Thought this was easier.

[schaanman]

I am very much a beginner and have been purchasing equipment as I find good deals without really knowing what I was doing. Is there any way I can make these work together? I only want to power a freezer and a fan, light and charge cell phones, etc. I started researching and am afraid my invertor is too big and not sure how to tie in a 400W wind generator with my 700 watts of panels. the invertor is 12 or 24 though 12 would be easies?. or tell me where to start looking for correct info. I would usually spend more time learning but I think I might need this soon. sorry, I'm not more informed or prepared. thank you

Go Power Charge controller PWM 30-UL mppt 30A
1st generation honda insight lithium
2 Generac PWRCELL 11/2021 https://www.ecodirect.com/Generac-PWRcell-Mod3-38kWh-Battery-Module-Li-Ion-p/generac-a0000391219.htm
JC 12/24 wind generator controller

5000w LF
Split phase
Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter
with
20A battery charger function
https://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/e...369803164&cspheader=1&versionid=3368618211026
AC 110V: 2500W continue power, 10000w peak power

AC220V:2500W continue power, 10000w peak power

DC 12V to AC 110V & 220v
AMG VERSION

OPTION A(factory setting):
110v max output: 2500w

JUMP CABLE OPERATION:
2PCS jumper cable required,
1+3 & 2+4
no 220v service

output operation:
L1+N1 OR L2+N2=110V MAX OUTPUT


OPTION B:
1250W 110V OR 2500W 220V

JUMP CABLE OPERATION:
1PC jumper cable required,
2+3
output operation:
110V :
MAX 1250W
L1+N1 OR L2+N2
220V :
MAX 2500W
L1+L2


Seller's command for AMG versions:

What is the AMG version means?

Idea is come from Benz amg version, they use same engineer like 2.0 cc from 200HP become 400HP, then you
don't have buy big car to have 400HP, also in the normal time you can save your gas oil, if you want mass power
the AMG car will be ready any time for you!
Now Power Jack use same idea to offer more power & handy version for you.

The last 5 years before, we offer SP version, we have 2 sets output from the transformer, if customer need 110v output, then they can choice one of them to get it, if need 220v, we in series to offer 220v. But this way 110v only 50% power, that's a big wasting.

Now the whole new design is we put jumper cable outside, if you need full 110v power, then you can in parallel buy yourself, but this moment no 220v service.
If you want using 220v, then you have to in series 2 sets
110v by yourself through the jumper cable.

Also the same coil we put more wires on the transformer about 1.5 times than before, now they become more powerful, the temperature can keep under 80C.
The original long is 60cm, now just 40cm, we save the cost offer same power for our customer.

Now the marketing for 3000w High Frequency only 5-6kgs, but not good for heaving loading, usually 2-3 months dead, the cost around US$350, but they only offer 110v, no 220v to using it.

Now power jack offer you under US$300 but you have 110v & 220v for choice, all is assemble model, if mosfet dead, you are using to repair yourself, but HF inverter dead, you just throw it away.

The first trial stocks only 40pcs, after sold out, the sell price will become USD349.99, the shipment is on the way, all you need is just wait for 5 weeks more, so let keep the chance try our AMG versions, thank you!

Seller's command:

1.Ideally suitable for Journeys, Camping, Tents, Boat Trip, Working on the way and everywhere, where is no electricity !
Simply connect our with a 12v Battery.For example as in a Car, Motorcycle, Camper or Boat and use 110v or 220V electrical appliances.

2.Possible Uses:Equipment,Entertainment Electronics,Household Appliances,Kitchen Devices,Electrical Tools

3.This item is mainly design for more heavy load,such as motor machine,and when it works with your appliance,you should connect with a battery bank and the AC side need to connect with your home source first.

4.This item will with the universal sockets on the AC output side, it can be used in your country.

What's the different between high frequency and low frequency?
High frequency power inverter have limit for running appliances with motors, engines, special light and TV
Low frequency power inverter available for sensitive load, accept generator's energy output, high power factor, and follow our warning label, it would not have any problems.

the output sockets are universal sockets, available for any country.

