Planning a Sol Ark 15k system for our ranch, after solar company went bust.
- Thread starter JurassicRanch
- Start date
JurassicRanch
New Member
That way will save on some PV wire, breaker/fusing. But if it were me, I’d take advantage of all three MPPTs. Stings of 8 panels.
The only way you can "take advantage" of an MPPT connection is if the panels are of different capacities between the MPPT connections or the array is facing in a different direction and or angle. Otherwise, there is nothing to be gained. Period, end of story.
JurassicRanch
New Member
My thought was, if the 15K will take it, i could add more panels on a second awning later on, as i still have some of that steel tubing left over, possibly enough for an identical clone of the first one.
@glandpuck My definition of awning is a structure that will withstand a tornado and only loose its cover panels. Built to last!
And no, not martian, but i do like my peace and quiet and literally living on the offroad trails i ride 2-3 times a week.
Rather than "awning", lets agree to call this a covered car port or RV port, vehicle cover, etc. It is not an awning.
And it may not be able to hold up in windy conditions. How far into the ground do the posts penetrate? What is the spacing between front to back row of posts and between posts in the same front or back row?
Is there any concrete in the ground to act as ballast?
And just to be certain, we are talking steel and not aluminum, correct?
Multiple MPPT systems allow for better system monitoring and diagnostics. The independent tracking of each array permits more precise monitoring of individual panel performance, simplifying troubleshooting and maintenance.
JurassicRanch
New Member
Steel, not aluminum, all 6 posts are concreted in, we have already had 60 mph winds since this was setup, as because we are in a mountain pass, during storms the wind comes between the hills with gusto, the structure was built with this in mind. The structure is 20x40, so every post is +/- 20 feet apart from each other post.
The steel was welded together using a regular good ole Miller gas powered stick welder, not mig or tig, on every mating surface, on both sides of that mating surface. The shiny color is because it has a Zinc/galvanized coating to prevent it from rusting.
Everywhere you see a lime green hash line is where one of the support posts is
The steel was welded together using a regular good ole Miller gas powered stick welder, not mig or tig, on every mating surface, on both sides of that mating surface. The shiny color is because it has a Zinc/galvanized coating to prevent it from rusting.
Everywhere you see a lime green hash line is where one of the support posts is
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JurassicRanch
New Member
Everything was made from the same 4x4 inch square steel tubing, no other materials were used, posts, cross beams, it is all the same 4x4 steel.
better image to show how the first later is on top of the posts, then the 2nd layer is on top of that, and its all welded
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JurassicRanch
New Member
We then used L brackets to mount the panels to the framework, the brackets are self tapping screwed into the 4 inch steel using #8x3/4 screws,
Each solar panel has 4 L brackets roughly in each corner, except for the panels which hang over the ends slightly, on those ones they are set back where the panel crosses the steel beam, but 4 brackets all the same.
Like i said, built to last due to the winds we do get here sometimes. I missed it before until i re-read, the posts are i believe 2.5 or 3 ft deep in concrete, they were 20 feet long also, as was all the steel, but we cut them in half because we didnt want it that high, the top of the posts is about 7 ft and change high, i can reach up and touch the cross beams.
Each solar panel has 4 L brackets roughly in each corner, except for the panels which hang over the ends slightly, on those ones they are set back where the panel crosses the steel beam, but 4 brackets all the same.
Like i said, built to last due to the winds we do get here sometimes. I missed it before until i re-read, the posts are i believe 2.5 or 3 ft deep in concrete, they were 20 feet long also, as was all the steel, but we cut them in half because we didnt want it that high, the top of the posts is about 7 ft and change high, i can reach up and touch the cross beams.
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If you do not want to have a interconnect agreement than after the Main disconnect panel you will need to install a transfer switch. A 200a MTS is not hard to setup. You would wire one side from the grid and the other side from your AIO. By having this MTS you could show isolation to your Elec Co. From the TS would be your panel that feeds the 3 sub panels.
If you believe that you can get away with it the Main disconnect panel can have two Service breakers, one feeding the MTS and the other feeding the AIO's AC in circuit. This way would provide potential grid export when bypassing the MTS.
wheelman55
New Member
OP. In case you aren’t aware, there’s a great solar resource up in Flagstaff. They’ve been selling solar for a long time, have in house support staff for diy and just might know of a reliable solar installer in your area.
Here’s a link: https://www.solar-electric.com/residential/inverters/grid-tie-inverters.html?manufacturer=761
Best of luck.
Here’s a link: https://www.solar-electric.com/residential/inverters/grid-tie-inverters.html?manufacturer=761
Best of luck.
