42OhmsPA
What's in a title?
Clean setup, nice work.
Install and Operation of the SUNGOLD 10KW 48V SPLIT PHASE SOLAR INVERTER
- Thread starter Kenny_
- Start date
Kenny_
Solar Addict
Just got another #12 Com error this morning... 
Had to restart everything....and reset the clock on my microwave...
Had to restart everything....and reset the clock on my microwave...
Lighthouse Beacon
Following the Light
Clamp your L1 and L2 with your meter. Record your amps periodically throughout day and loads. I know @42OhmsPA and others didn’t believe me when I said perfecting your load balance across phases will make that not happen anymore. I’ve got several months without that error now since I moved some circuits over to my L2. My panel was wired pretty stupid from prior owner. It’s too much to type here but their is data to suggest this will help to mitigate the rate of occurrence of that errorJust got another #12 Com error this morning...
Had to restart everything....and reset the clock on my microwave...
Kenny_
Solar Addict
Mine is definitely unbalanced but can't easily balance them ..... still may take a look at your method if it gets truly annoying!
42OhmsPA
What's in a title?
It's not that I don't believe you, I just haven't tried it to verify but I also have not seen the fault again. It happened while I was at work, the largest draw running was a 240V minisplit. I've had one leg up around 4000W, the other below 1000W numerous times with no faults.
Regardless, I'm glad it's working for you.
CaliSunHarvester
Solar Enthusiast
How can one perfectly balance the 2 phases?
Right now mine looks like this:
19.5A on both phases from water heater
9A on L1 from hot tub
1.5A on L2 from fridge
So a difference of 7.5A
This happens frequently. Could be improved by wiring the hot tub as 240V on both phases (it's possible).
We have 2 fridges and I put them on different phases, but of course they don't come on at the same time.
Edit: I have never had that comm error 12.
Right now mine looks like this:
19.5A on both phases from water heater
9A on L1 from hot tub
1.5A on L2 from fridge
So a difference of 7.5A
This happens frequently. Could be improved by wiring the hot tub as 240V on both phases (it's possible).
We have 2 fridges and I put them on different phases, but of course they don't come on at the same time.
Edit: I have never had that comm error 12.
Kenny_
Solar Addict
After some nice days...now we get 3 days of weather....
Cap'n the batteries cain't take no more!
weather.... Cap'n the batteries cain't take no more!
marionw
Solar Enthusiast
The Mr. Coffee is killing you....After some nice days...now we get 3 days of
Cap'n the batteries cain't take no more!
Zwy
Emperor Of Solar
Anything that can be run on 240V should be run on 240V. My hybrid water heater- 240V. Mini split heat pumps- 240V. If I purchase a hybrid heat pump dryer, it will be 240V.
It really doesn't matter so much for me with a pair of LV6548's as one leg can be loaded down fully while the other idles along but The Official Loads Tester will run many things at one time and I commonly see almost 6Kw on one leg while the other leg is at 2Kw or less.
CaliSunHarvester
Solar Enthusiast
I have been thinking about this several times today. The hot tub circuit was added decades after completion of original construction. A 1/2" metal conduit runs from the main panel / solar panel room through the masonary wall, outside along the house, then into a slab which was poured for the addition of the indoor hot tub room. Ideally I could pull an extra wire through that 1/2". However, I fear that they pulled romex through the conduit. The total run is about 70 to 80 ft with three or four 90 turns. It's romex on the visible parts of both ends.
If it's romex, I don't think I am capable of adding even just a 14 gauge wire.
Zwy
Emperor Of Solar
I'd pull the Romex out and install THWN. Most likely it is NM-B. Damp/wet location is prohibited for NM-B in a damp/wet location for a reason. On one of my rentals the plumbing/heating guy ran NM-B to the central air condensing unit before I purchased the house. The paper lining in the NM-B wicked moisture into the breaker panel. In the end, I had to replace the whole panel and upgrade the whole service to latest NEC.
Attach the THWN to the Romex to pull it thru. If these are 90 degree bends, you shouldn't have a problem pulling it that short distance. You could cut the conduit and install LB's possibly. If they used LB's, then it makes it easy. To see if you can pull it, disconnect one end and see if you can move it using the other end but leave some sticking out so you can attach the THWN.
Kenny_
Solar Addict
Lighthouse Beacon
Following the Light
The inverter doesn’t mind imbalanced legs, it’s managing any shift of phase between them… that’s what increases the SPI interface communication which increases the likelihood of a compiling problem between master/slave and a tossed 12 error. Less imbalance, less potential phase shifting, less communication, less errors.
If you’re not seeing a 12 error often just rock on.
If you’re not seeing a 12 error often just rock on.
Kenny_
Solar Addict
I'm not worrying much on it.... it's just annoying and I've got batteries to worry about!!!
P.S. because of our clouds, rain, snow for the last three days I had to resort to fully charging the batteries overnight via GRRRRRRRRRRid!
Good to give 'em a swift kick in the pants now and then!