Feature:

Ideally suitable for Journeys, Camping, Tents, Boat Trip, Working on the way and everywhere, where is no electricity!
Simply connect our with 12V battery.
For example as in a Car, Motorcycle, Camper or Boat and use 110V &220V electrical appliances.


Possible Uses:
Equipment:
Computer, Laptop, Monitors, Fax Devices, Scanner
Entertainment Electronics:
TV, DVD-Player, Play Consoles, Hi-Fi-Systems, Music Instruments, Satellite Decoder
Household Appliances:
Fans, Electric Shaver, etc.
Kitchen Devices:
Toaster etc.
Electrical Tools:
Drill, etc.


Specification :

Brand	Power Jack
Item no.	LF-SP-PSW-5000-12-110/220
Continuous Output Power	2500W
Max Output Power	10000W
DC Input Voltage	12V
AC Output Voltage	110V/220V
Regulation	±5%
Frequency	60HZ±3%
Efficiency	90%
Output Wave Form	Pure Sine Wave
Temperature Protection	70C
Input Low Voltage Alarm	10.5V
Input Low Voltage shutdown	10V
Input High Voltage Alarm	14.5V
Input High Voltage shutdown	>15V
Dimension	400*290*240MM
Warranty	1 year
Weight	14Kgs
Certificate	CE
Components	Made in CHINA
Design	Taiwan

Free repair,buyer pay for return postage and resend postage.Or we can send parts for repair , buyer responsible for the postage

 

[schaanman]

oh also picked up a Honda insight hybrid 1st gen cell, with 14.4v cells 23k km on about 65k km lifespan, and 2 pwrcells from generac. 3.38 kw but need 3 and way too much money to go generac. don't know if I can use them and can't find jack on the web as they are fairly new. Panasonic might be the manufacturer, the biggest stupid purchase. might just resell if able to.

& a K2 and 2 duracell agms

 

[Rednecktek]

I am very much a beginner and have been purchasing equipment as I find good deals without really knowing what I was doing. Is there any way I can make these work together?

Aaahhh, "Tuition"! You're not the first, you won't be the last. You should see my spare parts bin. Be prepared for some bad news.

I only want to power a freezer and a fan, light and charge cell phones, etc.

Do you know how to do a Power Audit? You're going to need one of those to figure out if you can power what you want. A power audit will tell you 3 things:
1: What size inverter you're going to need.
2: How much battery capacity you'll need to run your loads for $Many days.
3: How much panel you'll need to recharge your batteries in a day if the sun hasn't come out for a while.

The freezer and fan are going to eat your batteries alive, you're probably not going to be able to get a full day out of them sadly.

I started researching and am afraid my invertor is too big

What makes you think it's too big? Your fridge is going to have a pretty large startup surge and the inverter is going to have to handle that initial bump so it needs to be larger than you think probably.

and not sure how to tie in a 400W wind generator

I wouldn't count your wind generator in as a factor. Unless you go really REALLY big they are more work than they're worth. If you've already got the pieces then plan for them to be 0w of charging with anything above that being icing on the cake. There's a whole Wind section of the forums with lots of good information on that. As for hooking it up, the 3 green wires would go to your turbine and the black & red would go to your battery bank. Super easy to parallel controllers be they solar, wind, hydro, or gerbil-wheel.

with my 700 watts of panels.

This could be a problem as your controller is a PWM and 30a. With PWM you're going to need to keep the panels in parallel because any voltage above what the battery needs is just dumped as waste. The 30a controller can take about 300w of panel, 500 if you overpanel and risk burnout. The only way to use 700w of panel on that guy is to drastically split your arrays and point some SE for morning sun and some SW for afternoon sun. Even then you're really asking a lot of that controller. Once you get to 3 or more panels in parallel you'll need fuses on each panel as well.

With 700w of panels (and BTW, prime numbers are a PITA to work with) you really, REALLY want to go with a MPPT controller in the 80a range or multiple controllers in parallel with each other..

the invertor is 12 or 24 though 12 would be easies?

It's one or the other. There should be an Input Voltage entry on the data sticker that tells you which it is.

