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Which AWG Wire?

guidecca

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What AWG wire is recommended from (16) EVE 2.3v 280Ah LFP battery bank wired in parallel to Samlex 24v inverter/charger?
 
Depends on wire temperature rating and the BMS’s specs
BMS is 8S 100A Overkill. I've got some 1/0 awg left over from my last small build. And I've got some 3/0 awg that's new. Have not seen any recommendations except what comes with most BMS's. Just trying to get some free advice.
 
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BMS is 24v 100A Overkill. I've got some 1/0 awg left over from my last small build. And I've got some 3/0 awg that's new.
So you need a 125A Class T on the battery and your 1/0 will work fine although it will be ‘big’ (non-issue)
 
I'm going with 3/0 awg after talking to Troy at Overkill. Now, to cut 3/0 awg wire and try to get 10' pos and neg wires to stretch to bus bars and inverter. Why is wire so expensive? The up side of using solar panels to power a mini split is the recent heat wave and the fragile power grid.
 
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What is the inverter wattage and charging amps?
BMS is 8S 100A Overkill. I've got some 1/0 awg left over from my last small build. And I've got some 3/0 awg that's new. Have not seen any recommendations except what comes with most BMS's. Just trying to get some free advice.

For a 100A delivery is what I understood.
So you need a 125A Class T on the battery and your 1/0 will work fine although it will be ‘big’ (non-issue)
 
I would only add to what you said if the inverter is bigger than 4000 watts thevinverter could pull more than 100 amps, and if so, than could be a good idea to plan thicker wire for an additional battery pack.
Yup. But his bms will shut him off like an Irish pub keeper shuts off the guy who’d caught his wife with his best friend.
 
What is the inverter wattage and charging amps?
My inverter is the Samlex EVO 2224.

Input: 24 VDC
Output: 120 VAC
Watts: 2200 Watts
Surge: 6600 Watts
Outlets: Hardwired
Fuse: External
 

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  • Samlex-EVO-Features-Spec-Sheet-1121.pdf
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I think you're right and 1/0 awg from the old build would be enough. Thank you for the chart.
Just fuse or breaker it for the load.

Basically when I oversize cables I fuse at the load plus 10- or 15% which ignoring surge 50A is a convenient ’round number’ in your circumstances (you might want to evaluate how often, if ever, or how deep you can utilize that 6600W surge; Class T fuses are 2-to-5 pizzas in cost.)

The idea is that if you overcable something and “fuse to protect the wire” you potentially could have a fire-causing short at so far below the output capacity of (an inverter in this case) that the over-current device never trips in a bad unforeseen event.
Like one 12VDC LED light I had that wonked; I’ve seen others fail from corrosion or whatever but this one somehow arced inside and was faintly buzzing. Fed w/ 16ga, 10A atc. The fuse never blew but instead the ridiculously small (24ga? 28ga?) the china factory made them with eventuality failed and became the fuse. I think I went 1A when I replaced the LED light.

You just don’t want a 200A fuse on a 50A ‘thing’
 
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