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Microair EasyStart

R

RoadTurtle

Solar Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 30, 2022
Messages
368
For my TT running on a 2500w generator, i installed microair easystart. aircon went from stalling the generator to running fine. .

Got a bit more interesting in the 5th wheel Multiplus II 2x. It would start the aircon, but MP went into overload, and I was scrambling to shut off anything 120v I could quickly grab. It started and ran, but it wasn't pretty. . Wow, what a difference, and now I have some data :) 15k ducted aircon. Without easy start, it and what I couldn't turn off, over 3k watts. Adding easy start, and same shut off loads I had before. .

I don't recall the exact numbers, but
400w when fan started up
800w after a few moment
1200w after a few more moments
1400w after a few more moment
1468w compressor finally kicks in .

Total time roughly 2+ minutes from system start to fully operational .

Installation took about 45 minutes. I could probably do one tomorrow in 15 minutes. Positive point, I found the hot copper line rubbing against the frame and it would probably have failed in a matter of months or a couple of years.
 
Assume you know the EasyStart has to be given five startup sequences to optimize for given air conditioner load. It saves the best startup of five sequence cycles. The first training sequence is conservative with less voltage ramping to ensure there is not a stall and it progressively increments greater voltage ramping timing to get incrementally better startup surge reduction. It can detect when it has gone too far and is getting close to a compressor stall during startup.

You have to ensure you leave enough off time between training sequences to allow air conditioner to equalize its refrigerant pressure. Usually about 5 minutes OFF period between training cycles is enough time.

This is best done on solid AC grid main power so training is not influenced by generator or inverter voltage slump.

If you think the five training cycles got screwed up in some way you can reset Easystart to initial setup and do the training sequences again.

Never move Easystart to a different air conditioner without resetting it to default and performing a new five cycle training sequence.

If you have a clamp-on amp meter with good surge max function you can watch the progression of lower and lower startup peak current on each successive training startup sequence.

The fifth cycle may be close to a compressor stall. Mine was pretty obvious it was close to a stall on fifth cycle. The unit selected the fourth sequence for its saved ramp time sequence for the sixth startup onward.

75-65% startup surge reduction is typical. Most 12k-15k btu RV A/C's will drop from about 50A peak surge down to 15-18 amps peak startup surge current.
 
If you have the "Blue" model Micro-Air, it will report out all of the stats via the EasyStart app. Don't even need to bust out the meter to get all of the readings.

You can monitor it in real time, force re-learning, report faults and upload logs to Micro-Air, etc.
 
RCinFLA said:
75-65% startup surge reduction is typical. Most 12k-15k btu RV A/C's will drop from about 50A peak surge down to 15-18 amps peak startup surge current.
Click to expand...
I've installed a hard start kit from Supco SPP6 and it helped my inverter to start my RV A/C.

Seems like the Micro Air is smarter.
 
jberger said:
If you have the "Blue" model Micro-Air, it will report out all of the stats via the EasyStart app. Don't even need to bust out the meter to get all of the readings.

You can monitor it in real time, force re-learning, report faults and upload logs to Micro-Air, etc.
Click to expand...
Mine has this feature. I recently ran the re-learn program and on utility power the inrush is around 55A@240VAC. When I run off my inverter & batteries, the inrush goes up to around 63A. I'm guessing this is due to power sag, since the compressor startup is pulling 15kw from a 12k inverter. Running current is only around 15A@240VAC.
 
Just to share my observations about this product with you - it works great in my situation:
  • Trane heat pump XR14-4TWR4060G1000AC (5 ton - 60000 BTU)
  • Micro-Air EasyStart 368 Soft Starter (ASY-368-X72-BLUE)
The heat pump is specified with 144 LRA (locked rotor amps ) and 24.4 RLA (rated load amps).

Before installation I've measured 162 amps inrush (2 times the exact same value in a row with 10 minutes waiting time between the two measurements) and about 17 amps runtime (the heat pump is running now in cooling mode - it starts getting hot here in Arizona).

Over the 5 learning cycles the inrush decreased with these steps (the first value is without micro-air): 162A / 47.1A / 42.2A / 33.9A / 33.5A
Btw., the runtime amps reduced from 17A to 15 A (but I don't know if it has to do with the micro-air or if it's a coincident)

This is an unbelievable reduction of factor 4.8! That's incredible and will hopefully help to increase the lifetime of the inverters AND the compressor motor. There are also two other positive side effects. The start of the compressor is now very silent instead of the previous loud "bang" when it starts and the lights don't flicker anymore (even when connected with the grid).
 
