I get two power bills at my house so now I'm looking into solar.

[shadowmaker]

OP can easily fit 30 - 35 kW worth of panels on his roof. No energy conservation necessary.

Actually this is how I'd do it. It's going to cost but if you can afford it without having to eat cold oatmeal every day...

It seems to get harder and harder to have decent size solar system over your side of the pond and probably here too in the future.

OP seems to have ~16MWh consumption in July so even halving it would mean 8MWh in one month. Yes, I think OP should try to reduce his consumption over time, but it will be huge in any case.

 

[AntronX]

Power company in Las Vegas (NV Energy) still offers 1:1 net metering so now is a good time to jump into solar and get grandfathered for 20 years and not worry about batteries.

 

[740GLE]

Random question, what is there for heating?

Any chance unknown resistive heating could be fighting the AC during the peak of summer? Stupider things have happened.

Getting multiple quotes is always a good idea to sort out your comfort with the contractors.

IMO every worth while solar company’s first recommendation shouldn’t be XYZ system installed at XXX price. But more of energy audit, see where your money and 150kwhr/day is going.

But sadly many a contractor just tosses up a system and moves on to the next job.

Btw do you get a yearly gift basket from the utility? If not, shame on them!!!

 

[Bleedingblue]

And remember you get a 30% tax refund.

If the power goes out do you still want power to run critical loads?

 

[740GLE]

And remember you get a 30% tax refund.

If the power goes out do you still want power to run critical loads?

That’s assuming this person pays any taxes to begin with they seem to be doing things on a whole other level.

 

[SevenHillsResident]

And remember you get a 30% tax refund.

If the power goes out do you still want power to run critical loads?

Just so I'm clear because another member here mentioned that to me via a private message last night... the 30% tax credit is on the cost of the system? If I'm into it without batteries and related hardware for say $100,000 then my tax credit will reduce that one-time cost to $70,000, correct?

If that's the case, then adding batteries to the house might make sense since I would probably be another $30,000 into with the batteries (plus or minus, just ballparking).

V/R
Ron

 

[SevenHillsResident]

That’s assuming this person pays any taxes to begin with they seem to be doing things on a whole other level.

My tax bill could probably support a few town/villages in El Salvador where minimum wage is only like $380/month. I bring up El Salvador because I was out there last month and most of the power out there is geothermal but I also noticed a bunch of small solar farms near the airport. I wish I knew the secrets or CPA's that others use because I guess were just a bunch of chumps paying out lots of money With that being said, its the Cost of Doing Business and it's calculated into how we live.

If you ever get a chance to take a vacation and want to visit something reasonably priced, VERY safe for a few days, El Salvador is amazing country. I had no clue on how much that country has transformed over the last five years.

V/R
Ron

 

[Hedges]

Just so I'm clear because another member here mentioned that to me via a private message last night... the 30% tax credit is on the cost of the system? If I'm into it without batteries and related hardware for say $100,000 then my tax credit will reduce that one-time cost to $70,000, correct?

If that's the case, then adding batteries to the house might make sense since I would probably be another $30,000 into with the batteries (plus or minus, just ballparking).

V/R
Ron

Yes, you're just a few years late. I spent $100k and got $50k CEC rebate.

No, I was 20 years too early and paid $8/W for the system, $4/W after rebate. Grid tie only, no batteries.
You could do much better. Maybe $3/W for turnkey system, not counting batteries.

You can carry the $30k forward if it exceeds your tax bill this year (it wouldn't have mine.)

You can also add batteries in a later year and get credit on them now (newer laws, previously only got credit if PV and batteries put in together.)

Batteries will cost at least $0.05/kWh over their claimed 6000 cycle life (16 years).
Whether they give you any value depends on time of use rates. And of course power failures.
You might put in enough just for A/C in part of the house & refrigeration, not 100% of loads.

