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House burned down

The vaporized fuses used to be Littlefuse CCMR 15, rated "600 VAC or less " no DC rating at all. This was in my shop and happened during destructive FAFO testing of improper parts. The fuses were installed in a surplus three phase Allen Bradley 1492-FB3C30 fuse holder with indicators. It's indicators weren't needed this time to let me know the fuses had failed. This experiment may suggest using wrong fuses for the wrong application with no enclosure might cause infinite more harm than any good. And a reminder that rated enclosures are a good idea...

I see your point, good info.

These fuses ? Still the wrong ones but it appears they do have a DC rating if that is them.
 

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no you are not, i have myself mega fuses installed but rated for 70v
Am I ok with the 58 volt fuses?
These say: 125A/58V for 48V
And in have 48v100ah Sungold Wall batteries, info it says:

Maximum cut-off voltage for charging 57.6

Recommended charging 54.5

I’ve never seen the voltage go over 55

Am I ok with these fuses?
 
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Am I ok with the 58 volt fuses?
Honestly, I had 5 of the 58V-rated ones (clear package) and I thought they were fine, until this House Burned Down thread.
The OP appeared to have them, so I upgraded to the 70v MEGA.
2.5 kA AIC at 70v (littelfuse sf51) is better than 1 kA AIC at 58v (littelfuse bf2)

I would never use MEGA for a battery, just for inverters and MPPTs.
 
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Honestly, I had 5 of the 58V-rated ones (clear package) and I thought they were fine, until this House Burned Down thread.
The OP appeared to have them, so I upgraded to the 70v MEGA.
2.5 kA AIC at 70v (littelfuse sf51) is better than 1 kA at 58v (littelfuse bf2)

I would never use MEGA for a battery, just for inverters and MPPTs.
Honestly, I had 5 of the 58V-rated ones (clear package) and I thought they were fine, until this House Burned Down thread.
The OP appeared to have them, so I upgraded to the 70v MEGA.
2.5 kA AIC at 70v (littelfuse sf51) is better than 1 kA AIC at 58v (littelfuse bf2)

I would never use MEGA for a battery, just for inverters and MPPTs.
I am still alittle confused by all this? You have the same ones I do? That’s what signature solar recommended for my victron buss. I am surprised they are selling them if they are bad. I called my friend who does solar and ask him and all he said was, “yes those are fine”. I just don’t know. I hate to have to tear all this out and rebuild with Class T Victron Buss, guess I will at some point.
Have to do that one day. I guess I am going to just go ahead and install these for now with a plan to upgrade. I am getting so much conflicting info it’s confusing
 
I am still alittle confused by all this? You have the same ones I do? That’s what signature solar recommended for my victron buss. I am surprised they are selling them if they are bad.
The 58V-rated ones are not bad, they meet the specifications Littelfuse or Victron publish.
I’m looking for extra protection, and willing to spend money for additional peace of mind.
The 70V rated fuses give me that.

The question isn’t will they work, because they will.
The question is, will they arc and catch fire in extreme cases?

I called my friend who does solar and ask him and all he said was, “yes those are fine”. I just don’t know. I hate to have to tear all this out and rebuild with Class T Victron Buss, guess I will at some point.
Have to do that one day. I guess I am going to just go ahead and instally these. I am getting so much conflicting info it’s confusing
When it comes to fuses, better to have something than nothing, for sure.
 
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The 58V-rated ones are not bad, they meet the specifications Littelfuse or Victron publish.
I’m looking for extra protection, and willing to spend money for additional peace of mind.

The question isn’t will they work, because they will.
The question is, will they arc and catch fire in extreme cases?


When it comes to fuses, better to have something than nothing, for sure.

The 58V-rated ones are not bad, they meet the specifications Littelfuse or Victron publish.
I’m looking for extra protection, and willing to spend money for additional peace of mind.
The 70V rated fuses give me that.

The question isn’t will they work, because they will.
The question is, will they arc and catch fire in extreme cases?


When it comes to fuses, better to have something than nothing, for sure.
Thanks that makes sense. I will run this awhile with plans to upgrade to the class t victron buss
 
The major problem parallel fuses they give you about 2x the amp rating.
You stll need to fuse the inverter and (fuse -breaker charge controller on battery side if not an all in one inverter.)

