Rookie looking to convert to lithium 12 volt

[CrackerJack]

I currently have 2000 Fleetwood Bounder 34D
Ford V10 Triton
- 115 amp alternator + battery control center (need more info on control center)
- 30 amp shore,
- onhan generator 5500
- 2000watt inverter
*Charger/converter 4 stage boondocker
Model- BD-1260C -update per mfg not compatible w/lithium (13.2v-14v 60amp)

Replacement BD1260CL (60 Amp 4-Stage Converter/Charger)Price: $189.00 or​

REGO 12V 3000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter Charger w/Bluetooth​

House batteries are currently charged from all sources * AC-generator & shore converter * DC- Alternator, solar.

with an intelligent system, and . I understand I can upgrade to 50amp shore it's supposedly pre wired for it anyway.

My solar system is a 800 watt Renogey with a 60amp MPTT charger I used for the most part everything that came with the kit with a few extensions and rail mounts vs the manufacturer supplied mounts

I hooked it up to the house battery system witch includes 4 130ah 800cca AutoZone car batteries

** I want to switch my house batteries from a typical car batteries to lithium but I don't want to have issues with compatibility. There is 4 power systems in my vehicle and they are all connected... What would I need to disconnect and what do I keep.what parts can be swapped to make the system compatible. On a budget basis little by little will attach photos of system asap

***Goal***
600HR lithium batteries + *update to now a rego 3000watt inverter charger.
To power fridge, and all lights, outlets, tv, PS4
Split shore power and upgrade to 50 amp from 30 and power only Air conditioners and DC converter.

 

[CrackerJack]

A few more to come

 

[Dave in AZ]

Rover is compatable with lithium. You can just swap out the batteries, basically done.
4 x 130Ah lead acid, 520Ah of which you can only use half as lead acid has a 50% depth of discharge. They are the same as 250Ah of LiFePO4 lithium batteries for total Watt-hrs of energy.
1. Buy a 12V 250Ah or larger battery, replace the lead acids. Don't get multiple batteries, just get the one, no balance issues at all.
2. Tweak the rover output settings for lithium instead of lead acid charging.
3. If Rover doesnt have low temp charge protection, consider getting a battery with it. LiTime has a nice 250Ah low temp protection on sale right now that Will Prowse recommends.

That is pretty much it.

 

[fratermus]

I agree with Dave; the solar only requires configuration changes.

There is 4 power systems in my vehicle and they are all connected... What would I need to disconnect and what do I keep.what parts can be swapped to make the system compatible.

Without knowing what the other three systems are it's hard to say. Here's my take on such a transition.

 

[CrackerJack]

So I have a ohana generator, a boondock 3 way battery charger aka shore power the solar that ties into the back end of the house batteries, and of course the truck alternator

 

[CrackerJack]

K concerned with the boondock unit and we'll the power I pull when starting the truck or generator I guess I got to figure out where the power is being pulled from with the generator

 

[CrackerJack]

I assume I can just use the disconnect switch to separate the house when starting the truck

 

[Rocketman]

Is that a MotorHome? Assume so…

One issue to solve- or it may have been designed in and it’s ok???

That is the alternator charging…

There are two issues to make sure you are ok.

1. After camping and the battery is low - you startup to go home. The alternator could be running flat out and overheat. Because you probably have massive wires from the alternator all the way through the system. There are several ways to solve it.

2. Overcharging the battery on long drives. If you start a long drive with the battery full, your alternator is kicking out 14.4v into a full battery for hours on end. This is not good on the battery.

There are several solutions to solve both issues. I choose to break the connection between the alternator and the lithiums, then install a Dc-Dc charger to help charge the house system.

Good Luck

 

[Aussieguy]

30 and 50 amp .... usually refers to the 120v Shorepower system leave it as it is for the time being.

The green battery is the starting battery (chassis) it's job is to keep the motor and normal dashboard stuff . lights wipers etc running
lifepo4 house batteries and alternators can be a problem.
the metal box "battery control center" will probably contain what connects house to chassis battery together...
disconnect that and look at getting a DC_DC
BTW ..... dc-dc is not a good option if you don't drive a lot! Spend the money on more solar upgrade if you camp for weeks on end in the same spot

But first test out what you already got installed solar and shorepower/converter
there may be enough stuff installed already to keep a smallish bank of lifepo4 happy
Much of this will depend on how power hungry your camping style is and where you intend to camp (forest or desert)

camp only on weekends or an occasional 1-2 week trip
live aboard full time?

My first instinct....... would for you to get a full understanding of how RV electrical works before tearing anything out
if the batteries still work... keep them a bit longer and make a good expansion plan.

