So the LF304 should reach 200°C ?
No, fair enough.Even if it does: I would like to know how it got to that stage in the first place without the BMS kicking in. An internal short (dendrites) can not carry that much current [1] and the internal short will just drain the cell, again kicking in the BMS.
[1] 'ISC due to Li dendrites are often referred to as “soft-shorts”, since they are known to “self-heal” by melting (melting point of Li metal: 180.5 °C) due to the fuse-effect'
Not really banned but no, I don't really use them .Nah, I'm out.
I assume stuff like candles and the like are banned in your home, eh?
Good luck.
So you get a piece of this and then the 285-150s use it as a bus?Use WAGO 285-150 for EVERYTHING - Lot less of Cable Lugs to crimp etc - Costs a bit, but save lots of time
Can only imagine what sitting in an outdoor enclosure in summer does to degradation, eg4 power pro 280ah for example. I see a few batteries with heating to allow sub freezing charging, but seems like avoiding high temps would be just as critical if not more so?Yes, but I meant that temperature is much more important. The reason for the cycle life difference between 280k and 304 is that they test them at different C rates: 0.5C vs 1C
If you want the exact part list here it is :So you get a piece of this and then the 285-150s use it as a bus?
Note that you do NOT use the DIN rail as a bus. The "bus" is "provided" by the "jumper" WAGO 285-450So you get a piece of this and then the 285-150s use it as a bus?
Ok thanks I understand now I was missing the bridge pieces you linked. Seems like a nice clean solution.Note that you do NOT use the DIN rail as a bus. The "bus" is "provided" by the "jumper" WAGO 285-450
DIN Rails are used as a bus for earth connection regularly. For power transfer (i.e. in copper, like the one you linked) I'm not so familiar. Copper DIN rail is good, the question would be how good the *electrical* contact between the DIN rail and your terminal block is.
FYI this is WITH contact between DIN rail and "power" contacts, but usually Earth doesn't carry continuous current:
Wago 2 Leiter Schutzleiterklemme 285-157 50qmm gruen-gelb
POWER CAGE CLAMP®, nur auf TS 35 x 15 2,3 mm dick Kupferwww.elektromax24.de
The WAGO 285-150 (grey) and 285-154 (blue) do NOT have an electrical connection to the DIN rail. It's plastic on the back and plastic clips, nothing connecting the "back" to the power terminals.
Everything has pros and cons.Ok thanks I understand now I was missing the bridge pieces you linked. Seems like a nice clean solution.
but seems like avoiding high temps would be just as critical if not more so?
But I'm wondering with the low internal resistance ...Yep - at cold temps, the battery limits charge current itself due to increasing internal resistance. No such limiting at high temps.
In my insulated garage I have approximately a delta of +10°C between outdoors and inside. So the battery is currently at 18-20°C, just because of the losses of the chargers and/or inverters.Think about Andy's garage in sunny hot Australia. They see 35C for sure in his cabinet.
It's not about self-heating (LFP has a very efficient round trip), it's more about ambient over 30C which many people not in our Nordic region face for long periods of time during a year.
Treated lumber is very corrosive. You need to use specially rated fasteners with it or they will quickly deteriorate. I wouldn't recommend treated lumber for anything electrical.Did you use / will you use treated wood (usually green-ish, for outdoor use and insect/termite resistant) or just regular untreated wood ?
I thought I read that as long as fastener are galvanized it should be fine.Treated lumber is very corrosive. You need to use specially rated fasteners with it or they will quickly deteriorate. I wouldn't recommend treated lumber for anything electrical.
Galvanized nails are Ok for treated lumber. The "Hot Dipped Galvanized" are better and will last longer. Untreated regular nails or screws are not recommended. Now some of this depends on where the items are used too. If they are in a perfectly dry location, they probably would not be severely affected by corrosion. Corrosion is usually going to require some moisture. Of course the whole point of treated lumber is that it is meant for locations that will have some moisture. If you have some moisture, plus untreated fasteners, plus treated lumber, that is a bad combination.I thought I read that as long as fastener are galvanized it should be fine.
Just to clarify because I re-googled what I found back then ... The key word is "hot dip galvanized", which provides thick enough zinc. Do NOT use electrically galvanized steel ! Electrically galvanized steel is NOT suitable for outdoors anyways, where treated wood would be used.I thought I read that as long as fastener are galvanized it should be fine.
But yeah, for the battery I'm building now, it's raw (untreated) wood.
or stainless steel.