Another Fuse or breaker needs to be here TOO. MOST MANUFACTURERS RECOMMEND IT..
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This is the fuse used in a battery pack on alibaba
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There are 4 things dislike about OP install. These lock nuts have been found to be huge no no for me by years of experience. My experience. Nylon type locking nuts when used in single application in electrical can lock down and seem tight but connection is not 100% tight. Best practice use washers and lock washers under regular nuts. We had to take time away from normal locomotive maintenance to replace fleet of locomotive terminal board lock nuts. They had also factory stacked the big leads between nuts. They had been failing left and right out on the rail pulling freight. Best practice don’t do it. Best- Don’t use single nylon lock nuts and do not stack with steel nut sandwich.

Not sure how this is actually stacked but no big leads should ever be stacked and sandwiched between other nuts. Steel gets hot not as conductive. Again years of experience. There are electrical spacers for sandwiching lugs. Best practice is avoid it. Again not 100% sure the big lead is sandwich.. signal wires small wires no basic draw might be alright - done it …. Thread engagement is important too. I hope there are washers under all nuts on right …they need to be bigger for clamp force. My opinion. My experience. Signal - or whatever small wire should been put with other small wires.
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I watched a video… best part was guy saying “2x times a year go around check all connections” do inspections. Don’t remember who it was in video. Sage Advice. We have to have caution not fear. We learn everyday. Make a log book of your checks.

This is not 100% you either deal with it or accept something else as more safe. Sorry nothing is 100% safe. Storage engery is dangerous. The fuse might not have been the source of problems the OP reported fireman said. “That fireman could have been wrong”
Normally fuses don’t just pop. Normally. If not rated right get nuisance pops.
 
Fiddle time limited - only time for pictures and a couple of measurements with the 1035

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Turns out I do have a Mega fuse.


The Chints are HUGE compared to the Class T fuses but they have much higher AIC.
This is the link


This is the removal handle


Resistances in order

200a Chint - 0.35 mohm
300a Class T - 0.22 mohm
200a Class T - 0.88 mohm
125a Chint - 0.20 mohm
100a Mega - 0.50 mohm
200a Breaker - 1.48 mohm - brand is "Red Wolf" off amazon


All measurements taken with 4 wire leads on the ends of the actual fuse. I did measure some of the resistance on the mounts end to end with the fuse but didn't record the reading.

My plan is to run as many amps as I can put through them with a clamp meter to monitor and the 1035+ meter to measure the resistance and how it changes over time.

And if I can find a 3rd set of hands I'll also use the trusty Fluke to measure voltage drop across the fuses.


The 1035 is a mico-ohm meter that measures resistance with a 1kh sine wave verse the standard straight DC current measured by a voltage divider network.


I won't blow the Class T fuses, they are just to spendy, but I will blow the anl, mega, and chints to see how they work out.

I'll use a ceramic heater with fan and a heat gun as loads to blowthe fuses. I have a 2000w inverter and a 1200va victron and will probably have to put both on a bus bar to make it work. I do also have the victron smart shunt to measure the current as well and it should retain the graph as I turn things on.


Will draw up a diagram of what I am doing and post.


Also, I think after this post I will either put the results in a Resource or a separate post by itself.


Got a new toy to measure temps with -- waiting on an arm to hold the thing steady on my work bench. Then I will test some fuse resistances before and while current is running through them.

The heatgun is the hot spot at the top, that is a MRBF fuse (3), the lug connected to the battery (1) , the victron temp sensor for the shunt (2).

Amazingly vivid.

flir.jpgvictron.jpg
 
Got a new toy to measure temps with -- waiting on an arm to hold the thing steady on my work bench. Then I will test some fuse resistances before and while current is running through them.

The heatgun is the hot spot at the top, that is a MRBF fuse (3), the lug connected to the battery (1) , the victron temp sensor for the shunt (2).

Amazingly vivid.

View attachment 215579View attachment 215580
Where did you get the new toy.
Few years back there were free phone apps. Last looked the apps were no longer there for free. The FLIR The actual thermal cameras use to be expensive….but prices have dropped. The laser temp readers use to be expensive too. FLIR app and Camera can be sync’ed with phones.
Not sure why they did away with free apps that used camera in phone. Maybe money or something else.

