diy solar

diy solar

Problems with Eg4 6500ex buyer beware.

BenFromSignatureSolar

Our head of R&D is in Taiwan right now trying to find a solution to the flickering issue.

So post #47 of this thread is not true according to the thread above?
When we got the units back and in the test bench we saw that he did not have the most recent fw on the units and the newest update had been fixing this issue in testing.

Not to mention, I don't see why SS shouldn't want to update the firmware on any units they sell prior to shipment.

When I bought my MPP Solar LV6548s factory direct from them in Taiwan, they took a week they said to unbox and bench test them, update firmware, prior to shipping the units out (on both orders I had made).

If I was a vendor, I would upgrade all firmware before shipping the products, so they were on latest version, and bench test them. It's kind of like the last mile inspection before going into service.

It's like, if you know firmware fixes many problems and bugs, then why would you ever want to send them out the door with old firmware on them, it's like a support ticket waiting to happen. A lot of people out there, may not know about firmware and doing upgrades, and it isn't likely the first step that most consumers try in troubleshooting on their own.
 
I happen to be an electrical engineer with thirty years of experience in power equipment and I have read your policy which says that Signature Solar will honor the warranty if the equipment was installed by a licensed electrician. I wonder how many DIYs here are licensed electricians or used one.
also , most electricians have no idea how these work or how to install them
 
Yes. I have tried to it in the past, but it wasn't intuitive as to how it worked. I am now really trying to figure out exactly how it works as I have my system configured (Batteries in EG4/USE and running comms cable to inverter).

If I can use it to switch between SBU and SUB modes I can modify how it runs to avoid system upsets while running in SUB mode with batteries fully charged when the sun comes up (also while trying to maintain the batteries at a high SOC in anticipation of utility power outages).

Last night I set it to switch from SBU to SUB at 90% at 8:00 PM and at 2:00 AM, then back to SBU at 5% higher (95%). After seeing it go through first the cycle successfully three times starting just before 8:00 PM (I am still not clear on exactly what the time has to do with this), I deactivated the program and changed it to switch from SBU to SUB at 80% at 2:00 AM, and again to switch back to SBU at 5% higher (85%).

I ran one 1500W space heater, on at all times, to make the load part of the test predictable.

This morning I saw that it had gone from SBU to SUB 4 times overnight, with the last cycle being caught in the SUB mode when the sun came up and batteries being charged at 60A on the way from 80% to 85% SOC. The batteries were at 84% at the time of the switch from SUB to SBU at the first hint of power coming from PV and nothing bad happened.

The PV output was intermittent for about 30-minutes, and the system cycled between SBU and SUB one more time. I let the SOC reach 85% and watched the switch back to SBU as the sun came up and the SOC decreased back to 84% while running on batteries with low PV. At that point, SBU used Utility power to maintain the SOC at 84% with Setting 16 set to SNU.

When the sun came up and PV output exceeded the loads, Grid power went to 0W, Solar covered the load and started charging the battery. At 8:50 AM, solar is covering everything and batteries are at 88% SOC on the way to 100%.

The benefit to me to make this work as a workaround to running in SUB mode all the tike, is that I can manage the whole process remotely with Solar Assistant.
Not sure if this article helps explain the time usage or not.
 
Not to mention, I don't see why SS shouldn't want to update the firmware on any units they sell prior to shipment.

When I bought my MPP Solar LV6548s factory direct from them in Taiwan, they took a week they said to unbox and bench test them, update firmware, prior to shipping the units out (on both orders I had made).

If I was a vendor, I would upgrade all firmware before shipping the products, so they were on latest version, and bench test them. It's kind of like the last mile inspection before going into service.

It's like, if you know firmware fixes many problems and bugs, then why would you ever want to send them out the door with old firmware on them, it's like a support ticket waiting to happen. A lot of people out there, may not know about firmware and doing upgrades, and it isn't likely the first step that most consumers try in troubleshooting on their own.

Some vendor contracts void warranty if the box is opened before shipping to the final use party. This is because the vendor would then not know which party was responsible for the failure.

I'll give a real world example of this. Yaskawa motion control.
 
Not sure if this article helps explain the time usage or not.
Thanks. I had not seen that article, but it covers the way I have the inverters set to test tonight. Last night's "High SOC Battery Backup" tests ran without problems with battery SOC never getting below 79% (3-solid lights on the LifePower4 batteries).