. or tell me where to start looking for correct info. I would usually spend more time learning but I think I might need this soon. sorry Im not more informed or prepared. thank you

Like I said, not uncommon. Here's a few observations to help clean things up:

The batteries are a flavor of Lead Acid and can only be used to about 50% of their rated capacity. You've got 2 rated at 75Ah each so if you parallel them that gives you 12v * 75Ah = 900Wh. If you run that through an inverter you're going to get about 85% efficiency out of that which cuts you down to 765Wh usable power. If you were to plug in a bog standard 60w box fan (as an example) that would drain your battery dry in about 12.5 hours. Your freezer is going to drain it quicker. Stupid math!

What is that black thing in picture 5554??

With your 30a PWM controller, 300w of panels connected to it, and a standard 4 hours of usable sun a day (average for napkin math) you'll be able to generate somewhere around 250watts per hour, and in 4 hours you could completely fill the battery bank. That's a good thing!

Things I would recommend are (in order):
1: MPPT controller that supports 200v PV Input (that should be in the product descriptions) to utilize your 700w of panels.
2: More or larger batteries. If you can afford to go to LFP then you can get 2x the power out of a LFP battery than a lead acid as you can discharge them further. If you're in the USA I always recommend the Walmart DC29 120Ah deep cycle batteries because they're cheap (about $100 out the door) and if you end up damaging them you're only out $100 instead of the $350 a cheap LFP would cost you. You can parallel those to the sky too.
3: An 8th panel because prime numbers are a PAIN to work with when doing strings. If you can get 1 more panel you can start making strings and pointing.
4: Your inverter that came with that kit (?) is probably a Modified Sine Wave inverter and will beat up on your freezer and fan motors. Getting a correctly sized Pure Sine Wave inverter is always a good investment.

Just some initial thoughts. Posting the data specs of the panels and inverter would help narrow things down, and you're going to need to get a Kill-A-Watt type device to get accurate numbers on what that freezer needs in a day.

I'll post my standard blurb next to help point you in the right direction.

 

[Rednecktek]

Well, I'll start the default answer to these questions and we can work from there. Here's you To-Do list:

1: Power audit! This will give you some important information on how big your inverter needs to be as well as how much battery capacity you'll need. There is a link in the FAQ section (I think, or someone here will post it shortly) so fill in the blanks and see what it comes up with. You'll probably need some sort of Kill-A-Watt to get accurate measurements. Are you going to be running a 12v system? 24v system? 48v system? What are the specs on your solar panels? VoC? Vmp? Being as this is a new build, throw together a wish list of what you want and estimate on the high side.

1a: Where do you live? Speccing out a system for Scotland is a LOT different numbers than Arizona due to the amount of light you actually get. Someone here can post the link to the PVwatts.com or JCR Solar Uber-Sun-Hours calculator sites to help figure out how much you'll have to work with. That will be a box in the Power Audit form.

2: Parts list: You don't need a make & model list, just a parts list to start from for reference. You'll need an inverter, a MPPT charge controller, fuses, shunt, buck converter, batteries, wire, etc. Once you have a basic list it can be fine tuned to make & models after that. If you're looking at the All-In-Ones check for correct voltage outputs (120v or 240v Split Phase for North America, 220v Single Phase for European type areas) and make sure it has enough capacity for a little bit of growth and fudge factor.

3: Budget!: Steak is great but doesn't mean anything if your wallet says hamburger. Figure out what you're able to spend now vs what you'll have to cheap out on now and upgrade later.

4: Tape measure! Figure out where you're going to stick all the stuff you'll need. A dozen 3000AH batteries sounds great until you're sleeping on the floor because there's no room left for a bed. Is there a compartment that can house all this stuff? Will the server rack batteries fit? Are you going to have to make space? Physics can be pretty unforgiving.

5: Pencil out what you think you need and throw it at us so we can tell you what you've missed (because we ALL miss stuff the first go-round ) and help figure out which parts and pieces you're going to want to get.

 

[highwater]

What is that black thing in picture 5554??