 

[dougbert]

OK.. here are the two power bill totals from March 3 through April 3. We haven't had to use the A/C much so the bills are relatively low this month at a total for $818.63.

View attachment 211285

View attachment 211286

I am trying to grasp where 4300 kwhr goes per month WITHOUT AC, like mentioned above a heater running? got water features?

Energy Audit for sure with empirical sensors

 

[AntronX]

I am trying to grasp where 4300 kwhr goes per month WITHOUT AC

It's a big house with a pool. If you count per square foot then usage is reasonable.

 

[SevenHillsResident]

It's a big house with a pool. If you count per square foot then usage is reasonable.

The pool, stoves, dryers and heaters are all gas if that makes a difference.

V/R
Ron

 

[SoggyShoes]

Just so I'm clear because another member here mentioned that to me via a private message last night... the 30% tax credit is on the cost of the system? If I'm into it without batteries and related hardware for say $100,000 then my tax credit will reduce that one-time cost to $70,000, correct?

If that's the case, then adding batteries to the house might make sense since I would probably be another $30,000 into with the batteries (plus or minus, just ballparking).

V/R
Ron

With 1:1 net metering the reason to add batteries should depend on how reliable the electricity for the grid is. The issue with using the grid as the battery is that no matter how much solar you have if the grid goes down, you have no power.

If you want to power anything when the grid goes down then you need batteries or a generator as part of your system.
If you need backup power and have natural gas or a place to have a large propane tank, you should consider a "whole house" generator with automatic transfer switch. Natural gas service tends to be more reliable than the electric grid and propane can have an indefinite shelf life if stored properly. You might need a generator for each service. Costco has a Honeywell 22KW generator that some neighbors here in the NW were getting installed for about $11,000 for everything.
If you want a battery backup, there is no better place to learn about that than this forum with lots of amazing helpful people.

 

[chrisski]

For planning prior to tax rebate:

-5 kw of panels installed $10k
-each ac draws 4 kw when running. This could be as low as 2.5 kw
-each ac will require 6-9 kw of panels to provide enough power to run it, only when the sun shines,

I am in AZ, not that different from you. My AC cycles on 20 hours in the hottest months.

I do not have net metering. Your net metering greatly benefits you. This will let you bank winter numbers to use in summer. Even your winter numbers are high and you may not have any to bank.

I think you can expect a 30% reduction on your power bill with 20 kw of panels on the roof. I don’t think you’ll have space to hide more from your neighbors.

 

[AntronX]

From looking at those 2 bills it appears annual usage is 91,000 kWh. I looked at OPs roof and it looks like at least 84 * 400w panels will fit but in various orientations for 34kW total, maybe more. According to PVwatts that's 65,000 kWh/year in LV or 71% of annual usage. I would go for maximum efficiency premium panels and install as many as feasible. Here is PVwatts for 34kW south orientation 20° tilt.

 

[Quattrohead]

The pool, stoves, dryers and heaters are all gas if that makes a difference.

V/R
Ron

Are you sure you're not providing power to the whole street?

 

[Skypower]

My suggestion is to go with a system that can adapt to almost any future option; batteries , solar, grid import& export and generator capable. That it is professional AND end user friendly as well as code compliant. Multiple (4ea ?) Sol-Ark 15 (proven) or the Eg4 18kpv inverters comes to mind. Eg4 batteries for either inverter. It’s likely your neighbors have panels that have micro inverters that make electricity for them and send what they don’t consume back to the grid….IF the power company wants it! If their utility loses power, so do they even if the panels make enough power! Yes there may be a few that have battery/solar or generator. What you probably want is a system that collects the energy during the day, stores it for the evening when the heat of the day finally makes it’s way into your house and you can run your air conditioning, cooking and lighting. It doesn’t do any good to make solar power during the part of the day if you don’t have the demand, no way to store it and the utility won’t buy it or pay what it’s worth. A battery system also lets you take power from the grid at off peak times to supplement when solar conditions are poor.
If your electrician hasn’t done this type of solar + battery installation( most haven’t), he’s probably way out of his league.
Don’t be overly optimistic about how much solar you can put on your roof. The panels should face mostly south to be economical. Also there may be some code setbacks from ridge or edges, also pipe or vents(some can be relocated). Then there’s where the rows just won’t fit right. Realistically only 40% of a typical roof is worth covering with panels. That’s why some of the first questions were, “How much land do you have”. A good installer can give you an audit with a close up inspection and see any issues, not just a AI app. Another thing to look into is improving your attic insulation if it isn’t already high performance. Zone control of your home, being able to close off areas not being used hence not needing HVAC. The reality is, that you might be able to cut back to a third or a quarter of your electric bill. So now you get to crunch the numbers on what to do to get how much back and return on investment versus expected system life. Fun

