Flexible Solar Panels (connectors under panel)

[builds_love]

Seeking to find 200W flexible solar panels with cables coming from the bottom.

I have a very tall build (13 feet), the top of the box mounted to the truck chassis which was a former Street Sweeper. I have tested out a Renogy 200W Flexible Solar Panels which have been working well. The cable comes from the top of the panel which will get hooked by cables overhead and tree branches. Damage has occurred and needed to soldered ripped connections and use 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive to make them more secure. (pfft)

I would like to create the most streamlined panel layout using flexible solar panels, zero ridges (connectors on bottom). I will be creating UV-resistant plastic standoffs to give the panels a proper air gap, with this said I am looking for cables to come out from the bottom of the panel like most rigid panels offer.

One idea if I can't find panels is to drill a hole near the cables and pull the panel cable to the bottom of the panel for electrical hookup and strengthen with Marine Adhesive.

P.S. I tried using Google to search "site:diysolarforum.com flexible solar panels" and read everything I could find before posting this message. Is there a strong reason the flexible panels have the connectors on top for most manufacturers?

 

[sunshine_eggo]

I would like to create the most streamlined panel layout using flexible solar panels, zero ridges (connectors on bottom). I will be creating UV-resistant plastic standoffs to give the panels a proper air gap, with this said I am looking for cables to come out from the bottom of the panel like most rigid panels offer.

And what do you consider a proper air gap to be?

P.S. I tried using Google to search "site:diysolarforum.com flexible solar panels" and read everything I could find before posting this message. Is there a strong reason the flexible panels have the connectors on top for most manufacturers?

Yes. Because flexible panels are typically chosen to be mounted flush on flat or curved surface. Connectors on the bottom surface would make them pointless.

If this is for aerodynamic concerns, they aren't valid concerns. The airflow along the roof is detached and turbulent. YOu might as well put wings on a brick.

If this is for stealth concerns, why not use thin frame conventional panels and build a "fence" around the roof perimeter to hide what's on top from lower viewing.

 

[builds_love]

Linked added to my post, they were removed on submission. I can fit 9-12 panels on the top of the 14' box. If you know of any flexible panels with connectors under the panels this would be most important. @sunshine_eggo to answer you line items in order.

1. Air gap link added, above.
2. Pointless, right.
3. I did not bring up anything about aerodynamic, trying to reduce solar panel piece which could be caught.
4. blah, stealth?

Number 3, has been the largest issue or concern and will continue with forests and jungles.

 

[MattiFin]

I’m affraid you are chasing unicorns here.

Conventional panels sounds much better idea especially if you attempt to mount flexible panels with air gap. You would need some backing plate like aluminium, glassfiber or glass sheet and you get that for ”free” with rigid panels.

Plus flexibles are notoriously failure-prone and 5 to 10 times more expensive.
Only reason I’d consider flexible panels is curved surface or extreme weight limitations.

 

[0truck0]

There is the diode in that little box too, or something. You will have to buy one and make modifications yourself if you want it.

Others are right, this is dumb. Im not trying be mean, this is dumb and your reasoning is invalid.
Use glass panels!!! Flex panels are for dire situations, not your situation. Use glass panels.

You will see almost ZERO aerodynamic difference from a little bit thicker glass panel and the flex panel. Zero is pretty small.

Trying put air gap under a flex panel is difficult, these are meant to be surface mounted where the surface itself can keep the panel cool. Yours will not.
You are not driving a sports car. Your aerodynamics are NOT laminar. Until you create a soap bubble shape on your truck roof then dont bother thinking a thinner panel will make any difference.

Snagging trees? Use a glass panel. These are mounted to strong aluminum frames. They will highly resist being damaged by a branch. The mech holding it to the roof will rip long before the panel is damaged. Put a deflector at the front edge of panels to help branches sweep over the top. The sides are much less of a concern.