CaliSunHarvester
Solar Enthusiast
I would say it would be a serious problem if it were to happen at my installation at a time when I am not around, or, worst case, have passed away. Not sure what my wife or daughter would do. I do not have any transfer switches.
There's another thread here where a SGP 8kW model suddenly stopped charging from solar.
I watch it very carefully with my worst case situation in mind.
Edit:
I have started a web site that documents the various things on our property for future work, and also maintenance. Also some basic HOW-TO posts like "how can I find out if the battery is full?" (Need to keep all lingo like SOC out there.)
Kenny_
Solar Addict
When it happens here, there doesn't seem to be any effect on the operation. I.E. it keeps putting out power and appears to be charging from PV but not sure what would happen if it just kept going for a full day or something... I've got no idea what is really going on that causes it and apparently Sungold doesn't either cause they didn't answer my query (but what's new?)....
CaliSunHarvester
Solar Enthusiast
Oh, that's much better. I never had that error code 12. I had to shutdown only once when there was a short circuit, and the inverter was not putting out AC until I rebooted.
Maybe code 12 goes away after 24h on its own?
CaliSunHarvester
Solar Enthusiast
I do have a small issue / question about configuration settings.
In the past 2 or 3 months, my setup has worked, mostly I did not look at it any more, it just works.
I had [01] = UTI and [06] = SNU.
[28] was 5A which is how much I wanted to charge the battery bank from Grid-in.
The breaker that controls the AC-input ("grid-in") is easily accessible and has remained always off except when weather was overcast for more than a few hours. Basically, when the battery would go below 20%, I flipped that breaker on, and as weather improved, I turned it off.
This is an overcast week again, and I wanted to automate this. No more flipping breakers -- or calling the wife to flip it on.
I changed [01] to SBu.
Changed [05] to 53.2V -- I want the battery to be the source of power instead of utility when battery voltage reaches 53.2V which seems to be something like 50% SOC.
Changed [06] to OSO -- solar charging only, not interested in charging the battery from grid power.
Indeed sometime this morning an alarm was issued that the battery dropped below 10% (water heater had kicked in), and power started coming from grid.
Around 1pm I observed battery voltage of 53.5V (not resting voltage, obviously, the sun had come out and I had 3.2kW from solar panels).
However, the house load (250W) was still on grid pass-through.
Why did it not stop using grid-in?
I turned off the breaker on the left side of the unit, and it started to use battery to power the load.
After a while I turned that breaker back on, and it did not revert to pass-through.
My setting for [05] was accepted as 53.2V. The BMS did not override it with its preferred number 57.6V
Again, shouldn't it have stopped consuming grid power as soon as 53.2V was reached?
At 1pm, I had 53.5V and SOC of 41%
Each individual battery showed 53.5V
In the past 2 or 3 months, my setup has worked, mostly I did not look at it any more, it just works.
I had [01] = UTI and [06] = SNU.
[28] was 5A which is how much I wanted to charge the battery bank from Grid-in.
The breaker that controls the AC-input ("grid-in") is easily accessible and has remained always off except when weather was overcast for more than a few hours. Basically, when the battery would go below 20%, I flipped that breaker on, and as weather improved, I turned it off.
This is an overcast week again, and I wanted to automate this. No more flipping breakers -- or calling the wife to flip it on.
I changed [01] to SBu.
Changed [05] to 53.2V -- I want the battery to be the source of power instead of utility when battery voltage reaches 53.2V which seems to be something like 50% SOC.
Changed [06] to OSO -- solar charging only, not interested in charging the battery from grid power.
Indeed sometime this morning an alarm was issued that the battery dropped below 10% (water heater had kicked in), and power started coming from grid.
Around 1pm I observed battery voltage of 53.5V (not resting voltage, obviously, the sun had come out and I had 3.2kW from solar panels).
However, the house load (250W) was still on grid pass-through.
Why did it not stop using grid-in?
I turned off the breaker on the left side of the unit, and it started to use battery to power the load.
After a while I turned that breaker back on, and it did not revert to pass-through.
My setting for [05] was accepted as 53.2V. The BMS did not override it with its preferred number 57.6V
Again, shouldn't it have stopped consuming grid power as soon as 53.2V was reached?
At 1pm, I had 53.5V and SOC of 41%
Each individual battery showed 53.5V
42OhmsPA
What's in a title?
Are you using communications?
If you are, you want to use settings 61 and 62. If you're not I don't have an answer but I'll digest it some more.
10% is the default low SOC for switching to utility with communications.
CaliSunHarvester
Solar Enthusiast
yes, "full" communications.
61 and 62 seem like a duplicate of 5 and 6.
5 and 6 are voltage, 61/62 are SOC.
It makes sense to use SOC when available. I had not scrolled that far.
I just looked at 61 and 62, and indeed they were 14% (!) and 100%.
As I read the description for 62, it is unclear.
"switches to inverter output mode when SOC is greater than this setting (unit: %)"
this does not sound at all like "switches from utility to battery". But in context with the interpretation of 61, you are probably right.
I changed [62] to 50%. I will have an opportunity to find out probably tomorrow morning.
THANK YOU!!
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