That is the high voltage battery pack out of a First gen Honda Insight mild hybrid automobile.
Year model 2000-2006.
Same battery in the early Civic Hybrids.
144 vdc nominal
120 "D" size cells that screw together in 20 strings of 6 cells.
NickelMetalHydride chemistry,
6Ah capacity.
Bunch of control crap that goes with it in the vehicle.
There's another one sitting in my garage on top of a 50gal drum if someone wants to come get it.
weighs ~100lbs
Probably the most useless thing in the collection.
Would be better off with Prius modules or the later EV stuff.
Total cost for this is 2 cents.
Randall

 

[schaanman]

ill get on it and post after i find the new controller. ill add descriptions in original post.
truly amazed at the response. i found a good place. thanks

i have numerous batteries ill put those up also. again, thanks

 

[Supervstech]

Power jack...
Beware of this inverter.
5000W rating means at most full load is 2500W. Be prepared for poor performance.

Also, many of the "split phase" inverters output weird voltages and have warnings stating 120V output, OR 240V... not both.

Yours seems to have a parallel requirement... so what do you have?

 

[schaanman]

Well, I'll start the default answer to these questions and we can work from there. Here's you To-Do list:

1: Power audit! This will give you some important information on how big your inverter needs to be as well as how much battery capacity you'll need. There is a link in the FAQ section (I think, or someone here will post it shortly) so fill in the blanks and see what it comes up with. You'll probably need some sort of Kill-A-Watt to get accurate measurements. Are you going to be running a 12v system? 24v system? 48v system? What are the specs on your solar panels? VoC? Vmp? Being as this is a new build, throw together a wish list of what you want and estimate on the high side.

1a: Where do you live? Speccing out a system for Scotland is a LOT different numbers than Arizona due to the amount of light you actually get. Someone here can post the link to the PVwatts.com or JCR Solar Uber-Sun-Hours calculator sites to help figure out how much you'll have to work with. That will be a box in the Power Audit form.

2: Parts list: You don't need a make & model list, just a parts list to start from for reference. You'll need an inverter, a MPPT charge controller, fuses, shunt, buck converter, batteries, wire, etc. Once you have a basic list it can be fine tuned to make & models after that. If you're looking at the All-In-Ones check for correct voltage outputs (120v or 240v Split Phase for North America, 220v Single Phase for European type areas) and make sure it has enough capacity for a little bit of growth and fudge factor.

3: Budget!: Steak is great but doesn't mean anything if your wallet says hamburger. Figure out what you're able to spend now vs what you'll have to cheap out on now and upgrade later.

4: Tape measure! Figure out where you're going to stick all the stuff you'll need. A dozen 3000AH batteries sounds great until you're sleeping on the floor because there's no room left for a bed. Is there a compartment that can house all this stuff? Will the server rack batteries fit? Are you going to have to make space? Physics can be pretty unforgiving.

5: Pencil out what you think you need and throw it at us so we can tell you what you've missed (because we ALL miss stuff the first go-round ) and help figure out which parts and pieces you're going to want to get.

thanks. i will look this over today. very much what i was hoping for (guidance

Well, I'll start the default answer to these questions and we can work from there. Here's you To-Do list:

1: Power audit! This will give you some important information on how big your inverter needs to be as well as how much battery capacity you'll need. There is a link in the FAQ section (I think, or someone here will post it shortly) so fill in the blanks and see what it comes up with. You'll probably need some sort of Kill-A-Watt to get accurate measurements. Are you going to be running a 12v system? 24v system? 48v system? What are the specs on your solar panels? VoC? Vmp? Being as this is a new build, throw together a wish list of what you want and estimate on the high side.

1a: Where do you live? Speccing out a system for Scotland is a LOT different numbers than Arizona due to the amount of light you actually get. Someone here can post the link to the PVwatts.com or JCR Solar Uber-Sun-Hours calculator sites to help figure out how much you'll have to work with. That will be a box in the Power Audit form.