IMG_6493.png


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Next thing we know someone will - might invent a thermal camera monitor for these systems that send alerts via phone and or do emergency shut down. Hmmmm.
 
Where did you get the new toy.
Few years back there were free phone apps. Last looked the apps were no longer there for free. The FLIR The actual thermal cameras use to be expensive….but prices have dropped. The laser temp readers use to be expensive too. FLIR app and Camera can be sync’ed with phones.
Not sure why they did away with free apps that used camera in phone. Maybe money or something else.

View attachment 215583


View attachment 215584

Next thing we know someone will - might invent a thermal camera monitor for these systems that send alerts via phone and or do emergency shut down. Hmmmm.

FLIR 1 pro - wanted the higher resolution and extra mode.


I just happen to have an old Galaxy A7 in a drawer so I can use it when testing things as the display.

Funny they still call it FLIR (Forward looking Infrared) - Seems like calling it a thermal camera might be more accurate these days. Especially with the color overlay verse the old black and white version.

My airplane had a FLIR turret - fly along and drop it out the belly and look around - had to be changed periodically when the liquid nitrogen inside leaked out. Back early 90's it was $250k a copy and my team replaced 1 of them 4 times. Good thing we had 8ft extender cables so we could hook the new one up in the aluminum can before install.

First 2 didn't work.... third one came with sea water sloshing around in the can and the 4th one worked.
 
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FLIR 1 pro - wanted the higher resolution and extra mode.


I just happen to have an old Galaxy A7 in a drawer so I can use it when testing things as the display.

Funny they still call it FLIR (Forward looking Infrared) - Seems like calling it a thermal camera might be more accurate these days. Especially with the color overlay verse the old black and white version.

My airplane had a FLIR turret - fly along and drop it out the belly and look around - had to be changed periodically when the liquid nitrogen inside leaked out. Back early 90's it was $250k a copy and my team replaced 1 of them 4 times. Good thing we had 8ft extender cables so we could hook the new one up in the aluminum can before install.

First 2 didn't work.... third one came with sea water sloshing around in the can and the 4th one worked.


And it is going back, having to depend on an android app is causing difficulties. It won't work with my 3 year old phone.

Ordering a different one.
 
Ordering a different one.
Check out Uni-T.
I've been happy with this one I ordered back in November, no issues on my Oneplus 6T. App isn't invasive like many others I looked at. They also have some nice standalone.
Screenshot_20240515-213109.jpg
Resolution isn't as good as the FLIR pro, it's much nicer than the regular FLIR I use at work with an iPhone.
 
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you want to say fuse the cable to the inverter?
fuses are not for appliance protection
What do you think the fuses are for? Or are you saying don’t use fuses?

Let me guess you are going to say “fuses protect the wire?” I’ve seen ppl say that here. It is an incomplete statement.

Wires are sized for the load so fuses are load based on the wires - lead which are load sized. Schools started screwing ppl up by traching breaker and fuses to protect the wire. The wires are sized for the loads. Thus fuses-breakers .
Victron provided OP the instructions needed to set it up.

You either put a fuse there or you put a breaker as shown. Victron stated Fuse. Fuses are cheaper than breakers and the contacts don’t weld up. If fuses are properly sized and chosen they protect the wire and everything. The saying fuses and breakers protect the wire- lead is incorrect because of omission based on load.

Victron shows and states Inverters are suppose to have a 200 amp fuse and battery wire cable lead of sufficient cross section.

You put 6 each 200 amp fuses in parallel with the inverter and wiring then you have exceeded the manufacturer recommended 200amp fuse instructions. You now have a bus bar with 1200 amp feeding inverters that were instructed to be fused at 200 amps with lead for cross section to handle the potential load. Yes? or No?

OP added a 7th string with potential 1400amp on the dc positive buss bar

Think OP stated added correct fuses up stream. Not sure where read it. “This system operated without problems for few years.” As stated by OP

Victron also states do not put the battery cable wires in conduit. Suspect They want Free air due to heat.

TO add more some if not most inverters will have internal fusing built into them. They are trying to prevent major damage fires which will result in loss of business or law suits..
If you really want to be picky the fuses Victron wanted for inverter then proper cross section should been mounted on buss bar….then 3 leads connected to the fuses.


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