diy solar

diy solar

RV schematic w/240v subpanel - is this close?

Just to be clear, I was suggesting that topology before I saw that ac/dc distribution panel.
That is some gnarly ac/dc distribution panel! :)
 
Just one more thought, but my camp was a 23ft trailer and I can't imagine where I'd stick 4 batteries in there, where are you planning on sticking yours? If the layout is anything like mine the bed covers the fresh water tank, the hot water tank is under the stove, and the furnace cabinet would only hold 2 maybe if I built a shelf.

If you throw them in a tongue box that's going to add quite a bit of heavy wire run. When calculating the wire size remember that it's measured in round trip, so AIO to batteries to AIO.
For reals—no space! ? I have considered under the bed or over the wheel well where my dinette used to be for the batteries/electric center, but currently planning to repurpose a space next to the bathroom that used to be an outdoor cabinet/indoor closet.

I didn’t plan to completely reno the trailer, but when I found mold & rot I ended up completely gutting everything. So I’m reframing from the metal skin in, reinforcing floors, walls, and ceilings, moving the bathroom wall a bit, upgrading axles, etc. Basically a fresh build, done as inefficiently as possible. But it’ll be awesome when it’s done, I hope!

Sounds like that’s what i need to do with the old battery bank as well. Ditch it and start fresh. I can use the space for my mini split compressor anyway.

If you can’t tell, I’ve been nerding out, learning and trying everything that sounds cool and might give an advantage with soundproofing, insulation, being off-grid, and some luxuries ??‍♀️ It’s an experiment of-sorts! I’ve learned a lot along the way, and by no means is that learning done…
 
So I’m reframing from the metal skin in, reinforcing floors, walls, and ceilings,
So just to noodle the idea, since you're going right to the skin and space is at a premium where every cubic inch and pound matters what about this idea:

Since you NEED the split phase 240v for the Aircon, what about getting rid of the existing 120v breaker panel and just going AIO -> Autotransformer -> All the 120v circuits? That removes the space required for the existing 120v breaker box and still feeds all your 120v appliances.

Just a thought anyways. :) This has been a fun little brain bender.
 
Since you NEED the split phase 240v for the Aircon, what about getting rid of the existing 120v breaker panel and just going AIO -> Autotransformer -> All the 120v circuits? That removes the space required for the existing 120v breaker box and still feeds all your 120v appliances.
I think you guys have convinced me to ditch all of the pre-existing system, except maybe some of the wiring. I'm starting to see that it's no real cost or time savings to keep them, and probably a greater expenditure and hassle. In that case...

1) Would it be more efficient to run it all as split phase 240v, or to portion out what I need for the AC/heat? In other words, would it be more efficient/better in some way to go:
  • AIO --> autotransformer --> split phase 240 and run all the circuits off this, with a double breaker for the 240 stuff
  • AIO --> 120 breaker --> autotransformer --> 240v subpanel
or, since we're changing things anyway and I'd rather do it right the first time:
  • AIO x 2 for 6000w inverter and 120/140 --> run all the circuits with a double breaker for the 240v
--> If I go this route, would it allow future flexibility with solar input, such as different voltage panels from a ground array? Conversely, would it cost more in energy to run the double AIO than the autotransformer and possibly negate any benefits?​

2) Would it be smart to add a 50amp shore power plug in addition to or replacing the 30amp plug?
 
I think you guys have convinced me to ditch all of the pre-existing system, except maybe some of the wiring. I'm starting to see that it's no real cost or time savings to keep them, and probably a greater expenditure and hassle. In that case...

1) Would it be more efficient to run it all as split phase 240v, or to portion out what I need for the AC/heat? In other words, would it be more efficient/better in some way to go:
  • AIO --> autotransformer --> split phase 240 and run all the circuits off this, with a double breaker for the 240 stuff
Do this, less parts to find homes for.

  • AIO --> 120 breaker --> autotransformer --> 240v subpanel
Where are you going to stick the extra breaker panel? Did this wire go to Box-A or Box-B? More hassle than it's worth.

or, since we're changing things anyway and I'd rather do it right the first time:
  • AIO x 2 for 6000w inverter and 120/140 --> run all the circuits with a double breaker for the 240v
--> If I go this route, would it allow future flexibility with solar input, such as different voltage panels from a ground array? Conversely, would it cost more in energy to run the double AIO than the autotransformer and possibly negate any benefits?​
That would be a really bad idea for a few reasons:

1: A 6Kw split phase inverter is just 2x 3Kw inverters strapped together in a single box, so twice the footprint of a single 3Kw unit. Space is at a premium already.

