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diy solar

I put that sh.,.stuff on everything

Bluedog225

Texas
Joined
Nov 18, 2019
Messages
2,974
I’ve been putting dielectric grease on every connection I make.

I put in wire before crimping on lugs, I put it on busbars before landing the lugs, I put it inside my solar panel connectors, no put it on my battery terminal, I put it on the electrical plugs on my jeep when I’m replacing a light, etc.

As far as I can tell from looking around on the googles, this is never a mistake. Does anybody disagree?
 
I’ve been putting dielectric grease on every connection I make.

I put in wire before crimping on lugs, I put it on busbars before landing the lugs, I put it inside my solar panel connectors, no put it on my battery terminal, I put it on the electrical plugs on my jeep when I’m replacing a light, etc.

As far as I can tell from looking around on the googles, this is never a mistake. Does anybody disagree?
Just remember that dielectric grease doesn't conduct electric. You probably already know that, but most people don't. It's made for sealing a connection and stopping corrosion, but it can hinder electrical contact points.
 
... but it can hinder electrical contact points.
How?
Do you think this stuff stay in place, between lug and busbar, when you apply torque and the resulting pressure is 1-4 tons for M6-M12 screw?
I mean, of course the grease will move and the contact will be metal-metal with grease around who seal the contact.
 
The only place I'd be careful with dilectric grease is on something like the "push to connect" type 120V connections you see on something like a Victron. IMHO, there's not enough clamp force to necessarily push past the grease to get a good metal/metal contact. Wire nuts, for sure. I don't put any on my battery terminals, too low voltage, if you really want to grease them, I'd make the connection and then apply grease over the top of it, not before the metal/metal connection is made.

But, in general, I'm with you. More grease is more better. ;)
 
How?
Do you think this stuff stay in place, between lug and busbar, when you apply torque and the resulting pressure is 1-4 tons for M6-M12 screw?
I mean, of course the grease will move and the contact will be metal-metal with grease around who seal the contact.
Absolutely. Probably not enough to worry about, but metal is porous so there will always be traces. It is designed to seal out moisture and outside atmospheric conditions. It is non conductive and made of petroleum and silicone.
 
I personally would not put dialectic on a lug before placing and tightening it.
I don't use anything on my inside battery banks as it is a controlled atmosphere. I use battery terminal spray protector on my car and motorcycle batteries after I make a good clean contact. It keeps them from corroding.
 
I haven’t found support for the idea that the resulting connection will have higher resistance due to dielectric grease. Either initially or over time. I get the idea that over time, less oxidation means better conductivity.

I’m hoping someone with a deep electronics background will weigh in.
 

Looks like an ever ongoing debate. Some of us say don't be putting nonconductive grease between the contacts. Others say don't worry it will squeeze out.

I feel pretty strongly I don't want it in there, but it doesn't seem like the squeeze out crowd is getting proved wrong about it either. Probably works fine.
 
For those who want conductive grease: Mg chem 847
847 is a carbon-filled, silicone-free conductive paste. It improves electrical connections between non-moving parts in the same way a thermal paste improves thermal connections.
But $$
 
Why not just use tin plated wire cabling and eye lugs instead? That's marine grade and corrosion shouldn't be a problem.

I do see a lot of people still using bare copper lugs and cabling.
 
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