2: Parts list: You don't need a make & model list, just a parts list to start from for reference. You'll need an inverter, a MPPT charge controller, fuses, shunt, buck converter, batteries, wire, etc. Once you have a basic list it can be fine tuned to make & models after that. If you're looking at the All-In-Ones check for correct voltage outputs (120v or 240v Split Phase for North America, 220v Single Phase for European type areas) and make sure it has enough capacity for a little bit of growth and fudge factor.

3: Budget!: Steak is great but doesn't mean anything if your wallet says hamburger. Figure out what you're able to spend now vs what you'll have to cheap out on now and upgrade later.

4: Tape measure! Figure out where you're going to stick all the stuff you'll need. A dozen 3000AH batteries sounds great until you're sleeping on the floor because there's no room left for a bed. Is there a compartment that can house all this stuff? Will the server rack batteries fit? Are you going to have to make space? Physics can be pretty unforgiving.

5: Pencil out what you think you need and throw it at us so we can tell you what you've missed (because we ALL miss stuff the first go-round ) and help figure out which parts and pieces you're going to want to get.

.. good or bad )

 

[schaanman]

Well, I'll start the default answer to these questions and we can work from there. Here's you To-Do list:

1: Power audit! This will give you some important information on how big your inverter needs to be as well as how much battery capacity you'll need. There is a link in the FAQ section (I think, or someone here will post it shortly) so fill in the blanks and see what it comes up with. You'll probably need some sort of Kill-A-Watt to get accurate measurements. Are you going to be running a 12v system? 24v system? 48v system? What are the specs on your solar panels? VoC? Vmp? Being as this is a new build, throw together a wish list of what you want and estimate on the high side.

1a: Where do you live? Speccing out a system for Scotland is a LOT different numbers than Arizona due to the amount of light you actually get. Someone here can post the link to the PVwatts.com or JCR Solar Uber-Sun-Hours calculator sites to help figure out how much you'll have to work with. That will be a box in the Power Audit form.

2: Parts list: You don't need a make & model list, just a parts list to start from for reference. You'll need an inverter, a MPPT charge controller, fuses, shunt, buck converter, batteries, wire, etc. Once you have a basic list it can be fine tuned to make & models after that. If you're looking at the All-In-Ones check for correct voltage outputs (120v or 240v Split Phase for North America, 220v Single Phase for European type areas) and make sure it has enough capacity for a little bit of growth and fudge factor.

3: Budget!: Steak is great but doesn't mean anything if your wallet says hamburger. Figure out what you're able to spend now vs what you'll have to cheap out on now and upgrade later.

4: Tape measure! Figure out where you're going to stick all the stuff you'll need. A dozen 3000AH batteries sounds great until you're sleeping on the floor because there's no room left for a bed. Is there a compartment that can house all this stuff? Will the server rack batteries fit? Are you going to have to make space? Physics can be pretty unforgiving.

5: Pencil out what you think you need and throw it at us so we can tell you what you've missed (because we ALL miss stuff the first go-round ) and help figure out which parts and pieces you're going to want to get.

exactly what i was looking for. ill get busy. kansas

 

[schaanman]

Aaahhh, "Tuition"! You're not the first, you won't be the last. You should see my spare parts bin. Be prepared for some bad news.

Do you know how to do a Power Audit? You're going to need one of those to figure out if you can power what you want. A power audit will tell you 3 things:
1: What size inverter you're going to need.
2: How much battery capacity you'll need to run your loads for $Many days.
3: How much panel you'll need to recharge your batteries in a day if the sun hasn't come out for a while.

The freezer and fan are going to eat your batteries alive, you're probably not going to be able to get a full day out of them sadly.

What makes you think it's too big? Your fridge is going to have a pretty large startup surge and the inverter is going to have to handle that initial bump so it needs to be larger than you think probably.

I wouldn't count your wind generator in as a factor. Unless you go really REALLY big they are more work than they're worth. If you've already got the pieces then plan for them to be 0w of charging with anything above that being icing on the cake. There's a whole Wind section of the forums with lots of good information on that. As for hooking it up, the 3 green wires would go to your turbine and the black & red would go to your battery bank. Super easy to parallel controllers be they solar, wind, hydro, or gerbil-wheel.

