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Design for "ultimate" "fire-proof" 274kWh+ battery shed

CzerwonaKrowa

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I have been lurking on these forums (especially in the up-in-smoke and LifePO4 DIY forums) and been learning a lot and thinking about a design for an unconventional battery shed that will probably stir up a lot of controversy but I have specific design requirements that I will outline and would like to brainstorm as a community to iterate on the design to make it safe, robust, and easy to maintain. Once I am satisfied with what we came up with, I will build it and continue to report on the build.

I will outline the build progressively with more details -- First, a general image showing the overall "vibe":SketchUp_zVdeJVHROH.png
The overall idea is to build a structure almost entirely out of concrete and have the batteries be underneath a "false floor' with removable panels for servicing. Each line of batteries is a 17s arrangement of 280Ah LifePO4 cells, with the Class T fuse at the positive end (not pictured) and the BMS at the negative end (pictured). The underneath of the batteries will need some kind of 1" or so subfloor on top of the concrete to redirect moisture so that in case a leak in the structure happens the batteries won't be sitting dipped in water. The false-floor "tiles" themselves will need to be fireproof as well (tile on some kind of cement fiberboard maybe?) and the vertical 2x4's that support them will need to be changed to something fireproof as well, I just don't know what yet. For the wall-side supports I was planning on using steel L channel though I worry about the potential for that to come loose and short out that closet row of batteries. Maybe a little lip detail molded directly into the concrete pour of the structure's wall?

The balance cables for the cells will be made of various gauges of magnet wire and will run underneath the cells in some kind of channel. The image shows them running beside instead of under since that is a design decision I changed/updated/iterated on but haven't updated in the 3D model yet. This was updated to accommodate the addition of the cement fiberboard between each row of cells. The reasoning for some of these choices is that I don't like normal thin insulated wire since the insulation is just flammable fuel in case something unexpected happens and magnet wire still has insulation on it but so little that there isn't much fuel for fire. The different gauges are because in this arrangement the furthest cell is quite far from the BMS and the closest is very close so there will need to be a variety of gauges of the balance wire to keep the BMS happy with the wire resistances to the cells (already tested/experimented with the JK BMS es I have for this and indeed it's necessary). They need to run underneath the cells because I want maintenance to be dead-simple. I don't want to untangle a rats nest of balance wires that run above the cells to pull a single cell out and replace it. The balance wires will come up between sequential cells and attach with an alligator clip to the bar that links cells. A lot of people around here bash on alligator clips for balance wires and that's something I don't understand -- you want the balancing and cell monitoring system to lean towards the failure side. For example, if an alligator clip accidently gets knocked off, the BMS will see 0 volts for that cell and disconnect. It's almost like a trip-wire system in that regard. I prefer to keep disconnect/safety sensory systems on the fail-sooner side than drilling a hole in a busbar for a super-solid connection for a balance wire that should never see more than 2A of current through it.

Each row has 17s LifePO4 (I prefer 17s to 16s in my experimentation because the voltage ranges for my inverters is happier with the slightly higher voltage range from 17s instead of 16s and all of my BMSes are up-to-20s anyway, and if you don't want the 17th cell you can remove it and run 16s instead). Between each row, there is a cement fiberboard (pictured at the very right there for just that 1 row but in the final build all rows will have them) and also a cement fiberboard fragment between each series cell as well (not pictured) with a small slit cut out for the cell-to-cell link to poke through and connect the cells in series to one another. This "interlinking" grid of cement fiberboard is to try to contain individual cell failures (think internal hard short) as much as possible.

The negative end of the pack and the positive end of the pack will be at complete opposite ends of the structure and I am considering using uninsulated wire to link everything to link everything together (past the Class T fuse on the + end and past the BMS on the - end) to a big 1000-2000A copper busbar on each end forming the positive and negative rails, using some kind of fire-proof but non-metallic bracket (not sure what) to mount it to the concrete walls of the structure. I want to avoid insulation since the only voltages in this building are 48V nominal (60V max) so they don't pose much shock hazard and insulation on wires is a huge fire fuel for any electrical faults.

Other thoughts are -- I want the building to have a ~4000-5000CFM explosion-proof all-metal ventilation fan that will turn on if smoke is detected (they cost about $1k) so that if a battery goes and starts venting the explosive vapors are expelled out of the before the air-fuel mixture reaches ignitable levels. The plans are to house all of the inverters and other electrical equipment outside of this structure so that a battery fire that destroys ~$40k of batteries doesn't also destroy another ~$30k of other electrical equipment.

