There are several CAN based BMS solutions on the market, this topic is not about which one to choose, it is about a design choice.
Say you have some battery modules paralleled, and they don't have their own BMS. They have their own slave CAN bus module which talks to a master one.
I see two ways...
I have experience with mini splits and they can be quiet (inside unit) when at lower speeds.
And there are big differences. 40 or 50db is very loud and unacceptable for longer periods.
Values of 20 to 28db are quite common for lower speeds / quiet mode.
For the Hotspot it says 26db for other...
@Saxonetter: Better to reply in English.
I think the voltage around 26v is to sense if there is a load or not.
You will need to get Bluetooth app to work, to get further.
Well, the Winston cells can also bulge, as is said in this topic. I think they do that much less than the EVE LFP cells, but they still do it.
Although it might be about corner cases, for example the cell is used out of spec (too hot, or under/overcharged etc), that is not entirely clear to me...
9500 dollar for 200 cells.
I mean, if you have to spent 30 to 50 dollar per cell, it adds up quickly.
But it makes more sense to buy some EV battery pack for that money and reuse the CAN bus infrastructure
In that video there is a comment with an e-mail address. I asked for a price, and you get (as expected) eye watering numbers. Quick response though.
I think these 1S BMS are always a nice a idea, but I also think it will always be more expensive.
For example, in this case Orion is way cheaper...
You can express heat loss of a house in Watts. In my case it can be 600W to 1000W heat loss, of course depending on outside temperature.
Given the efficient heat pump it makes an average 750W heat of 150W electrical power.
This tiny turbine might just do that, of course in windy days.
This...
I am (very likely) buying a van that is built with a 650 Volt electric drivetrain.
I want to modify it with a new battery pack and so on.
One of the things I would like to do is use a grid-tied / AC-coupled inverter to make the energy use more flexible.
Currently the van is already fitted with...
I am (very likely) buying a van that is built with a 650 Volt electric drivetrain.
I want to modify it with a new battery pack and so on.
One of the things I would like to do is use a grid-tied / AC-coupled inverter to make the energy use more flexible.
Currently the van is already fitted with a...
How is the catch power working the boiler? Is it a relay type thing, or is it one if those things that control the power exactly?
Also, it says it doesnt need internet, but I don't see how it is wired. Is it measuring the grid connection current with a clamp?
Did anyone ever reverse engineered the IQ8X-BAT micro inverters?
They are bidirectional and Enphase uses them in everything, even their upcoming V2G EV charger.
They don't do anything by themselves but clearly they can be told to import or export anything from the DC source with some kind of bus...
I also have two of these, which I want to use parallel with 2 blocks of 10kWh NMC batteries.
I don't really understand why they can't go in parallel, especially with these big contactors/relays on them.
Anyway, there will be fuses between the blocks as well as a DC breaker, just to be sure.
I...
Hmm, I searched with some different terms, and got into the Deye inverters, like these ones:
https://www.deyeinverter.com/product/hybrid-inverter-1/sun25-30-40-50ksg01hp3eubm2-3-4-25-50kw-three-phase.html
They are quite heavy and come with a huge PV input power which I cannot really use, but...
Looks like the go-to option for my situation but probably getting really unhappy shipping quotes.
Maybe worthwhile to import multiple units for some other Western-European consumers / forum members
I see the data sheets of the Deye hybrid inverters, looking at the high voltage versions, I cannot really get what the charging power is from AC (grid) to DC.
There is a DC max charge amps, but the voltage can differ greatly, making it exceed the rated power of the unit.
I would like to buy a...
Yes that was what I already had made. It is probably intended as a nice extra service to include a fuse, but it seems a bit random to me without fuse holder and the fact that I might not want it so high. Oh well, will keep it for future projects.
Where I live we are beginning to see that we have too much solar power at certain times (and these times will only increase in next years)
So it is becoming more and more useful to disable grid-tied solar inverters. When you don't have any storage or can't consume the power yourself.
This topic...
@mcshoey Nice but you need to calculate how much you would save of your natural gas bill by heating with a mini split AC system. That way you won't save $18 but a whole lot more. And even if you don't have the energy anymore leftover there is still a good chance it runs cheaper than gas.
Grid going down is not the use case I am talking about.
Also @Hedges:
Current situation has been there for several years. Whatever your solar array produces throughout the year can be deducted from what you consume in a year. Even though you produce most in the summer and consume most in...
Yes the cells that aren't there should go away completely (so not being present and reading 0v or so)
I bought two at once, and one has a sticker on the contacter which is an EV200 and the other doesn't have a sticker at all.
Otherwise, they look exactly the same.
Well, if following hourly pricing market, you can see the evening before if it will become a net loss or gain for that day.
So yes, you could turn it off and on at night. It would be fine to cut it off at AC or DC, nothing is happening at that time.
I would still prefer a solution which allows...
Well, you can configure the BMS can't you? So make the balancing start at 3.4v or 3.35 or something, and lower the float voltage.
I think the float voltage is high if it is going to run like that, floating for complete summers. But it will still work.
Your use case is of course not as intended...
Yes I think they are off.
But, at least it is an affordable wind turbine that can actually generate the 1500 or 2000 Watts in ideal conditions.
As people have tested and shown on Youtube.
It is much better than the other ridiculous claims made by other cheap manufacturers. Because at least...
Well described. Yes there as an extra wire that bypasses the relay, that measures of there is charging applied or power being drawn.
I think it is this behavior that caused me problems when starting again, with them paralleled.
Edit: In the JBD functions menu, there is a "load check" function...
Just go for a heat pump system (which can already be a standard AC heating unit).
So you use more of your own electricity. When the solar production is not there, you probably still save on your energy bill compared to gas and oil. Or they can run at same time.
And since UK is going big on wind...