Old but new controller

[Wilber256]

Hello all, Thanks for allowing me into the group. Appears to be full of a ton of knowledge.
please forgive me if this question is out of place. I have been searching the web and here for answers but none yet.
I have a LYNCOM model N25T with timer controller that has been lost for 20-25 years.

Well I found it today in the original box in perfect condition. I am wanting to hook it to a 60 watt 20v panel (also old) then to an inverter to power a .06 amp 120v AC swimming pool pump to add oxygen to my catfish pond.
they are dying and only thing I can come up with is lack of oxygen. We have lost either 9 or 10 in the past week.

Now for my question(s). The controller came with or I lost the instructions/user manual on how to set it up. I can find a spec sheet on the web but no info on how to set battery voltage, type etc. Also it came with two THM 6072, what I suppose are heat sinks.
Can anyone tell me how to change the batt type to SLA or how to and or where these two THM 6072 goes?

Guys I really need help, I can’t science out how these puppies hook up. Each one has two terminals with a red dot on one terminal on both sinks. I am a disabled senior and about worked myself to bed trying to get some oxygen for the fish.
My Kids and Grandkids love to fish down there and what a delight to see one hang a 10 pound cat for a fight.

Any and all suggestions or recommendations are greatly appreciated. If you need pics I will send them if I can figure out how to post them on this forum.
This looks like a place of learning about what I have had a passion about for 50 years. If y’all will except me, Then I am gonna hang around until you run me off.
Thanks

 

[MichaelK]

In the past, with items where there was no plus/minus indicator on terminals, I popped open the unit and traced the wiring which was color coded black and red. So, I assumed red was plus and black was minus, hooked it up that way and it worked.

You can try starting with 14.4V as the max charging voltage, and inch your way up from there is that doesn't appear to be optimal.

Keep in mind that the inverter itself might consume more power just being on 24/7 compared to the pump. You may find yourself needing a larger panel to supply enough power for both the pump, and the inverter.

Pics of each component will really be helpful.

 

[Handymanny916]

Hello all, Thanks for allowing me into the group. Appears to be full of a ton of knowledge.
please forgive me if this question is out of place. I have been searching the web and here for answers but none yet.
I have a LYNCOM model N25T with timer controller that has been lost for 20-25 years.

Well I found it today in the original box in perfect condition. I am wanting to hook it to a 60 watt 20v panel (also old) then to an inverter to power a .06 amp 120v AC swimming pool pump to add oxygen to my catfish pond.
they are dying and only thing I can come up with is lack of oxygen. We have lost either 9 or 10 in the past week.

Now for my question(s). The controller came with or I lost the instructions/user manual on how to set it up. I can find a spec sheet on the web but no info on how to set battery voltage, type etc. Also it came with two THM 6072, what I suppose are heat sinks.
Can anyone tell me how to change the batt type to SLA or how to and or where these two THM 6072 goes?

Guys I really need help, I can’t science out how these puppies hook up. Each one has two terminals with a red dot on one terminal on both sinks. I am a disabled senior and about worked myself to bed trying to get some oxygen for the fish.
My Kids and Grandkids love to fish down there and what a delight to see one hang a 10 pound cat for a fight.

Any and all suggestions or recommendations are greatly appreciated. If you need pics I will send them if I can figure out how to post them on this forum.
This looks like a place of learning about what I have had a passion about for 50 years. If y’all will except me, Then I am gonna hang around until you run me off.
Thanks

 

[Handymanny916]

Waterfall or aeration to water

 

[Wilber256]

Thanks MichaelK, Attached are some pics of the controller and heat sink? May be shunts of some sort.
Hopefully you can make out the pics. I shake rather badly, like a dog passing a peach seed.
The top has 2 holes but I can’t see any type switch or adjustment. They are not in line with the labels “Flooded Batt” and “Sealed Batt” but assume they are for that purpose.
also on top is what appears to be either a parallel or serial port. To the left of the port is a hole that could possibly have a slide switch in it.

I can’t really tell if it’s a switch or just a black stub. This hole is located between the Flooded and Sealed Batt labels.
also is pics of the sink? Or shunt? There are two and they are identical. Hopefully this will help. If you need better pics I will get my Daughter to take some Thur. She can hold steady without bracing like I have to do. Plus she can use a smart phone camera as opposed to this iPad.

Thanks for the reply and your help.

 

[SolarRat]

From a google search: "The battery type selection is achieved by the use of a jumper plug accessible through a round hole in the top end plate of the controller. To set the controller for flooded lead-acid batteries, remove the small jumper plug with needle nose pliers. Do not do anything if you have the sealed gel-cell type battery. The controller is set for this type of battery at the factory."

 

[Wilber256]

Hello Handymanny916, I propose to take a old swimming pool pump being it is rated for continuous duty, set it on my deck which is about 8-10 in. above the water line and circulate the pond water.
I do have a driven well next to the walk pier out to the deck at about 25ft deep in 3” PVC as a casing.

Inside the 3 in. casing is a one inch water line with a foot valve and well point at about 22ft deep.
that depth should be fresh water from underground source and not pond water.
Surviving on SS and a small pension check will not allow for a pump. I can’t afford all my meds so buying a pump is pretty much out for a couple more years if I can stay above ground that long.

I had complete kidney failure in Jan 2021, 3 weeks in the horsepital, 8 days in a coma. I was on dialysis 3 days a week for 5 months but through proper diet and mercy from the man upstairs I am off dialysis, just barely.
Then 4 weeks ago I almost met my maker for the second time in 2021. My heart rate was in the thirties and Bpressure was like 80/30. So apt they implanted a pacemaker. I spent 3/weeks in the horsepital for that.

l‘m ready for 2021 to end and 2022 to begin. I have enjoyed about as much of 2021 that I can stand. I do have other odd and end PV panels but will have to recheck for specs. I had them all recorded on the backs with magic markers but Mother Nature wiped that out. Most are 25-35 years old. Back when panels were $4-$5 per watt. But all produced power when I last checked them about 5-6 years ago. But a mixed bag of junk. I need to try and scrape up enough to get a couple of 300 watt panels to run a dc pump from the well and supply fresh water and oxygen at the same time.
thanks for your help.

 

[Wilber256]

Thanks SolarRat, I only have a 12v 9 amp hour SLA battery at this time. From my understanding this type controller is designed for dusk to dawn lighting. The panel sending voltage to the controller switches the load circuit off and battery charger circuit on. I hope to run the pump from the battery during the day and hope the panel output will keep up with the draw from the battery by the pump.

This way it will give me more pumping time as opposed to dusk to?, dawn hopefully. Clouds may give my plan fits so will late start charging time due to shading from trees. It may just be a trade off being I can’t capture sun from sunrise to sunset. Thanks for your reply. I did not find that info. I possibly overlooked it after searching for 6 hours it got quite frustrating.