diy solar

diy solar

18kpv Issues

I am not running closed loop. I use solar assistant to monitor batteries. I have 6 Jakipers and 4 SOK's. 4/0 from ea rack.

The difference from grid to inverter is about 20' of 2 gauge.

I'm running a older firmware and AC is starting no problem right now with colder temps. The 1919 was doing the start and then stop. When it's running it is 10.7- 12 amps.

Yeah I'm surprised how low your AC start is. Have never seen one that low in all the video installs on 4t units I have watched. Usually in the mid 30's. I know mine is 120 amps without a soft start.

What's with the 36 faults?

I never really looked that hard. I'd bet 1/2 that number was when I first installed the thing, screwing around. I've had some battery issues that caused problems likely some there. I had a power dance a couple of times, and my transfer switch gave out a while back. Number of odds and ends shuffling around power, and overload oopsies tossing a breaker open. Pretty stable now that I have it all figured out.

368-72
 
To be fair I do know of one other user that is also having problems running their AC with an 18K but theirs happens to be a very old unit.
The issue also does not show up until there is over 7/8 KW of load in total, like yours not a startup issue but a run issue.
 
Hi Dyotat100. I run the Micro Air ASY-368-X48-BLUE on my 3 Ton condenser. I also have the 18KPV inverter. My soft start reports a peak 32A start draw on my unit and it doesn't even flicker the LED lights in my home during start. 20A additional is quite a bit though so I cannot say what my setup would do with that but I wanted to let you know that I am running the 1919 firmware on my inverter.

I also read that you were going to initiate a relearn on your soft start, which I did on mine as well when I went from my pair of 6500s to the 18KPV. I didn't read where you followed up on that. Did you notice a difference after the 5 starts?
 
Nope. Still taking 42-45 amps to start and in 60's here. Just had my AC checked out and all it good. Charge is perfect.

Not sure what was up with 1919. But AC would Starr and then shut off
 
Is this a newer or older AC unit, picture of the ratings plate or unit might be useful for reference
 
I pulled my 2 6548's after running my house for 16 months to upgrade to a 18kpv. This was last Saturday. After spending all day running larger wire we get it up and running around 4:30. Took a lot longer then I thought it would for sure.

Everything seemed good. I don't remember if I tried AC that day or not. But I did start it Sunday and seemed to start fine. It was cooler in Ca so no reason to run. Then on the 31st the AC started cycling. I go pickup my son from school. When I get home I'm in the garage and the house shuts off. So now the unit won't start my 4 ton with soft start. The inverter just shuts off. I call SS and talk to one of there techs. Keeps telling me I'm over loading the unit because the last start I got was 57 amps for AC through the Bluetooth on my soft start. Saying it is 50 amp output max.

So I give up and I post on forum and Markus from SS hits me up and says DM and I will check your inverter. So turns out my firmware was not up to date and he updated it. Now the unit will start the AC but I'm getting huge surge drawing down every light. I'm not talking a flicker. It's like someone is turning switch off and on. So it eventually burned up one ceiling fan remote.

So next day I decide to replace my start capacitor because we think it is out of spec and that could be causing the higher AC starting amps. But after watching and searching I realize that it's probably not going to do anything. It was within specs.

So I get a capacitor the next morning. It doesn't change anything. I also changed out the start contactor because it seemed like it wasn't holding sometimes. I was trying anything I could to try and solve the AC issue. After the changes it's hit or miss now if the inverter will start the AC.

So now I decide to replace my soft start with same one SS sells just so can't say there is your problem. Another wasted $290 for no change. I then put back my easy start because it has Bluetooth and tells you last startup amps. This was all Friday.

Strange thing is I'm fnding that it keeps switching the off grid button to off. Also I have my charge set at 120 amps to charge my 10 batteries. Mid day I notice it was charging at one 150 amps. So I go to adjust it and I find it at 515 amps. Thought it was strange and reset it to 120 amps.

So I hit up Markus again saying I'm done and going to call in and ask for a RA. His response is I keep telling you you have a issue. Well all I did was remove 2 working inverters and replaced them with what was suppose to be a $6000 upgrade. I have told him over and over that the 2 6548's ran it fine and never shut down in 16 months.

So I'm lying in bed waiting to see if I get a response and my house shuts down. I get up and go to inverter. It's acting like it was just reset. It comes back online and I'm scratching my head now.

So now I'm going through the settings to see what could have done it. I was laying in bed and draw was below 500w. I again find the charge amps at 515 amps. This time I take a pic. Then I find the discharge at 515 amp. I reset it to 250 amps. Then out of curiosity I try to put the 515 amps back in. Not possible. Error 3 comes up. So you can't even put 515 in either spot. So how is it getting there? Also find off grid switched off


So yesterday I asked to go to level 2 tech support.

Today it won't even start my ac and I had to wire the AC to grid power to run it.

Inverter seems like it won't take a surge to start a load that exceeds 50 amps
That’s why I don’t even attempt to run old school non variable speed a/c compressors on HF inverters… 50+ amps to start an AC?!, that’s just ridiculous to me. I cut my old machines out and split the entire house before I even went solar, max surge is 15amps on the 24000 btu multi head units, cruises at 6 amps. I know my comment doesn’t help you but I’m just glad im not in the club with all you guys spinning these big dirty pumps

4AD6A353-BB76-4A5B-8D13-2C6C3EB5E637.jpeg
 
Here you go
(PLATE INFO)

2010 should be modern enough to not cause major problems, but things do get more cantankerous as they get older. I had to replace my circa 2008 a little over a year ago; I wasn't ready to re-do everything, my unit is a roof mounted package unit, not like I can just tear it off and put in mini-splits easily. You can get variable speed standard-split units, that work just like mini's for starting, they are proud of them. I work indirectly for Carrier, that is some serious coin for those 4.

Did the re-learn change anything?
 
(PLATE INFO)

2010 should be modern enough to not cause major problems, but things do get more cantankerous as they get older. I had to replace my circa 2008 a little over a year ago; I wasn't ready to re-do everything, my unit is a roof mounted package unit, not like I can just tear it off and put in mini-splits easily. You can get variable speed standard-split units, that work just like mini's for starting, they are proud of them. I work indirectly for Carrier, that is some serious coin for those 4.

Did the re-learn change anything?
I installed a new Micro Air today. The start amps are 32-33 amps now. But the light show I get everytime it starts is not good. So I'm not sure what is up but when I was on 1312 I use to get big blink on a hard start. Now I have 10-15 amp less hit and the lights flashing is terrible
 

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How did it do 94 amps? If that's the case my inverter is the problem. It won't start anything over 62 amps
 
Did we replace your inverter already I can’t remember and the surge was 147 amps if you look at the bottom of the meter
No I'm still fighting same inverter you changed firmware on in October. Would shut off the whole house trying to start AC

So at 147 I really have a POS then
 
No I'm still fighting same inverter you changed firmware on in October. Would shut off the whole house trying to start AC

So at 147 I really have a POS then
I will have someone contact you for a RMA. I want to personally test your inverter when it comes in as well I can post the results here if you are ok with that. After you get a new replacement and this problems is still going on what would you suggest the problem is at that point?
 
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