Finally, I still haven't figured out what to use for battery heating for winter time or a general forced air ventilation option to keep air flowing into the under-the-false-floor chamber to keep the temperature consistent or whatnot and there's a lot of other details not figured out yet as well such as concerns about rodent damage and ease-of-inspection. I will answer questions and keep iterating on this for at least a few months before I begin building this. I welcome suggestions and a discussion around the design of this thing.
 
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If it’s a specific structure, why have the cells be at the lowest possible, just thinking of general debris that will settle down, plus flooding would be something I’d fear (no matter how dry you are, anything can flood)

I’d much rather have multiple racks and a height I won’t be standing on my head to service.
 
That’s an interesting project…

My thoughts as I was reading was to make/buy a 18s battery case from steel (only load the 17 cells. Assembly & test your battery on a workbench- drop it into its spot and plug in the cables. There will be minimal plastic stuff for insulation. Design so if you ever need to service that battery, you disconnect it - raise it up - place on a cart- and wheel to your workbench.

You could make a steel structure below to put the battery boxes on to raise them off the concrete floor. Slope your floor to one corner (without a battery there) and have water sensors and a sump pump.

Insulate your walls/ceiling well with Rockwool. But maybe only the first foot or so on the floor. Then the earth can keep your batteries warm in the winter (depends where you are). Add earth up the side of the exterior wall for extra free insulation.

Remember you only need to keep the batteries at 33F or 1C.

KISS - Keep It Simple and SERVICEABLE - the serviceable is the one I always mess up on.😩

Good Luck
 
@740GLE -- Your points are very valid and have been something on my mind as well. I was hoping the debris concern would be somewhat reduced from sweeping and maintenance of the "false floor" before removing the floor panels to service the battery. For the flooding, that's why I was thinking of putting in a 1-2" drainage system underneath the batteries if water were to get into the structure somehow (leaky roof, etc.). I live on the top of a big hill and there is no chance of flooding here other than leaky roof concerns or back wall being below grade and needing waterproofing/water diversion etc.

The problem with multiple racks and height is that with this arrangement of cells (long, thin) it becomes very difficult to work on the deeper layers of cells. To work comfortably you would need a LOT of clearance above each floor of cells which would prevent having very many tiers/"floors" of cells total. It also uses up wall space (originally with this design I was going to use the walls to mount all the inverters, etc. but I since decided to put those elsewhere). It's possible you have a smarter arrangement of cells in mind than me and I would love to entertain any ideas you have about the layout. The key feature to me is being able to pull literally any cell in the system without having to get any other cells out of the way to get to the cell you want to service. I also like that with the ground-based system I can bring two pieces of plywood with me when I am servicing a cell and cover up the hole in the ground from the removed panel and only expose the cell string I am working on while providing me a comfortable thing to sit on to do my work/maintenance.

@Rocketman -- Sloping and pump is a great idea and I will definitely incorporate that into the design. Based on the specs of the batteries the derating is quite severe for 1 degree C operation, I think I can only drain or charge at ~25A at that temperature, I need 10 degrees C for full operation if I remember the datasheet correctly. I am actually thinking of embedding the heating into the concrete floor slab together with insulation under the slab for large thermal mass and good insulation/heat retention. Rockwool is definitely my go-to for maximum fire resistance for wall or ceiling insulation.

Regarding the steel/metal -- I am a bit hesitant to include too much steel/metal because the cell walls are very thin and could easily short to it. There are a lot of disaster stories in the up-in-smoke board of this happening to people. It's possible to incorporate metal if I line it with concrete fiber board (and even thought about making a [concrete fiber board / steel plate / concrete fiber board] sandwich between the cells to add a heat dissipation/heat sinking layer in case of catastrophic failure of one of the cells but ultimately space constraints made me cut that. That said, this system will definitely be a build-in-place system instead of a "lift a 300lb 17s battery module in and out of place" system. I don't have the strength or the back to deal with lugging around heavy units. Also the geometry of each cell group being roughly 13 feet in length by only 3 11/16" in width makes for a very long unwieldy, expensive container.