This could be a problem as your controller is a PWM and 30a. With PWM you're going to need to keep the panels in parallel because any voltage above what the battery needs is just dumped as waste. The 30a controller can take about 300w of panel, 500 if you overpanel and risk burnout. The only way to use 700w of panel on that guy is to drastically split your arrays and point some SE for morning sun and some SW for afternoon sun. Even then you're really asking a lot of that controller. Once you get to 3 or more panels in parallel you'll need fuses on each panel as well.

With 700w of panels (and BTW, prime numbers are a PITA to work with) you really, REALLY want to go with a MPPT controller in the 80a range or multiple controllers in parallel with each other..

It's one or the other. There should be an Input Voltage entry on the data sticker that tells you which it is.

Like I said, not uncommon. Here's a few observations to help clean things up:

The batteries are a flavor of Lead Acid and can only be used to about 50% of their rated capacity. You've got 2 rated at 75Ah each so if you parallel them that gives you 12v * 75Ah = 900Wh. If you run that through an inverter you're going to get about 85% efficiency out of that which cuts you down to 765Wh usable power. If you were to plug in a bog standard 60w box fan (as an example) that would drain your battery dry in about 12.5 hours. Your freezer is going to drain it quicker. Stupid math!

What is that black thing in picture 5554??

With your 30a PWM controller, 300w of panels connected to it, and a standard 4 hours of usable sun a day (average for napkin math) you'll be able to generate somewhere around 250watts per hour, and in 4 hours you could completely fill the battery bank. That's a good thing!

Things I would recommend are (in order):
1: MPPT controller that supports 200v PV Input (that should be in the product descriptions) to utilize your 700w of panels.
2: More or larger batteries. If you can afford to go to LFP then you can get 2x the power out of a LFP battery than a lead acid as you can discharge them further. If you're in the USA I always recommend the Walmart DC29 120Ah deep cycle batteries because they're cheap (about $100 out the door) and if you end up damaging them you're only out $100 instead of the $350 a cheap LFP would cost you. You can parallel those to the sky too.
3: An 8th panel because prime numbers are a PAIN to work with when doing strings. If you can get 1 more panel you can start making strings and pointing.
4: Your inverter that came with that kit (?) is probably a Modified Sine Wave inverter and will beat up on your freezer and fan motors. Getting a correctly sized Pure Sine Wave inverter is always a good investment.

Just some initial thoughts. Posting the data specs of the panels and inverter would help narrow things down, and you're going to need to get a Kill-A-Watt type device to get accurate numbers on what that freezer needs in a day.

I'll post my standard blurb next to help point you in the right direction.

thank you i may be repeating mysaelf or i thanked someone else
zip 66614 30% shaded south facing roofd

 

[schaanman]

Aaahhh, "Tuition"! You're not the first, you won't be the last. You should see my spare parts bin. Be prepared for some bad news.

Do you know how to do a Power Audit? You're going to need one of those to figure out if you can power what you want. A power audit will tell you 3 things:
1: What size inverter you're going to need.
2: How much battery capacity you'll need to run your loads for $Many days.
3: How much panel you'll need to recharge your batteries in a day if the sun hasn't come out for a while.

The freezer and fan are going to eat your batteries alive, you're probably not going to be able to get a full day out of them sadly.

What makes you think it's too big? Your fridge is going to have a pretty large startup surge and the inverter is going to have to handle that initial bump so it needs to be larger than you think probably.

I wouldn't count your wind generator in as a factor. Unless you go really REALLY big they are more work than they're worth. If you've already got the pieces then plan for them to be 0w of charging with anything above that being icing on the cake. There's a whole Wind section of the forums with lots of good information on that. As for hooking it up, the 3 green wires would go to your turbine and the black & red would go to your battery bank. Super easy to parallel controllers be they solar, wind, hydro, or gerbil-wheel.

This could be a problem as your controller is a PWM and 30a. With PWM you're going to need to keep the panels in parallel because any voltage above what the battery needs is just dumped as waste. The 30a controller can take about 300w of panel, 500 if you overpanel and risk burnout. The only way to use 700w of panel on that guy is to drastically split your arrays and point some SE for morning sun and some SW for afternoon sun. Even then you're really asking a lot of that controller. Once you get to 3 or more panels in parallel you'll need fuses on each panel as well.

