PoppaBlade
New Member
Are there solar panels I should avoid for my skoolie? I'm just wondering if some panels maybe not compatible or just unsafe altogether. Any advice will be greatly appreciated on types of panels to use and not to use. Thank you!
Solar panels to not use?
- Thread starter PoppaBlade
- Start date
hwy17
Anti-Solar Enthusiast
Flexible solar panels.
PoppaBlade
New Member
Ah yes, I knew to avoid these, thank you for your input.
Panels on RV’s are always a challenge…
I would avoid small panels- 100w’s. Your bracket costs are probably the same for a 100w vs. 200w vs 350w- except you need 1/3 the brackets with bigger panels.
Figure out what fits. I had to use 200w panels- could not fit anything bigger on my MotorHome.
Also, before buying make sure you have the Solar Charge Controller figured out too. Some voltages of panels make you use more expensive SCC’s to get 3 or 4 in series - panels with Voc’s of about 45v you either put 2 in series on a 150v max mppt or move up to a 250v mppt. Whereas if the Voc is in the 30’s then you can get 3s and maybe 4s into a 150v mppt.
Also, decide if you will be tilting the panels. In the winter the solar is really bad with flat panels. Just by tilting I can get a lot more power - it goes from not nearly enough daily power on a good solar day to just enough. I have plenty in the summer and am usually ok in spring &Fall. (1400w on my RV).
Good Luck
I would avoid small panels- 100w’s. Your bracket costs are probably the same for a 100w vs. 200w vs 350w- except you need 1/3 the brackets with bigger panels.
Figure out what fits. I had to use 200w panels- could not fit anything bigger on my MotorHome.
Also, before buying make sure you have the Solar Charge Controller figured out too. Some voltages of panels make you use more expensive SCC’s to get 3 or 4 in series - panels with Voc’s of about 45v you either put 2 in series on a 150v max mppt or move up to a 250v mppt. Whereas if the Voc is in the 30’s then you can get 3s and maybe 4s into a 150v mppt.
Also, decide if you will be tilting the panels. In the winter the solar is really bad with flat panels. Just by tilting I can get a lot more power - it goes from not nearly enough daily power on a good solar day to just enough. I have plenty in the summer and am usually ok in spring &Fall. (1400w on my RV).
Good Luck
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MichaelK
Solar Wizard
Doing empirical testing of the percent of rated output, Renogy panels had the lowest rating (87%) of any panel brand I tested. Astronergy had the best performance, at 94%. BTW, the Renogy panels were a new, retail purchase, whereas the Astronergy panels were surplus, off Craigslist. So, the cheap panels I bought surplus (62$) outperformed new Renogy panels (260$) I paid retail for!
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If you intend to run parallel strings per MPPT, choose panels output that will match the MPPT max current for the number of parallel strings you intend to install.
I run 540W panels in my arrrays, which means I cannot parallel 2 strings per MPPT on my Sol-Ark 15K which max out at 26A per MPPT... meaning I need 13A max per panel after temperature adjustments in order to not fry my inverter.... just something to be aware as you match panels to inverter.
I run 540W panels in my arrrays, which means I cannot parallel 2 strings per MPPT on my Sol-Ark 15K which max out at 26A per MPPT... meaning I need 13A max per panel after temperature adjustments in order to not fry my inverter.... just something to be aware as you match panels to inverter.
littleharbor2
Solar Addict
Look out for any Thin-Film panels that have excessively high voltage.
BryceFreeman
Ecoworthy Distributor
I agree with flexible solar panels which are too fragile and not that much "flexible" at all. It often happens the panels got invisible cracks inside, leading to huge drop of performance.
Rednecktek
Solar Wizard
Avoid amorphous panels, they're worse than flexible panels and last about as long. Also, anything listed as a "portable" panel.
Avoid any panels from Harbor Freight. While our 100w mono panels punch above their weight class, they cost about 50% more than any other brand, have heads that are hard to work with, and behave badly in parallel.
Flexible panels have their place, but you need to know the ins and outs of them and be willing to spend the big bucks on CIGS panels and proper mounting. Check out Rv'ing with Tito on youtube, he's figured out all the tricks to make them last.
Mounting panels on an RV means you need to pay attention to the weight. A used residential panel is great and cheap, but can push 60lb and you gotta plan for that much mass up there.
Avoid any panels from Harbor Freight. While our 100w mono panels punch above their weight class, they cost about 50% more than any other brand, have heads that are hard to work with, and behave badly in parallel.
Flexible panels have their place, but you need to know the ins and outs of them and be willing to spend the big bucks on CIGS panels and proper mounting. Check out Rv'ing with Tito on youtube, he's figured out all the tricks to make them last.
Mounting panels on an RV means you need to pay attention to the weight. A used residential panel is great and cheap, but can push 60lb and you gotta plan for that much mass up there.
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