diy solar

diy solar

I'm looking to power a mobile workshop.

LED lighting for sure,
You can check if it makes better sense to use 120vAC lights or run from DC and use a DC to DC converter to change the 48v to 12v for the lights. Not sure if there is an efficiency cost that is more one way or the other. LED's don't use much power.
 
Brucey said:
The Ruixu could be an option as they also support Victron communication.
Click to expand...
got it. so either the SOK or Ruixu. thanks!

I do have one question about adding batteries. if I went with the Victron 3000w and one SOK Pro Server Rack battery, do all additional batteries have to be the Pro version? I assume probably so, so that they communicate independently with the inverter?

1712197170727.png
 
oceanrider said:
got it. so either the SOK or Ruixu. thanks!

I do have one question about adding batteries. if I went with the Victron 3000w and one SOK Pro Server Rack battery, do all additional batteries have to be the Pro version? I assume probably so, so that they communicate independently with the inverter?

View attachment 206929
Click to expand...
Yes, it was confirmed by Dexter from Current Connected that you can't use one comms version at the head of a stack of non comm units.
 
What is this guy trying to show in this video?

A 1/4 amp of DC standby consumption?

But it seems he’s also showing 240vac

 
oceanrider said:
What is this guy trying to show in this video?

A 1/4 amp of DC standby consumption?

But it seems he’s also showing 240vac

Click to expand...
The multiplus II is for 240v I believe. Standard multiplus for 120v. You can download and read their spec sheets at victronenergy.com and I'm sure one of these guys with a multiplus will chime in.
 
oceanrider said:
What is this guy trying to show in this video?

A 1/4 amp of DC standby consumption?

But it seems he’s also showing 240vac

Click to expand...
Non US Victron models run as 230/240V, no need to pair two together for split phase 120/240. However to get 120V out of one of them you'd need an autotransformer etc.
 
Dave in AZ said:
The multiplus II is for 240v I believe. Standard multiplus for 120v. You can download and read their spec sheets at victronenergy.com and I'm sure one of these guys with a multiplus will chime in.
Click to expand...
Multiplus 2 is a multiplus 1 or multi grid with ability to use CT sensors I believe, can be had in non split phase 230/240V or US 120V.
 
Last edited:
Brucey said:
Non US Victron models run as 230/240V, no need to pair two together for split phase 120/240. However to get 120V out of one of them you'd need an autotransformer etc.
Click to expand...

But in that 42 second video of his, what exactly is he trying to show? Is he trying to show that without an external draw it has a draw of its own?

I assume when not in use if there is a draw, that there is a way to turn the system off? And if you have to turn the system off to not have a draw while idle/standby, how long does it take for the system to come back online if turned off?

I don't see any external switches or breakers.
 
Last edited:
oceanrider said:
But in that 42 second video of his, what exactly is he trying to show? Is he trying to show that without an external draw it has a draw of its own?

I assume when not in use if there is a draw, that there is a way to turn the system off? And if you have to turn the system off to not have a draw while idle/standby, how long does it take for the system to come back online if turned off?

I don't see any external switches or breakers.
Click to expand...
He's showing the zero load (idle) consumption.

The switch is on the bottom right side, switch on is a second or two.

Screenshot_20240404_115247_Gallery.jpg
 
oceanrider said:
But in that 42 second video of his, what exactly is he trying to show? Is he trying to show that without an external draw it has a draw of its own?

I assume when not in use if there is a draw, that there is a way to turn the system off? And if you have to turn the system off to not have a draw while idle/standby, how long does it take for the system to come back online if turned off?

I don't see any external switches or breakers.
Click to expand...
They all have a power draw of their own, quite significant for some. The larger the inverter, the larger the parasitic draw, in general. On some inverters it is 100W or more, and will drain your whole 100Ah 12v battery if left on overnight. This is why all power stations have an on off switch for ac inverter, and you turn it off when not using it. Finding an inverter with enough Watts and surge to start and run your loads, while having the lowest parasitic draw, is pretty much the main design challenge for inverters. This is also a reason why many truck and van setups, folks will also have a small 300W inverter that they use in preference for small AC loads, or as an always on setup for charging tool batteries, etc. Because it is enough for many small jobs, and has like 2 or 3W wasted power only.
 
justinm001 said:
2 SOK 48v rack batteries a Victron multiplus 3000w or 5000w inverter and cerbogx all from currentconnected.com. Get a BMScan cable and you have all the data and everything you need. Can add 1-2 or more batteries if you want.

