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SoC accuracy drifts. Batteries need to regularly reach true 100% SoC to track accurately, and that's as defined by the BMS, not by you. :)

It's NOT referring to 12V or 24V panels. MPPT 75/15: 75 means maximum of 75Voc PV INPUT allowing for cold temperature voltage increases. 15 means 15A output to battery. 220W is output on a 12V BATTERY 440W is output on a 24V BATTERY 15A at 12V is half the power of 15A at 24V.

414 was Voc.

Producing power at those levels, or is that Voc?

MPPT operating voltage range floor is 120V. I suspect that when it's hot, you may see a ~8% drop in your Vmp (check the NOCT or NMOT ratings for your panels for "hot" cell performance), and you're not meeting the minimum 120V. Try 8S on one MPPT.

Vmp is where you get MPPT operation. Vmp is about 80% of Voc. 480Voc * .8 = 384V. Your Voc will be at 414V. Provided it NEVER gets below -32°C, you should be good at 10S. Your 10S Vmp will be about 331V.

This is self-imposed limitation of your chosen configuration. It's not a property of 24V systems. The OP is proposing using 24V/200Ah rack mount batteries. Capacity expansion should be no more complex than your perception of adding more 48V rack mount batteries.

Can't render any advice based on bolded names. Not in any truly meaningful way. Only if the cells themselves are truly more efficient. Most modern panels are in the 19-21% efficiency range.

https://eg4electronics.com/backend/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/EG4-6000XP-Manual.pdf Page 21 PV can only output power if it has a place to go. If your batteries are full, and you're only using 1000W of loads, the array will only produce 1000W.

IMHO, you have your work cut out for you. Lots of effort, low probability of success. 16V is like a 12V AGM measuring 5V or a LFP cell sitting at 1.25V... nothing good can come of it. 6.7 indicates a 12 week storage loss @30°C of 60%.. it's been a LOT longer than that. I would measure all...

The 32.15 ISC is the issue. MC4 connectors are only rated for 30A. 10awg may only be rated for 30A. Additionally, wiring must be chosen to meet 1.25X Isc value. Shade sucks. If you're trying to mitigate shade, you only move to panel configuration shenanigans AFTER you've exhausted every...

Do you ever expect the system to provide more than 4000W of power? If not, 24V is fine. The Schneider is a solid unit, and it sounds like just your batteries are broken. In good conditions, your array should be able to provide 8kWh/day. In winter... maybe 2-3kWh. Of course, this assumes you...

I honestly have to triple check it each and every time, and my chargers only have pins with no guide wires, so I have to manually get it right each time. The extension wires I linked should be correct with the red at the most (+) position. Then it's up to you to only wire the first 5 black...

Sorry. Busy day yesterday, and today was Mother's Day... I dared not sneak onto the forum if she was lookin'... Glad you got it sorted!

On a vehicle, the chassis is the ground for both the DC and AC systems. If stationary, pounding a ground rod isn't a horrible idea, but it's not necessary.

With advanced settings, you can set float and storage voltages and all sorts of goodies:

Is there any sort of physical connection between them. I wouldn't think BT is reliable enough.

It's a sickness :p

Right, and that's what has me stumped. Have you triple checked that every single connection everywhere uses properly sized wire, quality crimps and is properly torqued? Item #2 in my spoilers.

You got the samlex for $70 OTD? Not bad at all.

BMS are not accurate until they get a full charge according to the BMS parameters. This is where you triple check each and every connection for quality and proper torque. Verify ALL voltages (batteries and cells), MPPT absorption voltage value, shunt value, etc., with a separate meter. Verify...

Heh... Being Bezo's bitch, I can look it up... mine cost me $279 5 years ago... :p Heh... $239 now... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EML562E

Which charger?

I expect the SGP is a Sigineer, and its surge is ungodly, but so it its idle consumption. Pretty sure you can hear it snickering at you as it drains your batteries while powering no loads... :P

Pretty sure I found the auction. Here's what Amazon sells it for: https://www.amazon.com/aeliussine-3000W-Split-Phase-Inverter/dp/B0CQQTW957 Looks like they're $450+ in other ebay auctions.

Separate set of leads is absolutely fine. Where you run into problems is trying to use ONE set of leads for two devices... several folks have tried that with disappointing results. Most common is to try to tap into existing leads with an active balancer. The thin BMS wires add notable...

Well, in a survival situation, I'd be willing to violate the terms of my lease . Don't even try it on anything less than a 1500W or higher inverter UNLESS it's an inverter microwave. If you're uncertain if it's an inverter unit, it's not. They damn well let you know. :) I would expect both...

This is not true as an absolute. 24V allows the use of smaller conductors. Doesn't work like that. Each 120VAC power outlet of your home can supply at least 1800W of power, but you don't think twice about plugging a 10W light bulb into it. Same thing with the inverter. Besides, what I'm...

That's morning. Note that I hit absorption at 9am. Those are MPPT sweeps where the MPPT tries to pull more power causing voltage drops and increased current. They can happen as often as every 10 minutes, and VRM logging at 1m intervals doesn't necessarily catch them. If you're still...

Best place to start is the manufacturer's manual: https://samlexamerica.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/11001-PST-600-12-24_1221_Hrez.pdf See 8.5 Nor are there instructions for HOW to connect them in parallel. A note about microwaves: 600W is not "a bit light" to run a microwave. Microwaves...

You've already calculated the current for the inverter. Select a suitably rated wire and a fuse 1.25X that - prefer class T fuse since you're using lithium. MPPT output is 70A max, so use wire rated for 70A and either a breaker or a fuse 1.25X 70A. You do not need any kind of fuse or breaker...

Your inverter consumes power just by being on. Probably in the 80-100W range 24/7. Unfortunately, an ad page gives us no meaningful information other than identifying it has the potential for grid feedback. I do not see any manual at the link provided. I'm referring to the user manual that...

Yes, but... ^What he said

BMS handles it all. The only thing you can do is impose more restrictive limits in DVCC - max voltage and max current. It will only respect these if they are LOWER than the BMS values. BMS values are visible in VRM advanced tab with the battery monitor (512) widget that indicates control...