<<edit>> @Rocketman I looked up the data sheet -- if I want to safely guarantee a 0.5C charging rate (so, 140A) I need to keep the cells between 15 degrees C and 50 degrees C. At 0 degrees C charging is not allowed and at 5 degrees C I am only allowed a 0.12C rate, so 33A. Extrapolating that to 1 degree C I would guess I am allowed only a sliver of current probably 2-4A. Attaching the relevant data sheet page:
chrome_2tmZPvwTMM.png

I think this is a common mistake people make with LifePO4. Many people think above freezing, all good, but really you should not be charging the full 1C rate unless they are at 25C/77F and only up to 0.5C if they are 15C/59F.


Finally, I also want to note that I am planning on 2 doors for emergency egress both outward swinging with panic bars, one at the front, and one one the left or right side (whichever side doesn't have the bus barring and interconnection stuff, etc.)
 
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I cant think of a single build that’s charging at 1c of a single bank.

Maybe some could do it if some battery strings are removed but I think majority is <.5C

As for racks having two rows of cells per 16s in the U congratulation limits long strings and allows both positive and negative terms to be located near each other.
 
Maybe some could do it if some battery strings are removed but I think majority is <.5C
I agree.

Some quick math of 274kWh with 17s is 18 battery packs. Even if you had 2x SolArk 15k's charging maxed at 275a, you are still only .1C charging that bank. Most of the time I'm betting will be .02-05C.

At 0 degrees C charging is not allowed and at 5 degrees C I am only allowed a 0.12C rate, so 33A. Extrapolating that to 1 degree C I would guess I am allowed only a sliver of current probably 2-4A.
Dont forget that 2-4a is PER PACK. So 18 packs = 36-72a.

Insulate the box well enough and I bet you will never have to worry about under temp. Self heating of the batteries is enough with enough insulation.
 
Background: I'm a heavy equipment operator and work on big iron with big batteries.
One constant fear/issue is the misplaced wrench, and no way would I build something that was primed for a dropped wrench. I'd rather have a central rack that you can walk around to work on them. That shortens up the reach issues.
 
I don't like the false floor. Too much dirt that drops onto the batteries.

I don't like uninsulated wires. The risk of an accidental short is worse than the insulation being fuel for a fire.

Good luck pulling one cell out. They should be packed tight, and under compression. A lot of work from the top.

Put a pack in a box, and the box on a shelf. If you need to service a pack, disconnect the cables, and slide the pack onto a hydraulic table. Then move it (or raise/lower) it to a convenient place (height).
 
^ you haven't lived until you drop a wrench onto some exposed conductors ^ FLASH Bzzrt lots of expletives burn your hand getting it out of there.
 
Another vote for shelves of batteries, walking around on top of your batteries in service of easier maintenance sounds backwards
 
I cant think of a single build that’s charging at 1c of a single bank.

Maybe some could do it if some battery strings are removed but I think majority is <.5C

As for racks having two rows of cells per 16s in the U congratulation limits long strings and allows both positive and negative terms to be located near each other.
I don't want positive and negative to be near each other. One of the whole points is to keep them far apart (11 feet apart) so that I don't have to worry about shorting them unless I feel like playing around with long pieces of rebar in the battery shed :) It also potentially allows for my insulation-less idea. All positives at one end of a concrete building, there's nothing to short, everything's at the same potential. Same for the negatives. They can even leave the building this wide apart if I so desire.

Regarding charge rates, I currently have 6 strings of 17s purchased, delivered, and ready to go, the remaining 12 strings will be slowly bought 1 or 2 strings per year and oldest string rotated out as needed once I have the full 18 in there. I am also slowly scaling my solar, currently I have 16kw of roof solar and I have 35 more 460w bifacials ready to install, so another 16kw. I've had my roof solar for 2 years now and it never peaks above 12kw and i expect the bifacials to do the same, so total solar I will have deployed shortly will be 24kw. 24kw into 6 strings is about 500A/6 = 83.3 A or a 0.3C charge rate. But I have to expect to potentially have 1 or 2 strings drop out and plan for that as well which then becomes 0.45C. I know I didn't provide these numbers originally but I already thought the post was very long so I am providing them now (late). The final system will have roughly 48kw of total solar and thus ~1000A charge rate maximum potentially which is roughly a 0.2C charge rate for the full 18 string build, but say 4 of those strings drop out for whatever reason and now worst case is a 0.25C charge rate, which puts my temperature requirement somewhere between 5 degrees C and 10 degrees C, probably 8 degrees C or so. I would say that my original statement that a 10 degrees C temperature floor target is quite right.