Also with Victron you could keep your Honda generators and run 1 if you're low on power. Victron will take the 2000w or whatever the generator power is then power assist using the 3000/5000w of your inverter so plenty of power
Click to expand...
Why would I get the Cerbo GX verses the Cerbo-S GX (Lite)?

I'm going to get what you suggest here with one battery for starters, as I still have my generator(s). Rebuild my van out with one battery but keeping a spot low in the van for a second down the road if I feel it needed.

And start looking into Solar. Is there such a roof rack for Sprinter/Transit size rooftops that folds slides out similar to this attached picture...

What might be cool is a array that doubles as a sunshade on the sliding door side (in my case passenger)
 

Attachments

  • solar panel rooftop.jpg
    solar panel rooftop.jpg
    371.5 KB · Views: 5
oceanrider said:
Why would I get the Cerbo GX verses the Cerbo-S GX (Lite)?

I'm going to get what you suggest here with one battery for starters, as I still have my generator(s). Rebuild my van out with one battery but keeping a spot low in the van for a second down the road if I feel it needed.

And start looking into Solar. Is there such a roof rack for Sprinter/Transit size rooftops that folds slides out similar to this attached picture...

What might be cool is a array that doubles as a sunshade on the sliding door side (in my case passenger)
Click to expand...
I have both the normal and lite model. The normal one has 2 CAN port pairs and the lite has only 1. You need the normal one to connect the batteries BMS to the system. When the batteries are connected then they'll control the entire charging system and give you correct SOC, eliminating the need for a shunt.

If you're going with the -S then you could go with the cheap SOK batteries and everything would be dumb. Add a shunt so you can guess SoC and be set. But the extra grand gives you visibility into whats going on and allows everything to communicate
 
justinm001 said:
I have both the normal and lite model. The normal one has 2 CAN port pairs and the lite has only 1. You need the normal one to connect the batteries BMS to the system. When the batteries are connected then they'll control the entire charging system and give you correct SOC, eliminating the need for a shunt.

If you're going with the -S then you could go with the cheap SOK batteries and everything would be dumb. Add a shunt so you can guess SoC and be set. But the extra grand gives you visibility into whats going on and allows everything to communicate
Click to expand...
I will probably go with the SOK batteries. But it sounds like I could go with the "Lite" version Cerbo-S GX with the SOK's and everything will communicate, right? I only need one CAN port for my wanted setup, right? I sort of doubt that I'd ever go more than 2 batteries. But one for starters.
 
oceanrider said:
I will probably go with the SOK batteries. But it sounds like I could go with the "Lite" version Cerbo-S GX with the SOK's and everything will communicate, right? I only need one CAN port for my wanted setup, right? I sort of doubt that I'd ever go more than 2 batteries. But one for starters.
Click to expand...
If you don't plan on having any ve.can items then it looks like you can change the setting for those ports to canbus then it'll work. Not 100% though
 
oceanrider said:
I will probably go with the SOK batteries. But it sounds like I could go with the "Lite" version Cerbo-S GX with the SOK's and everything will communicate, right? I only need one CAN port for my wanted setup, right? I sort of doubt that I'd ever go more than 2 batteries. But one for starters.
Click to expand...
If you need battery comms then the Cerbo-S doesn't have the two BMS-Can ports of the full fat GX shown here

Screenshot_20240405_170108_Samsung Notes.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
Generator Charging Questions (Renogy Lycan 5000)
Replies
3
Views
1K
Sgt.Pepper
S
Y
Mobile PV panel system - ideas needed.
Replies
8
Views
664
Yossarian
Y
Paulwest55
Renogy 2000watt inverter help.
Replies
4
Views
241
mikefitz
mikefitz
taxodium
mobile glass studio
Replies
1
Views
131
chrisski
chrisski
M
Basically a 24v power bank charging from ev power station.
Replies
3
Views
180
Malachi09
M
Back
Top