2: Those units are 48v so now instead of buying and finding space for 2x batteries when you want to upgrade, you have to buy and find space for 4 batteries at a time.

3: The 3Kw currently needs about 25% of your planned battery capacity (1200Wh/day) just to function. If you get the 6Kw you'll need 50% of your battery bank just to exist and function.

4: The split phase units require 240v split phase input to run on AC power, so if you only plug in a 30a single phase plug the unit will freak out and you won't be able to run off the shore power. The only way you could would be to do a autotransformer from 30a Plug -> Autotransformer -> AIO, so you're still needing to find space for an autotransformer. What are the odds that 100% of the places you plug into will have a 240v 50a plug available?

5: The split phase units have 2x MPPT controllers which means you now need 2x strings of panels to feed into it.

2) Would it be smart to add a 50amp shore power plug in addition to or replacing the 30amp plug?
Stick with the 30a plug. You can adapt a 50a down to a 30a, but you can't adapt a 30a to a split phase 50a.
 
I'm getting the idea that this RV is going to be mostly connected to shore power when its not be towed.
Is that an accurate statement?
Will you have a generator for backup?

You mentioned 2x 3000 watt inverters.
Am I to understand your ideas for power consumption are being re-evaluated?

Honestly I'm not a big fan of all in ones.
The idle draw is quite high, the n/g bonding is scary, the ac charger is a bodge, etc.
Would you consider a decent quality inverter/charger and a solar charge controller as an alternative?

For a brand new system you might go pure 120/240VAC split phase and not even bother with DC loads at all.

Or you could go with the classic 30 amp@120VAC system with or without dc distribution.

Or you could go with a 50 amp system with or without dc distribution.
The 50 amp systems are not really split phase as the panels are not configured to allow 240VAC loads.
 
The 50 amp systems are not really split phase as the panels are not configured to allow 240VAC loads.
Uhhh... yes it is. That's the difference between the 30a and the 50a is that the 50a NEMA 14-50 is a split phase 50a 240v socket.

How-to-wire-a-50-amp-RV-plug_4.jpeg


Honestly I'm not a big fan of all in ones.
The idle draw is quite high, the n/g bonding is scary, the ac charger is a bodge, etc.
Would you consider a decent quality inverter/charger and a solar charge controller as an alternative?
I'm not either. They are very handy in some ways but with the space limitations involved I'm also thinking it might be better to roll with separate components that can be maneuvered around a bit. Fortunately wire is easy to run.

You mentioned 2x 3000 watt inverters.
Am I to understand your ideas for power consumption are being re-evaluated?
I think that thought came from the need for 240v split phase more than extra capacity.

For a brand new system you might go pure 120/240VAC split phase and not even bother with DC loads at all.
Not a horrible idea, since everything is coming out anyways.
 
Hmmm...

