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diy solar

Is this system layout safe and functional?

Norwasian

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Jan 28, 2024
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The schematic is not perfect due to limitations of the design software used, but imagine that each of the breakers for the PV arrays is connected to both positive and negative cables, i.e. a dual breaker. The fuses would just be on one line as shown.

One of my concerns with having parallel charge controllers like this is what might result if one charge controller failed, without its breaker being the issue (breaker remains closed). Would the current passing from the other controller and/or inverter cause problems in the reverse direction to the failed controller? Are there such things as diodes for this?

I have looked for something like a knife switch or a two-position switch by which the resistor could be connected at position 1 before the direct connection is made at position 2. Perhaps I do not know what search terms to use, but I have not found good options in this amperage range. In lieu of such a switch, I am considering having a second switch which must be manually engaged prior to closing the main switch. The problem with two switches is, of course, that it is less dummy proof: the resistor could be forgotten and not used, and the LF inverter's capacitors could draw a sudden high amperage.

Solar_System_Circuit_Diagram-3.png

As the diagram shows, the twelve PV panels would be in strings of two per string, with two strings per MPPT. Note that apparently LVTOPSUN inverters are made by Deye, which also apparently makes the Sol-Ark models sold in America. The battery comes with a JK BMS.

Being new to this, it is likely I am overlooking something, so I invite your critique. I haven't worked out yet how the CAN and/or RS485 connections should be made.
 
The situation you are concerned about with the MPPT failing is not much different from one mppt getting sun, and the other not. The mppt is designed to have battery power on the output and nothing on the input. Also, if the mppt has failed, putting battery voltage on the output isn't going to make it any worse.

You didn't label position 1 and 2. Seems like you are asking about a precharge resistor circuit. How often are you disconnecting the battery? If rarely, then put a warning sign on the switches. If frequently, then get a 3 position switch that has to go through the precharge circuit. Good high amp 2 position switches are expensive. 3 position even more.
 
Seems like you are asking about a precharge resistor circuit.
Yes.

How often are you disconnecting the battery? If rarely, then put a warning sign on the switches. If frequently, then get a 3 position switch that has to go through the precharge circuit.
The installation is not for myself, and those using it will be far less knowledgeable. I do not know how often they might think it best to shut everything down, which is why I'm trying to design the system with some resilience.

Good high amp 2 position switches are expensive. 3 position even more.
Do you have a suggestion for this? I have yet to find anything, and suspect I am not using the right jargon in my search. If the price is more than half of what I am paying for the inverter (about $450), I may skip this part and just take chances. But otherwise, I think it may be worth it, even if it adds to the overall installation cost.
 
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