It's NOT referring to 12V or 24V panels.
MPPT 75/15:
75 means maximum of 75Voc PV INPUT allowing for cold temperature voltage increases.
15 means 15A output to battery.
220W is output on a 12V BATTERY
440W is output on a 24V BATTERY
15A at 12V is half the power of 15A at 24V.
MPPT operating voltage range floor is 120V. I suspect that when it's hot, you may see a ~8% drop in your Vmp (check the NOCT or NMOT ratings for your panels for "hot" cell performance), and you're not meeting the minimum 120V.
Try 8S on one MPPT.
Vmp is where you get MPPT operation. Vmp is about 80% of Voc. 480Voc * .8 = 384V.
Your Voc will be at 414V. Provided it NEVER gets below -32°C, you should be good at 10S.
Your 10S Vmp will be about 331V.
This is self-imposed limitation of your chosen configuration. It's not a property of 24V systems.
The OP is proposing using 24V/200Ah rack mount batteries. Capacity expansion should be no more complex than your perception of adding more 48V rack mount batteries.
Can't render any advice based on bolded names.
Not in any truly meaningful way.
Only if the cells themselves are truly more efficient. Most modern panels are in the 19-21% efficiency range.
https://eg4electronics.com/backend/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/EG4-6000XP-Manual.pdf
Page 21
PV can only output power if it has a place to go. If your batteries are full, and you're only using 1000W of loads, the array will only produce 1000W.
IMHO, you have your work cut out for you. Lots of effort, low probability of success.
16V is like a 12V AGM measuring 5V or a LFP cell sitting at 1.25V... nothing good can come of it.
6.7 indicates a 12 week storage loss @30°C of 60%.. it's been a LOT longer than that.
I would measure all...
The 32.15 ISC is the issue.
MC4 connectors are only rated for 30A.
10awg may only be rated for 30A. Additionally, wiring must be chosen to meet 1.25X Isc value.
Shade sucks. If you're trying to mitigate shade, you only move to panel configuration shenanigans AFTER you've exhausted every...
Do you ever expect the system to provide more than 4000W of power?
If not, 24V is fine. The Schneider is a solid unit, and it sounds like just your batteries are broken. In good conditions, your array should be able to provide 8kWh/day. In winter... maybe 2-3kWh. Of course, this assumes you...
I honestly have to triple check it each and every time, and my chargers only have pins with no guide wires, so I have to manually get it right each time.
The extension wires I linked should be correct with the red at the most (+) position. Then it's up to you to only wire the first 5 black...