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You probably could. Here is another idea. I am using those exact bus bars on my MotorHome. Because I wanted my 4/0 wires to pass as much current through if I ever need to boost the chassis battery. I just stacked the main in and main out 4/0 wire lugs on the same bus bar terminal. Then used...

I have no idea if that is a bad idea or not. I just know there can be issues there.

Ok I was thinking a dc-dc charger. For what you have just a fuse by the 48v battery.

Is the Victron mppt 150/35 a smart mppt or is it the Blue power series. If it is the smart series - download the Victron connect app (on a cell phone) and set the settings there. My Smart mppt 100/50 does not have a wheel to set it up - all done through the app. If you post a screen shot of...

The next question is do you want your battery bank to be 48v or 12v? (Or 24v) If you have 48v, you will either have a converter 48 to 12v to run the 12v loads or you will have a 12v battery and the 48v will keep it topped off. You have a lot of 120v stuff with large draws: Microwave Water...

Your diagram needs all the positives and negatives flipped for every other cell - to indicate a series battery. I think that size of battery will be ideal for a Van. Find some bus bars and put those in the system on the 24v side - Blue sea makes good ones (you will need two) - Victron...

on the EG4’s As long as you can change the battery cell configuration (changing the buss bars and flipping cells) any 48v 16s bms could be inserted to run the rack mount. just need to solve all the issues. For Batrium specifically… you would need the Batrium watchmon Core, and then a Cellmate...

You can have many charging sources charging a battery at the same time so run all three at once. Also pwm are cheap chargers (the absolutely cheapest possible). Just by upgrading to a mppt charger you will gain some additional watts. Without knowing your trailer or your goals…. I would...

For 50a RV’s I believe the easiest choice is a Victron Multiplus II 2x120v. The Victron inverter will invert on both L1 & L2 and will automatically work correctly when you stay at a 50a RV park or a 30a RV park. Victron has basic schematics...

It is expensive but look at the Victron lynx distributor or power in. That it a very nice bus bar that can help you cleanup the wiring.

Probably out of the price range… Batrium. I have Batrium BMS, it will connect with Victron. For one battery it will be too much, but to add each additional 16s battery - you will just need another Cellmate K9. Especially if you wanted several 16s batteries- that’s when it may make sense...

I remember reading that having those batteries on their side can be problematic. (I don’t remember which side is ok). That is something to read the spec sheet very carefully.

Yea - at that cold you need to change something on the solar side: 2p solar Higher voltage mppt Different panels Or some cold winter morning you will blow up your mppt. Good Luck with your project!

Yes the VictronConnect app is more limited. If they haven’t changed it from my Multiplus…You will need the VE.bus to USB adapter, then in the PC (windows) is where you setup and can Change everything. There is a tab for “Assistants” there. That is a YouTube talking about using...

With Victron Multiplus for N-G bonds, you can use the default- closed when inverting - open when has grid or generator. Or change it yourself with a setting in software. I just don’t know if the Phoenix has the same option or not.

The big thing for my full-time RV is Victron has come out with new stuff that would have been better! I want the new stuff… The other thing is I have expanded one array- when installed it was the right size 400w of solar on a 100/30 mppt, but then I needed more power when conditions weren’t...

With parallel- your wire from the parallel point to the SCC needs to be 10awg - and the awg 6 from he SCC to your batteries/bus bar. You will also need fuses for each panel - there are MC4 fuses.

Wil’s list goes to Wirefy. I got a 270pc kit a few years ago for use around my MotorHome. I really like them. Used up some of the more popular sizes - got a more limited kit that was just the popular basic stuff. They have worked well - get a dedicated shrink crimp tool - it makes all the...

@Issac-1 I think there was a mistake made… The way to figure out the losses yourself… (you can also do this exercise with matching panels too). Volts * amps = watts In series - volts add - use the lowest amps In parallel- amps add use the lowest volts Use Vmp and Imp So if you connect two of...

A Victron Smart BP65 - should work good here. You can set the voltage cutoff and restart separately. I use it on my MotorHome so if the battery gets too low, it shuts that fuse panel off.

Remember fuses/breaker are wire and device protectors. If you modify the power- in to add the Mega fuses that will cover the fuse to the Multiplus and DC-Dc converter. (You could also eliminate the breakers for the mppt’s). And yes add a class T fuse just after the batteries.

I enjoyed building the batteries. I have done a write up on both builds - but I am not very good at documenting stuff. The 1st one is with the 25ah fortune cells. https://diysolarforum.com/threads/small-portable-battery-show-tell.20636/...

Amazon has them - you can even get 2/0 wire with 1/4 rings

The lithium batteries have two aging components: First is cycles - they are rated for a LOT of cycles! 4000 or so the way we use batteries. Dropping the battery to 80% is 1/5 of a cycle - 4000 /1/5th = 20,000 days = 54 years. So we are not going to wear out the battery that way. For us - Time...

Per the data sheet the mppt 75/15 can only deliver 220w or 15amps @12v. Since they are mounting flat-ish you never get full power out of them. I would not change them out. You will never see enough time above 220w to justify the expense. It is fine putting the higher voltage into these - it...

Three little things to consider: Look at the Smartshunt instead of the BMV712- no display (I never looked at it - I look at my phone or CCGX). You do lose a relay on the BMV712 display. The Smartshunt is cheaper. Second consider adding a Smart BP-65(or so) battery protect - between the...

The only thing I would change is I would put a battery monitor on the system Victron smartshunt or BMV712 - or another really good one. You need to know the status of the lithium battery- how much charge is in it. A 200ah battery and 350 watts of solar is a fair amount for a small system like...

I don’t know about the Daly’s… Are all the cables to each battery exactly the same? Length, size, etc. Do you have a clamp on multimeter that reads amps to verify that the other two batteries really are drawing zero amps? Maybe post a photo?

If your system has been running just fine for a while - yes you can. Especially if you make it even more conservative (like others here have suggested). I did the same thing on my system for about 2 weeks. (I can’t blame my bms supplier - battery acid does bad things to electronics). Just get...

That is a good question. Here is my understanding (maybe not correct - you may want to send an email to Batrium). I have some thoughts of expanding my 2p4s to a 3p4s system. I will continue to use one blockmom per “super cell”, so I only still only need 4 blockmons. (If I had the room and I...