trying to set up an off grid system for my house. I'm currently on a generator and would really like to get this working but I keep blowing up inverters.

I've got two of the of the BluePower SP6584 (pretty much the same as the MPP Solar 6584). Every time I turn them on, one blows. Not immediately, but shortly after.

The system consists of 10 (currently 9, 1 isn't working) SOK Batteries from Current Connected. 48v 100Ah Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) battery. Two SP6548 with a Lynx Distributor between the two.

I'm pretty much identical to this,
With three exceptions. I've got more batteries. I didn't do the ground neutral bond in the box. And I have a Lynx Distributor instead of bars.

When I turned them on this last time, they seemed to come on fine, then I turn them off after a loud beep because I noticed the communication cables weren't attached. I turned them back on in plans to program them. After the loud beep one made a loud pop and the system turned off.

I did precharge them using the light bulb method. I pre-charged the previous time through the battery’s system. I did not turn the batteries off when I turned the inverters off so charging them again wouldn't be needed.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I did try support but they couldn't figure out what the issue is. I'm now sending off for a replacement again. I'm not sure if I should just give up and do something simpler.
Just a silly question but you said you didn’t do any programming.

If both outputs are connected and they are not set in parallel but think they are 2 separate inverters won’t that cause a problem?

Just my 2 cents.
 
Yeah, and if you do have fuses, they should be one per inverter, not on the both inverter run (is best practice).. You don't want a short on one inverter that could pull battery max amps, and pull unfused charging power through the other inverter enough to still overcurrent the cable run.

I'd add a couple of breakers there so you have a switch for each inverter there too. Of course some people prefer Class-T fuseholders there, but I prefer to have a switch to shut off single inverter at a time if necessary.
The Lynx Distributor has the fuses, 300a from the battery to the bar, and each inverter has 200a to the bar.

Also, do you know if it's possible to repair or have these repaired? I still have the two in the picture. And would love to have a back up if I ever get this working. Thanks.
 
Just a silly question but you said you didn’t do any programming.

If both outputs are connected and they are not set in parallel but think they are 2 separate inverters won’t that cause a problem?

Just my 2 cents.
The loads are not, the common and ground are. I've been told by tech support and the electrician that did my house that it wouldn't make a difference. But after watching a couple videos earlier I'm not so sure. What's your thoughts? Thanks.
 
The loads are not, the common and ground are. I've been told by tech support and the electrician that did my house that it wouldn't make a difference. But after watching a couple videos earlier I'm not so sure. What's your thoughts? Thanks.
Sorry guy that was my best shot. I’m not familiar with this brand..
I wish you luck though!
 
The Lynx Distributor has the fuses, 300a from the battery to the bar, and each inverter has 200a to the bar.

Also, do you know if it's possible to repair or have these repaired? I still have the two in the picture. And would love to have a back up if I ever get this working. Thanks.


Ok my apologies, I can see that now in the picture (I had to zoom in, click on the +), I guess the fuses were staring right at me there. I never saw a Lynx without the cover (well maybe only a time or two in a You Tube videos a long time ago briefly) so I thought that was just a bus bar at first glimpse.

The inverter may be able to be repaired. Most easy would be on board level, meaning once you know which board it needs, manufacturer / vendor may be willing to send a board replacement, and swap it out.

More difficult would be a skilled electronics repair tech, who could find what components on a board level may have been damaged and repair it. In many cases, this requires a board diagram, which can be hard to find, since manufacturer may not be willing to share and release one.


On the part about not having the inverters configured, I would always make sure AC outputs are not connected to anything, until it's configured properly for 2P1-0° and 2P2-180°, and you are actually seeing 120v AC output on both inverter displays (with no error codes), then gracefully add loads to them after that's confirmed.

Based on what you've said, it's hard to root cause the pops, but is peculiar that it happened twice with 2 inverters. That's why I would want to rule out any other connections/factors, and get wiring to the most basic setup before trying to connect and try a 3rd one and risk popping it too.

Popping may indicate the sound of caps blowing, or worse could be a short circuit fried some transistors or diodes or something. The pics show like your polarities are correct on the battery leads. (left is +, while right is -)...

We did see somebody here not long ago, who did have them hooked up backwards, so that's why I had wanted to see the pics earlier, but that looks fine here.
 
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On the part about not having the inverters configured, I would always make sure AC outputs are not connected to anything, until it's configured properly for 2P1-0° and 2P2-180°, and you are actually seeing 120v AC output on both inverter displays (with no error codes), then gracefully add loads to them after that's confirmed.
Thanks again for your help. I got my replacement over the weekend. I isolated them to program them like you said and everything worked fine until I restarted them. The old (not replacement) inverter gives a F09 error in split phase mode. Could this inverter be damaging the other? Wouldn't really answer the question of what happened to the MPP Solar inverters. I'm convinced it may have something to go with the common/neutral running through the house and stuff.

Since I have a valid error code, and recorded my start up I'm getting another replacement.

I've contacted MTT Solar and they have gone over all my photos and diagrams, doesn't seem like they can find anything wrong. They sent me some info on getting replacement parts as well. Thanks.
 
Thanks again for your help. I got my replacement over the weekend. I isolated them to program them like you said and everything worked fine until I restarted them. The old (not replacement) inverter gives a F09 error in split phase mode. Could this inverter be damaging the other? Wouldn't really answer the question of what happened to the MPP Solar inverters. I'm convinced it may have something to go with the common/neutral running through the house and stuff.

Since I have a valid error code, and recorded my start up I'm getting another replacement.

