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That was my bad key board auto corrected to the 30 amp TR

The new xs is 50amp

Indeed, utilizing a higher amperage rating is preferable in this scenario. Considering the 50 amp DC to DC conversion and the 25 feet run, I opted for 4 AWG cables. The price difference between 4 AWG and 6 AWG was negligible.

Hello everyone. I was in the process of connecting our new DC-to-DC charger, the Orion xs Smart 12/12-50A. One of the advertised features was its compatibility with 4 AWG (25 mm²) cables. However, I encountered a challenge when attempting to insert all the copper strands into the designated hole...

Thanks for the input

Ty

I just switch over my system to victron solar controller and lynk distributor and a new battery. I was doing some work this morning, so shut off my bluesea 6006, I always check for power and yes volts coming through, is this because the solar controller is feeding the battery? So I should turn...

Anyone seen these? Only available in the UK, been watching a gentleman on YouTube with a van using them near the arctic. https://roamer.com/

Will do, just waiting for connectors for my solar.

Have not tested, negative ground from van battery to common neg busbar.

We thank you all for the input and added info from you guys.

I know, just didn't want tighten everything then have to take it apart again. ? Good eye. Much appreciated.

I know all lines are loose, and yes to pre charge. Ty

I routed it under the table top to avoid the wires from crossing. It goes to the solar controller negative. That's 2/0 on the battery, from main battery fuse to positive fuse block is 2/0, and also 2/0 to the inverter negative is 2/0 to the shunt to the bus bar and 2/0 to the inverter...

Hello John Frum: Do you mind taking a look at our revamped (hopefully final) electrical system in our van. We are using two 100 A Renegy Lithium Smart Batteries. We are using a 250Amp fuse at the battery, a 250 A to the inverter, 60A fuse going to fuse box, 60 A going to the solar controller...

Yes, I did forget the shunt, but I have one available. The only thing running off the inverter would be the water heater with 1440 W. The fuse block is well under 50. We bought the 2000W inverter to have for the future if upgrade is needed. Would we be ok for our current scenario with our 200...

No no I put it out there because I want my wife and I and dog to be safe. I love construction criticism. Sometimes the written word gets taken the wrong way. ? All very much appreciated.

I know I didn't mention but, just above the battery is a breaker for the solar, I just haven't hooked the out cables to charge controller, we will take all info into our rebuild. Thank you

Wow, thank you, that's a lot of info and we will go over it all and let you take a look. Working on kitchen cabinets now. Once again much appreciated.

Thank you lots to go over

That's a MRBF block, stud has no power untill a fuse is dropped in. All ready have a 200 amp fuse to inverter, and the other is a 80 amp to fuse block, the other stud is empty, because it can not exceed 300 Amps, I'm using 280 of this amps

I'm not using a common positive buss bar, it's a MBRF fuse holder, and can't exceed 300 Amps, I have 280 on it now, that why it's hooked to the battery, but yes I need a breaker.

OK, I see what you're saying, why not direct to the battery?

Good idea, I will add.

Yes, I know, just setting this up, it's been a slow build because of the weather here in Maine.(no garage) and wasn't sure about leaving then electronics out in the cold, so I've been taking them in after figuring out the placement. Good eye. Ty

I see the mistake on the 60 amp to the controller, it should be placed closer to the controller then to battery. I will fix that. Inverter will only be running a small water heater. 2/0 cable was used. Thank you, I'm learning.

The one closest to battery terminal is 200 the other is 60 going to charge controller.

The one closest to battery terminal is 200 the other is 60 going to charge controller.

Hello, just finished our electric, (solar cables not hooked up to charge controller yet) , looking for someone to take a look. Ty

Combo

I just opened the box and looking at the instructions on fuse recommendation, seems the booklet has 65 amp for the out and 75amp for the in, then there's the supplemental page, says 60 amp for the out on controller, which they supply, and no In fuse mentioned or pictured. I'm using a 60 amp at...

Are renogy smart lithium batteries stackable (100ah), I can find anything on the web. Ty

That's what we thought thanks

We're using a renogy 50 amp DC/DC MPPT, should the cable be fused/breaker at both ends, van batteries and solar controller?