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I think you may be running into the same problem I was having with my MPP Solar AIO feeding my EmerGen Transfer Switch... Since most generator transfer switches don't switch neutral, they share the neutral in your main panel (where the N/G bond is). When you feed your EcoFlow AC in coming from...

FYI: I have the same unit and also see voltage discrepancies... sometimes as much as half a volt. This usually during AC charging. In my case, charging would stop prematurely. I adjusted the charging parameters accordingly and watched if/when the BMS cut off charging due to high cell voltage...

I had emailed Midnite about a month ago asking if they had any options for monitoring their DIY series AIOs. They said to give them about 2 months and they would be releasing something...

I'm thinking something like this: (as long a 6 circuits are enough)...

I think I'd just eliminate all the moving parts (everything in the Distribution Protection Box besides the Transfer Switch) and just run the Renogy into a small 2-pole breaker box prior to the transfer switch (for no other reason than to bond N/G).

domain resolves to: 15.197.219.181 (this time). GeoIP says it is in Seattle Traceroute shows a final hop (before the end destination) of 15.230.204.11. GeoIP says it is in Ashburn, VA. Can't wait to hear where it really is :)

Yeah, I'll have to break into the panel to put a clamp meter on it (both in and out)

Yes, I have the Samlex receiving AC Input from the Main panel (where the N/G Bond exists). If using a "traditional" generator transfer switch (most do not switch N and share the N/G Bond from the main source panel), there's a weird behavior that exists when passing through the AC (like a loop...

I think I just would not have voted in that case... Perhaps the Poll should have been reworded to specify if it was applicable to your system, would you use it? Or maybe a 5th option... "I can't use it" ?‍♂️ IDK, the way the polls look now, it would make someone wonder what's wrong with SA...

And I'm in the camp that I wish these Chinese units would address the issue (and properly document it) just like the top tier inverter/chargers do... :)

I've read that same recommendation by Electrodacus in their user manual. I interpreted that to be specific to the Electrodacus BMS and not the more "traditional" BMS' that sit inline of the current? EDIT: Maybe also more applicable to their solar charge controllers too? IE: How do two...

I actually have use case for both versions... Old version: (which I ordered) will work perfect for my off-grid cabin. When I'm running generator, I want to be charging. New version: Would work great for home where for logistical reasons I don't want to feed AC -In to my Inverter/Charger and...

Yes, it does. And the subpanel in the garage has it's own ground rod. I'm thinking to ground the panels (and any junction boxes/conduit inside the garage) to that same ground rod

Any other "frequency" changes in your environment? Certain WiFi frequencies can cause interference with Bluetooth. (Possibly a Wifi access point auto changed to a different frequency?) Even other "non-tech" devices can put out interference (thinking Microwave off the top of my head. But...

I have Solar Assistant (love it) and just recently setup Home Assistant. Planning to integrate the two. Once that is setup, you could setup a RasPi with VenusOS (talking to the Victron equipment) and use MQTT to forward the stats to Home Assistant.

Update: Didn't have a chance to see what voltages look like while charging yet. However, it's looking like this board is acting the same: Checking voltages tonight and the unit is reading a full tenth of a volt higher than reality under a less than 30W load..

Thanks for all the feedback everyone! Good tips on watching that the Wago doesn't clamp down on the insulation. To answer a few questions: Hard to tell from the Amazon listing or what's left of my Wago, what the amp rating is. But, since the entire assembly is rated at 30A, I would hope...

Is the b- side of the shunt sitting on top of your parallel cable to the 2nd battery? Or do you have the parallel cable connected to the p- side of the shunt?

I think as I was slowly fumbling with getting the connectors together, it sparked a bit. (Very similar to connecting the inverter right to the terminal on the battery). Using a small resistor for a moment between the cable and the terminal will pre-charge the inverter and prevent that spark ...

Well, I can't answer your question specifically. However, I'm thinking of doing the same thing. But, leaving it more as a permanent solution. Thinking the mounting on a trailer will help avoid the cost of permitting, inspections, etc (as I can claim it is a mobile system :-) . I understand...

Funny you mention it... I had previously bought (1) BB battery and after learning and being more comfortable, I am currently waiting on cells from Michael's group buy ;-)

Once you have it all connected, keep an eye on the voltage reading that the MPP unit is reading vs. what the voltage really is at the terminals on the unit (not the battery terminals). I have a thread going where the MS version appears to have issues reading the correct voltage. Curious if you...

Sorry everyone, should have clarified... The garage is detached. N-G Bond is at main panel in the house. So it sounds like at least my garage panel is "correctly" grounded to a ground rod (at least according to code). So back to my original question.... Do I not run any additional grounding...

Ah, yes, you are correct... I have been watching Will's videos for several months now and I only read your comment at face value and didn't get the joke. My apologies! And you're also correct... I should have refrained from posting. Walking away with tail between my legs...

Further testing yesterday... Under a 300+ Watt load and between 150-250 Watt solar input, I see the following: Shunt Reads 13.40V 1012 Reads 12.06V And then just a few minutes later with no other changes... 1012 Reads 12.78V. (it bounces around like this over the next 15 minutes)...

It's easy enough to add in my head (or have Home Assistant perform the calculations) when only on grid. However, once solar kicks in, it gets trickier. IE: How much solar is going to load and how much is charging vs the grid :unsure:

Regarding the built-in SCC... I saw a comment on one of the YouTube Videos that said it was pre-programmed for GEL batteries with no way to change that. Somewhere along the line, I read a comment that it was a Newpowa SCC and that the remote control could be purchased directly from them. I...

Not sure, there's a picture on the Amazon listing... looks like it says 221 EDIT: Actually, the one pic I posted shows what is remaining of the one Wago... It's a 221

Not Really... I've found 2 used 3b's over the last 2 months on FB marketplace for $50 each

Sorry, I meant ECO mode :) Which I guess in MPP Solar terms is called "Power Saving Mode" I guess that is probably fine. I'm planning on doing 2/0. (I understand if you remove the plastic inserts, you can fit 2/0 through the hole in the MPP)