What's still a little confusing is that the switching doesn't seem to happen exactly at the times specified when two different SOC targets and different times are specified. It seems they can switch several minutes (or even several hours) before or after the specified times.

For example, while I was testing a "High SOC UPS Backup" scenario (maintaining batteries at 80% to 95%) last night with the SOC target set to 80% at 6:00 AM, the SOC actually dropped to 79% and the inverters switched from SBU to SUB at 1:50AM - 4-hours and 10-minutes before the time I had selected.

I had it set to switch back to SBU at 5% over, and it repeated that 3 times without any problems (again, I will note that I have never really had sny problems EXCEPT when there is solar input coming online while batteries are already at a high SOC).

Having it set to 6:00 AM and having the switch actually occur at 1:50 AM, while it accomplished what I wanted to do, is still confusing to me when I look at how best to pick desired SOC targets and times depending on whether I want to maximize electricity production or set up for maximum battery backup due to approaching bad weather.
 
Unfortunately I have my SA set like @Texican.

In looking at that article though, it seems they have a decline SOC slope down to the time you have programmed (from the previous time you have set). At any point in time if your SOC drops below the red line on the chart, it switches over to SUB mode. So the time you set is kinda the "hard limit" where you want to have a specific SOC at that time, but if it drops below the configured floor before that time, it will make the switch for you.

In my case, I have it set to a 30% floor all the time. If at any point in time if it drops below 30%, I want it to switch to SUB. The 30% value would give me a cushion of power in the event there's a power outage.
 
Not to mention, I don't see why SS shouldn't want to update the firmware on any units they sell prior to shipment.

When I bought my MPP Solar LV6548s factory direct from them in Taiwan, they took a week they said to unbox and bench test them, update firmware, prior to shipping the units out (on both orders I had made).

If I was a vendor, I would upgrade all firmware before shipping the products, so they were on latest version, and bench test them. It's kind of like the last mile inspection before going into service.

It's like, if you know firmware fixes many problems and bugs, then why would you ever want to send them out the door with old firmware on them, it's like a support ticket waiting to happen. A lot of people out there, may not know about firmware and doing upgrades, and it isn't likely the first step that most consumers try in troubleshooting on their own.
All of the units we ship are now flashed with latest before they get sent out
Some vendor contracts void warranty if the box is opened before shipping to the final use party. This is because the vendor would then not know which party was responsible for the failure.

I'll give a real world example of this. Yaskawa motion control.
 
In looking at that article though, it seems they have a decline SOC slope down to the time you have programmed (from the previous time you have set). At any point in time if your SOC drops below the red line on the chart, it switches over to SUB mode. So the time you set is kinda the "hard limit" where you want to have a specific SOC at that time, but if it drops below the configured floor before that time, it will make the switch for you.
Yes, it does look like if it drops below the line, either before or after the time that is set in the program, it switches. I am curious as to whether it actually falls on a slope or if the switch really occurs at the SOC setting in Setting 12. I am going to test to be sure how that works and I may have that answer tonight or in the next few days.

I am testing a middle-of-the-road scenario tonight with first and second SOC targets set at middle of the range (the way I might want to run it when I know PV output for the next day is going to be limited). Tomorrow night will be with Low SOC target settings.
 
I wasn't aware that these units had a setting to switch between SBU and SUB mode automatically. This is a nice feature. My Growatt only switches between SUB and bypass, based on SOC. I can switch between SUB and SBU with an external relay on the AC input, controlled by the dry contacts. But having it built in to the settings would be handy.
 
I wasn't aware that these units had a setting to switch between SBU and SUB mode automatically. This is a nice feature. My Growatt only switches between SUB and bypass, based on SOC. I can switch between SUB and SBU with an external relay on the AC input, controlled by the dry contacts. But having it built in to the settings would be handy.
Yeah if you have coms set up, it can be done based on SOC, otherwise you can set voltages to switch between.
 
Yeah if you have coms set up, it can be done based on SOC, otherwise you can set voltages to switch between.
That's the same
With communications is battery %
Without communications is battery v
But SUB is a manual selection on mine.
 
First time posting here. But I’ve definitely gained a lot of knowledge from everyone. I’ve been using a pair of LV6548’s in split phase for 10 months without issue. They are solid units. We are essentially off grid at this point and just use grid as a backup during extended cloudy or rainy weather. I removed my bonding screws on the units after some discussion with Ian at Watts247. I’m pushing the limits of my VOC in the winter so I decided to purchase a pair eg46500’s. They have double the VOC and what looked like some other decent upgrades. I loved having the larger wire terminals for the ac input and output. And the pv connections were also a good upgrade.