With 700w of panels (and BTW, prime numbers are a PITA to work with) you really, REALLY want to go with a MPPT controller in the 80a range or multiple controllers in parallel with each other..

It's one or the other. There should be an Input Voltage entry on the data sticker that tells you which it is.

Like I said, not uncommon. Here's a few observations to help clean things up:

The batteries are a flavor of Lead Acid and can only be used to about 50% of their rated capacity. You've got 2 rated at 75Ah each so if you parallel them that gives you 12v * 75Ah = 900Wh. If you run that through an inverter you're going to get about 85% efficiency out of that which cuts you down to 765Wh usable power. If you were to plug in a bog standard 60w box fan (as an example) that would drain your battery dry in about 12.5 hours. Your freezer is going to drain it quicker. Stupid math!

What is that black thing in picture 5554??

With your 30a PWM controller, 300w of panels connected to it, and a standard 4 hours of usable sun a day (average for napkin math) you'll be able to generate somewhere around 250watts per hour, and in 4 hours you could completely fill the battery bank. That's a good thing!

Things I would recommend are (in order):
1: MPPT controller that supports 200v PV Input (that should be in the product descriptions) to utilize your 700w of panels.
2: More or larger batteries. If you can afford to go to LFP then you can get 2x the power out of a LFP battery than a lead acid as you can discharge them further. If you're in the USA I always recommend the Walmart DC29 120Ah deep cycle batteries because they're cheap (about $100 out the door) and if you end up damaging them you're only out $100 instead of the $350 a cheap LFP would cost you. You can parallel those to the sky too.
3: An 8th panel because prime numbers are a PAIN to work with when doing strings. If you can get 1 more panel you can start making strings and pointing.
4: Your inverter that came with that kit (?) is probably a Modified Sine Wave inverter and will beat up on your freezer and fan motors. Getting a correctly sized Pure Sine Wave inverter is always a good investment.

Just some initial thoughts. Posting the data specs of the panels and inverter would help narrow things down, and you're going to need to get a Kill-A-Watt type device to get accurate numbers on what that freezer needs in a day.

I'll post my standard blurb next to help point you in the right direction.

thank you i may be repeating mysaelf or i thanked someone else
zip 66614 30% shaded south facing roofd

 

[A.Justice]

That pire sine wave inverter/ charger SAYS it has a 10,000w peak, but I would absolutely not count on that. If it's rated for 2500w continuous, you should expect to use it at around 2000w, with around a 3500w, BRIEF surge. I'm just ball parking those numbers, but they're pretty standard with any cheaper high frequency inverter.

2000w is still a pretty decent sized system though, that's what mine is designed for. It has no problems with fridges or freezers, but power tools without a soft starter are a no-go. Just make sure your design doesn't plan on getting the full 10,000 watts out of that at any point.

 

[Supervstech]

That pire sine wave inverter/ charger SAYS it has a 10,000w peak, but I would absolutely not count on that. If it's rated for 2500w continuous, you should expect to use it at around 2000w, with around a 3500w, BRIEF surge. I'm just ball parking those numbers, but they're pretty standard with any cheaper high frequency inverter.

2000w is still a pretty decent sized system though, that's what mine is designed for. It has no problems with fridges or freezers, but power tools without a soft starter are a no-go. Just make sure your design doesn't plan on getting the full 10,000 watts out of that at any point.

He lists it as a power jack ultra cheapo low frequency inverter.
I think they are around 300.00 new at 5000W... but NEVER plan on that wattage output.
Figure 2000 and a minor surge ability.

 

[A.Justice]

He lists it as a power jack ultra cheapo low frequency inverter.
I think they are around 300.00 new at 5000W... but NEVER plan on that wattage output.
Figure 2000 and a minor surge ability.

Ah, I must have misread the specs OP posted, I thought there was two separate units involved. It was early, and the copy-paste borderline needs a translation.

It took me a minute to realize why he was talking about Mercedes engines too, lol.