Browse said:
Mine has this feature. I recently ran the re-learn program and on utility power the inrush is around 55A@240VAC. When I run off my inverter & batteries, the inrush goes up to around 63A. I'm guessing this is due to power sag, since the compressor startup is pulling 15kw from a 12k inverter. Running current is only around 15A@240VAC.
Click to expand...
What is your HVAC system's tonnage/BTU rating?
 
OTRwSolar said:
What is your HVAC system's tonnage/BTU rating?
Click to expand...
It's an older 4-ton Lennox Elite HS26-048 model. LRA is around 129A. System uses a TXV instead of a piston, so the reduction of the soft starter is less than what would normally be possible.
 
I looked at Blu easystart, but the sales brochure said it was for diagnostic reasons. I chose to not get the blue unit.
.
It did seem to reduce running amps, but I don't have enough data to make that claim. The compressor also seemed to run quieter, which also doesn't make sense.
 
RoadTurtle said:
I looked at Blu easystart, but the sales brochure said it was for diagnostic reasons. I chose to not get the blue unit.
.
It did seem to reduce running amps, but I don't have enough data to make that claim. The compressor also seemed to run quieter, which also doesn't make sense.
Click to expand...
I've chosen the bluetooth version to be able to check from time to time if the inrush current (of the last start) is still low. Without this feature you always need to remove the cover from the compressor case to access the wires and measure via a clamp amp meter - which would be very inconvenient. Also it shows you via bluetooth how often the unit was started (and if, how many faults) and beside the inrush current, it shows the current running amps in the app. Here is an example screenshot of the main view of the bluetooth app.

1681773311934.png
 
EasyStart, and like units, are a combination hard-start and soft start functions.

Hardstart kits just parallels a large value capacitor to run capacitor during the startup period. It provides a close to 90 deg phase shift to the start winding of motor during the highly inductive startup period, increasing the motor torque. It actually increases startup current a bit but it lasts for a shorter period of time, typically less than a quarter of second. Weak link on these is the relay that releases connection to start capacitor when start winding voltage rises after startup.
Hard start capacitor kit.jpg

Softstarter is a triac based 'light dimmer' that effectively ramps up the AC voltage for the startup period. Done alone, it reduces the start up surge current, but it lengthens the startup time period. Triacs have about 1.5-2 volts drop when fully on, so if left in circuit they require a large heat sink.

Combining both functions gives startup torque boost and voltage ramping current reduction.

There is a relay that bypasses the Easystart triac device after startup so it does not carry the run current through the triac that would generate a lot of heating of the triac.

Unit is bypassed after the start up period, so there is no effect on run current.

Weak link is the electrolytic based, large uF value startup capacitor. It is no different than start capacitor used on water pumps and air compressors that usually have a centrifugal switch that takes the starter capacitor out of circuit after motor spins up to running rpm's.

These black plastic encased electrolytic paste based capacitors are not as reliable as a foil based aluminum container run capacitors. Their electrolyte will dry out over time, reducing their capacitance. This reduces the torque boost they provide, and no longer provides optimum trained startup cycling.

With the 'Blue' BT version Easystart, you can keep an eye on startup surge current on phone app. If you see it start to creep up over year or two of use it is likely due to starter capacitor degradation.

It is a good idea to buy a spare start capacitor (<$20) to have on hand for replacement. Easy to change out starter capacitor. It has spade lug wire connections to capacitor terminal lugs. Will need a new tie-wrap strap to hold capacitor in place.

Recommended Start Capacitor value.
Capacitors
72-86MFD - Up to 12K BTU A/C
88-106MFD - 13-23K BTU A/C
108-130MFD - 24-36K BTU A/C (use ASY-368 Easystart)
189-227MFD - 37-48K BTU A/C (use ASY-368 Easystart)
270-324MFD - 49-72K BTU A/C (use ASY-368 Easystart)

115VAC applications can use 250V or 330V rated start capacitors.
230VAC applications must use 330V or 440V rated start capacitors.


Cap Start Induction Motor_2.jpg
 
Last edited:
RCinFLA said:
EasyStart, and like units, are a combination hard-start and soft start functions.

Hardstart kits just parallels a large value capacitor to run capacitor during the startup period. It provides a close to 90 deg phase shift to the start winding of motor during the highly inductive startup period, increasing the motor torque. It actually increases startup current a bit but it lasts for a shorter period of time, typically less than a quarter of second. Weak link on these is the relay that releases connection to start capacitor when start winding voltage rises after startup.
View attachment 147318

Softstarter is a triac based 'light dimmer' that effectively ramps up the AC voltage for the startup period. Done alone, it reduces the start up surge current, but it lengthens the startup time period. Triacs have about 1.5-2 volts drop when fully on, so if left in circuit they require a large heat sink.

Combining both functions gives startup torque boost and voltage ramping current reduction.

