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Shout out to excellent Midnite tech support

OffGridInTheCity

Solar Wizard
Joined
May 23, 2021
Messages
1,833
Location
Southern Oregon
I'm just past 4 years of off-grid solar production and I had a serious issue and the fantastic Midnite support I got that helped me resolve the issue.

I use one of my Midnite Classic 150s AUX1 relay to turn on/off my inverters based on battery voltage. It started cycling every few minutes turning the inverters on/off - which cause all my ATSs to switch back and forth. It's not good for my system.

I went to the control room and all 3 Classics where blaring GND FAULT. So I like a good DIY'er I stuck my head in the sand and rebooted. Howerver, the one would not boot up - it just started to and then cycled over and over. I pulled out a spare and the same thing. I'm going to myself - did I just destroy 2 Midnite Classics?

Fired off a general tech support request and within 60minutes got back this:
---------------------------- email from Midnite ---------------------
From: Ryan [mailto:ryan@midnitesolar.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2022 2:13 PM
To: Information; xxxx
Subject: Re: General Information - MidNite

Xxx,
You have a bad electrical connection some where between the battery and that classic. it is high resistance so when the classic tries to start it drops the voltage and resets
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

So I scratched my head and wondered how the 15ft wire from the Battery buss to the Midnite could possibly cause this. Bypassed the breaker and redid the lugs - no go. I took both Midnite Classics to my office and hooked them to a 48v battery - and they both booted properly!

Then I remembered the original electrician put in a junction box and wa-la. He did butt-joints on 4AWG that carry up to 80a and one of them burned thru. Here's a pic of the junction box from Feb 2020....
1666223608219.png

And here's the butt-join that burned up last week (Oct 2022)
1666223649774.png

Midnite tech support was 100% correct - bad connection between the battery and the Classic!

Connection is fixed and the Midnite Classic 150 is back onlineas good as ever. Also a good example of fire prevention gained by using metal junction boxes! :)

In these days of seemingly poor support, I just wanted to do a shout out to Ryan / Midnite Support!
 
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I have the 3 x Midnite Classic temperature probes in various boxes and one was in the junction box. But after a couple of years I stopped paying attention as they never got above 55C.

I've since added logic to turn the temps red on my dashboard if they go >= 60C. If I'd payed attention I would have been alerted up to 5 days (Oct 7) prior to the failure Oct 12... Oct 11 it reached 81.4C = 178.5F hi - and the probe was 6" away... so it got HOT in that box.
1666224432257.png
 
wait... did he butt joint and shrink-wrap ONLY on loose connectors? mechanical butt joint is good and correct in this case. I've never seen anything like those before as a "loose" install. they should be secured to a plastic bracket.

for 4AWG for anyone referencing this in the future... use DC rated "power distribution blocks" or "terminal blocks".

I don't think DINKLE makes UL listed DC terminal blocks that will work for 4awg/80amp. but they do for 6awg/60amp.
 
This also serves as warning about "Licensed Electricians", especially those who are clueless about real DC Systems.
Hopefully your setup is such that you can eliminate butt joints and run a clean wire from point to point. Even if it involves some minor work, likely a prudent move to "clean up" such messes. It could have gone really badly if the one classic hadn't acted up when it did.
 
great points Steve. I'd also recommend everyone get in the habit of opening up every DC junction box to confirm there's no damaged/overheated/moisture evidence every 6 months. might have been able to see this coming long before ground fault occurred.

I wonder.... is the junction box in an attic?
 
great points Steve. I'd also recommend everyone get in the habit of opening up every DC junction box to confirm there's no damaged/overheated/moisture evidence every 6 months. might have been able to see this coming long before ground fault occurred.

I wonder.... is the junction box in an attic?
The junction box shown above is under the house - tucked up in the insulation under the floor. Based on my experience, I agree 100% with comments to 1) check and 2) get rid of butt-joint connections. I'm in year 4 of operations - and a learning point for me is that it's not just a mater of checking when you 1st wire things - but perhaps a yearly check? or every other year? Definitely a multi-year health check.

I do have the temp probe in the box and updated my software to do 'in my face' alerts if it goes >60C - so I won't just glaze over the numbers. And because of this event - I'm now 100% in favor of *metal boxes* for connections rather than exposed connections. It not only protects against shock but in my case - might have protected against fire under the floor.
 
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100% could not agree more. i ALWAYS use a grounded metal box unless outdoors/marine/water-tight.
 
That butt joint connector looks like it was mild steel? The screws appear corroded/rusted in the pic supplied. If I was using a butt joint there I would have used a copper connector, hydraulically crimped it and shrink wrapped it.
 
That butt joint connector looks like it was mild steel? The screws appear corroded/rusted in the pic supplied. If I was using a butt joint there I would have used a copper connector, hydraulically crimped it and shrink wrapped it.
Yea.. I repaired it by crimping on copper lugs / bolting them together + wrapped heavily electrical tape :)
1670354827745.png
 
C'mon. Just wire nut it. Live on the edge!


**Do not do this. If you don't know why this is a joke, please hire an electrician for every project you have.
 
Yea.. I repaired it by crimping on copper lugs / bolting them together + wrapped heavily electrical tape :)
View attachment 123394

eh....... well... so.... honestly, i'm just not a fan of not having the terminal connections firmly secured to something. floating connections is ALWAYS going to present a potential for problems, IMO.

I would highly recommend something like this, instead. UL listed for 180amps.
MNSBBR_Lg.jpg
 
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