The actual inverters performance was disappointing at best. My lights on dimmers were strobing none stop. Some of the LED lights had a shimmer. I checked all my settings and they were the same as the LV’s. It also didn’t seem to matter whether the inverters were under load or not. Seemed to be a problem with inconsistent voltage or a sine wave issue.

I called signature solar tech support, and they informed me that that was “normal” for these inverters. So I explained I have a pair of Lv’s without a problem that I just removed. They informed me that if the lights bother me, to just remove the dimmer switches. In other words, mask the actual problem. Which is something more serious. Eventually, whatever is going on with them will fry sensitive electronics. The only difference I knew of is the bonding screw I removed in the LV’s. So although I wouldn’t think that would be the problem, I asked if I could remove the screws in the EG4’s. They agreed. There isn’t a bonding screw in the new units btw. I sent them a photo of the empty slot, and they seemed genuinely surprised. Which is a bit scary to me that they didn’t know what is inside their own products.

I asked for a return label since i wouldn’t be using the units. They transferred my case to tier 2 tech support. And there I sat, in limbo. I waited around 3 weeks and realized they never actually intended to do whatever it is that tech support was supposed to do. I didn’t need support. I had already removed the units. They didn’t respond to emails. And I could no longer reach them on the phone. So I asked customer service to check into my case. They said to wait for the “process”. Anyway, the process never happened. I eventually returned the inverters on my own dime. They charged a 40% restocking fee. I called again to see if tech support could finish the “process” now and give me an actual refund. The location of the inverters didn’t really matter either way. They had been off the wall nearly a month. But because I interrupted the “process” they wouldn’t consider it.

Signature solar is knowingly selling equipment that has issues. Tier 1 tech support considers it “normal”. But someone up the chain must know it’s a real problem. Since then, I’ve talked with others that have put a scope on them, and apparently it isn’t a pure sine wave they are generating. I haven’t seen the video of the scope yet. But I definitely wouldn’t be surprised. If there is a problem, don’t advise people to remove the symptom. I left a 1-star review on their website describing the experience with the inverters, and it was removed. Anyway, in summary, avoid signature solar. Customer services and sales are the only extensions that actually answer the phone. They sell equipment with known problems. And just generally don’t seem to care at all. I’ve never dealt with anywhere quite like it. Typically, a place with that poor of service would probably go out of business. But with the solar industry booming, they seem to be thriving.
I have been having similar issues with two EG4 6500EX. You are right on only getting customer service, and or sales. I have sent in countless emails, and never get a response. I am told to speak with a tech Named Dxxxxick but I never get a call. I did provide feedback and got a call from James Showalter I guess the CEO, and he was helpful, but ultimately I should not have to go to CEO to get help. There is a lot of room for improvement on their EG4 website, manuals etc. Many mistakes in the manuals. I have two units in split phase, and my LED lights flicker. I bought them last year and have not removed my bonding screw. I will also say all the UPS's in my home have a persistent relay click as though there is under / over voltage. Basically I am not getting a clean sinusoidal wave and they are trying to protect me from the EG4 6500EX. Also it has been a nightmare getting the phone app to read them. Batteries V2 LL never read the right percentage. My inverters are stuck on SmartESS and I cannot get them on Watch Power. I was told they would delete from the system, but again I am in no response email limbo. However, after muddling through my firmware updates, I was finally able to get the battery percentage on Smart ESS to match the what the LL battery displays show. I agree, they release these products without testing, and I have spent way to much time, trial and error to get things to work. I feel I know more than some of their technicians. I spent 60K on hardware, and put a halt to all my purchases until they resolve some of my issues. Great price, but support and hassle may not be worth it.
 
First time posting here. But I’ve definitely gained a lot of knowledge from everyone. I’ve been using a pair of LV6548’s in split phase for 10 months without issue. They are solid units. We are essentially off grid at this point and just use grid as a backup during extended cloudy or rainy weather. I removed my bonding screws on the units after some discussion with Ian at Watts247. I’m pushing the limits of my VOC in the winter so I decided to purchase a pair eg46500’s. They have double the VOC and what looked like some other decent upgrades. I loved having the larger wire terminals for the ac input and output. And the pv connections were also a good upgrade.