 

[SevenHillsResident]

My suggestion is to go with a system that can adapt to almost any future option; batteries , solar, grid import& export and generator capable. That it is professional AND end user friendly as well as code compliant. Multiple (4ea ?) Sol-Ark 15 (proven) or the Eg4 18kpv inverters comes to mind. Eg4 batteries for either inverter. It’s likely your neighbors have panels that have micro inverters that make electricity for them and send what they don’t consume back to the grid….IF the power company wants it! If their utility loses power, so do they even if the panels make enough power! Yes there may be a few that have battery/solar or generator. What you probably want is a system that collects the energy during the day, stores it for the evening when the heat of the day finally makes it’s way into your house and you can run your air conditioning, cooking and lighting. It doesn’t do any good to make solar power during the part of the day if you don’t have the demand, no way to store it and the utility won’t buy it or pay what it’s worth. A battery system also lets you take power from the grid at off peak times to supplement when solar conditions are poor.
If your electrician hasn’t done this type of solar + battery installation( most haven’t), he’s probably way out of his league.
Don’t be overly optimistic about how much solar you can put on your roof. The panels should face mostly south to be economical. Also there may be some code setbacks from ridge or edges, also pipe or vents(some can be relocated). Then there’s where the rows just won’t fit right. Realistically only 40% of a typical roof is worth covering with panels. That’s why some of the first questions were, “How much land do you have”. A good installer can give you an audit with a close up inspection and see any issues, not just a AI app. Another thing to look into is improving your attic insulation if it isn’t already high performance. Zone control of your home, being able to close off areas not being used hence not needing HVAC. The reality is, that you might be able to cut back to a third or a quarter of your electric bill. So now you get to crunch the numbers on what to do to get how much back and return on investment versus expected system life. Fun

My electrician is definitely out of his league. We have one company coming over on Friday but after talking it over, we will definitely get a few contractors from both word of mouth and Google/Yelp reviews. It seems from this forum and others, not a lot of solar companies stick around a long time.

 

[chrisski]

My electrician is definitely out of his league. We have one company coming over on Friday but after talking it over, we will definitely get a few contractors from both word of mouth and Google/Yelp reviews. It seems from this forum and others, not a lot of solar companies stick around a long time.

I’d like to add solarreviews.com to the list, To be added. The company needs to be in business for 5 years.

 

[new off grid]

Hi folks,

I live in a larger home and receive TWO power bills. I always just accepted that it is what it is but last summer was insane. My average monthly power bill last summer was $2,500 and now I am looking to add some solar. I don't think I can make a complete shift to solar but just be able to bring my costs down.

I've watched plenty of Will Prouse's videos and want to make some moves so I'll be lurking here to get more ideas and recommendations from other users on this forum.

V/R
Ron

2500/month?
how's huge is your home ?
what're you running every sec ?
where're you live ?

 

[dougbert]

2500/month?
how's huge is your home ?
what're you running every sec ?
where're you live ?

he is in henderson Nevada, a few miles SE of Las Vegas on the way to Hoover dam