houseofancients
Solar Wizard
and to add, how are your connections done to your inverters/busbars ?Were they all top balanced together prior to putting them in parallel as 48 volt batteries?
and to add, how are your connections done to your inverters/busbars ?Were they all top balanced together prior to putting them in parallel as 48 volt batteries?
Yes they were. They were assembled in China. Seplos shipped the box to my cell supplier who did the top balance, assembled them and shipped the packs to me.Were they all top balanced together prior to putting them in parallel as 48 volt batteries?
Yes, Bus bars.and to add, how are your connections done to your inverters/busbars ?
But how are they connected?Yes, Bus bars
Thats good that you trust your supplier. I would have done it myself to be sure.Yes they were. They were assembled in China. Seplos shipped the box to my cell supplier who did the top balance, assembled them and shipped the packs to me.
with the exception of the busbars and compression/fixation it isnt all that important.Hi,
I started to assemble my Mason DIY 280 today, and I'm not sure about the torque for the different parts.
On the seplos webwite, I saw this page : https://www.seplos.com/mason-280-51-2v-280ah-Lithium-battery-pack-assembling-guide.html
With some numbers, for exemple "Set the torque index of the electric screwdriver to 3", or with specific Nm for exemple "Set the torque index to 8-9 Nm"
In the video guide (www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-w3F7GhYJE), the guy from seplos says numbers, for exemple : "set the torque to 7" but it's specific for his screwdriver no ?
For exemple, my electric screwdriver is rated up to 30nm and numbers I can set on it are between 1 and 10, so I don't think it's the torque in nm.
Do you know were I can find the torque values ? Or it's not important except for the busbar (I saw 5 or 6 Nm on seplos docs), and for the orange busbar on the BMS at 7Nm ?
Hi,
I started to assemble my Mason DIY 280 today, and I'm not sure about the torque for the different parts.
On the seplos webwite, I saw this page : https://www.seplos.com/mason-280-51-2v-280ah-Lithium-battery-pack-assembling-guide.html
With some numbers, for exemple "Set the torque index of the electric screwdriver to 3", or with specific Nm for exemple "Set the torque index to 8-9 Nm"
In the video guide (www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-w3F7GhYJE), the guy from seplos says numbers, for exemple : "set the torque to 7" but it's specific for his screwdriver no ?
For exemple, my electric screwdriver is rated up to 30nm and numbers I can set on it are between 1 and 10, so I don't think it's the torque in nm.
Do you know were I can find the torque values ? Or it's not important except for the busbar (I saw 5 or 6 Nm on seplos docs), and for the orange busbar on the BMS at 7Nm ?
Torque is specified by the size and material of the fastener. A 6mm stainless bolt should have 8.7 Nm (77 in-lbs) of torque, assuming a clean, dry thread. A lubricated thread requires less torque.Do you know were I can find the torque values ?
you put that much torque on a cellstud, you'll be breaking it off, and can throw away your cellTorque is specified by the size and material of the fastener. A 6mm stainless bolt should have 8.7 Nm (77 in-lbs) of torque, assuming a clean, dry thread. A lubricated thread requires less torque.
https://crafter.fastenal.com/static-assets/pdfs/Torque_of_Metric_Stainless_Steel.pdf
You are suggesting that 8.7 Nm is *not* the correct torque for a 6mm stainless bolt? Please provide your torque table.you put that much torque on a cellstud, you'll be breaking it off, and can throw away your cell
i am stating that if you put that much torque on the soft aluminium battery studs, they will break off or strip..You are suggesting that 8.7 Nm is *not* the correct torque for a 6mm stainless bolt? Please provide your torque table.
Totally agree with @houseofancients. I use 4-5nm tops with the 280ah cells. That also is what Andy at off grid garage uses.i am stating that if you put that much torque on the soft aluminium battery studs, they will break off or strip..
do a forum search
they are, and soft aluminium.I will admit that I don't have those terminals, but every photo I have seen here appears to show thread inserts in the terminals. Are they indeed 6mm?
I did NOT use the aluminum busbars, as they were too wide, and almost contacted the center metal bar. I used the tinned copper busbars that came with my cells.Thank you for all the replies and advices. I torqued the BMS busbars at 7 Nm and the cells busbars at 5 Nm
I torqued the compression plate at 9 Nm and the rest manually, like houseofancients said it's less important.
I also watched the Andy's video and saw he didn't put the copper washers between the cells terminals and the busbars.
When I assembled the battery, I put them, but now I think it was maybe not a good idea, as the terminals and seplos busbars are in aluminium, what is the goal to had copper beetween ?
I also "cleaned" cells terminals with a 600 sand paper (using a technique I saw on a "Ray builds cool stuff" video) and sand the part of the aluminium busbars in contact with the copper washer.
I also added MG847 paste between cell terminal and copper washer (but not between copper washer and aluminium busbars)
Do you know why Seplos choose aluminium busbars ?
After reading lot's of threads and comments under Andy's video, I think it maybe not a good idea to keep aluminium busbars / copper washers
I still have the tinted copper busbars delivered with my Docan's cells.
What do you advice me to do for good and long lasting connections ?
1) Keep it like that (Seplos aluminium busbars + Seplos copper washers on cell terminals)
2) Replace aluminium busbar by Docan's tinted copper busbars (and keep or remove copper washers ?)
3) Other solutions ?