Recent content by justinm001

Finally got the ecoworthy panels I needed and just finished installing the panels..... Should have the last wiring tomorrow or Tuesday then will get the rest finished up. Still need to make final adjustments then screw each row down to make certain they're secured. Then clean the panels and...

MP isn't the old version of the Mp2 they're just a bit different... Both are still sold. I wouldn't worry much about being in warranty it's a Victron. And if almost half price might as well get 2 You can always just go just 1 and run 1 leg of the 50a unless you think you'll use over 6kw...

What's wrong with the Victron? It's the best

I'm with you. I wouldn't trust a device like this with expensive gear on either side. Unless there's some way to protect against voltage spikes. I've already fried 10k+ of electronic gear when my alternator spiked to 16v. Also the battery BMS doesn't help as I've fried those too

Mine looks like this. It's 24 coming in from alternator into 24/48 and 24/12 orions. Large fuse close to the alternator so nothing coming in but all outbound uses mrbf. They go into lynxs with additional fuses in there. My 12v wiring now sits on top. Very happy with the setup and at...

I built one from 2 kegs with bulkheads for electric water heater elements and use a micro processor to set it in .1 percent increments. Comes out 160-170 proof. Aged using staves I get from maker Mark distillery. Quit drinking so just use it for cooking.

Just use a cheap battery backup with ethernet protection ports on the side inside the house with all other electronic gear. I had an issue with a client that was hit by lightning on its coax line because they forgot to ground it. It went through the coax to the modem thru the firewall through...

Because in some instances you want power to bounce equipment. Say you have a full N+1 or N+2 system where you have multiple reduncancies. If power is lost you might want 1 system to stay up with 4ms but the other one to wait a full second to come back online. This way the equipment fails...

I'd go 2s3p if you're 12v. That'll put you at 15a 40v or so. Best for shading and such. Bigger panels are lighter and more watts per square foot, but this is just because brackets between the panels

its 14gauge wire and has 15 amp series rating with each panel 5amps so can handle 3 strings. Glad you told me this as I was running 3s5p of these panels and assumed it was 10gauge so could combine 6 strings without issue... guess not.

Why do you need fuses for 3 strings but not 2? Even if they were 6 strings they can be combined easily and all under 30a

Made some progress. Decided to screw the 100w panel into each slide then they counter balance each other and can easily slide back and forth together. There's enough room I can barely lay down between panels and slide them together then screw then back apart and crawl out. Also lowered the...

I don't think it's the money because they would save. It's the fact they need to make a change and that requires retraining and completely new techniques. On top of this likley they're concerned if they make any electrical changes it'll require them to be a bit safer when running wires... And...

Id bet a lot of the super Cs are 24v or at least have 24v components in the chassis. Like 95% of RVs are made by 3 companies and they are 5-10 years behind in everything.

Very very popular on commercial coaches, busses and semi/trucks. About 80% of my chassis is 24v including bay lights and other things. Prevost busses and coaches have an option for a 24v 225k btu massive HVAC system. 24v is that sweet spot where almost every fuse and breaker system works...