diy solar

diy solar

Help comparing 3 Solar Project Bids

OP said he won't want battery. Therefore only cost-effectiveness and reliability (and maybe aesthetics) matter.

But we have to help him determine if installing PV is a good or bad idea.
And address net metering vs. zero export.


Yes, those are both AC coupled. One is a high voltage string inverter, the other apparently microinverters.
But this doesn't mean much unless it gets coupled to a battery. They are both grid interactive, which is all that matters.
In a hybrid, then you can consider HV DC coupling vs. LV through the battery circuit. Some hybrids are batteries-optional. Maybe all of those couple with HV DC internally?

Some such hybrids are competitively priced, could also work for OP even if no battery. But tier-1 hybrids cost a premium, and he's looking at quotes for tier-1 GT PV inverters.
 
The microinverters are probably the best bet if trying to limit failure of one piece taking out the whole setup. Except, the Enphase type microinverters PROBABLY have some central control box that tells them whether to run or not (maybe it's just for monitoring and not required). Normally that box would probably cost less than the centralized inverter on the SolarEdge system.. but Enphase isn't exactly known for cheap pricing, so maybe not.
 
cs1234 said:
The microinverters are probably the best bet if trying to limit failure of one piece taking out the whole setup. Except, the Enphase type microinverters PROBABLY have some central control box that tells them whether to run or not (maybe it's just for monitoring and not required). Normally that box would probably cost less than the centralized inverter on the SolarEdge system.. but Enphase isn't exactly known for cheap pricing, so maybe not.
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It’s mostly for monitoring and warranty/following installation instructions so you are code legit. They’ll happily power up and RSD without it.

OP’s quotes have a lot of chrome plate on it — the two most expensive grid tie system types and an expensive racking type.
 
AC coupled means the input to the inverter or battery is actually AC current and this almost always comes from an array with microinverters.
DC coupled means the input to the inverter or batteries is direct current DC. This is almost always sourced directly from the panels themselves, a combiner box or via panel mounted DC optimizers to correct for shading. In almost every case, the use of DC panel shade optimizers requires a compatible inverter to accept the output of the optimizers. You simply cannot for example install Solar Edge panel optimizers and then hook up to say a Outback Power charge controller. There are compatibility issues.

String inverters are inverters that connect a large number of panels in a single string to the voltage input limitations of the inverter as well as amperage limits. They then invert this DC source into AC power and the output is sent into the grid or your utility panel via a breaker and the buss bar. They are called string inverters because they historically just used a single array of panels connected in a serial string to supply power output to the grid or local consumption. In the simplest form, their input is DC, but the term DC coupled is not really used to apply to them. DC and AC coupled are terms used to describe the input electricity of panels and arrays into inverters and charge controllers that offer more features than a simple string inverter. AC coupled only arose after many installations of Enphase microinverters and sites with those found that they too wanted more flexibility and the availability to install batteries.
 
I have a new Solar Edge system on my house with Iron ridge racking, and have been very pleased with it. I'm in Illinois where REC's are valued at $82/MWH. I also have one to one net metering, so I use the utility as my "Battery". Be very careful what the salesmen tell you because most have no clue.

Is your price installed?
 
glandpuck said:
AC coupled only arose after many installations of Enphase microinverters and sites with those found that they too wanted more flexibility and the availability to install batteries.
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This is not accurate. One of the string companies, SMA I believe, pioneered AC coupling.

Also AC coupling is used broadly in utility scale solar storage, and they could be using a bank of strings or microinverters.
 
What is the reason someone taking a turnkey install will care about IronRidge? As a DIY install it is nice that IronRidge comes in 7 ft factory lengths and simpler mechanical engineering parameters, and the parts sure are nicer.

(My opinion after doing DIY with SolarMount Lightrail)

If you pay someone to put them up, they do all the install, own trucks, get deliveries from distributor and supply house. Homeowner never touches them so you don’t see the superior design.

Something to do with believing in better leak resilience?
 
jjww said:
FYI, solaredge optimizers CAN'T be used outside solaredge inverters- your a captive customer with no way out
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That isn't really much different than the microinverters. You could buy a hybrid inverter with ac coupling and use that with the solaredge inverter just like could with the microinverters.

