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Cheap 4kwh LiFePO4 batteries from Battery Hookup

I still haven’t gotten my batteries yet, nor any updates... anybody else?

I purchased mine on Nov 8th. If they are being shipped from Tech Direct in SoCal, I would have expected delivery before now, as I am located just north of Sacramento. ????
 
I ordered via TechDirect. Ordered Nov. 12th got them about 6 days later. SoCAL to NorCAL. Wanting MORE!
 
I still haven’t gotten my batteries yet, nor any updates... anybody else?
[/QUO

When I was there, very busy, Very friendly, family-run,, Response time is a weak link in the business. I watched them when they get a chance to sit they get a ton of emails, I have been waiting over two weeks for a response for my BYD concerns (quality) I know they are 5 stars if there is a problem.. just getting to it. They could charge a lot more, hire more people to answer everyone's emails. I am content with the Status Quo. That word Quo is used a lot these days LoL
 
Ordered mine 11 Nov., received this morning after a call from the delivery driver.[ 6 Dec. } Looking at the waybill it said Techdirectclub, Chatsworth, Calif. had shipped on the 19 Nov. and was due for delivery on 29 Nov. ,today being the 6th of Dec. they are a bit slow on the delivery end. But I'm happy. they checked in at 23.2 v, 23 v, 23 v, and 22.9 v. Great for bottom balancing. I never received any calls from Battery Hookup after three calls to them. I'm sure they are busy than bees. Be patient is all I can say. RLK
 
I am very glad that more forum members are reporting receiving their BYD batteries. I ordered my four batteries Friday Nov. 15 and took delivery from FEDEX Thursday Nov. 21. They came directly from Bryan at BatteryHookup. I am looking forward to the future communications among us as we help other operationalize these batteries into home solar power plants.
I believe i have found another solution to the problem of the slimmer than customary battery posts. We have the solution from David Poz. KBWaldron is working on his solution. Here is mine. I ordered another type of lead battery post shim --> www.amzn.com/B07CKYXQNJ Homyl 2x Battery Terminal Post Adjusters . These adjusters were thick enough that I no longer needed to use the copper pipe adjuster that I had made earlier. Now both the battery clamp and the adjuster are made of lead and securely tighten onto the BYD battery post so that it is impossible to turn the battery post by hand anymore. I am happy with this solution but eager to see what others come up with.
Chris, the Green Mountain DIY Guy, has also released a video on Nov. 23 on Youtube showing off the three BYD batteries he ordered and received from BatteryHookup -->
. He promises to make a series showing how he is making these batteries operational.
 
All the updates that I've gotten, I had to call to get. Email has not been effective. They have been pleasant and helpful when I have been able to get them on the phone. My timeline: Ordered on 11/14. They left CA on 11/25. The freight forwarder called me today to schedule a delivery time for tomorrow AM. The shipper is listed as Tech Direct Inc, not Battery Hookup, interestingly. I over-estimated my need. If anyone near West TN is interested in one or more, let me know.

Edit: They arrived on 12/5 in good physical shape.
I might be interested in buying 2 more of these depending upon your price and my testing of the ones I have. I am in Asheville NC. Where are you?
 
Just and FYI, I would NOT use the traces on the long PCB(s), attach wires direct as needed in same method as the "VT" sensors, use screw or rivet.
Picasso: way over my head. Can you explain a bit more what you are talking about?
 
Picasso: way over my head. Can you explain a bit more what you are talking about?
He is saying it is best to attach your own balance leads to the individual cells, not rely on the traces in the built in board, since some have turned up damaged, so obviously they are weak traces.
 
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Picasso: way over my head. Can you explain a bit more what you are talking about?
The BYDs have the remnants of a proprietary BMS/BMU system inside them. Part of that are long thin circuit boards that run the length of the batteries making connections to each cell. He is suggesting not relying on these to simplify BMS connections and to make more secure connections with proper lead wires.

I am probably going to rip all of that stuff out of these batteries leaving just the cells, bus bars, and terminals. I may give that a while to see if anyone is able to figure out how to talk to these batteries.
 
