NarrowboatLiving
New Member
And when it breaks they will just offer you 10% of a new unit, that will break
Alternator charging issues, only getting 26A (Sterling Power)
- Thread starter NarrowboatLiving
- Start date
And when it breaks they will just offer you 10% of a new unit, that will break
As a US Sterling dealer/distributor we would never, ever advise the Sterling A2B chargers for LFP. You are far better off to convert the alt to external regulation then use a quality external regulator such as a Balmar 618, Wakespeed WS500 or ARCO ZEUS.. The only time we ever sold A2B’s was when an engine was brand new and under warranty and even then we tried to talk sense into the customer…
NarrowboatLiving
New Member
I do not have money so can not spend any. I have to make it work with A2B for now. I have a 9inch radiator fan blowing on my alternator. is does not get hot
The regulator brushes were cracked when i took it out today
The regulator brushes were cracked when i took it out today
What I see here is that your (NarrowboatLiving) alternator is not installed correctly or as recommended, and now you are upset that it isn't working and you are blaming Sterling Power.
The current you get into your battery from your alternator is going to be dependent on many things. The voltage output of the alternator that is feeding the A2B, and the voltage the A2B is providing to the battery, and the voltage of the battery. It all needs to be setup correctly to work together.
If you have a 150A alternator, have you tried connecting it directly to the LFP bank, without the A2B charger? Try it, and keep an inferred thermometer on it while you test. You might find it works fine, and you get 100A+ out of it. If it overheats there might be other things to do to reduce current. Depending on the results go from there. While it is certainly preferable to have a fancy externally regulated, it isn't necessary in all cases.
The current you get into your battery from your alternator is going to be dependent on many things. The voltage output of the alternator that is feeding the A2B, and the voltage the A2B is providing to the battery, and the voltage of the battery. It all needs to be setup correctly to work together.
If you have a 150A alternator, have you tried connecting it directly to the LFP bank, without the A2B charger? Try it, and keep an inferred thermometer on it while you test. You might find it works fine, and you get 100A+ out of it. If it overheats there might be other things to do to reduce current. Depending on the results go from there. While it is certainly preferable to have a fancy externally regulated, it isn't necessary in all cases.
NarrowboatLiving
New Member
No, you are mistaken, it's been set up great, and worked daily since 2017, thats 6 years living on the boat with th A2B charging at 140A flawlessly almost every day, until just recently. I charge the AGM bank when they drop to 12.3 or 12.2 volts. i can get about 8 - 10 hours watching 4k movies before charging. all of a sudden i now get 15 minutes until 12.3v and the charge light is dim on the ignition, i get over 17 volts from the exciter wire.
I think the alternator has over volted the AGM bank and failed it, i could only get 30A from it instead of the 140A it was the day before but the voltage seemed to stay stable.
Today i noticed the over volts light was on on the charger, it was at 15.8V at the alternator input on the charger, same on my AGMs. It was producing 30A and red hot at high rpms. no lifepo4 connected. after 10 mins charging.
The alternator is screwed, what you see does not correspond with reality. Its just your own issues that make you see things that are not really there, only you can do something about that, nobody can do it for you.
I do not want to put the my new LiFePO4 battery on this alternator, the reason i purchased it was because it was the same price as 3 new AGMs that got destroyed from 8 hours use down to 15 mins after 1 charge cycle. the charger does not protect the bank, just puts a red led on in the engine room where nobody can see it.
Sterling power will not give me the part number for the regulator and the number on the regulator does not correspond with anything anyone can find
Benjamin Yang
New Member
What is the current of the alternator without connecting to a new power source
NarrowboatLiving
New Member
All the wiring is the same for the last 6 years. I used 70mm2 cable, I have not altered anything except I have installed a DIY LiFePO4 battery in parallel to my AGMs. I can charge it, or the agms or both together via the master isolator switch for each bank. they are both 500A switches.
