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Those readings make no sense, according to the manual at https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/C1+4pwuzOSS.pdf the test leads should be disconnected while measuring amps, and only the clamp should be used. There's no way you are getting 40 amps out of series panels when they have an Isc rating...

If you are getting arc faults at night, check your AC connections. Mine worked themselves loose and burned up a wire because I ignored spurious arc fault errors. Now I have a yearly reminder to tighten all the connections.

Not assigning blame (the firmware developers from Elbonia deserve some credit here), but this is a "Should Never Happen" event. Don't care if you didn't think to test for it, don't care if your design reviews didn't turn it up, don't care if this is one for the Risks Digest, bad/miswired/wrong...

I’m going to be using another interlockit.com breaker interlock for just this reason. One ‘grid’ and two ‘generators’ is non-standard, but they’ve been very helpful in helping me determine what I need and making something (semi)custom.

That inverter has TWO MPPT inputs. Each could connect to one string of between 3 and 9 panels.

It's only a suicide cord if it can be energized while not plugged into a functioning grid, and then it's grid-tied, no? Clever!

Not sure (Raspberry Pi and Orange Pi are two separate products by different companies), but usually white is USB2 and blue is USB3

You definitely need more batteries, as you aren’t capturing the afternoon production, but that’ll just show production as being the weak link. I did it the other way around, doubled my production and then rescinding of Net Metering is ‘forcing’ me to add batteries. #FirstWorldProblems

Probably 7PM isn't the best time to determine if you are getting the proper output from your strings, but that first set of readings doesn't look unreasonable. What if you swap to the other string (when the sun is up), do you get similar readings? I'd probably put all eight panels into one...

Nowadays it’s almost certainly a switch-mode buck converter style circuit, so not a lot of waste heat to deal with.

It's a speed-of-damage thing. The fuse has to overheat and melt to open, while the electronics can just break down and short out and fail within milliseconds

FYI: the electrolyte expands as it charges, so you should only top batteries off when they are fully charged.

One Anderson with a resistor in parallel with another without a resistor. Plug the first one in, wait a second, plug the second one in.

Which inverter do you have exactly (this one: https://sungoldpower.com/collections/hybrid-solar-inverter/products/8kw-off-grid-solar-inverter-ul1741 ?), and what are your array details? Panels, configuration, wiring, etc?

Nice! I’d use an aluminum handtruck with pneumatic tires, but then everyone will have their own optimizations for this kind of thing. Yours is way better than mine, cause I haven’t built one!🤪

Two Anderson connectors in parallel on each side. One has a resistor in series with the positive lead. Plug that one in first. Once the recharge time has elapsed, plug in the other one.

So My Watts Up Pro (by the same company) shows the power from the wall at 878 watts, so definitely something wrong with my metering. I'm going to convert over to Shelly Pro 1PM devices, because they never fail (except twice so far, sigh), and because the SC20s are long obsolete and require a...

That’s what testing is for, design reviews, QA, etc.

Currently no, but I believe they’re working on firmware to make it work, as there’s a lot of call for that. For now, run one of the flavors open-loop

AKA my First Wife.

How do you get such granular control over your MPPT?

That's the point where I'd look at running the server room off a single phase, so you don't need a 3phase inverter with batteries

There are two power-in lines, IIRC blue and brown. Connect them to your power supply, either 120 or 240 volts. Yeah, the drawings are a little hard to decipher, but once you understand that it's an autoranging input, and there are two wires, you are good to go. Adapters will probably connect...

I am dreading the 300 pound batteries, the 600 pound batteries better be self propelled and self lifting.

If the CTs are at the meter then yes. If the AC coupled inverter can’t/won’t throttle, that’s a different problem.

He doesn’t, he wants to build a microgrid with batteries, inverters, solar panels. A DIY residential system on an (unspecified) larger scale.

This is indeed a problem. UL1741 means your inverter (not your generator) will shut down on loss of grid. Two other solutions: Now your generator is trying to power every house in the neighborhood and it can’t so it trips it’s breakers. Also linemen are wise to your foolishness and short...

If you have 1:1 net metering you have a virtual battery at 100% efficiency, infinite size, and zero cost. What was the question again? Now you know why the power companies don’t like it.

I want my instant gratification right now!

I’ve been known to make an extension cord from a roll of 12/3 electrical wire with a plug (in your case, to fit the big plug on your generator) on one end, and a double duplex (metal) box with 20 amp outlet on the other. This really is indistinguishable from house wiring.