Ok,
Do this, less parts to find homes for.
But isn't that far less efficient, since even my 120v will cost me the 10% efficiency loss of the transformer?
Where are you going to stick the extra breaker panel? Did this wire go to Box-A or Box-B? More hassle than it's worth.
Right next to the main 120v panel... it'll just have a transformer between them. Hardly enough real estate to mention
1: A 6Kw split phase inverter is just 2x 3Kw inverters strapped together in a single box, so twice the footprint of a single 3Kw unit. Space is at a premium already.
2: Those units are 48v so now instead of buying and finding space for 2x batteries when you want to upgrade, you have to buy and find space for 4 batteries at a time.
What I was referring to is actually 2x the Growatt, so it's still 24v, just 2 inverters, and they have a setting to connect them in parallel for 120/240 output
3: The 3Kw currently needs about 25% of your planned battery capacity (1200Wh/day) just to function. If you get the 6Kw you'll need 50% of your battery bank just to exist and function.
I believe each Growatt uses 2a on standby and 20a on regular mode. The way I calculate it, that puts it at 600w for one or 1200 for 2. If I'm looking at a 7-10% loss via transformer, wouldn't that mean it's about the same for 2x AIO vs 1 AIO + 1 transformer?
4: The split phase units require 240v split phase input to run on AC power, so if you only plug in a 30a single phase plug the unit will freak out and you won't be able to run off the shore power. The only way you could would be to do a autotransformer from 30a Plug -> Autotransformer -> AIO, so you're still needing to find space for an autotransformer. What are the odds that 100% of the places you plug into will have a 240v 50a plug available?
With any setup with the Growatt, my understanding is that the AC goes into the AIO and feeds it in preference to or secondarily to the solar power, depending on my settings. Here are the user manual specs, which I am interpreting that it can take 30-60amps in the same form we're talking about 30a/50a shore power... is that not correct?
1648753137449.png
5: The split phase units have 2x MPPT controllers which means you now need 2x strings of panels to feed into it.
This is what I was asking about when I asked whether it would add more options for future ground arrays that may be at different voltages. Again, this would be 2 AIOs linked in parallel split phase. I am not sure exactly how that would work.
Stick with the 30a plug. You can adapt a 50a down to a 30a, but you can't adapt a 30a to a split phase 50a.
This was my thought process PRO-50a plug... why does it make you suggest against a 50a plug?
I'm getting the idea that this RV is going to be mostly connected to shore power when its not be towed.
Is that an accurate statement?
Will you have a generator for backup?
No generator backup. I'd like to be primarily boondocked, but I am buttoning up my backup plan for when I'm on hookups, and I'd like to get my money's worth :)
You mentioned 2x 3000 watt inverters.
Am I to understand your ideas for power consumption are being re-evaluated?
No, like @Rednecktek mentioned, it's just an alternate way to get 240v.
Honestly I'm not a big fan of all in ones.
The idle draw is quite high, the n/g bonding is scary, the ac charger is a bodge, etc.
Would you consider a decent quality inverter/charger and a solar charge controller as an alternative?
I'd consider anything, but the other options I've found seem to either require a lot more large & expensive components and/or not be able to handle the voltage of residential solar panel inputs.
For a brand new system you might go pure 120/240VAC split phase and not even bother with DC loads at all.
I've pondered this... would 120v lights/etc be as efficient as 12v?
 
I've pondered this... would 120v lights/etc be as efficient as 12v?
How efficient are your 12volt lights?
The common off the shelf LED lights I'm using right now are 8.5 watts and 800 lumens.
Is it worth it to have a buck converter which is ~90% efficient with a second mini-grid vs an inverter which is ~85% efficient and a single mini-grid?
 
What I was referring to is actually 2x the Growatt, so it's still 24v, just 2 inverters, and they have a setting to connect them in parallel for 120/240 output
Aaahhh, so other than the power draw issues and where to stick it, yes, you could very well do that.

I believe each Growatt uses 2a on standby and 20a on regular mode. The way I calculate it, that puts it at 600w for one or 1200 for 2. If I'm looking at a 7-10% loss via transformer, wouldn't that mean it's about the same for 2x AIO vs 1 AIO + 1 transformer?
The "Low Power" mode shuts off the AC completely until there is a load of over 50w draw, which means that you could turn on every light in there and still not turn the inverter on. While that's really annoying as it is, it also means that all your appliances will basically be unplugged every time it goes into low power. Your clocks will forever be at 12:00 12:00 12:00. :)

The 2a regular draw is still 2a * 24v = 50w * 24hrs = 1200Wh/day to exist. 2 units will be double that. Your current battery plan is 24v * 200Ah = 4800Wh. 4800Wh / 2400Wh/day = 50% of battery capacity.

With any setup with the Growatt, my understanding is that the AC goes into the AIO and feeds it in preference to or secondarily to the solar power, depending on my settings. Here are the user manual specs, which I am interpreting that it can take 30-60amps in the same form we're talking about 30a/50a shore power... is that not correct?
That's amps of battery, not amps of AC. So, even if you were drawing 60a from the shore power, that's 60a @ 24v which is only 1440w. 1440w of 120v input power is only 12a of draw from your shore power connection.

This is what I was asking about when I asked whether it would add more options for future ground arrays that may be at different voltages. Again, this would be 2 AIOs linked in parallel split phase. I am not sure exactly how that would work.
Something like 1 Growatt connected to the roof panels and another Growatt connected to the ground mount array? You can do that since you're planning on sharing a battery bank anyways. You could just as easily do it with a much cheaper MPPT controller paralleled in with the Growatt.

