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Luyuan battery case

I have several JK's out there setup like that, see below. No problems with it BUT I did use a Hydraulic Crimper to ensure the best & tightest crimps. TIP: Because the wires are silicone, use Heatshrink with adhesive/sealant, (call it lessons learned).

BMS Wiring-extensions.jpg
 
I have several JK's out there setup like that, see below. No problems with it BUT I did use a Hydraulic Crimper to ensure the best & tightest crimps. TIP: Because the wires are silicone, use Heatshrink with adhesive/sealant, (call it lessons learned).

View attachment 210792
Thanks Steve for the detailed reply and great labeled picture. These batteries are going to be fantastic.
I used lugs and busbars to make those connections before. :oops:
 
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I chatted with Amy about a closed loop JK BMS for one of my batteries. I will also order the BMS mounting plate and a new face plate with the closed loop BMS cutouts. She only wants $19 for the two plates and the 200A closed loop BMS (JK-PB2A16S20P) is $112. But shipping is by air so it won't be cheap.
I will get the shipping quote tomorrow.
I told Amy that these batteries need a class T fuse. She thanked me for the suggestion but I don't think she wants to do it.
I will probably have to add them myself. It is painful trying to fit that Blue Sea fuse holder in there.
 
Small stuff (<2.5kg) and small package size, by air is not as bad as most think. I get things by air if it's small & need it fast and the bit extra it costs is better than waiting 6-9 weeks. Are you also getting the 4.3" screen for the JK Inverter BMS ?
 
Small stuff (<2.5kg) and small package size, by air is not as bad as most think. I get things by air if it's small & need it fast and the bit extra it costs is better than waiting 6-9 weeks. Are you also getting the 4.3" screen for the JK Inverter BMS ?
I have 5 of the 4.3" displays to go with my 5 cases. Amy said the BMS and 2 plates weigh 7-8kg. She will get back to me when she has the shipping price
 
I have Luyuan box as well, the wide version. I picked the 200A JK BMS but received 150A breakers from Amy. I wondered if I should get 200A instead? and does anyone know 200A has same dimension as 150A breaker? cause my box already cut to fit the 150A.

Did you guys change the silicone wire to tinned copper?

Btw, does anyone have better ways to monitor several JKBMS units aside check bluetooth one at a time? Wired all JKBMS to Victron shunt?
 
I have Luyuan box as well, the wide version. I picked the 200A JK BMS but received 150A breakers from Amy. I wondered if I should get 200A instead? and does anyone know 200A has same dimension as 150A breaker? cause my box already cut to fit the 150A.

Did you guys change the silicone wire to tinned copper?

Btw, does anyone have better ways to monitor several JKBMS units aside check bluetooth one at a time? Wired all JKBMS to Victron shunt?
A member here wrote a driver that can be installed on a device running Venus OS.

 
I have Luyuan box as well, the wide version. I picked the 200A JK BMS but received 150A breakers from Amy. I wondered if I should get 200A instead? and does anyone know 200A has same dimension as 150A breaker? cause my box already cut to fit the 150A.

Did you guys change the silicone wire to tinned copper?

Btw, does anyone have better ways to monitor several JKBMS units aside check bluetooth one at a time? Wired all JKBMS to Victron shunt?
The 150A & 200A are the same physical size.
I also got the 200A JK-Inverter models with 200A breakers in all my boxes. Gotta say, my bank is such that no battery pack ever sees such a draw. 6x280AH.
The silicone wire is the best option really, they handle more & use ultra-fine silvered wire. There should be a copper Crimp Ring on the end of the wire to go into the breaker.

Monitoring can be done via the Bluetooth app (great but a PITA as you can't see the "bank at once". The PC app requires one port connected to a PC and there's quirks & foibles of course. Brucey pointed to the Victron driver and other software is being interfaced, so Home Assistant & Similar will soon be able to communicate with these new BMS'. Andy from Andy's Garage has a couple of Vids on the new JK's & Victron interop but I don;t know how current (up to date) they are as JK is continually tweaking & improving the Firmware & Software.
 
I have Luyuan box as well, the wide version. I picked the 200A JK BMS but received 150A breakers from Amy. I wondered if I should get 200A instead? and does anyone know 200A has same dimension as 150A breaker? cause my box already cut to fit the 150A.

Did you guys change the silicone wire to tinned copper?