I installed the new battery AFTER AFTER AFTER my AGMs got ruined and the alternator started putting 17V+ out of the excited making my ignition light come on dimly.
All my wiring is excellent, I have been over every terminal and degreased it and found nothing unusual.
I have done lots of testing, I have put new cable to my starter battery and connected the alternator to it direct, bypassing the domestic banks, with my inverter to the starter battery i turn on the 1000W immersion heater calling for 90 Amps but the alternator does not do more than 30A now.
I need a new alternator but can not afford to buy one ATM, the alternator puts out 30A and get incredibly hotwhen connected to a charged starter battery, it used to stay colder at 140A.
I installed the new battery AFTER AFTER AFTER my AGMs got ruined and the alternator started putting 17V+ out of the excited making my ignition light come on dimly.
All my wiring is excellent, I have been over every terminal and degreased it and found nothing unusual.
I have done lots of testing, I have put new cable to my starter battery and connected the alternator to it direct, bypassing the domestic banks, with my inverter to the starter battery i turn on the 1000W immersion heater calling for 90 Amps but the alternator does not do more than 30A now.
I need a new alternator but can not afford to buy one ATM, the alternator puts out 30A and get incredibly hotwhen connected to a charged starter battery, it used to stay colder at 140A.
It sounds like failed diodes to me. I had an Hitachi alternator that only put out 8A. It was diode failure or partial failure. New diodes fixed it
grizzzman
Photon Vampire
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2019
- Messages
- 2,783
A properly working alternator will NEVER output 17 volts out of any input/output (with a load/battery) cracked brushes,hot case says that the diodes are bleeding power into the case. A multi-meter set on ac from the alt. Post and case will show if the diodes have failed.
NarrowboatLiving
New Member
Yes thanks, i didnt think i regulator would fix it. I am looking at a hc cargo 200A alternator, it is £200 new same case setup. but no money till the new year. A recifier for this one is £33 + regulator which I can not locate. maybe new unit is best.
I think my multimeter only reads DC, Output voltage seems to be good, just the exciter is putting out 17+. its a sterling alternator, they wont give me any part numbers. I think replacing diodes is beyond my ability, soldering iron is 25W and doesnt do anything except make solder go slightly bendy
I only see the words you type. You said nothing previously about this working for 6 years. You started your first post with your new LFP cells just arriving and went from there. If you want help, your clarity is important. Otherwise, we all guess.
Did the alternator failure occur while still connected to the AGM, of after connecting to the LFP? I can't tell from your answers which is the case. If you have 15.8 volts coming from the alternator and going into the charger, it sounds like the alternator regulator or diodes are fried. Is this is an internally regulated, or externally regulated alternator?
If you ran a typical internally regulated 150A alternator at 140A for 6 years, that is really really hard on it. You killed it. For continues duty, a typical 150A alternator needs to be derated to ~100A. The 150A rating is only for short cycles.
Regulator from the alternator? If the brushes were cracked the alternator got hot.
Not sure what you are asking. You seem to know the issue. No amount of messing with the charger or wires or connectors will get you a new alternator for free. I suggest taking it to an alternator repair shop. They can test and confirm the issue, and probably fix it, for cheaper than a new alternator. They might be able to beef it up some, or rewind to a smaller size, so you have something more robust.
mikefitz
Solar Wizard
- Joined
- May 28, 2020
- Messages
- 3,002
What engine do you have?
It's probable your alternator type can be replaced by a common vehicle alternator, a vehicle dismantler should be able to offer a suitable replacement ar low cost.
Its clear from your comments the existing alternator is faulty beyond repair. The poor regulation and high output voltage may have damaged the AGM batteries.
It's probable your alternator type can be replaced by a common vehicle alternator, a vehicle dismantler should be able to offer a suitable replacement ar low cost.
Its clear from your comments the existing alternator is faulty beyond repair. The poor regulation and high output voltage may have damaged the AGM batteries.