JurassicRanch
New Member
@glandpuck @Ampster @Nobodybusiness
I just ordered more unistrut to extend the existing track on the side of the shop, 6 x 4 ft lengths, i have other uses for it if i have some left over, and if someone wants to recommend the exact items from Amazon or elsewhere, I plan to order the combiner boxes, and the cabling to get the panels connected to them today, I can at least do that much to make some progress.
Lets build me a shopping list of the accessory hardware so i can get this moving. I looked quickly on amazon and all i see is 4 and 6 string combiner boxes... I dont see any 2 strings. Should i just get 2 of the 4 string combiner boxes, and only attach 2 strings to each, leave the extra ports empty as the 4 string boxes are inexpensive enough?
Something like this??: https://www.amazon.com/EXCELFU-Combiner-Lightning-Arreste-Waterproof/dp/B09JK27BWF
@wheelman55 i called them, they said they will get back to me.
I just ordered more unistrut to extend the existing track on the side of the shop, 6 x 4 ft lengths, i have other uses for it if i have some left over, and if someone wants to recommend the exact items from Amazon or elsewhere, I plan to order the combiner boxes, and the cabling to get the panels connected to them today, I can at least do that much to make some progress.
Lets build me a shopping list of the accessory hardware so i can get this moving. I looked quickly on amazon and all i see is 4 and 6 string combiner boxes... I dont see any 2 strings. Should i just get 2 of the 4 string combiner boxes, and only attach 2 strings to each, leave the extra ports empty as the 4 string boxes are inexpensive enough?
Something like this??: https://www.amazon.com/EXCELFU-Combiner-Lightning-Arreste-Waterproof/dp/B09JK27BWF
@wheelman55 i called them, they said they will get back to me.
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Nobodybusiness
Collecting the leftovers of the Great Sky Reactor.
That was a guess as to the # of string because we really don’t know your panels Manufacture or model#.
Need
VMP
IMP
Isc
VOC
Are all the panels the same?
Once you have that you can use
Solar Panel Sizing 4.5
www.sol-ark.com
Put that information in the calculator and it will tell you how many series and parallel strings you can make per MPPT channel.
Then you can order combiners.
How far is the panel array going to be from the Inverter?
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JurassicRanch
New Member
all panels are identical, and yes i know the vinyl is cracking on them, here in arizona we are a very dry climate thankfully, but i also plan to go through and put sealer on them, they are used panels, i paid 20 bucks a piece, the faces have no spider webing, no de-lamination, no air pockets or bubbling like ive seen on others its just the vinyl backing.
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JurassicRanch
New Member
small walkthru
Nobodybusiness
Collecting the leftovers of the Great Sky Reactor.
Well that was a good guess.
I put that in the calculator and it came out to 2 x 12 panel strings in parallel.
So 24 panels per MPPT channel.
10awg would be fine since I saw your video of the inverter only being a few feet from the array.
If all your panels are together in one spot then you need 2 combiners of 2 string input to 1 output or if you can find a 4 string input to 2 output.
Or you can just use Branch connectors to an IMO DC disco.
A few ways to do it..
IMO DC Disconnect Rooftop Isolator Switch
IEC 60364-7-712, dc disconnect, imo, ul listed, DC AC, DC DISC
signaturesolar.com
Flexible Branch Pair | MC4-Style
Easily parallel 2 solar panel strings with these MC4 Flexible Branch Pairs from Signature Solar. Fast install and 1000VDC rating means these are perfect for the DIYer to install!
signaturesolar.com
This is a 4-2 combiner but you would have to make or buy your own MC4 pigtails.
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JurassicRanch
New Member
i was kinda hoping to keep the DC side simple, and plug and play as possible, is there a downfall to using the 4 string combiner box that has the shutoff and all that inside it, and just capping off two of its inputs, using it as a 2 - 1 essentially, and giving each of the sets of 24 panels its own combiner box?
IF not, what amp circuit breakers should i make sure it has?
IF not, what amp circuit breakers should i make sure it has?
Nobodybusiness
Collecting the leftovers of the Great Sky Reactor.
Are you not going to use all 48 panels?
If so you will need all 4 inputs.
If you can find a 2 string input to single output combiner you can use 2 of them in place of the 4-2.
The fuses are built into the combiner.
No breaker’s needed.
JurassicRanch
New Member
I think you mis-understood, im talking about getting 2 of the 4-1s because i cant find a 2-1s or 4-2s with everything plug and play and simple.
That would give me 8 total inputs, but i only intend to use 2 inputs on each one. And I know the fuses are built into the combiner, but some have 10A some are 15A, some are 20A, which one is right for this purpose if i use two of the 4-1s??
That would give me 8 total inputs, but i only intend to use 2 inputs on each one. And I know the fuses are built into the combiner, but some have 10A some are 15A, some are 20A, which one is right for this purpose if i use two of the 4-1s??
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