 

[CrackerJack]

30 and 50 amp .... usually refers to the 120v Shorepower system leave it as it is for the time being.

The green battery is the starting battery (chassis) it's job is to keep the motor and normal dashboard stuff . lights wipers etc running
lifepo4 house batteries and alternators can be a problem.
the metal box "battery control center" will probably contain what connects house to chassis battery together...
disconnect that and look at getting a DC_DC
BTW ..... dc-dc is not a good option if you don't drive a lot! Spend the money on more solar upgrade if you camp for weeks on end in the same spot

But first test out what you already got installed solar and shorepower/converter
there may be enough stuff installed already to keep a smallish bank of lifepo4 happy
Much of this will depend on how power hungry your camping style is and where you intend to camp (forest or desert)

camp only on weekends or an occasional 1-2 week trip
live aboard full time?

My first instinct....... would for you to get a full understanding of how RV electrical works before tearing anything out
if the batteries still work... keep them a bit longer and make a good expansion plan.

It's a 35' live in Coach gasoline, and gasoline generator we do drive a bit here and there in the desert

*The reason for the rush is I got a few weak batteries and want to get them swapped out ASAP before summer hits *

Well the reason for wanting to switch the 30 to a 50 would to split the AC power to shore only and the AC/DC converter, so that both a/c units could find their happy spot on amps/watts at all times. (And I understand that my model year was built for a 50amp from factory but it was a upgrade item to switch it to a full 50 from 30 and it only took a few cheap parts to do so)

It has a power management system built in having a hard time finding out weather it's compatible, and will shut down the power when full. lately not finding much info online anymore I believe around (13.6v-14.8) going from chassis to house, so it won't ever go over volts on the house battery I'll probably need a fuse to protect power from house to chassis or just disconnect that and the generator altogether and reduce and change of a f,up.

Right now the only thing on the inverter is a few plugs, the fridge,PS4, and I use a DC tv

but yeah I plan on doing a deep dive into they system but thought maybe someone knew a little about a 2000 ford 34D Fleetwood Bounder system with most stock except the fridge and inverter

 

[Rocketman]

A few other items…
I have a 2000 Monaco, so I am somewhat familiar with rigs of this age.

Issues to solve:
1. The converter will pump out a straight approx 13.8 to 13.9v as long as it has 110v power. If you never plug into 120v that can work. (Just charges off generator slowly). You just need to shutdown the generator as the batteries get full- Do not keep plugged into 120v at home or at a RV park for long time. Really these converters were designed before Lithium’s came out. The easy solution is to replace it with something that has a really good Lithium charging sequence.
My preference is Either:
1. If you have a 30a input cord - Victron Multiplus 12/3000.
2. If you have a 50a input cord - Victron Multiplus II 12/3000 2x120v.

Yes Victron is more expensive- but it is very good gear.

You also need a battery monitor- look at Victron Smartshunt or BMV712.

I assume you Renogy mppt’s will have a lithium setting.

Then you need to solve the alternator issue - you don’t want to blowup your alternator nor fry the batteries. You don’t need a Dc-Dc charger- you can just break the connection and have no alternator charging. These are also some devices that will throw a relay so you charge like 15 min on- 20 min off.

Good Luck

 

[0truck0]

What fridge? DC compressor fridge or gas?

If DC comp fridge then that likely one of your biggest needs unless you play vid games all day. OR everything else might add up to more, fans running can be 1-3 amps alone. So, a power audit is needed.
800 watts sounds like plenty for what you described. 800 watts might be all you ever need to keep batts good. I have less and have never used the alternator nor any external charging devices, only the solar.
If gas fridge, then never run it on DC off batteries, never, and if gas then the DC loads when on gas mode are just to keep the circuit board and gas solenoid on and these are minimal draws not need to worry about.

DC-DC charger might not be needed, but is safe way to go. Many argue that the alternator cannot provide high amps anyway to a long thin wire feed to the house batts anyway, but the DC-DC will limit how may amps are drawn off the alternator assuming a perfect world. 20 amps will be enough paired with your 800 w solar.

House charger... my thoughts are to leave it until you get a proper lithium charger, and only connect it (plugged in to power) when you need a "bulk" charge that solar is not providing for any reason. Unplug it when batts are charged (or as charged as the lead acid charger gets it).

Do you really have a starter battery for the RV portion? needed a true deep cycle or at minimum the marine battery, but you are getting rid of them. Best upgrade other than solar!

If you have a compressor fridge and play vid games a lot and run the TV then 400 amp hr lithium batts not a bad choice. 300 might be plenty, 200 will work, but all depends on amt of sun and how much you use it.