I guess it really comes down to value. In my mind, with the space limitations and battery capacity draw, the extra 10% efficiency you'll get out of another AIO isn't worth the $700 unless the autotransformer is about the same cost. Then it seems to still not be worth it.

This was my thought process PRO-50a plug... why does it make you suggest against a 50a plug?
You can get a generator from Harbor Freight that will feed a 30a RV plug and even the cheesiest parking slots with hookups will have a 30a socket. Considering even if you were to get 2x AIO's that would only draw about 25a so it's more a matter of functionality. Going with a 50a plug requires more complex wiring to balance your loads across the legs and might not be available. If you wired it in to feed 1 leg to each AIO then if you used a 30a adapter/socket you would only get charging to a single AIO. If you plan on the wiring to be 120v based from the get-go then there's a lot less hassle involved with it all.

As an example, in my camp/camper there is only 1 slot that could take a 240v breaker (thanks @smoothJoey , I missed that!) and each side could take half the load from the original 50a plug that was wired in there. If I were to use a 30-amp adapter it would lose 1 leg of that power and either the right or left half of my panel would get no power.

No generator backup. I'd like to be primarily boondocked, but I am buttoning up my backup plan for when I'm on hookups, and I'd like to get my money's worth :)
Never visit the PNW outside of July-August then. :) You'd never get enough sun. :cry:

I'd consider anything, but the other options I've found seem to either require a lot more large & expensive components and/or not be able to handle the voltage of residential solar panel inputs.
That's a matter of the parts. Sadly, the cost of an AIO does tend to be cheaper by the time you pay for a mid-range MPPT controller of the same amperage AND a pure sine wave inverter AND an AC charger. The advantages of going component though are something to consider thouth, namely:

1: If the MPPT controller dies, you just replace the MPPT controller.
2: It's easier to find space for multiple small boxes sometimes than larger individual units.
3: Future upgrades don't always require throwing all the components in the trash.

As for the residential panels, a lot of them are in the 40-80v range which means most mid-range MPPT controllers can take a 2s or 3s string, and however many strings the amps rating will allow.

I've pondered this... would 120v lights/etc be as efficient as 12v?
As efficient? No. Simpler to source and wire for? Yes.

They do make 24 and 48 volt lighting.
But not readily available in stores.
Those all in ones, don't handle the neutral ground properly when they are paralleled.
That is dangerous.
Soooo many threads about that too, it's kind of a major issue in the AIO's. Sadly, it's not just AIO's that have that problem.

This is all good noodling here. I still think the AIO -> Autotransformer -> 240v breaker box -> All The Things is the more simple and elegant solution. Yes, it's a 10% efficiency loss, but 10% is far less battery and space than a 1200Wh/day inverter.

If you need over 2700w of power it may be time to rethink your living style and maybe, if worst comes to worst, when all else has failed, maybe step down to a MargaritaMaster 2000. :LOL:
 
One thing to do, before you start assembling the interior, is to grab some large graph paper from the local craft store, some scissors, and a ruler. Figure out what your scale is and start cutting out pieces for the AIO's, the batteries, the bed, the table, water tank, etc. and lay them out to see where everything will fit. Then cut some cardboard to size and take it in the trailer and staple/tape it up where you think you might want to put things. Many people, myself included, find it surprising how much physics doesn't like to play nicely some times and getting hit with 2-inch-itis (as we call it) can really screw up a perfectly good plan.
 
Here is a panel that should fit the bill.
Did not know that you could use a main lug only panel is this way.
 
Saw something interesting in another thread, just to throw the noodle out there. More amperage and less efficient, but saves a LOT of space and removes the split-phase from the whole equasion.

https://www.pioneerminisplit.com/pr...t-pump-air-conditioner?variant=39894059122730

Pro's: No roof bump, no outdoor unit on the tongue, no 240v/autotransformer wiring, no second AC panel, same BTU's.

Con's: Less efficient than mini-split, eats up floor space.

Also: I threw up a thread about external plugs for the deployable ground mount.
 
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Whew. Lots to think through. Thank you guys!! @Rednecktek & @smoothJoey

I think I need to sit down and pencil out some alternatives with all this new info. I also think I may wire the trailer and give myself a little more time to nail down the system before deciding on the big items.
 
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