Btw, does anyone have better ways to monitor several JKBMS units aside check bluetooth one at a time? Wired all JKBMS to Victron shunt?

If you'll be able to pull over 150A through the breaker then you'd better get a higher rated one, and it wouldn't harm getting a brand of known quality at the same time. - But - I guess you won't be able to and most likely have 280k / 304's? So 140A / 150A 0.5C rated, which doesn't give any headroom if you can charge or discharge at that current, but should mean your 150A breaker is within spec ish.

Nothing wrong with the silicone wire if specced correctly.

I use Serial Batttery as Brucey linked to, but if you've not got a full Victron system or intend to, just having the SmartShunt on the main negative for all your batteries is a good way to see the key details. I also have the SmartShunt like this, as the JK's can't be calibrated properly ever, especially under 5A or so, they aren't accurate enough, but.. they are close enough if you're not worried about absolute accuracy.
 
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I chatted with Amy about a closed loop JK BMS for one of my batteries. I will also order the BMS mounting plate and a new face plate with the closed loop BMS cutouts. She only wants $19 for the two plates and the 200A closed loop BMS (JK-PB2A16S20P) is $112. But shipping is by air so it won't be cheap.

Uh oh, that means I could easily swap out my 'older style' JK's for the inverter with new faceplate's...💡🤔💸
 
could easily swap out my 'older style' JK's for the inverter with new faceplate's

Food for thought. I have the older style in my portable built and the 4.3 inch screen. Love the screen. Still deciding on the other.
 
Uh oh, that means I could easily swap out my 'older style' JK's for the inverter with new faceplate's...💡🤔💸
The older version of the JK's have a different harness, they are not compatible.
Each segment has a Temp Sensor on the new models. If using 8S you get to use 2 Temp Sensors, if 16S you get 4.
At this time te JK-Inverter model is 100A/150A/200A.

A NOTE (general) If you have a 150A BMS that is all it will put out (by default) it will allow for a short surge pull for a second or two. That still means the breaker should match the BMS. 150A BMS = 150A Breaker and do on.
 
The older version of the JK's have a different harness, they are not compatible.
If one is doing a fresh build, e.g. new cells and or cases then this is a great opportunity to utilize the latest technology. On the other hand, this can also be a great opportunity for change if one is taking apart a previous build, checking and organizing cells and placing in a new battery case.
 
The older version of the JK's have a different harness, they are not compatible.
Each segment has a Temp Sensor on the new models. If using 8S you get to use 2 Temp Sensors, if 16S you get 4.
At this time te JK-Inverter model is 100A/150A/200A.
For an 8S re doing the harness Isn't really a big deal if the whole front panel and components are being swapped out anyway, shame they don't use the same connectors though!
A NOTE (general) If you have a 150A BMS that is all it will put out (by default) it will allow for a short surge pull for a second or two. That still means the breaker should match the BMS. 150A BMS = 150A Breaker and do on.

Thanks, valid point. OP had a 200A JK with a 150A breaker though, but if they had cells that have a 0.5C rating of 150A and set the same current limit or less in the BMS could get away with keeping the lower 150A breaker.

I normally try and rate breakers 1.25 x max current to avoid false tripping.
 
I normally rate my battery usage so it never sees >100a, even if wiring and breaker can handle way higher than that.
 
I didn't get ferrules with one of my cases and I don't have a crimper for them.
I am getting ready to order these but if anyone has better ideas please let me know. Thanks


Guys, I'm having trouble with these ferrules. I'm starting to wonder if we should just put the wire in the breaker.
I'm using 2 AWG welding cable. Can someone please show me what you are doing?breaker.jpg
 
Guys, I'm having trouble with these ferrules. I'm starting to wonder if we should just put the wire in the breaker.
I'm using 2 AWG welding cable. Can someone please show me what you are doing?View attachment 211678
Haven’t started mine yet, but the silicon wire is a b*tch it expands so much when stripped it is hard to get it into the lug.
 
Guys, I'm having trouble with these ferrules. I'm starting to wonder if we should just put the wire in the breaker.
I'm using 2 AWG welding cable. Can someone please show me what you are doing?

I did try this without a ferrule. It would NOT hold. Unfortunately I destroyed my copper rings and had to pick up some new ferrules. I used a crimper to secure them.

If memory serves me correctly @Steve_S shared what worked for him. Just can’t put my finger on the post. My apologies in advance if I am remembering this incorrectly.
 
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