@Lt.Dan my full build worst case is ~48kw charge rate or ~1000A into the 18 banks once the system is fully built, or, the phase 1 target is ~24kw charge rate or ~500A into 6 banks before I expand the system to the full size a year or three down the line. So your estimate of 36-72A allowable is far too low for me. The system I am building is designed to run the house for about 5-6 days with no sun and on a nice sunny day potentially recharge a large chunk of the entire battery for another good number of days of no sun. It's definitely charge-rate heavy compared to a lot of other systems. My draw is quite small, very rarely over 3kw, only when charging an EV.

@skyking1 Yes, the wrench situation terrifies me, but unless my wrench is 11 feet long there's no way I'm shorting final positive to final negative due to the arrangement of the cells. Adjacent cells are roughly at the same potential give or take a few millivolts. I wrap black electrical tape over most of the exposed metal of all tools I use for battery work and I put a piece of kapton tape over each cell-to-cell connection for some additional protection for unforeseen metal surprises. So far, so good. While the central rack idea would work it would not allow me to have many cells total, I could only have 2 strings per level/"floor" if I want good accessibility with a reasonable height between levels. 2 because access from 1 side of center, and then 1 other side of center. If I go more than 2 strings now I have to reach over other cells to get at the layer that's deeper. At least that's how I'm envisioning the "center racking" arrangement. If I'm wrong and that doesn't match your vision, can you draw me a rough diagram? or link me somebody else's setup that matches what you are thinking about?

@DIYrich compression would not be possible with my arrangement of cells. I don't like the idea of compression especially for questionable results. If you lurk on the up-in-smoke board you'll find quite a few fires that, while speculative, potentially stem from compression stresses and/or rubbing against things. Experience with normal lithium batteries (cell phone, laptop, etc.) dictates to me that if a cell is trying to puff up it's dying and needs replacement. Cells aren't under compression in most things and not knowing if my cells are puffing up or not cause compression is hiding that fact to me is a no-go. If I see a puffy cell, it's getting replaced. I know that the data sheet shows more cycles if the cells are compressed (roughly 2X) but I could care less about taking an already awesome cycle count and trying to get even more out of it. Realistically calendar aging will be the largest factor of my cells' deterioration based on my calculations. As I mentioned to the others, an accidental short would need to be done with a metal rod like at least 10-11 feet long, that's how far apart my final positive and final negative are. All of the uninsulated stuff would be all that connecting together at the same potential, positives at one end of the structure, negatives at the other end. Think of it like bumper cars, the floor is 1 pole, and the ceiling is the other pole. Or like a train that uses the tracks for 1 pole and the arm to touch the other pole up above. It's safety by physical separation, you don't need insulation for that bare exposed metal in either of those cases. This is the kind of design I am trying to leverage here.

@wpns I am absolutely open to and entertaining a shelf option. I have looked at lots of peoples setups and systems all around this forum and tons of solar youtubers, and I don't like their arrangement of the cells on the shelves. If you want to suggest a specific one that you like I can look at it and maybe voice my concerns about the arrangement that maybe you can then address possibly could start a useful dialogue about that.
 
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If it’s a specific structure, why have the cells be at the lowest possible, just thinking of general debris that will settle down, plus flooding would be something I’d fear (no matter how dry you are, anything can flood)

I’d much rather have multiple racks and a height I won’t be standing on my head to service.
Exactly my first thought….I crawled around on hard flooring for 6 months on my knees building my system low…..I think I ruined them.. they still hurt…never low again… everything thigh to chest high…
 
My back hurts after reading this post.

That might also be from working on my battery bank though, which is on the floor already. My dream shed would be to have them at standing or seated height.
 
As I mentioned to the others, an accidental short would need to be done with a metal rod like at least 10-11 feet long, that's how far apart my final positive and final negative are.
It is, until it isn't. It is called an accident because it is not on purpose.

In any case, while the FINALs may be some distance apart, the in-between are only a few inches apart, and you can get a lot of amps, even if it just a few volts. Volts can jolt, but amps can kill you.
 
Have a great suggestion.

Hire a good architect and engineer who have experience with battery storage and solar distribution facilities . You’ll save a lot if time, money and aggravation.

Mike
 
Have a great suggestion.

Hire a good architect and engineer who have experience with battery storage and solar distribution facilities . You’ll save a lot if time, money and aggravation.

