Question: if you lift the PV wire(s) does the problem remain?
Sort of. When there is no voltage on the PV input, the inverter fault light only blinks, as opposed to steady with PV connected. But as soon as the PV is connected, the fault is steady. I called Growatt and they are referring this to the engineers in China. The US tech did say that the inverter is reporting the PV voltage too high while I only measure 220 and 190V for each string. Maybe a comparator or something else got fried. Anyway, I'll let you know what they say.
Interestingly, I learned that the reset function in the app wouldn't help as I hoped it would. It is the same as rebooting.
Many times in my career I have found my own “stupid” mistake after having time to chill and rechecking for the 3rd or 4th time, it has been the same on my solar work.
I admit, I've made my share of stupid mistakes. But in this case, all the wires were connected properly and I checked 3 or 4 times. (there are only + - and G so hard to mess up. But then again, I'm good at messing up).
3) I have watched the battery current on my systems spike above 17 amps (400 volts) and persist at that level for a second or two. I’m not sure how accurate my clamp on is, so it might not be quite that high.
I didn't connect the battery to the PV, thank goodness. But interesting that the PV side is messed up, even though it was the battery I was connecting.
4) I have 16 amp breakers between my batteries and inverter inputs. When I turn on a battery before shutting the breaker, the breaker typically trips the first time then stays closed after that. I try to remember to close the breaker first.
Interesting. Must be charging up some big caps when it is first connected. But then it shouldn't matter which order you turn on the breaker and the battery.
Side question: The LG battery has a built in breaker. Is there any need or benefit to adding an in line breaker between the inverter and battery?