diy solar

diy solar

Alternator charging issues, only getting 26A (Sterling Power)

NarrowboatLiving

New Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2023
Messages
21
Location
UK
Hi, My 4 x EVE 280Ah cells arrived today, I rigged them up to the BMS, and connected the battery to my domestic side in parallel to my 3 AGMs.

I can isolate either the EVE battery or the AGMs

The EVE cells were at 3.2V on arrival, once hooked up I started the engine to charge the 3 AGMs, and once they were charging for a few minutes I turned on the EVE battery and then turned off the AGMs.

With the 280Ah EVE battery connected to the alternator via the 210A Sterling alternator to battery charger, they would only take 26A. It is a 150A alternator, It is the same 26A at just over idle at 1200 rpm and at 3500 rpm.

Does this mean my alternator is in need of repair/replace??? I cant be running my engine for 11 hours to charge it, I was thinking I would be able to charge from empty to full in 2 hours approx
 
We are going to need additional details to help on this one.

How are you testing the current supplied from the alternator (the 26A reference)?

What is the BMS rated for on the batteries and how is it configured for charging?

Did you balance and test the cells before you tried to charge them?

How long does it take to charge the AGM's on a regular basis?

What profile is being used by the charger?

Where is the temp sensor installed between the charger and the batteries?

Are you running an external regulator on the alternator and if so, how is it configured?
 
Hi, thanks,

The 26A was measured on the Daly 300A BMS app

Bms is wired up as per the instructions, Daly 300A, 150A max charge

I have no way to top balance the batteries in parallel, I have no charger for that. They were on the alternator for 2 hours and the 4 cells were pretty much the same voltage as each other.

It usually takes 1 hour to charge my AGMs daily from 12.3 - nearly full and a long float for 3 hours once per week. but recently they have lost capacity and get back to 12.3 in 30 mins instead of the 8 - 10 hours when new. The charger is set to 14.6V but it never reached that as I got bored of the noise after 2 hours, no temp sensor on the batteries, just the bms temp sensor which i put in the middle between the inner 2 cells.

regular regulator as standard on the alternator, battery charger drops to voltage from it and boost it to batteries.

My ignition light is on but dim the last 2 weeks, 17V coming out the exciter wire on the alternator but it seems to be putting out correct voltage, first 3 mins after starting engine the charges is disengaged so just regular regulator voltage. It is 14V on alternator terminal
 
It usually takes 1 hour to charge my AGMs daily from 12.3 - nearly full and a long float for 3 hours once per week. but recently they have lost capacity and get back to 12.3 in 30 mins instead of the 8 - 10 hours when new
... or they were no longer being charged fully, due to alternator / voltage regulator issue?
 
... or they were no longer being charged fully, due to alternator / voltage regulator issue?
Yes this is possible, I wonder if the cells from fogstar only take high current at lower SOC, Having trouble getting the SOC down so I can test it out again. Ordered a matching regulator for my alternator £16 Hitatchi, I doubt I would be able to change the rectifier as its soldered in and my soldering Iron is tiny 30W for small wiring
 
Yes this is possible, I wonder if the cells from fogstar only take high current at lower SOC, Having trouble getting the SOC down so I can test it out again. Ordered a matching regulator for my alternator £16 Hitatchi, I doubt I would be able to change the rectifier as its soldered in and my soldering Iron is tiny 30W for small wiring
That's not how lithium works. The cells take what ever you can throw at them
 
connected to the alternator via the 210A Sterling alternator to battery charger
Check with Sterling but I understand the alternator to battery charger should not be used with lithium. With AGM the batteries limit charge current, lithium do not. Expect you have caused issues with the alternator or Sterling charger.
Direct from the alternator, ( if its working OK) to the Fogstar cells with something like 25mm cable and fuses, expect around 100 amps at 1000 engine RPM. This could be a medium/ short term test.

Idealy you need a current limited battery to battery charger with a charge profile, bulk, absorbe, float. Value at the moment is Renogh DC to DC 60 amp, can be used in parallel.
 