The actual inverters performance was disappointing at best. My lights on dimmers were strobing none stop. Some of the LED lights had a shimmer. I checked all my settings and they were the same as the LV’s. It also didn’t seem to matter whether the inverters were under load or not. Seemed to be a problem with inconsistent voltage or a sine wave issue.

I called signature solar tech support, and they informed me that that was “normal” for these inverters. So I explained I have a pair of Lv’s without a problem that I just removed. They informed me that if the lights bother me, to just remove the dimmer switches. In other words, mask the actual problem. Which is something more serious. Eventually, whatever is going on with them will fry sensitive electronics. The only difference I knew of is the bonding screw I removed in the LV’s. So although I wouldn’t think that would be the problem, I asked if I could remove the screws in the EG4’s. They agreed. There isn’t a bonding screw in the new units btw. I sent them a photo of the empty slot, and they seemed genuinely surprised. Which is a bit scary to me that they didn’t know what is inside their own products.

I asked for a return label since i wouldn’t be using the units. They transferred my case to tier 2 tech support. And there I sat, in limbo. I waited around 3 weeks and realized they never actually intended to do whatever it is that tech support was supposed to do. I didn’t need support. I had already removed the units. They didn’t respond to emails. And I could no longer reach them on the phone. So I asked customer service to check into my case. They said to wait for the “process”. Anyway, the process never happened. I eventually returned the inverters on my own dime. They charged a 40% restocking fee. I called again to see if tech support could finish the “process” now and give me an actual refund. The location of the inverters didn’t really matter either way. They had been off the wall nearly a month. But because I interrupted the “process” they wouldn’t consider it.

Signature solar is knowingly selling equipment that has issues. Tier 1 tech support considers it “normal”. But someone up the chain must know it’s a real problem. Since then, I’ve talked with others that have put a scope on them, and apparently it isn’t a pure sine wave they are generating. I haven’t seen the video of the scope yet. But I definitely wouldn’t be surprised. If there is a problem, don’t advise people to remove the symptom. I left a 1-star review on their website describing the experience with the inverters, and it was removed. Anyway, in summary, avoid signature solar. Customer services and sales are the only extensions that actually answer the phone. They sell equipment with known problems. And just generally don’t seem to care at all. I’ve never dealt with anywhere quite like it. Typically, a place with that poor of service would probably go out of business. But with the solar industry booming, they seem to be thriving.
Look at their EG4 6500EX ratings. All 5 stars, no complaints…impossible
 
Look at their EG4 6500EX ratings. All 5 stars, no complaints…impossible
I'll just say that Signature Solar did refund Gavin's money. And then they gave him a pair of free 6500EX inverters to install and review on his Youtube channel. He claims the problems are fixed. He does have an affiliate link in the video description. He has also received the 18KwPV unit and reviewed the installation.

I had problems with the 6500EX's, I have videos on Youtube with scope movies showing the units were defective. You can also find some of those videos in the forums. Units were RMA'ed and I have had the LV6548's installed waiting on the 6500EX replacements for several weeks. It required contacting Ben from Signature Solar thru this forum to finally get replacements sent out. I received the replacements today and will be installing the units tomorrow and do a followup video with scope movies included.

Should be a fun weekend. :)

I do know of a member that received replacements, installed them and now his TV is fried. He is currently looking for a full refund. I may or may not be looking for a refund, testing the replacements will determine the next move on my part. I want/need a SCC with at least a 500VOC limit due to how my array is setup.
 
As Zwy said I received a full refund with an apology. My issues with the inverters were resolved. I suppose that is a “claim” since no one else was at my house to see the lack of problems with the inverters. ??‍♂️
 
I found an LED bulb type that flickers only when my Harvest Right freeze drier is running. It's a GE Refresh LED 1600 lumens 17W. I only have one in my basement that been there for quite some time. I just noticed it today as I don't normally have that particular light on.

I strongly recommend panel LEDs for lighting. You can buy the ones with remotes that allow dimming and temperature of light control. I've never had a panel light dim over time, fail or strobe.
 
It isn't the light flicker I'm concerned about, it's dirty power and dirty sine. The light flicker is an indicator of dirty power. The failing TV one member experienced could be an indication the dirty power problem still exists. I have repeatably checked the LV6548's for the last 2.5 weeks and have not seen any dirty power. Think of all the circuit boards in your house, TV, washer, dryer, refrigerator, freezer, furnace, air conditioning, computers, heck even my clock has a board.

Currently working on my mini split install, inverter swap later today. Testing will begin shortly after. We shall find out if indeed the dirty power problem is fixed.
 
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