Very new to solar but started purchasing items, not sure of the final specs of the whole system.

[kromc5]

First order was from Signature Solar:

1. 36x ZNShine 390W 72 Cell Bifacial Mono
2. 1x Off-Grid 48V DC 12kW Inverter 120V/240V 120A/150V MPPT with Wifi
Monitoring
3. 1x Growatt 12 KW Off-Grid Inverter Spare Boards

Found the we were using around 50kwh per night and that has to be corrected, I'm installing a mini split, and rheem hybrid water heater.
I’m excited to install the rheem as I can vent this into the tv room to keep it cool.

Like to start out with 50kwh storage either signatures batteries or possibly 4 16s 280ah batteries. Ideally would like to double this later. I'm hoping to get decent reduction in consumption so I can purchase pre-made.

Still trying to find an in expensive mounting option preferably pole mounted.

Not much to show yet but removed trees that were casting shadows on 1/2 the back yard.

We work from home and due to our job that consists of taking care of the ID population we are now using a lot of electricity.

Will update the thread as we go and I'm sure that I will have many questions for other parts of the forums.

 

[snoobler]

Good luck!

 

[Hedges]

Found the we were using around 50kwh per night and that has to be corrected ...

Like to start out with 50kwh storage ...

Simplest way to "correct" that would be to set up a photocell that cuts power to all loads when the sun goes down.
What do you actually care about operating at night?
If nothing, then not much need for batteries. I have 14 kWh (usable) storage, AGM batteries which cost $5000. Using similar for 50 kWh would cost you $15,000 although there are alternatives. I could get by with 3.5 kWh (usable) but I haven't disabled all my refrigerators/freezers at night. (Ice is cheap, lead or lithium is expensive.)
In contrast, the 14 kW of PV cost something between $3500 and $28,000 (typical range of PV), likely $7000 from a quick search.
PV is cheap and long lasting. Batteries are expensive and problematic.

I suggest a battery just big enough to run minimal loads at night. It will also kick over motors to start them.
Try to run everything (almost) directly off PV.
Configure some state-of-charge indication to enable other loads (e.g. water heater, which appears to be heat-pump?) so it kicks in when there is surplus power available.

 

[kromc5]

Good luck!

Thank you for the information.

 

[kromc5]

Simplest way to "correct" that would be to set up a photocell that cuts power to all loads when the sun goes down.
What do you actually care about operating at night?
If nothing, then not much need for batteries. I have 14 kWh (usable) storage, AGM batteries which cost $5000. Using similar for 50 kWh would cost you $15,000 although there are alternatives. I could get by with 3.5 kWh (usable) but I haven't disabled all my refrigerators/freezers at night. (Ice is cheap, lead or lithium is expensive.)
In contrast, the 14 kW of PV cost something between $3500 and $28,000 (typical range of PV), likely $7000 from a quick search.
PV is cheap and long lasting. Batteries are expensive and problematic.

I suggest a battery just big enough to run minimal loads at night. It will also kick over motors to start them.
Try to run everything (almost) directly off PV.
Configure some state-of-charge indication to enable other loads (e.g. water heater, which appears to be heat-pump?) so it kicks in when there is surplus power available.


Simplest way to "correct" that would be to set up a photocell that cuts power to all loads when the sun goes down.
What do you actually care about operating at night?
If nothing, then not much need for batteries. I have 14 kWh (usable) storage, AGM batteries which cost $5000. Using similar for 50 kWh would cost you $15,000 although there are alternatives. I could get by with 3.5 kWh (usable) but I haven't disabled all my refrigerators/freezers at night. (Ice is cheap, lead or lithium is expensive.)
In contrast, the 14 kW of PV cost something between $3500 and $28,000 (typical range of PV), likely $7000 from a quick search.
PV is cheap and long lasting. Batteries are expensive and problematic.

I suggest a battery just big enough to run minimal loads at night. It will also kick over motors to start them.
Try to run everything (almost) directly off PV.
Configure some state-of-charge indication to enable other loads (e.g. water heater, which appears to be heat-pump?) so it kicks in when there is surplus power available.

Hello Thank you for the information,

We were thinking for the clients upstairs to run two 1500w space heaters during the winter and one 1500w for us downstairs. I still suspect the heat will be coming on in the colder months so I need to see what's total kwh is also.

I bought a watt meter and will be checking the two fridges and both freezes. For summer I was going to keep the ac upstairs at 79f which they like, and install the mini split downstairs for myself. I was worried that if I undersized the battery we could run into issues and was and thinking of diy 64 280ah (4) 16s and maybe ever 128 batteries in 16s.