Thanks Picasso, Supervstech, and Refinished. This suggestion makes a lot of sense to me and is timely. Last night I discovered that the Cell number 1 positive trace on the installed BMS circuit board on one of my four batteries was detached and broken causing me not to get a voltage reading on it. The hanging loose strand was very very very thin indeed. So I fully support the view expressed above to bypass the installed BMS circuit board and use decent size wire to directly make the connections. I looked more closely and found that each bus bar has at least one usually more holes drilled in it that could presumably be used as wire attachment points.
So it looks like we are moving forward now with the BMS and its wiring harness. In opening this thread, Will suggested --> Click here for a 200 amp Common Port 8S Daly BMS (if you need more than 200 amps, use a 500 amp relay, and trigger it with this bms) . Is this the concensus choice? or is there more to consider before settling in on which particular BMS we will be using?
Edited: On Oct 3 2019, Will Prowse published this under the BMS thread on the forum: "Considering the likelihood of over voltage situation from most high quality mppt, and the chance of matched LiFePO4 cells going out of balance is rare (and BMS will correct for cell drift over time), and that LiFePO4 can be over charged to 4.2v per cell before electrolyte degradation... I would say its safe to connect mppt directly to the battery bank, and bypass the BMS entirely. We have been doing it this way for years, but people still want to use a BMS." He suggests connecting the BMS to the load side of the circuit. Thoughts?
 
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Thanks Picasso, Supervstech, and Refinished. This suggestion makes a lot of sense to me and is timely. Last night I discovered that the Cell number 1 positive trace on the installed BMS circuit board on one of my four batteries was detached and broken causing me not to get a voltage reading on it. The hanging loose strand was very very very thin indeed. So I fully support the view expressed above to bypass the installed BMS circuit board and use decent size wire to directly make the connections. I looked more closely and found that each bus bar has at least one usually more holes drilled in it that could presumably be used as wire attachment points.
So it looks like we are moving forward now with the BMS and its wiring harness. In opening this thread, Will suggested --> Click here for a 200 amp Common Port 8S Daly BMS (if you need more than 200 amps, use a 500 amp relay, and trigger it with this bms) . Is this the concensus choice? or is there more to consider before settling in on which particular BMS we will be using?
Edited: On Oct 3 2019, Will Prowse published this under the BMS thread on the forum: "Considering the likelihood of over voltage situation from most high quality mppt, and the chance of matched LiFePO4 cells going out of balance is rare (and BMS will correct for cell drift over time), and that LiFePO4 can be over charged to 4.2v per cell before electrolyte degradation... I would say its safe to connect mppt directly to the battery bank, and bypass the BMS entirely. We have been doing it this way for years, but people still want to use a BMS." He suggests connecting the BMS to the load side of the circuit. Thoughts?
I brought this up before. (different category) I received no replies. I considered a balance lead and a monitor. Balance on the bottom and use the MPPT settings to maintain the batteries. I would set up 48 to 56v to extend the life of the batteries. I also still consider a BMS setup.
 
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i noticed that,, how many will think about it :) looks like they have a lot
 
I am probably going to rip all of that stuff out of these batteries leaving just the cells, bus bars, and terminals. I may give that a while to see if anyone is able to figure out how to talk to these batteries.

I got it setup on the bench working out the CAN now, Seen two versions of this BMS, David Poz sent me the other version to look at THANKS. We can at the least use it for display. 12v power in and CAN high / low.

For my units I am removing the - bus bar around the pack cutting the + side off and drilling it to be like the - side. Will take a pic when I get a chance. Using parts from - bus bar for + side aka nutts and bolts. I will cut up some of the bus bar to bolt on.


I am undecided in running a balancing BMS still seeing how things behave, my 4 units all matched in cell voltage and overall voltage received.
 

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I got it setup on the bench working out the CAN now, Seen two versions of this BMS, David Poz sent me the other version to look at THANKS. We can at the least use it for display.

For my units I am removing the - bus bar around the pack cutting the + side off and drilling it to be like the - side. Will take a pic when I get a chance.
Is it likely that we will be able to use the temperature sensors?
 
I got it setup on the bench working out the CAN now, Seen two versions of this BMS, David Poz sent me the other version to look at THANKS. We can at the least use it for display. 12v power in and CAN high / low.

For my units I am removing the - bus bar around the pack cutting the + side off and drilling it to be like the - side. Will take a pic when I get a chance. Using parts from - bus bar for + side aka nutts and bolts. I will cut up some of the bus bar to bolt on.


I am undecided in running a balancing BMS still seeing how things behave, my 4 units all matched in cell voltage and overall voltage received.
Great minds think alike, getting rid of the posts and connecting to the side prefer bolts to sleeve. Not sure if I am going to leave the post, or cut them off at the corner. Also is the neg- backplate it looks like it also keeps the battery together. reason I mention that it goes to a narrow plate on the side. that is 1/3rd the size!!! Drilled out all the old bms connectors going to rivot in my own.
Also with Battery hookup selling a lot more of these right now, tempting, 12 hour drive, screw that, maybe in the spring or when they get more
With the flood of BYD batteries we should see some interesting Ideas I hope :cool:
 

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