The only thing that wouldn't really lock you in would be starting with a hybrid solar inverter with dc string panels.
 
cs1234 said:
That isn't really much different than the microinverters. You could buy a hybrid inverter with ac coupling and use that with the solaredge inverter just like could with the microinverters.

The only thing that wouldn't really lock you in would be starting with a hybrid solar inverter with dc string panels.
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SolarEdge could go under, and then your inverter breaks, and you can’t find a replacement because your used equipment hustle is not good enough.

SolarEdge may have more geopolitical vulnerability. Probably doesn’t matter.

With Enphase your system doesn’t all die at once in as many possible futures.

However Enphase IQ8 has a huge amount of FUD about exactly how well they can AC couple. So it’s not risk free either.
 
Farm Boy said:
Sense your close to the lake, I'd consider a ground mount system if you have the space. Easy to get lake snow off.
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Actually just below Sandusky, not in the snow belt, which starts east of Cleveland. Where in Ohio are you? Can you recommend any installers? thanks, Bob
 
Mike 134 said:
I have a new Solar Edge system on my house with Iron ridge racking, and have been very pleased with it. I'm in Illinois where REC's are valued at $82/MWH. I also have one to one net metering, so I use the utility as my "Battery". Be very careful what the salesmen tell you because most have no clue.

Is your price installed?
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Mike, yes prices are installed but do not take into account the 30% federal tax credit which brings A. $18,183 - $5,454 = $12,729 and B. $20,160 - $6,048 = $14,112
 
In June, 2023, we were looking at a new construction home built by Beazer. the Sun World included system of about 7k was priced at 22K to purchase at closing or more if financed. So you price is ok I guess.
 
flyakite said:
Actually just below Sandusky, not in the snow belt, which starts east of Cleveland. Where in Ohio are you? Can you recommend any installers? thanks, Bob
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I'm west of you at the IN/OH border. I can't recommend any but there is one around Wapakoneta my neibor used some time ago. It's a small out fit, don't know the name but you can google for that area to see, They did a ground mount system grid tied and is pretty nice. They spent 20k for there system with no storage, just a reduction of the current electric bill. Take your time and research a lot before you sign any contract and check with zoning around you first. Good luck.
 
In your case, you really are having a hard time to find a company you can rely upon. You may wish to take a different approach. First off, you could hire a solar engineer. This professional would perform a site visit and consult with what your needs and objectives are in installing and operating a PV system. They they would draw out the plans for permitting. With the help of the plans and the permitting, you can hire an electrical contractor to build out the system. If there is a company like CED Greentech near you or other solar distributors, you can use the licenses of the electrical contractor or solar engineer to obtain the necessary parts for the job at wholesale installer prices and pay the invoices directly. You may even be able to supply some assistant labor yourself to the electrician. You can pay the electrician by the job in total or hourly. There are many persons on this site to advise you on hardware for the system.
 
flyakite said:
Actually just below Sandusky, not in the snow belt, which starts east of Cleveland. Where in Ohio are you? Can you recommend any installers? thanks, Bob
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In the beginning, I went to www.energysaga.com They asked several questions and then gave me 2 company quotes from companies. Neither gave me the quotes I was asking for but instead it was based on my usage of my utility bill. Over all, these bids gave me a show of where they were going to place the panels and a list of the items with a price. Although I thought it was too much at the time it included installing and gave me a mind set of what I could get for those prices.
I took that info and came about my own system. Solar is addictive once you get some of it hooked up so be care full on your budget and over all desire. There design was grid tied but as for me I was looking for off grid. Not promoting any one but Watts 24/7 is where I bought my first inverter with good results. Then I came to discover Signature Solar, and they gave me even more help in determining my panel voltages and strings. Over all I have the same or more in my system than the first 2 quotes and had to do all the work my self but my system consists of a large storage which was not included with the first 2 quotes. So I saved a lot over all. Storage is probable your biggest expense so going with a grid tied only system should cost much less overall.
 
flyakite said:
Mike, yes prices are installed but do not take into account the 30% federal tax credit which brings A. $18,183 - $5,454 = $12,729 and B. $20,160 - $6,048 = $14,112
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From what I understand on the 30% tax credit which you can research your self, you need to owe tax in order to get the credit. You don't actually get a check back but a reduction on you taxes that you would other wise owe. You only get the credit once and the system needs to be installed and running first to claim it in that year.
 
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