42OhmsPA
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Clean setup, nice work.Thanks guys I’ve got two more batts addedView attachment 210032
Clean setup, nice work.Thanks guys I’ve got two more batts addedView attachment 210032
Clamp your L1 and L2 with your meter. Record your amps periodically throughout day and loads. I know @42OhmsPA and others didn’t believe me when I said perfecting your load balance across phases will make that not happen anymore. I’ve got several months without that error now since I moved some circuits over to my L2. My panel was wired pretty stupid from prior owner. It’s too much to type here but their is data to suggest this will help to mitigate the rate of occurrence of that errorJust got another #12 Com error this morning...
Had to restart everything....and reset the clock on my microwave...
Mine is definitely unbalanced but can't easily balance them ..... still may take a look at your method if it gets truly annoying!Clamp your L1 and L2 with your meter. Record your amps periodically throughout day and loads. I know @42OhmsPA and others didn’t believe me when I said perfecting your load balance across phases will make that not happen anymore. I’ve got several months without that error now since I moved some circuits over to my L2. My panel was wired pretty stupid from prior owner
It's not that I don't believe you, I just haven't tried it to verify but I also have not seen the fault again. It happened while I was at work, the largest draw running was a 240V minisplit. I've had one leg up around 4000W, the other below 1000W numerous times with no faults.Clamp your L1 and L2 with your meter. Record your amps periodically throughout day and loads. I know @42OhmsPA and others didn’t believe me when I said perfecting your load balance across phases will make that not happen anymore. I’ve got several months without that error now since I moved some circuits over to my L2. My panel was wired pretty stupid from prior owner. It’s too much to type here but their is data to suggest this will help to mitigate the rate of occurrence of that error
The Mr. Coffee is killing you....After some nice days...now we get 3 days of weather....
Cap'n the batteries cain't take no more!
Anything that can be run on 240V should be run on 240V. My hybrid water heater- 240V. Mini split heat pumps- 240V. If I purchase a hybrid heat pump dryer, it will be 240V.How can one perfectly balance the 2 phases?
Right now mine looks like this:
19.5A on both phases from water heater
9A on L1 from hot tub
1.5A on L2 from fridge
So a difference of 7.5A
This happens frequently. Could be improved by wiring the hot tub as 240V on both phases (it's possible).
We have 2 fridges and I put them on different phases, but of course they don't come on at the same time.
Edit: I have never had that comm error 12.
Anything that can be run on 240V should be run on 240V
I'd pull the Romex out and install THWN. Most likely it is NM-B. Damp/wet location is prohibited for NM-B in a damp/wet location for a reason. On one of my rentals the plumbing/heating guy ran NM-B to the central air condensing unit before I purchased the house. The paper lining in the NM-B wicked moisture into the breaker panel. In the end, I had to replace the whole panel and upgrade the whole service to latest NEC.I have been thinking about this several times today. The hot tub circuit was added decades after completion of original construction. A 1/2" metal conduit runs from the main panel / solar panel room through the masonary wall, outside along the house, then into a slab which was poured for the addition of the indoor hot tub room. Ideally I could pull an extra wire through that 1/2". However, I fear that they pulled romex through the conduit. The total run is about 70 to 80 ft with three or four 90 turns. It's romex on the visible parts of both ends.
If it's romex, I don't think I am capable of adding even just a 14 gauge wire.
This.I'd pull the Romex out and install THWN. Most likely it is NM-B. Damp/wet location is prohibited for NM-B in a damp/wet location for a reason. On one of my rentals the plumbing/heating guy ran NM-B to the central air condensing unit before I purchased the house. The paper lining in the NM-B wicked moisture into the breaker panel. In the end, I had to replace the whole panel and upgrade the whole service to latest NEC.
Attach the THWN to the Romex to pull it thru. If these are 90 degree bends, you shouldn't have a problem pulling it that short distance. You could cut the conduit and install LB's possibly. If they used LB's, then it makes it easy. To see if you can pull it, disconnect one end and see if you can move it using the other end but leave some sticking out so you can attach the THWN.
I'm not worrying much on it.... it's just annoying and I've got batteries to worry about!!!The inverter doesn’t mind imbalanced legs, it’s managing any shift of phase between them… that’s what increases the SPI interface communication which increases the likelihood of a compiling problem between master/slave and a tossed 12 error. Less imbalance, less potential phase shifting, less communication, less errors.
If you’re not seeing a 12 error often just rock on.
it's just annoying and I've got batteries to worry about!!!
When it happens here, there doesn't seem to be any effect on the operation. I.E. it keeps putting out power and appears to be charging from PV but not sure what would happen if it just kept going for a full day or something... I've got no idea what is really going on that causes it and apparently Sungold doesn't either cause they didn't answer my query (but what's new?)....I would say it would be a serious problem if it were to happen at my installation at a time when I am not around, or, worst case, have passed away. Not sure what my wife or daughter would do. I do not have any transfer switches.
There's another thread here where a SGP 8kW model suddenly stopped charging from solar.
I watch it very carefully with my worst case situation in mind.
there doesn't seem to be any effect on the operation
Are you using communications?I do have a small issue / question about configuration settings.
In the past 2 or 3 months, my setup has worked, mostly I did not look at it any more, it just works.
I had [01] = UTI and [06] = SNU.
[28] was 5A which is how much I wanted to charge the battery bank from Grid-in.
The breaker that controls the AC-input ("grid-in") is easily accessible and has remained always off except when weather was overcast for more than a few hours. Basically, when the battery would go below 20%, I flipped that breaker on, and as weather improved, I turned it off.
This is an overcast week again, and I wanted to automate this. No more flipping breakers -- or calling the wife to flip it on.
I changed [01] to SBu.
Changed [05] to 53.2V -- I want the battery to be the source of power instead of utility when battery voltage reaches 53.2V which seems to be something like 50% SOC.
Changed [06] to OSO -- solar charging only, not interested in charging the battery from grid power.
Indeed sometime this morning an alarm was issued that the battery dropped below 10% (water heater had kicked in), and power started coming from grid.
Around 1pm I observed battery voltage of 53.5V (not resting voltage, obviously, the sun had come out and I had 3.2kW from solar panels).
However, the house load (250W) was still on grid pass-through.
Why did it not stop using grid-in?
I turned off the breaker on the left side of the unit, and it started to use battery to power the load.
After a while I turned that breaker back on, and it did not revert to pass-through.
My setting for [05] was accepted as 53.2V. The BMS did not override it with its preferred number 57.6V
Again, shouldn't it have stopped consuming grid power as soon as 53.2V was reached?
At 1pm, I had 53.5V and SOC of 41%
Each individual battery showed 53.5V
Are you using communications?
If you are, you want to use settings 61 and 62