 

[Supervstech]

First order was from Signature Solar:

1. 36x ZNShine 390W 72 Cell Bifacial Mono
2. 1x Off-Grid 48V DC 12kW Inverter 120V/240V 120A/150V MPPT with Wifi
Monitoring
3. 1x Growatt 12 KW Off-Grid Inverter Spare Boards

Found the we were using around 50kwh per night and that has to be corrected, I'm installing a mini split, and rheem hybrid water heater.
I’m excited to install the rheem as I can vent this into the tv room to keep it cool.

Like to start out with 50kwh storage either signatures batteries or possibly 4 16s 280ah batteries. Ideally would like to double this later. I'm hoping to get decent reduction in consumption so I can purchase pre-made.

Still trying to find an in expensive mounting option preferably pole mounted.

Not much to show yet but removed trees that were casting shadows on 1/2 the back yard.

We work from home and due to our job that consists of taking care of the ID population we are now using a lot of electricity.

Will update the thread as we go and I'm sure that I will have many questions for other parts of the forums.

I’m dealing with trees in my yard as well... sooooooo many trees.
as soon as the city gets off my ass about the state of my yard, I’m going to mount 1.5KW of panels on the garage, to replace the 100watts up there now... I gotta trim some oak, mimosa, walnut and tulip poplar as well...

let’s see what you are planning!

 

[kromc5]

I’m dealing with trees in my yard as well... sooooooo many trees.
as soon as the city gets off my ass about the state of my yard, I’m going to mount 1.5KW of panels on the garage, to replace the 100watts up there now... I gotta trim some oak, mimosa, walnut and tulip poplar as well...

let’s see what you are planning!

I cut and moved another 8 trees yesterday, suprising how a few trees can really project shade when your actually paying attention. I'm also still surprised by the mounting costs with the pole kits. I have yet to find and affordable 9 panel system but since they are bifacial I really want to maximize them by getting them fairly high.

 

[Hedges]

Hello Thank you for the information,

We were thinking for the clients upstairs to run two 1500w space heaters during the winter and one 1500w for us downstairs. I still suspect the heat will be coming on in the colder months so I need to see what's total kwh is also.

I bought a watt meter and will be checking the two fridges and both freezes. For summer I was going to keep the ac upstairs at 79f which they like, and install the mini split downstairs for myself. I was worried that if I undersized the battery we could run into issues and was and thinking of diy 64 280ah (4) 16s and maybe ever 128 batteries in 16s.

H2O costs less than Pb or Li. See what size water tank would store the heat you need overnight. Or multiple days, since need for heat often coincides with lack of sun. phase-change materials would be nice, but the options for domestic heat aren't as convenient as for domestic cooling.

Do you have an earth-temperature sink available for a heat-pump?
Some people have used low grade heat from panels to heat a pool, and heatpump from that for the house. Not sure how cost effective that is.

My full size 1990's side-by-side fridge was drawing about 200W average, 5 kWh/day. I've converted it to all freezer.

My PV setup is similar in size to what you're doing, a little bit larger (for now, plan to swap 12% efficient panels out and replace with 18% efficient for more power in same area.)
Battery inverter is twice yours.
Battery bank is 1/3 of yours. At full load, inverters would drain it in 20 minutes. It is just enough to keep my nominal loads running all night.
During the day time, in the event of a power failure, I keep batteries full and curtail PV production to match consumption. PV costs much less than batteries.
Eventually I'll route a signal to shed loads such as dryer, air conditioner, water heater at 10% depth of discharge. That will let the battery be kept full, enabling those loads automatically when there is excess PV or when the grid is up.

 

[kromc5]

H2O costs less than Pb or Li. See what size water tank would store the heat you need overnight. Or multiple days, since need for heat often coincides with lack of sun. phase-change materials would be nice, but the options for domestic heat aren't as convenient as for domestic cooling.

Do you have an earth-temperature sink available for a heat-pump?
Some people have used low grade heat from panels to heat a pool, and heatpump from that for the house. Not sure how cost effective that is.

My full size 1990's side-by-side fridge was drawing about 200W average, 5 kWh/day. I've converted it to all freezer.

My PV setup is similar in size to what you're doing, a little bit larger (for now, plan to swap 12% efficient panels out and replace with 18% efficient for more power in same area.)
Battery inverter is twice yours.
Battery bank is 1/3 of yours. At full load, inverters would drain it in 20 minutes. It is just enough to keep my nominal loads running all night.
During the day time, in the event of a power failure, I keep batteries full and curtail PV production to match consumption. PV costs much less than batteries.
Eventually I'll route a signal to shed loads such as dryer, air conditioner, water heater at 10% depth of discharge. That will let the battery be kept full, enabling those loads automatically when there is excess PV or when the grid is up.

Our working environment is 100% from home taking care of ID individuals that do not understand certain basics like water or electricity usage which adds up.