Mike
Is this not *DIY* Solar Forum for a reason? :) No thanks, I'm an Engineer myself (M.Eng in Computer Engineering) and I'd rather not quadruple my costs because of FUD. I am not aggravated at all, I'm just looking for suggestions or improvements or ideas to improve what I intend on building. There are already lots of useful suggestions that I appreciate.

It is, until it isn't. It is called an accident because it is not on purpose.

In any case, while the FINALs may be some distance apart, the in-between are only a few inches apart, and you can get a lot of amps, even if it just a few volts. Volts can jolt, but amps can kill you.
I think I need to clarify some things because I don't think everyone understands this layout and how shorting would manifest in my setup. It is certainly no worse than any other layout and unless I am mistaken it's better/safer than most other layouts in fact.

short1.png

Here is a view with the cement fiber boards in place -- You'll note that each string has essentially a concrete wall/well separating it from each other string. Maybe a metal C clamp could be dropped and wrap around that wall to short between the strings, but even then, as in the above picture, the voltages in the <-> direction are the same between the strings or maybe at most a few millivolts off. Wouldn't be a problem.

SketchUp_7cisugnPjj.png

Here I have added busbars to clarify a bit more how these are wired

SketchUp_zT7khSAUA3.png

Finally the "bad short" example is no different than anybody else's setup -- a 1 cell 3.2V short. For the "ok short" example, in most cases nothing would happen, unless maybe 1 string was discharged and out of service and another string fully charged, but still that would be a very unlikely scenario considering all the other protections. There is another scenario where a diagonal short could happen which would potentially end up with the string Class T's blowing and BMS'es disengaging but I think the worst scenario is still the 1 cell short since there's no fuse or BMS to disconnect such a short. But this kind of short risk is the same in all battery systems.
short 2.png

Finally, lets say I need to service string #3, I just pull the single panel I need to access the cell I need to swap, put 2 pieces plywood down to shield the strings I'm not working on, and then I can VERY safely work on just the one string. Here is a visual:
SketchUp_Eh20xnT3Bp.jpg

Also, @DIYrich don't get me started on the volts vs amps "debate". The volts determine how many amps go through you (given your body's resistance). While it's the amps that kill you it's the volts that determine how many amps will flow through you, and in this case 48V DC is considered quite safe to work with. Also, that fact has nothing to do with the layout of my system and applies to ALL battery energy systems.
 
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your visual needs to show you on your knees bent over. ergonomically it is brutal. The other issue is "out of sight out of mind".
I'll move on now, I've said my suggestions and have nothing else to add.
 
your visual needs to show you on your knees bent over. ergonomically it is brutal. The other issue is "out of sight out of mind".
I'll move on now, I've said my suggestions and have nothing else to add.
"out of sight out of mind" is a very valid concern. I was thinking of some kind of camera monitoring system on a track at both ends with a FLIR or equivalent added to my home assistant with hot spot max temps reported and alarmed on. Potentially just a FLIR cell phone attachment with a spare old phone I used on a little left/right moving track.

The ergonomics will depend on the person -- this position is comfortable for me. Hell, I can almost lay down sideways and do the work. No worse than leaning into a car's engine bay or working in the attic, which I have done a lot of both.
 
I have been lurking on these forums (especially in the up-in-smoke and LifePO4 DIY forums) and been learning a lot and thinking about a design for an unconventional battery shed that will probably stir up a lot of controversy but I have specific design requirements that I will outline and would like to brainstorm as a community to iterate on the design to make it safe, robust, and easy to maintain. Once I am satisfied with what we came up with, I will build it and continue to report on the build.

I will outline the build progressively with more details -- First, a general image showing the overall "vibe":View attachment 216211
The overall idea is to build a structure almost entirely out of concrete and have the batteries be underneath a "false floor' with removable panels for servicing. Each line of batteries is a 17s arrangement of 280Ah LifePO4 cells, with the Class T fuse at the positive end (not pictured) and the BMS at the negative end (pictured). The underneath of the batteries will need some kind of 1" or so subfloor on top of the concrete to redirect moisture so that in case a leak in the structure happens the batteries won't be sitting dipped in water. The false-floor "tiles" themselves will need to be fireproof as well (tile on some kind of cement fiberboard maybe?) and the vertical 2x4's that support them will need to be changed to something fireproof as well, I just don't know what yet. For the wall-side supports I was planning on using steel L channel though I worry about the potential for that to come loose and short out that closet row of batteries. Maybe a little lip detail molded directly into the concrete pour of the structure's wall?

