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Bluetti’s CS is really bad. Seems like they are swamped with bad units. I see far too many reports of higher end units not working. Hate to say it but I would probably go the route of a couple batteries, a 1500W inverter and an MPPT for your solar. You could add a DC to DC for charging from the...

RoyPow definitely does make good stuff and the PowerUrus is one of the more reasonable batteries on the market with low temp protection and Bluetooth but they're still a little too high. These $270-$280 PowerQueens are really changing the game. I'd like to see their normal 100Ah batteries with...

I think you're really underestimating the value of being able to to load test individual cells. I've learned so much about the performance of my cells by running all kinds of discharging tests and in a world where you have no idea if you're getting garbage Grade B or good Grade B a discharge...

About halfway through I discuss the modules I like for PD. With 12V input the mist you’ll get is 36W on buck only modules. With a buck boost you’ll get 20V 5A=100W but you need more like 13V. Might be more lenient with 4S LFP though but I know for NMC that once my 4S pack gets below 3.50V per...

Adding a heating system into a battery is quite simple and cheap. It won't fit in one of these minis but any normal 100Ah battery there is plenty of space. The only downside is that it won't be part of your BMS, it'll be a separate temperature controller but that's not a huge deal. You can pay...

3.6V max. Use a lipo balance charger, don’t always use the balance function. It’s an A123 pack that was barely ever cycled. Worst I’ve seen the cells is 14mV when one hit 3.60. The others weren’t too far behind. Edit. Oh you were asking at 14V. 3.50V with typically an 8mV deviation

Was it at least a consistent 40mΩ for all the cells plus or minus a couple milliohms or are we seeing a deviation of like 6-10 milliohms? 40 is pretty high for a 280Ah cell....like triple a Grade A and double what I would want to see in a Grade B

I know I'm six months late but the Malectrics is comparable to the Kweld. I know the Kweld has a max amperage of about 2000A unless you trick the calibration. It's not enough to do copper alone. The trick is (learned this from Endless Sphere) to do a nickel copper sandwich. It actually might be...

No offense but you're way way off the mark. These would sell for at most $2 each in small quantities and around $1 for quantities of 1,000 or so. Beyond that I don't know what the prices usually look like but I would imagine over 10,000 brings you closer to 50 cents than 75 cents and buying in...

Sorry to necrothread but where did you purchase your 22Ah cells. I am assuming you are talking about the Gushen cylindrical that are 5C/10C.

The cells themselves will refuse to take a high charge rate. The way CC CV charging works is once the cell has reached a certain point, so long as your charger can be adjusted for a voltage limit and a current limit, the current will begin to fall naturally. The cells are pretty much refusing...

Chins uses twin 8AWG which is equal to a 5AWG. What does Epoch use? 6AWG?

The A40L is available on Aliexpress right now for $200 shipped to the US. You could resell it for $100 in an instant if needed. I don't think you'll find a better way to discharge your cells under $400. There is a new 50A capacity tester out there. $230 with shipping but I think I've seen it...

Do you still have voltage monitors for sale?

The active balancers have a "run" pad that is soldered short circuit. Remove the solder and add any simple switch. Only turn them on when you are running the packs on a charge cycle towards the top. Running them 24/7 has never yielded good results for me. You should only need to run them once a...

Watch Jehu Garcia on YouTube. He has videos of making powerwalls out of 36V batteries from scooters and he also sells 24V batteries meant to act as an expansion battery to EcoFlow devices. What EcoFlow model do you have? I think a converter then an inverter is too much lost in the conversion. I...

Has anyone considered putting several HP DPs units in series to power the RD Buck Power Supply (specially the 6018 or 6024)? I’m considering the XY6020 or the cheaper XY6020L as these units offer all the necessary features I need except current cutoff. I’m a big fan of the XYS3580 so I think...

Its the EBC-A40L. Not the EBC40L not the ECB EBC-A40L Interesting to me that the inside of it contains a 60A power supply yet the charge is limited to 40A (manual says 35A but that might be the prefer derated current)? I own the EBC-A20 (kind of wish I had gone with the EBD-A20H) EBC means...

That cutoff level on the charging looks very very low as in it will absorb for a very long time. If charging at 40A I would cut off at 2A or somewhere in that neighborhood.

My understanding of the warranty process from Battle Borns website (and just about all other LFP battery companies) is that you are responsible for the shipping costs..... So rely on a warranty and shell out the money for shipping or just buy a new $270 battery if your local nerd can't diagnose...

I know some don’t care for pouch cells but I just bought two of these and even after tax I was well under $600. Capacity test was 105Ah/1364Wh and 105Ah/1365Wh with cutoff at 10V. Arrived at 13.123V and 3.682 milliohms and 3.674 milliohms measured on the terminal with an RC3563. My guess is made...

If you still have one unopened one and you'll take $30 Paypal Friends and Family Shipped I'll take it. USPS Small Flat Rate Box is $8.50 on Pirate Ship.

Just tested two PowerQueen (which have striking similarities to the LiTime and Redodo so probably same thing, different label) Both came in at 13.123V. Internal resistance was nearly identical at 3.674 and 3.682 measured on the bare terminals. Discharge done at 10A on DL24 came in at...

If you have the money for 4 modules you can leave all the cells in the module and just cut the bus bars to electrically isolate the last 4. Then put them in a rack. The last 4 cells x 4 rack spaces means you have an extra 16 cells. Bam you got another 48V battery, its just split up into 4...

So I picked up one of these electric bus modules. After recently getting screwed on eBay with some Headways I wasn’t very optimistic but the price was too good to pass up since the seller was guaranteeing 90% capacity. At a 3A load (Sorry only have a DL24 and didn’t want to push it to 4A) I got...

$250 out the door (for some quantity)? Can you tell us the brand of the BMS and its specs? This is very interesting

Sweet Jesus 12kwh for free?

A BMS is not needed. But some common sense is. If your system is running without a human present to check on it at least twice a day and has the capability of recharging the cells in cold weather then you've set yourself up for failure. If you have cells that could be exposed to freezing temps...

1.118 milliohms?! Per cell? That’s really not good. They should be under 0.25 milliohms per datasheet but knowing we are all getting Grade B I’d be ok with 0.50 at a good price.