I've contacted MTT Solar and they have gone over all my photos and diagrams, doesn't seem like they can find anything wrong. They sent me some info on getting replacement parts as well. Thanks.

Yeah, the F09 means chips got fried. The inverters theoretically should not have any effect on each other I wouldn't think (but I could be wrong, may depend on what kind of issue or potential wiring problem may exist though)..

One 'best practice', make sure the firmware matches on both of them before putting them into paralleling.

One thing I just thought of though. I may hope this would not be an issue, but make sure the generator AC power going into each inverter input is 120v (split-phase, one leg goes into each inverter), not putting 240v into each inverter.

Also make sure the generator IS in fact split-phase capable, meaning if it has the toggle switch on it for 240v only vs 240/120 at same time, it is set right, or natively provides a true split phase 240v/120v on the output (verify with voltmeter).

Also, you didn't mention if you had any solar coming in the PV inputs yet, if so, make sure the Voc is under 250v.

It's because the F09 is an indication of blown MOSFETs or IGBTs, which is most likely caused by a short circuit, or overvoltage / surge on the AC lines, or overvoltage / surge on the PV runs. Double check all that stuff.

Also double check polarities, like L1 is L1 to Inverter 1, L2 is L2 to Inverter 2, Neutral is Neutral to both inverters, Ground is ground to both inverters, all the way from generator to L1 inverter, and to L2 inverter, and off to loads panel, L1, L2, N, G.
 
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Yeah, the F09 means chips got fried. The inverters theoretically should not have any effect on each other I wouldn't think (but I could be wrong, may depend on what kind of issue or potential wiring problem may exist though)..

One 'best practice', make sure the firmware matches on both of them before putting them into paralleling.

One thing I just thought of though. I may hope this would not be an issue, but make sure the generator AC power going into each inverter input is 120v (split-phase, one leg goes into each inverter), not putting 240v into each inverter.

Also make sure the generator IS in fact split-phase capable, meaning if it has the toggle switch on it for 240v only vs 240/120 at same time, it is set right, or natively provides a true split phase 240v/120v on the output (verify with voltmeter).

Also, you didn't mention if you had any solar coming in the PV inputs yet, if so, make sure the Voc is under 250v.

It's because the F09 is an indication of blown MOSFETs or IGBTs, which is most likely caused by a short circuit, or overvoltage / surge on the AC lines, or overvoltage / surge on the PV runs. Double check all that stuff.

Also double check polarities, like L1 is L1 to Inverter 1, L2 is L2 to Inverter 2, Neutral is Neutral to both inverters, Ground is ground to both inverters, all the way from generator to L1 inverter, and to L2 inverter, and off to loads panel, L1, L2, N, G.

My generator connects to a transfer switch, allowing it to power the house directly, it's 240v 50amps. I plan to have another connection to the inverters later. I'm not sure the generator is the issue as I found out the generator was unplugged during the last incident. What worried me was while the generator is running its directly connected to the inverters neutral and ground.

The panels should be 3kw 144v. But the array isolators are and always have been off, along with the rapid shutdown.
 
My generator connects to a transfer switch, allowing it to power the house directly, it's 240v 50amps. I plan to have another connection to the inverters later. I'm not sure the generator is the issue as I found out the generator was unplugged during the last incident. What worried me was while the generator is running its directly connected to the inverters neutral and ground.

The panels should be 3kw 144v. But the array isolators are and always have been off, along with the rapid shutdown.

I guess the last possibility is maybe you just got 2 out of a common bad batch from the factory?

I think they do make ATSs that break all three wires too (if we thought that could be an issue).
 
I guess the last possibility is maybe you just got 2 out of a common bad batch from the factory?

I think they do make ATSs that break all three wires too (if we thought that could be an issue).
So I both running now, programed for split phase, 2p1 and 2p2 180o. Both have been running for a bit now with no issue.

I started to connect the arrays, and it's connected to 2p1. When I went to connect the arrays to 2p2 it shorted when I plugged in the ground. Flipped the battery breaker. Everything is fine, so I checked the polarity. The PV is hooked to 2p1 with no issue, and the isolators and rapid shutdown is off. I'm wondering if this is my issue.

Ok, so I was told to join the arrays, I have two I was initially going to run sperate one to each inverter. Two lines at 144v at 1.5kw each. Now, they combine into one line and run to my splitter box (pic included), then split to each inverter.

The instructions wasn't clear on two inverters. So am I to plug them both into PV1 on the respective inverters? Or pv1 on 2p1 and pv2 on 2p2, or am I not suppose to split it?

Was this the correct way to do it?
 

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So I both running now, programed for split phase, 2p1 and 2p2 180o. Both have been running for a bit now with no issue.

I started to connect the arrays, and it's connected to 2p1. When I went to connect the arrays to 2p2 it shorted when I plugged in the ground. Flipped the battery breaker. Everything is fine, so I checked the polarity. The PV is hooked to 2p1 with no issue, and the isolators and rapid shutdown is off. I'm wondering if this is my issue.

Ok, so I was told to join the arrays, I have two I was initially going to run sperate one to each inverter. Two lines at 144v at 1.5kw each. Now, they combine into one line and run to my splitter box (pic included), then split to each inverter.

The instructions wasn't clear on two inverters. So am I to plug them both into PV1 on the respective inverters? Or pv1 on 2p1 and pv2 on 2p2, or am I not suppose to split it?

Was this the correct way to do it?
You don't want to split the PV input circuits, you should run each array separately to an PV input on an inverter.
 
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