diy solar

diy solar

Luyuan battery case

ArthurEld said:
Guys, I'm having trouble with these ferrules. I'm starting to wonder if we should just put the wire in the breaker.
I'm using 2 AWG welding cable. Can someone please show me what you are doing?View attachment 211678
Click to expand...

You don't need ferrules for that type of mechanical clamp terminal, It won't damage the strands unlike a direct screw 'choc block', if anything you'll minimise any increased resistance risk from possible poorly crimped ferrule, and get a better contact surface area than a thick uncompressible hard ferrule, only the super thin copper ferrules can be clamped securely at these larger gauge sizes if you really want to use them.
 
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Alarchist said:
You don't need ferrules for that type of mechanical clamp terminal, It won't damage the strands unlike a direct screw 'choc block', if anything you'll minimise any increased resistance risk from possible poorly crimped ferrule, and get a better conduct surface area than a thick hard ferrule, only the super thin copper ferrules can be clamped securely at these larger gauge sizes.
Click to expand...

The crimper I bought looks like the shape of the clamp on the breaker. But the ferrule doesn't turn out the same shape as the crimper.
I put the crimped ferrule in the breaker and tightened it as tight as I could but I was able to pull the wire out of the breaker by wiggling it around. It wasn't easy to get out but it did come out. I tried it with just wire and wiggling it back and forth I could get it out about the same as the one with the ferrule.
I agree that the electrical connection seems like it would be better with just the wire.
Thanks for the replies.
 
ArthurEld said:
The crimper I bought looks like the shape of the clamp on the breaker. But the ferrule doesn't turn out the same shape as the crimper.
I put the crimped ferrule in the breaker and tightened it as tight as I could but I was able to pull the wire out of the breaker by wiggling it around. It wasn't easy to get out but it did come out. I tried it with just wire and wiggling it back and forth I could get it out about the same as the one with the ferrule.
I agree that the electrical connection seems like it would be better with just the wire.
Thanks for the replies.
Click to expand...
Well that was easy, I not going to worry about the ferrules. I have an infrared cam and I will pull 200amp and see how it goes.
 
I have both types of ferules supplied. 1) the Copper Ring one which can be crimped with a 20mm die (leaves little wings) and I recrimp with 16mm dies. Using an 8T Hydraulic jobbie. The new ones Amy just sent me, are the Tin ones with collar (thinner) and same dies to crimp. NB I am using 4-AWG Silicone Wire.

Just finished case-1 and there were a few adventures in completing it, nothing serious just extra time (3 hours ugh).

Below is a JK-BMS Inverter Edition Diagram which provides a bit more clarity. THIS IS UPDATED from a previous one I had posted, I have to find & replace that.

1714180399346.png
 
S Davis said:
Thanks that is about half of what I have been finding them for. On a off chance I am having my local Allphase check on pricing, usually I can find stuff cheaper on line though even having an account with them for over 20 years.

View attachment 208002

My EriFlex arrived, just need to figure out where it goes.
Click to expand...
Drilling this isn’t much fun if you’re a perfectionist like me. After some tests the best way I’ve found is to use a step drill. The holes are much cleaner with a step drill bit vs regular bits.Use a center punch then your smallest drill bit, go up one bit size at a time until your step drill tip will fit in the hole. After drilling use a deburring tool. If you’re going to bend it, make the bends before you drill. If you have to bend it after, drill one end…put a nut and bolt in the hole…then bend. This way will help keep the layers from becoming unaligned.
 
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yoopNreb said:
Drilling this isn’t much fun if you’re a perfectionist like me. After some tests the best way I’ve found is to use a step drill. The holes are much cleaner with a step drill bit vs regular bits.Use a center punch then your smallest drill bit, go up one bit size at a time until your step drill tip will fit in the hole. After drilling use a deburring tool. If you’re going to bend it, make the bends before you drill. If you have to bend it after, drill one end…put a nut and bolt in the hole…then bend. This way will help keep the layers from becoming unaligned.
Click to expand...
I am just gonna spend for the tool, I used it on my mobile packs and it was a challenge not to get burs.

2524749B-544B-448F-AAD0-89E1FB68A082.jpeg
 
The class T fuse is between the battery positive terminal and the breaker. I beat myself up deciding how to mount it.
I attached a couple blocks of wood to the top of the inner plate that holds to BMS. Then screwed the class T fuse holder to the blocks.
Turned out to be easy.
SoggyShoes said:
Those look sweet! Amy said my cases should be done this week.
@ArthurEld do you have both the breaker that Amy supplied and the t-class fuse in there? If so what order did you install them?
Click to expand...
 
ArthurEld said:
I finally finished putting my first battery together in the new case. I got the class T fuse in there too.View attachment 212282View attachment 212283View attachment 212284Love this cart
View attachment 212285
Click to expand...
Working on my pair in my free time. The hole for the breaker was too small so had to modify that. I'm using the older JK BMS so I'm fabricating a plate and using standoffs to mount it. Class T might be fastened to the side of the case. I'm waiting on some 6AWG terminals for the BMS leads.

Had to unbox 24 boxes of cells yesterday, shop had cardboard and foam all over the place.
 
ArthurEld said:
The class T fuse is between the battery positive terminal and the breaker. I beat myself up deciding how to mount it.
I attached a couple blocks of wood to the top of the inner plate that holds to BMS. Then screwed the class T fuse holder to the blocks.
Turned out to be easy.
Click to expand...
I wired mine breaker first to use as disconnect switch, no load. Can shut off breaker and replace or change fuse.
 
Zwy said:
Working on my pair in my free time. The hole for the breaker was too small so had to modify that. I'm using the older JK BMS so I'm fabricating a plate and using standoffs to mount it. Class T might be fastened to the side of the case. I'm waiting on some 6AWG terminals for the BMS leads.

Had to unbox 24 boxes of cells yesterday, shop had cardboard and foam all over the place.
Click to expand...
I thought about the insulating value of all the foam and considered using it in my un insulated garage, but I think it is pretty flammable.
 
S Davis said:
I thought about the insulating value of all the foam and considered using it in my un insulated garage, but I think it is pretty flammable.
Click to expand...
It is very flammable, my wife burned it this morning in about 3 minutes. :ROFLMAO:
 
ArthurEld said:
Took me a minute to understand what you are saying. I see EN for English
Click to expand...
I had a mini panic of my own when i fired mine up thinking I’d need to sift through multiple jk display firmwares then find a way to kludge a usb to RS485 to update my $30 jk display.

Then I just hit that button. lol
 
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