The cells take what ever you can throw at them
To a point... they will take it, but not good for them, especially if < 20degrees C.

Their max charge is 1C at ideal temperature and below 70% SOC. 1C is 280A, but better to charge at 0.5C or less. Here's EVE's charge profile for the LF280K cells - see how it varies on temp and SOC.

eve-lf280k-charge-vs-temperature-profile-png.121396
 
What's your charging voltage of the alternator?

What's thebSOC and current resting battery voltage (specifically when you were trying to charge the batteries)
 
Check with Sterling but I understand the alternator to battery charger should not be used with lithium. With AGM the batteries limit charge current, lithium do not. Expect you have caused issues with the alternator or Sterling charger.
Direct from the alternator, ( if its working OK) to the Fogstar cells with something like 25mm cable and fuses, expect around 100 amps at 1000 engine RPM. This could be a medium/ short term test.

Idealy you need a current limited battery to battery charger with a charge profile, bulk, absorbe, float. Value at the moment is Renogh DC to DC 60 amp, can be used in parallel.


I called Sterling support a few days before my cells arrived, I asked them about the ignition light on and 17V from exciter wire and 14.4 from alternator, it was purchased as a "Sterling 200A Alternator", they no longer sell them and would not give me the product code or alternator number so i could source a regulator. I never managed to get more than 145A from it from new with 880Ah AGM bank at 11.7V so it was not a 200A alternator. I spent hours and hours scouring the internet to find the alternator, eventually found it by checking the number on the regulator. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/0101542902 They range from £75 - £700 depending on manufacturer. I paid £400 from Sterling. Sterling tech support didnt say anything negative about using the battery charger for the EVE cells, except that I should buy a 7 or 9 inch car radiator fan and have it blowing directly on the alternator when running.

I have no funds to buy anymore equipment, and do not want to be limited to 60A charge, my plan is to charge at .5C which is 140A, and within the limits of the specs by EVE, I appreciate your input regarding the charger idea but I am literally struggling to buy anything ATM and not even able to buy fuel to keep warm for this month. And its freezing cold out there.
 
What's your charging voltage of the alternator?

What's thebSOC and current resting battery voltage (specifically when you were trying to charge the batteries)

It is a 14V alternator, it puts out 14.4 to the full starter battery, but the battery charger once active drops the alternator voltage to 13.2 nd boosts the voltage to domestic bank when boosting, I can select the voltage either 14.2 14.4 or 14.6 or 14.8.I used 14.2 for my AGMs but tried all settings except 14.8 for my LiFePO4 cells. the cells were 3.2V on arrival, so 12.8 after 2 hours charging and 30 mins putting out 80W they were at 3.333 13.3

I only charged once for 2 hours now I want to let it come down to 12.4 before charging again but fear it may take 10 hours with this issue instead of 2 or more.

I ordered a regulator but didnt realise it was coming from Germany cos its a scetchy site from the link in above post, I hope that this will fit and work correctly and fix my exciter wire issue and current output, but i am not 100percent convinced, i fear it may be the rectifier or some other issue. All my cables are 70mm2, thicker than my fingers
 
It is a 14V alternator, it puts out 14.4 to the full starter battery, but the battery charger once active drops the alternator voltage to 13.2 nd boosts the voltage to domestic bank when boosting, I can select the voltage either 14.2 14.4 or 14.6 or 14.8.I used 14.2 for my AGMs but tried all settings except 14.8 for my LiFePO4 cells. the cells were 3.2V on arrival, so 12.8 after 2 hours charging and 30 mins putting out 80W they were at 3.333 13.3

I only charged once for 2 hours now I want to let it come down to 12.4 before charging again but fear it may take 10 hours with this issue instead of 2 or more.

I ordered a regulator but didnt realise it was coming from Germany cos its a scetchy site from the link in above post, I hope that this will fit and work correctly and fix my exciter wire issue and current output, but i am not 100percent convinced, i fear it may be the rectifier or some other issue. All my cables are 70mm2, thicker than my fingers
How long is the total round trip distance from alternator to lithium battery?
 