There is a relay that bypasses the Easystart triac device after startup so it does not carry the run current through the triac that would generate a lot of heating of the triac.

Unit is bypassed after the start up period, so there is no effect on run current.

Weak link is the electrolytic based, large uF value startup capacitor. It is no different than start capacitor used on water pumps and air compressors that usually have a centrifugal switch that takes the starter capacitor out of circuit after motor spins up to running rpm's.

These black plastic encased electrolytic paste based capacitors are not as reliable as a foil based aluminum container run capacitors. Their electrolyte will dry out over time, reducing their capacitance. This reduces the torque boost they provide, and no longer provides optimum trained startup cycling.

With the 'Blue' BT version Easystart, you can keep an eye on startup surge current on phone app. If you see it start to creep up over year or two of use it is likely due to starter capacitor degradation.

It is a good idea to buy a spare start capacitor (<$20) to have on hand for replacement. Easy to change out starter capacitor. It has spade lug wire connections to capacitor terminal lugs. Will need a new tie-wrap strap to hold capacitor in place.

Recommended Start Capacitor value.
Capacitors
72-86MFD - Up to 12K BTU A/C
88-106MFD - 13-23K BTU A/C
108-130MFD - 24-36K BTU A/C (use ASY-368 Easystart)
189-227MFD - 37-48K BTU A/C (use ASY-368 Easystart)
270-324MFD - 49-72K BTU A/C (use ASY-368 Easystart)

115VAC applications can use 250V or 330V rated start capacitors.
230VAC applications must use 330V or 440V rated start capacitors.


View attachment 147315
Click to expand...

Good tip for an awesome product.

Dropped the starting amps of 3.5 ton dual compressor Trane from 100+A down to 25A @ 240V.

Should be able to start and run that now with two Victron 3000VA inverters running in split phase.
 
When I replaced my 5-2-1 hard start kit with the EasyStart 368, I also replaced my run capacitor and contactor which were both pretty old. I highly recommend Amrad for run capacitors as they are still made in the USA and are built with very high quality materials with good production QC.
 
The startup surge current reduction by the Easystart greatly reduces the stress on contactor contacts and compressor.

Having the condenser fan turn on before the Easystart compressor startup sequence puts some initial load on an inverter-generator that is operating in ECO mode with reduced rpm. It causes the inverter-generator to begin rev up to higher rpm before the compressor surge begins.

This is why there is a couple of seconds delay from point where contactor turns on until compressor startup begins. Easystart electronics reboots every time contactor closes when it receives power. There is a lockout timer to prevent restarting compressor within about five minutes after last turn-off to give time for refrigerant pressure to equalize reducing head pressure load on compressor startup.
 
Last edited:
RCinFLA said:
EasyStart, and like units, are a combination hard-start and soft start functions.

Hardstart kits just parallels a large value capacitor to run capacitor during the startup period. It provides a close to 90 deg phase shift to the start winding of motor during the highly inductive startup period, increasing the motor torque. It actually increases startup current a bit but it lasts for a shorter period of time, typically less than a quarter of second. Weak link on these is the relay that releases connection to start capacitor when start winding voltage rises after startup.
View attachment 147318

Softstarter is a triac based 'light dimmer' that effectively ramps up the AC voltage for the startup period. Done alone, it reduces the start up surge current, but it lengthens the startup time period. Triacs have about 1.5-2 volts drop when fully on, so if left in circuit they require a large heat sink.

Combining both functions gives startup torque boost and voltage ramping current reduction.

There is a relay that bypasses the Easystart triac device after startup so it does not carry the run current through the triac that would generate a lot of heating of the triac.

Unit is bypassed after the start up period, so there is no effect on run current.

Weak link is the electrolytic based, large uF value startup capacitor. It is no different than start capacitor used on water pumps and air compressors that usually have a centrifugal switch that takes the starter capacitor out of circuit after motor spins up to running rpm's.

These black plastic encased electrolytic paste based capacitors are not as reliable as a foil based aluminum container run capacitors. Their electrolyte will dry out over time, reducing their capacitance. This reduces the torque boost they provide, and no longer provides optimum trained startup cycling.

With the 'Blue' BT version Easystart, you can keep an eye on startup surge current on phone app. If you see it start to creep up over year or two of use it is likely due to starter capacitor degradation.

It is a good idea to buy a spare start capacitor (<$20) to have on hand for replacement. Easy to change out starter capacitor. It has spade lug wire connections to capacitor terminal lugs. Will need a new tie-wrap strap to hold capacitor in place.