The balance cables for the cells will be made of various gauges of magnet wire and will run underneath the cells in some kind of channel. The image shows them running beside instead of under since that is a design decision I changed/updated/iterated on but haven't updated in the 3D model yet. This was updated to accommodate the addition of the cement fiberboard between each row of cells. The reasoning for some of these choices is that I don't like normal thin insulated wire since the insulation is just flammable fuel in case something unexpected happens and magnet wire still has insulation on it but so little that there isn't much fuel for fire. The different gauges are because in this arrangement the furthest cell is quite far from the BMS and the closest is very close so there will need to be a variety of gauges of the balance wire to keep the BMS happy with the wire resistances to the cells (already tested/experimented with the JK BMS es I have for this and indeed it's necessary). They need to run underneath the cells because I want maintenance to be dead-simple. I don't want to untangle a rats nest of balance wires that run above the cells to pull a single cell out and replace it. The balance wires will come up between sequential cells and attach with an alligator clip to the bar that links cells. A lot of people around here bash on alligator clips for balance wires and that's something I don't understand -- you want the balancing and cell monitoring system to lean towards the failure side. For example, if an alligator clip accidently gets knocked off, the BMS will see 0 volts for that cell and disconnect. It's almost like a trip-wire system in that regard. I prefer to keep disconnect/safety sensory systems on the fail-sooner side than drilling a hole in a busbar for a super-solid connection for a balance wire that should never see more than 2A of current through it.

Each row has 17s LifePO4 (I prefer 17s to 16s in my experimentation because the voltage ranges for my inverters is happier with the slightly higher voltage range from 17s instead of 16s and all of my BMSes are up-to-20s anyway, and if you don't want the 17th cell you can remove it and run 16s instead). Between each row, there is a cement fiberboard (pictured at the very right there for just that 1 row but in the final build all rows will have them) and also a cement fiberboard fragment between each series cell as well (not pictured) with a small slit cut out for the cell-to-cell link to poke through and connect the cells in series to one another. This "interlinking" grid of cement fiberboard is to try to contain individual cell failures (think internal hard short) as much as possible.

The negative end of the pack and the positive end of the pack will be at complete opposite ends of the structure and I am considering using uninsulated wire to link everything to link everything together (past the Class T fuse on the + end and past the BMS on the - end) to a big 1000-2000A copper busbar on each end forming the positive and negative rails, using some kind of fire-proof but non-metallic bracket (not sure what) to mount it to the concrete walls of the structure. I want to avoid insulation since the only voltages in this building are 48V nominal (60V max) so they don't pose much shock hazard and insulation on wires is a huge fire fuel for any electrical faults.

Other thoughts are -- I want the building to have a ~4000-5000CFM explosion-proof all-metal ventilation fan that will turn on if smoke is detected (they cost about $1k) so that if a battery goes and starts venting the explosive vapors are expelled out of the before the air-fuel mixture reaches ignitable levels. The plans are to house all of the inverters and other electrical equipment outside of this structure so that a battery fire that destroys ~$40k of batteries doesn't also destroy another ~$30k of other electrical equipment.

Finally, I still haven't figured out what to use for battery heating for winter time or a general forced air ventilation option to keep air flowing into the under-the-false-floor chamber to keep the temperature consistent or whatnot and there's a lot of other details not figured out yet as well such as concerns about rodent damage and ease-of-inspection. I will answer questions and keep iterating on this for at least a few months before I begin building this. I welcome suggestions and a discussion around the design of this thing.
At the end of the day..this is your idea for a build and have reasons for your approach to the build...what I'd like to ask is why have them underneath the floor...?
 
I have been lurking on these forums (especially in the up-in-smoke and LifePO4 DIY forums) and been learning a lot and thinking about a design for an unconventional battery shed that will probably stir up a lot of controversy but I have specific design requirements that I will outline and would like to brainstorm as a community to iterate on the design to make it safe, robust, and easy to maintain. Once I am satisfied with what we came up with, I will build it and continue to report on the build.

