diy solar

diy solar

Air gap for heat to escape?

What kind of insulation you have used and how thick layers?

Not OP, but PIR is excellent for this. Something like Finnfoam FF-PIR.
I made a calculation in the past:


You can adapt that to your box dimensions and temperatures.

Also: tervetuloa forumille!
 
Not OP, but PIR is excellent for this. Something like Finnfoam FF-PIR.
I made a calculation in the past:


You can adapt that to your box dimensions and temperatures.

Also: tervetuloa forumille!

Thank you for the interesting link and info. In case of over heating or actual fire would mineral wool be better option? I am not so excited to work with mineral wool though.

Since I am not in a hurry I might construct PIR insulated box to test summer time air cooling and winter time heating. Heating elements could simulate the heat effect of a battery and a BMS during summer tests.

Will have to read more about those heating pads and how to control them.

And kiitos, nice forum and lots of info. About a month ago I had no interest towards batteries and now I am planning 8 kWp solar system with 30-45 kWh batteries. I wonder how deep this rabbit hole extends...
 
What kind of insulation you have used and how thick layers? What is the minimum temperature for the 27 W heater to still be enough? Any recommendations for fans?

I have just started initial planning of an insulated battery box with heating capability for winters and air cooling with fans for summertime. Boxes are going to be outdoors so in addition rain, snow, humidity, dust, etc. must be taken into consideration.

In my case the minimum outdoor temperatures are -30...-25 °C (-22...-13 °F) and the maximum temperatures +25...+30 °C (+77...+86 °F), these being the extremes.

It doesn't get as cold here (-10°C extreme) but I made an 18mm ply box and covered it in 25mm PIR insulation with foil taped joints
 
It doesn't get as cold here (-10°C extreme) but I made an 18mm ply box and covered it in 25mm PIR insulation with foil taped joints

Sounds good. I am thinking of 12 V system for heating and fans, just an initial thought.

He took the RED pill... :eek: :eek: :eek:

The pill may have been red, but everything seems so blue right now.. like Victron's blue.
 
If you take the Blue pill, you go Victron and no Rabbit holes appear?
But if you take the Red pill, you get some AIO and build DIY batteries add BMS's and then SA to get it all to work together...and spend three years reading posts on a popular solar forum, learning a ton about stuff you didn't realize you needed to know...and meet a lot of other 'rabbits' along the way!
 
If you take the Blue pill, you go Victron and no Rabbit holes appear?
But if you take the Red pill, you get some AIO and build DIY batteries add BMS's and then SA to get it all to work together...and spend three years reading posts on a popular solar forum, learning a ton about stuff you didn't realize you needed to know...and meet a lot of other 'rabbits' along the way!
How true…. No rabbit holes … set it up and just go back inside and let it run…
 
But where is the FUN in that!? :ROFLMAO:
Well shucks …. I can’t really say…but I know it’s un- fun when I’m trying to get somthing to work right and it doesn’t…I will just accept a life of trying to get some of the other stuff I own to work…at least at this point the solar gear requires little effort…except to build it…and pay for it… thank goodness I have been lucky…
 
If you take the Blue pill, you go Victron and no Rabbit holes appear?
But if you take the Red pill, you get some AIO and build DIY batteries add BMS's and then SA to get it all to work together...and spend three years reading posts on a popular solar forum, learning a ton about stuff you didn't realize you needed to know...and meet a lot of other 'rabbits' along the way!

Bobcats catch and EAT rabbits, don't they?
 
Why not something like this mounted to an aluminum plate. Put the plate on the bottom, mount this through the floor of the box and put it on legs. And there are some of these devices that when you flip the polarity and reverse the current the opposite heat/cool flows the other way.

That would work, but Peltier devices are notoriously inefficient. Passive heating and cooling is best if you can figure it out. Otherwise you use all of your solar power keeping your solar equipment happy.
 
Click on my battery build thread in my signature below to see how I solved my ventilation for the battery box.
In short holes and mosquito netting.
 
If you take the Blue pill, you go Victron and no Rabbit holes appear?
But if you take the Red pill, you get some AIO and build DIY batteries add BMS's and then SA to get it all to work together...and spend three years reading posts on a popular solar forum, learning a ton about stuff you didn't realize you needed to know...and meet a lot of other 'rabbits' along the way!

The system is going to combine the best (?) parts of both sides, so the rabbit hole shall be purple.

I am already running all my home automations with Home Assistant and Victron ESS mode 3 is already on my list as well as DIY batteries.
 
Why not something like this mounted to an aluminum plate. Put the plate on the bottom, mount this through the floor of the box and put it on legs. And there are some of these devices that when you flip the polarity and reverse the current the opposite heat/cool flows the other way.


I might order one at least to test with. Condensation may be challenge just like with freezers or fridges. Although in a sealed box there shouldn't be that much moisture available.

That would work, but Peltier devices are notoriously inefficient. Passive heating and cooling is best if you can figure it out. Otherwise you use all of your solar power keeping your solar equipment happy.

I wonder how much power is needed to keep insulated box at around +20...25 °C if the outside temperature is about +25...30 °C at maximum. At those temperatures there are probably excessive amount of solar energy available so 50 or even 100 W should not be a problem.
 
I might order one at least to test with. Condensation may be challenge just like with freezers or fridges. Although in a sealed box there shouldn't be that much moisture available.



I wonder how much power is needed to keep insulated box at around +20...25 °C if the outside temperature is about +25...30 °C at maximum. At those temperatures there are probably excessive amount of solar energy available so 50 or even 100 W should not be a problem.
I can test this for you!!
I have a 24v (8s) plywood case with two 75W silicone heating pads inside, connected to a digital control. I set the operating range pretty wide so the heater only cycles a few times per hour - well depending on the temperatures outside.
This DIY pack runs an MPP2724 mobile pack for tools and things around my property or mounted in the bed of my truck as a mobile 20A outlet to go.
A few weeks ago I ran my MIG welder on this set up, while building my next PV array racks, and the heating function just cycled on and off to hold the temperature inside the case at about 15-degrees-C while it was about neg 15C outside. I remember watching the cycle time, to get an idea of the energy used, and the "on" time was only about five minutes, about once every 30-45minutes or so. The box is not insulated - just 19mm plywood.
The loads on the battery were near to my max 20A-120v output for the inverter, ie 80A from the cells, which would aid with keeping them warm I suspect. Would be interesting to just put the battery outside, turn on the heating function and measure energy used for a period of 8-hours, with no loads affecting the numbers.
Some 50mm polystyrene insulation would reduce the heating requirement considerably. I am working on an removable insualted box option.
I can do a more detailed test this weekend if you would like the data collection, just let me know.
 
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