I called Sterling support a few days before my cells arrived, I asked them about the ignition light on and 17V from exciter wire and 14.4 from alternator, it was purchased as a "Sterling 200A Alternator", they no longer sell them and would not give me the product code or alternator number so i could source a regulator. I never managed to get more than 145A from it from new with 880Ah AGM bank at 11.7V so it was not a 200A alternator. I spent hours and hours scouring the internet to find the alternator, eventually found it by checking the number on the regulator. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/0101542902 They range from £75 - £700 depending on manufacturer. I paid £400 from Sterling. Sterling tech support didnt say anything negative about using the battery charger for the EVE cells, except that I should buy a 7 or 9 inch car radiator fan and have it blowing directly on the alternator when running.

I have no funds to buy anymore equipment, and do not want to be limited to 60A charge, my plan is to charge at .5C which is 140A, and within the limits of the specs by EVE, I appreciate your input regarding the charger idea but I am literally struggling to buy anything ATM and not even able to buy fuel to keep warm for this month. And its freezing cold out there.
I suspect that the 200 amp rating is 10 volts. As the voltage climbs the amps will drop.
 
How long is the total round trip distance from alternator to lithium battery?
1 Metre to charger then 1 Metre to battery, It has been charging fine in the past, i had a sterling remote with amps on it, its broke now but it used to show 145A charging at 14.2V

That was the max, i used to charge at 100A just over idle
 
Just had my engine on for 7 hours, 28A in to battery. totally outrageous. I am sure it is due to Sterling dodgy equipment. My Sterling 1800W inverter broke after 2 years, it cost a lot of money, £400, i replaced it with modified cine wave 1800W from ebay for £70, it works great. The remote for my alternator to battery charger broke after 2 years, so now I can no longer see what is going on with Amps, Voltage, errors etc. It cost £200, The alternator to battery charger seems like it is not working correctly, stops boosting power too early. It was £700. My 200A Sterling Alternator has gone into some high voltage output at only warm temperature without alerting me via the charger, cooked my newish AGM bank. It was £400 and was only 140A and i can see online I can get the exact same alternator new for £75. They will not tell me what regulator to get to fix it, probably because its just a cheap piece of shite that they sold for 5 times the price of getting it from a motor factors.

Sterling stuff is complete garbage, their support is shite wont help me fix my alternator with a £10 part number. I do not recommend anyone who does not want their arse setting on fire to purchase anything from Sterling Power, Sterling Power is the Power of Borats brother with the "Big Retardation"

Charles Sterling you are remarkably like the end of a bell.
 
Just had my engine on for 7 hours, 28A in to battery. totally outrageous. I am sure it is due to Sterling dodgy equipment. My Sterling 1800W inverter broke after 2 years, it cost a lot of money, £400, i replaced it with modified cine wave 1800W from ebay for £70, it works great. The remote for my alternator to battery charger broke after 2 years, so now I can no longer see what is going on with Amps, Voltage, errors etc. It cost £200, The alternator to battery charger seems like it is not working correctly, stops boosting power too early. It was £700. My 200A Sterling Alternator has gone into some high voltage output at only warm temperature without alerting me via the charger, cooked my newish AGM bank. It was £400 and was only 140A and i can see online I can get the exact same alternator new for £75. They will not tell me what regulator to get to fix it, probably because its just a cheap piece of shite that they sold for 5 times the price of getting it from a motor factors.

Sterling stuff is complete garbage, their support is shite wont help me fix my alternator with a £10 part number. I do not recommend anyone who does not want their arse setting on fire to purchase anything from Sterling Power, Sterling Power is the Power of Borats brother with the "Big Retardation"

Charles Sterling you are remarkably like the end of a bell.
What ever you do, don't buy their lithium batteries. I seen inside one of them. The worst lithium battery internals I have ever seen. They even use spray foam to keep the battery in place FFS
 
Back
Top