I will outline the build progressively with more details -- First, a general image showing the overall "vibe":View attachment 216211
The overall idea is to build a structure almost entirely out of concrete and have the batteries be underneath a "false floor' with removable panels for servicing. Each line of batteries is a 17s arrangement of 280Ah LifePO4 cells, with the Class T fuse at the positive end (not pictured) and the BMS at the negative end (pictured). The underneath of the batteries will need some kind of 1" or so subfloor on top of the concrete to redirect moisture so that in case a leak in the structure happens the batteries won't be sitting dipped in water. The false-floor "tiles" themselves will need to be fireproof as well (tile on some kind of cement fiberboard maybe?) and the vertical 2x4's that support them will need to be changed to something fireproof as well, I just don't know what yet. For the wall-side supports I was planning on using steel L channel though I worry about the potential for that to come loose and short out that closet row of batteries. Maybe a little lip detail molded directly into the concrete pour of the structure's wall?

The balance cables for the cells will be made of various gauges of magnet wire and will run underneath the cells in some kind of channel. The image shows them running beside instead of under since that is a design decision I changed/updated/iterated on but haven't updated in the 3D model yet. This was updated to accommodate the addition of the cement fiberboard between each row of cells. The reasoning for some of these choices is that I don't like normal thin insulated wire since the insulation is just flammable fuel in case something unexpected happens and magnet wire still has insulation on it but so little that there isn't much fuel for fire. The different gauges are because in this arrangement the furthest cell is quite far from the BMS and the closest is very close so there will need to be a variety of gauges of the balance wire to keep the BMS happy with the wire resistances to the cells (already tested/experimented with the JK BMS es I have for this and indeed it's necessary). They need to run underneath the cells because I want maintenance to be dead-simple. I don't want to untangle a rats nest of balance wires that run above the cells to pull a single cell out and replace it. The balance wires will come up between sequential cells and attach with an alligator clip to the bar that links cells. A lot of people around here bash on alligator clips for balance wires and that's something I don't understand -- you want the balancing and cell monitoring system to lean towards the failure side. For example, if an alligator clip accidently gets knocked off, the BMS will see 0 volts for that cell and disconnect. It's almost like a trip-wire system in that regard. I prefer to keep disconnect/safety sensory systems on the fail-sooner side than drilling a hole in a busbar for a super-solid connection for a balance wire that should never see more than 2A of current through it.

Each row has 17s LifePO4 (I prefer 17s to 16s in my experimentation because the voltage ranges for my inverters is happier with the slightly higher voltage range from 17s instead of 16s and all of my BMSes are up-to-20s anyway, and if you don't want the 17th cell you can remove it and run 16s instead). Between each row, there is a cement fiberboard (pictured at the very right there for just that 1 row but in the final build all rows will have them) and also a cement fiberboard fragment between each series cell as well (not pictured) with a small slit cut out for the cell-to-cell link to poke through and connect the cells in series to one another. This "interlinking" grid of cement fiberboard is to try to contain individual cell failures (think internal hard short) as much as possible.

The negative end of the pack and the positive end of the pack will be at complete opposite ends of the structure and I am considering using uninsulated wire to link everything to link everything together (past the Class T fuse on the + end and past the BMS on the - end) to a big 1000-2000A copper busbar on each end forming the positive and negative rails, using some kind of fire-proof but non-metallic bracket (not sure what) to mount it to the concrete walls of the structure. I want to avoid insulation since the only voltages in this building are 48V nominal (60V max) so they don't pose much shock hazard and insulation on wires is a huge fire fuel for any electrical faults.

Other thoughts are -- I want the building to have a ~4000-5000CFM explosion-proof all-metal ventilation fan that will turn on if smoke is detected (they cost about $1k) so that if a battery goes and starts venting the explosive vapors are expelled out of the before the air-fuel mixture reaches ignitable levels. The plans are to house all of the inverters and other electrical equipment outside of this structure so that a battery fire that destroys ~$40k of batteries doesn't also destroy another ~$30k of other electrical equipment.

Finally, I still haven't figured out what to use for battery heating for winter time or a general forced air ventilation option to keep air flowing into the under-the-false-floor chamber to keep the temperature consistent or whatnot and there's a lot of other details not figured out yet as well such as concerns about rodent damage and ease-of-inspection. I will answer questions and keep iterating on this for at least a few months before I begin building this. I welcome suggestions and a discussion around the design of this thing.
If one of your requirements is easy access,then another approach could be to utilise ancient technology..that being the wheel...for example racks that give you access at a workable level...that can be unplugged using an Anderson socket/plug,and wheeled out to work on giving you access to all sides..then wheeled back into place...
 
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