Lighthouse Beacon
Following the Light
For a system this small, based on my research, these factors are mostly null.
SUNGOLD 10KW 48V SPLIT PHASE SOLAR INVERTER
- Thread starter Lighthouse Beacon
- Start date
Lighthouse Beacon
Following the Light
Just got the truck done.. I better get my 25% off discount!
Kenny_
Solar Addict
OH MY LORD!!!!
Kenny_
Solar Addict
Brucey
Solar Wizard
Trying to figure out if this is real or CGI.
Kenny_
Solar Addict
Two bads don't make a good.
Lighthouse Beacon
Following the Light
Sungold 10k Inverter 4 Months Running Follow up Video
CaliSunHarvester
Solar Enthusiast
Good description why you like SA. The whole install looks good. SGP will like it.
I have the entire main house (4000sqft, 2 kitchens, hot tub, electric water heater) on solar and used utility power for a few hours only (10 maybe) in the first half of March. If I charge the PHEV on the SGP system, I can push consumption to 45kWh in a day.. which in recent weather is no problem. I do have 13kW in pv now.
(Usually I charge the PHEV with a smaller dedicated pv system.)
Not on solar: pool equipment, guest houses, well pump, booster pump.
Really happy with the inverter, have 5 batteries and thinking of increasing to 9 before winter.
But I won't make a video. I still have some temporary portions here and there .
All that said, did you read the thread "House burnt down"? It illustrates the importance of class-T fuses. The system there had operated for 4 (!) years before a bad fire happened.
So, I am thinking of a class T fuse between each battery and the bus bar. I saw your have a breaker but no fuse either?
I have the entire main house (4000sqft, 2 kitchens, hot tub, electric water heater) on solar and used utility power for a few hours only (10 maybe) in the first half of March. If I charge the PHEV on the SGP system, I can push consumption to 45kWh in a day.. which in recent weather is no problem. I do have 13kW in pv now.
(Usually I charge the PHEV with a smaller dedicated pv system.)
Not on solar: pool equipment, guest houses, well pump, booster pump.
Really happy with the inverter, have 5 batteries and thinking of increasing to 9 before winter.
But I won't make a video. I still have some temporary portions here and there .
All that said, did you read the thread "House burnt down"? It illustrates the importance of class-T fuses. The system there had operated for 4 (!) years before a bad fire happened.
So, I am thinking of a class T fuse between each battery and the bus bar. I saw your have a breaker but no fuse either?
Lighthouse Beacon
Following the Light
Yes I’d like to add fusing between each battery at some point. I’d figured there was some short circuit protection between the batteries already which would help? I don’t think the wall batts have a breaker like the rack systems but the batteries do disconnect from the busses correct? I know during ‘FULL’ and ‘OVP’ I’d heard a click and the batteries disconnect? I know fuses would be a good idea but I wonder if we have any other protection, @42OhmsPA can you tell me more about this? What would be the worst case scenario? Some sort of short circuit inside the batt case and the fuse would disconnect that batt from the bar? Is that what could happen?
CaliSunHarvester
Solar Enthusiast
I think the worst case is one battery going bad and the others dumping into it. The thread "house burned down" is very detailed. The breakers may not be able to break the high current. Or they may be too slow. Wires melt in 0.1s at high enough current.
I have a single class T on the + side of my 24V system, straight next to the battery + pole. It's 3 batteries each 24V 200Ah and 200A BMS.
I am not sure why I didn't do the same for the 48V system. Maybe because the rack batteries look so sophisticated.
Remember that guy did a clean install and operated it for 4 years. He used "mega" fuses instead of ClassT. I believe some manufacturers incl. Victron actually recommend Mega fuses(?).
Lighthouse Beacon
Following the Light
Yes I remember. I’d planned on cleaning up my buss bar wiring and adding fuses this this guy did:
but I guess those are the “junk” mega fuses? And everyone says go class T. But I still don’t understand what fuses to use. I’ve had that marked as a project but snooping around the forums and Google hasmy really led me to answers. I’m using the included battery wires, which are 4ga I think? And the packs can do 100 amps? So this?
But they are junk? I just don’t know
CaliSunHarvester
Solar Enthusiast
My 24V system has the class t fuse in a plexiglass container. It's supposed to contain a mess. I haven't had a chance to verify.
Lighthouse Beacon
Following the Light
Are you going to fuse each of your 48v packs? What fuse are you going to use? I guess we need to. It makes sense to do it
42OhmsPA
What's in a title?
If there is no breaker on the batteries I'm guessing the click is the BMS disconnecting.
The worse that can happen would really bad... A fuse would protect against a short circuit, as long as it can extinguish the ark.
Personally I'd run a Class T, or fuse with equal or better interrupt rating, for each pack; 125A - 150A should be acceptable. At a minimum I would run a 250A class T between the main + bus and the inverter.
CaliSunHarvester
Solar Enthusiast
That was exactly my question for you LOL
It's said probably on every of the 20+ pages in the house-burnt-down thread: fuses protect wires, not equipment.
But yes, my intuitive answer is one class T per 48V battery.
In the 24V system I have only 1 fuse, but those 3 batteries are not on a bus bar.
I'm thinking rated up to 60V (not 48V) and 125A?
I use SGP's wires which are AWG 4 = 85A ampacity.
The most the inverter can pull is 10kW / 50V = 200A. Ideally, those 200A are split evenly across (in my case) 5 batteries = 40A each. However, it could be more if not well balanced. I recall that the rack batteries can deliver 50A sustained and 100A for a short period. So the fuse should probably be 125A?
CaliSunHarvester
Solar Enthusiast
I have this one in my 24V system:
a no-name product, I fear.
After reading on the risks, I may want to buy a known brand for the 48V system.
a no-name product, I fear.
After reading on the risks, I may want to buy a known brand for the 48V system.
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Lighthouse Beacon
Following the Light
I decided to just run the victron recommended fuses from signature solar. I think based on the statistical likelihood all this fails and my house burns down… is still lower than me being killed in a car accident on the way to work so just play the odds. I’m going to wire these in like the video above did. I can’t fit those T fuses on this buss based on what I am reading. Hopefully this gives me some additional ‘theoretical’ protection.
CaliSunHarvester
Solar Enthusiast
You bought the mega fuses?
The other thread had a video where someone tested them.
One user summarized it up:
"After watching that video not sure anyone should be using mega fuses
"Post in thread 'House burned down' https://diysolarforum.com/threads/house-burned-down.83098/post-1090686
Brucey
Solar Wizard
No the class Ts are much larger than a megafuse. You'll need a class t power in which is only available in m10 bolt size.
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