Most reacted posts

I did 4 years ago. No EV van back in the days. Still today, the choices are pricey. Ford e-Transit, Mercedes eSpinter and soon the Ram Promaster EV... and for those who can wait again and again, the VW Idbuzz someday. You can put your hand on a crash EV for 5-15k$ and have all the parts need...

I did many EV conversion since 2009 and it's my full time job now. My advice: Don't mess a single second with cells of any chemistry. Start a complex conversion by building a huge battery from cells is the better way to never finish this conversion or/and have an unreliable conversion. The best...

I was really lucky and was able to bought new old stock of four 70.5 kWh CATL batteries built to be use on electric truck (class 6-7... you know, big truck, but not semi). I didn't really know what was inside at the time of purchase except they are 70.5 kWh, 96S (309V nominal) and 228Ah cells...

I would never think this possible few days ago, but I have now a 16S and 11.7 kWh battery in stock. It's a good amount of job. The aluminum go out of the way fairly easily, but the green glue is hard to broke and impossible to remove. One of my fear was this green glue to damage the insulating...

It's a good point who can set the choose between both material. I can confirm that copper is way harder to CNC mill than Aluminum 6061-T6. Copper stick a lot to the tool. Below, milled copper busbar inside the junction box of a GM 2500HD electric truck and busbars for a modified Tesla drive.

Things go forward. It's clearly a DIY LifePo4 battery banks ?

Regen is simply awesome to slow down. My Vanabolt, who is heavier than a Bolt can peak at 50-60 kW of regen for 5-10 seconds simply exiting the freeway. ? Driving uphill and downhill in the mountains is fabulous.

Oh! And the Vanabolt have been repair and have a new paint ? Vanabolt... well, I would mean my 64 kWh battery back up on wheels.

I test it: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/dc-solar-directly-to-ev-no-ac.26443/post-736974 This power supply can work directly on solar panel ?.... and from AC, of course.

I'm still waiting for my 48V inverter (Luxpower 6kW aka EG4 6000XP) so I work slowly on the battery. I've cut another time three modules in 3 parts to been able to flip the module in center. That manner all the similar polarity are the same side. So I connect all the busbars and I have now a...

Calb cells with plastic shell are still available. And at 130$/kWh. https://batteryhookup.com/products/calb-ca180-3-2v-180ah-lifepo4-prismatic-cell-90-100

25k$ CAD because 5 years ago a crashed 2017 Bolt cost 18k$ deliver in my driveway. Today, with a bit of luck you can have crash EV with 50-90 kWh battery for 5-10k$. So do your calculs and you could realise how low cost is it. This bring me to the main subject of this thread (High Voltage DIY...

This inrush current is a joke :oops: My 1/2hp well pump draw similar current to start. I have a low quality 2400W inverter and it work. So with eg4 6000xp able to give 50A few seconds everything is fine.

Ohhh sh*t! Things evolve slowly with Flowsquare software. I want few hours just to finally see my van in the software 😓 I bet I have now many other hours to play with this in order to expect to don't only have garbage in / garbage out results...

Are you sure about cold white? Those color temperature are often not pleasant to the eyes (kind blue-white). Warm white if generally desirable in a house/cabin.

There is quite a bit of sun here in Quebec for a huge part of the year (simply forget November, december, january). Panel are cheap now and give you free electricity. To me, it seem annoying to highly rely on public station to charge. And watch out when you will realise that a 6-7 kW charger...

Simple. You identify the faulty 2240Ah cell, after you identify and remove the single 280Ah faulty cells and continue to operate your 48v 1960Ah battery for the time you shout your cell supplier to had sold you crappy cell ;) After you add a new 280Ah cell and you will be able to operate your...

No! The limitation is often the ability to break DC voltage (DC rated AIC).

Add a shrink tube or add 2-3 layers of electric tape over the rods will secure this.

All this is true for fast charge station, but the subject here is about level 2 station (208-240V). Those are way more reliable compare to fast charge station. After a two months road trip across north america in my electric van, I end at similar score ? Often we had to pay a bit to charge...

In the case of who started this thread, the battery terminals seem to be copper with a hole for M6 screw. Terminal seem to be at least 15mm x 15mm, so let say the contact under the screw is a round of 15mm with a 6.5mm hole for the screw. That is 143mm2. It's a huge area equivalent to more than...

I would prefer my EV without generator for two reasons: 1-I have hard time to extract and refine gas in my backyard. It's a solar forum here, right ? 2-Extra maintenance of a second powertrain (ICE here) is pain in the ass.

It's exactly where I disagree and try to warn peoples. I build EV and solar batteries since 2008 and it's my full time job now. My advice for anyone who are tempted to build a battery to do a conversion: It's 10 times easier to build a frame to receive an OEM battery than build a battery who...

You plan 10 kWh AGM battery? Do you took time to look at lifepo4 batteries price? You can be surprise to realize that lifepo4 can be cheaper / kWh (usable).

Why 250Vdc, let go up to 108S like in EV with LFP cells, so 350Vdc nominal. By the way, 48V seem like the hard stop for ''safe'' to touch with hands because anything above 60V could kill you. So, yeah, it's 48V and the next step is 400V or even 800V like EVs. Nothing between, there is no reason.

From dianea: ''It was a set of AC 600 volt fuses on a 500 volt DC feed from the panels'' AC voltage is way easier to break than DC voltage. It's why some class T fuse have 200ka AC interrupting rating, but only 20ka DC rating.

Yes, here next to a Tesla Pyrofuse bolt on... a custom fuse holder ;)

With LFP, NMC, NCA, Lead acid and any chemistry. All have electrical contacts, so of course I add some anti oxidation grease. No-Ox-ID A special in my case.

It think it's time for you to try to drive few differents EV. Brisk acceleration, instant torque, low noise, no engine vibration, few 0.01$ / mile to run, no bad smell/fume, charge at home/full range each morning... You can clearly find downside to EV, but they are far superior over ICE in many...

Still it's easier to build, manage and monitor fewer components, contacts and crimps. To me, in the specific case of 128 cells to build a 48V battery or batteries, my choice is one 16S 8P battery. I can understand to use two 16S 4P batteries, but more batteries, I don't. Well, the important...