Recommended Start Capacitor value.
Capacitors
72-86MFD - Up to 12K BTU A/C
88-106MFD - 13-23K BTU A/C
108-130MFD - 24-36K BTU A/C (use ASY-368 Easystart)
189-227MFD - 37-48K BTU A/C (use ASY-368 Easystart)
270-324MFD - 49-72K BTU A/C (use ASY-368 Easystart)

115VAC applications can use 250V or 330V rated start capacitors.
230VAC applications must use 330V or 440V rated start capacitors.


View attachment 147315
Click to expand...
Thanks a lot for this really detailed and very useful information!

I will follow your advice and would like to buy a spare one.
 
fmeili1 said:
Over the 5 learning cycles the inrush decreased with these steps (the first value is without micro-air): 162A / 47.1A / 42.2A / 33.9A / 33.5A
Btw., the runtime amps reduced from 17A to 15 A (but I don't know if it has to do with the micro-air or if it's a coincident)

This is an unbelievable reduction of factor 4.8! That's incredible and will hopefully help to increase the lifetime of the inverters AND the compressor motor. There are also two other positive side effects. The start of the compressor is now very silent instead of the previous loud "bang" when it starts and the lights don't flicker anymore (even when connected with the grid).
Click to expand...
In talking to the retailer I bought the unit from, he said there's no reason for lower amp while running, nor any noise reduction. I've seen both in two installations. I had hoped to measure db, but for a bunch of reasons didn't get to do it. I'm not talking about the initial start up noise level, but actual running noise level.
 
EasyStart has a bypass relay after startup period so it has no effect on run current.

An air conditioner compressor load is effected by temperature and inside humidity. Load on compressor runs from about 98% at maximum BTU capability down to less than 50% when cooler outdoor/indoor temps and humidity is removed of indoors.

If you want to believe there is a reduction in run current, you can justify the belief if you watch the run current long enough. Nothing to do with the EasyStart however.

There is typically a lower startup period noise as the stress on compressor during startup is greatly reduced.
 
Last edited:
Strangely I've seen tons of people measuring reduced run current after installing one.
 
RCinFLA said:
EasyStart, and like units, are a combination hard-start and soft start functions.

Hardstart kits just parallels a large value capacitor to run capacitor during the startup period. It provides a close to 90 deg phase shift to the start winding of motor during the highly inductive startup period, increasing the motor torque. It actually increases startup current a bit but it lasts for a shorter period of time, typically less than a quarter of second. Weak link on these is the relay that releases connection to start capacitor when start winding voltage rises after startup.
View attachment 147318

Softstarter is a triac based 'light dimmer' that effectively ramps up the AC voltage for the startup period. Done alone, it reduces the start up surge current, but it lengthens the startup time period. Triacs have about 1.5-2 volts drop when fully on, so if left in circuit they require a large heat sink.

Combining both functions gives startup torque boost and voltage ramping current reduction.

There is a relay that bypasses the Easystart triac device after startup so it does not carry the run current through the triac that would generate a lot of heating of the triac.

Unit is bypassed after the start up period, so there is no effect on run current.

Weak link is the electrolytic based, large uF value startup capacitor. It is no different than start capacitor used on water pumps and air compressors that usually have a centrifugal switch that takes the starter capacitor out of circuit after motor spins up to running rpm's.

These black plastic encased electrolytic paste based capacitors are not as reliable as a foil based aluminum container run capacitors. Their electrolyte will dry out over time, reducing their capacitance. This reduces the torque boost they provide, and no longer provides optimum trained startup cycling.

With the 'Blue' BT version Easystart, you can keep an eye on startup surge current on phone app. If you see it start to creep up over year or two of use it is likely due to starter capacitor degradation.

It is a good idea to buy a spare start capacitor (<$20) to have on hand for replacement. Easy to change out starter capacitor. It has spade lug wire connections to capacitor terminal lugs. Will need a new tie-wrap strap to hold capacitor in place.

Recommended Start Capacitor value.
Capacitors
72-86MFD - Up to 12K BTU A/C
88-106MFD - 13-23K BTU A/C
108-130MFD - 24-36K BTU A/C (use ASY-368 Easystart)
189-227MFD - 37-48K BTU A/C (use ASY-368 Easystart)
270-324MFD - 49-72K BTU A/C (use ASY-368 Easystart)

115VAC applications can use 250V or 330V rated start capacitors.
230VAC applications must use 330V or 440V rated start capacitors.


View attachment 147315
Click to expand...
Thanks for that detailed information!


I swear that it reduces running current but maybe that’s wishful thinking.
 
Last edited:
RCinFLA said:
EasyStart has a bypass relay after startup period so it has no effect on run current.
Click to expand...
I wish I had spent a little more time recording the data... but I swear there was a reduction in run current immediately after the installation. Even the retailer stated exactly what you wrote... it's no longer part of the system once it's running. Maybe it's wishful thinking...
 
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