Do you have an earth-temperature sink available for a heat-pump?
When I was on mrcool's website I saw a heating/ac system that use long lines that can be buried, if that is what your referring to we have plenty of room for that. The systems cost was 11k on the website, installation of the ground loops would be very easy for me. But some sites claim at most 30% savings while others stated up to 80%.

I almost went with solark hybrid to have both on grid off grid but the price was something I could not justify. As I can easily add another 12kw invertner and another 36panels for not much more than solark inverter and run it to the second 200 amp box.

We do on average two loads of laundry each day and told my wife we would switch from late night to mid day for that.

 

[road glide]

Trees, yes Trees and more Trees...only the deceased though...

 

[kromc5]

Trees, yes Trees and more Trees...only the deceased though...

Based on this evening I only have about two more to remove and the neighbor's house is roughly 100 yards up on the hill and blocks the direct sun after 7:00 I'm hoping he's open to moving it over about 60 ft.

Top balance charger arrived and waiting for my CC to be unblocked for batteries.

 

[kromc5]

Inverter and panels arrived from Signature solar, no damage but wow the inverter is close to 200lbs. I will have to make something in order lift this into position.

 

[Hedges]

Inverter and panels arrived from Signature solar, no damage but wow the inverter is close to 200lbs. I will have to make something in order lift this into position.

That's a bit heavy even for 2 people.
The bigger SMA inverters are 150 pounds. Slip a 3/4" pipe through the top for a 2-man lift. But I do everything solo.
Unloading a 2-high stack from pallet on truck, I tilted them down onto dolly and used ramps.
I used an engine hoist and strap to lift them onto the wall (straps through the deck to inverters below. Block & tackle should work for most sites.

 

[kromc5]

That's a bit heavy even for 2 people.
The bigger SMA inverters are 150 pounds. Slip a 3/4" pipe through the top for a 2-man lift. But I do everything solo.
Unloading a 2-high stack from pallet on truck, I tilted them down onto dolly and used ramps.
I used an engine hoist and strap to lift them onto the wall (straps through the deck to inverters below. Block & tackle should work for most sites.

I was thinking of overly building some type of block support on the joists and lifting that way.

 

[kromc5]

Had to dig at an off angle due to lines running down the side of the house but just comes out about 190 degrees.

 

[Hedges]

Threaded "T" instead of clamp. I've thought of doing that.
Do you assemble one at a time then pour concrete for the post just threaded in?

Looks like concrete footing stops underground. Pipe will rust more quickly the first few inches underground (but still last quite a while.) Ideal is to make dome of concrete above ground. (For expediency, some of mine are just pounded into the earth.)

I saw a gas pipe (therefore not galvanized) looking badly corroded and puffed up under those circumstances after 20 ~ 30 years. I replaced it, cut in half to examine. Despite the puffed up area of rust, the good steel was almost full thickness.

 

[kromc5]

Threaded "T" instead of clamp. I've thought of doing that.
Do you assemble one at a time then pour concrete for the post just threaded in?

Looks like concrete footing stops underground. Pipe will rust more quickly the first few inches underground (but still last quite a while.) Ideal is to make dome of concrete above ground. (For expediency, some of mine are just pounded into the earth.)

I saw a gas pipe (therefore not galvanized) looking badly corroded and puffed up under those circumstances after 20 ~ 30 years. I replaced it, cut in half to examine. Despite the puffed up area of rust, the good steel was almost full thickness.

Hello Hedges,

They are all the way up and domeg with concrete, I was taking a break for a second. Using the 8 inch post hole auger was extremely tiring much more than I imagine. I will take new pictures tomorrow upload.

 

[kromc5]

As the height increased I double to poles just for wind load, not sure if really required but would rather be over built.

 

[Hedges]

Pipes bend under torsional load, but are incredibly strong for compression/tension.

Note the diagonal elements in the ULA design, forming triangles:

https://www.unirac.com/wp-content/uploads/Gill-Case.jpg

Your pipes would be thick wall. Rigid conduit may be superior to water pipe.
I used a fence as the tall side of one support. That is thinner wall. I used a funnel to pour concrete with pea gravel inside and rodded it.

 

[kromc5]

Pipes bend under torsional load, but are incredibly strong for compression/tension.

Note the diagonal elements in the ULA design, forming triangles:

https://www.unirac.com/wp-content/uploads/Gill-Case.jpg

Your pipes would be thick wall. Rigid conduit may be superior to water pipe.
I used a fence as the tall side of one support. That is thinner wall. I used a funnel to pour concrete with pea gravel inside and rodded it.

That would add a lot of strength, but I have hit a problem. Laid everything out on paper but run into an issue where the struts are not coming out even, measured from each ubolt and they are both the same length. Could be the pipe etc. the struts are square and even width the whole way up/down. I'm at a loss on how to correct at the moment. May have scrap it and go with a similar design as yours but I would need to do above ground concrete pads.