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Why not just have a relay/contactor energized by the grid? Grid goes down and relay de-energizes. Or use a transfer switch like this, May have to reverse the inputs to get the desired priority switching. https://www.ebay.com/itm/314547669439

As I mentioned in another thread, it's not just power that is an issue. Got this today: "Stage 4 water restrictions are in full effect, you CAN ONLY water by using a hand held water hose. Please help in doing your part to conserve water. " Reminds me of when I lived in CA and went boating on...

I must have missed that. I wanted to see actual pictures of the readings. And yes, if there actually is a 1V drop (with a warm cable as validation) that is proof he has a resistance issue either due to undersized cables, or poor connections somewhere. It really is that simple.

Be aware that you can not go by the Rover's SOC reading. It is only using voltage to guestimate it. See this thread of mine regarding that issue. The rover will work, you just have to find the sweet spot with the settings (user profile not Li profile)...

How exactly is the inkbird set up? Is it turning the inverter off too soon? Bypass that for a while and see what happens.

A big issue with AGM is you can't check the specific gravity to see if they have been undercharged over time. And depending on the manufacturer, it may or may not be recommended to run an equalization on them. Personally, if it was my battery (I do have 4 AGMs) and it looked like it was shot, I...

A few observations. That is not a MPPT charge controller and no way it's rated for 60 amps. Cheap made in China PWM controller that is often misrepresented as MPPT and inflated current rating. Next, the "load" output is designed to power maybe a couple of amps at best (i.e. a couple of...

I am a believer in soldering most of the time. However, on larger cable lugs (4 awg and up), I have had the solder crack under temperature changes and cause an intermittent connection that gets worse over time. I now crimp the larger connectors. Only time will tell how long they hold up.

Go back and read the original post. It was about having the genny in an enclosure that under certain wind conditions could cause the exhaust to be blown back in the enclosure tripping the sensor. I believe there were several other posts about the same issue. I put "false alarm" in quotes to...

Got a link, because I'm not buying that is possible.

Perhaps this? https://diysolarforum.com/threads/read-this-before-posting-here.45893/

Due to the microwave and AC, the 3500W would not be a bad upgrade. I run my 3500W inverter 24/7 on a 12V system, so yes it will work. Going to 24V might be better for cable sized (lower current draw), but depending on what other devices run off the existing 12V system, converting to 24V may be...

I guess you don't work on electronics much. I use the current feature all the time.

IMO it’s all about what you are trying to validate. To be honest I never look at Wh. My shunts measure Ah in/out and that is the only metric I really care about. Been doing solar in one form or another for over 20 years.

When I had hail damage the insurance covered two of my panels that were damaged. They never even asked about permits or anything.

I see no reason the inverter and battery could not stay in the garage. I also don't think the "cart" needs to be that beefy. Might even be able to make it out of PVC.

Just another update. It has been nearly a month since my last post on this, and I have not touched the battery and let the bluetooth go to sleep since then. Woke it up and it still shows 93%. So as I noted above, for some reason if you set the BT to never time out, it will report the wrong SOC...

IMO, if you have hail bad enough to damage the panels. your roof and other items are going to have issues too requiring a call to the insurance company anyway. I have had a few hail storms. One required new roof, but the panels on my shed roof were fine. Another time I had no house roof damage...

If the AC guy is trying to sell you a 5 ton unit for 2400sq ft, you need to look for another AC guy. Bigger is not always better when it comes to AC units. It needs to be able to remove moisture from the air and if it's too large, that won't happen because it will short cycle too frequently and...

Huh? If the BMS were disconnecting, you would basically have an open circuit. The charger can't push amps into an open circuit. I agree with others about the circuit breaker. However, I would bolt those two lugs together temporarily and check again to make sure it's not a bad crimp.

Then perhaps it is you that is doing something wrong, and not everyone else as you claim.

If you have a 10Kw array, but have overpanneled to lets say 11Kw, on that cloudy day when 10Kw would have given you 3Kw, you will now get about 3.3Kw . How can you not understand that? And lets not talk just about cloudy days, People with fixed angle arrays may also overpanel for the winter...

Well, if anyone cares, I finished the capacity test. It came out to 105Ah. So, IMO it was not a bad price considering it does have Bluetooth (limited as it may be).

Like what? Just set them for the same voltage and walk away. No hard math or hard thinking required. As noted above, mine are working just fine. Am I "maybe" loosing a watt or two? Maybe, but not enough to even give a second thought to.

In my 40+ years of electronics, I had never heard the term before. Even that article you linked to only uses it in the title.

Not sure the OPer has time to be ordering parts. For what he needs simply splitting them into 24v packs will work fine. He can even parallel those then too.

I agree with the above to move that main negative to the negative of the upper left battery. But I still think all the batteries need to be checked individually. A shorted cell in one will cause that bank voltage to drop quickly like is being seen. It may also be confusing the charge controller.