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The good old "cheap, easy battery" conundrum. 'They're only $400...then another $400 for new ones, then another $400 for more solar, then another $700 for a generator. 2 months into winter: need new batteries again and $500 for more solar' Random old guy forum expert "thats very uncommon...

To add to the confusion...at 90% soc the controller will not output max amps as it will be in absorption mode, automatically limiting current. If youre at 50-70% and you try to give them 40A+ it will reach saturation voltage very fast and trigger absorption mode. Also what controller do you...

These are also an mppt controller giving you both in one compact housing.

Very cool, congrats on the purchase.

Well theres also heat dissipation.

I personally would also set limit more like 30A. IMO C/6 is right at the max coming from experience.

You never did answer the questions about wire gauge in your "help" thread. And in another thread you said you had 6awg but not how long. 6awg over about 10 inches is simply too small for an 800w inverter especially the startup current of a relatively large 15 amp compressor. Im not saying youre...

If you want a lead battery i would go no bigger than a group 24. Or a 50A AGM. 5A input is little more than a trickle charge so you will struggle to fill lead up everyday if you do more than small cell charger/LED loads daily. IF you get a lithium size doesnt matter.

From what I have read about the automobile it seems like most people have problems with them (is it doing this/is it doing that). I for one don't want to be concerned about the safety of my vehicle. I'll stick with horse drawn buggies for now, set them and forget them. As a hobbyist yes someday...

So this indicates youre monitoring battery state of charge by voltage. You cant do this. You didn't drop to 65%... you had voltage sag. Which is normal. And another reason you dont do it this way. You monitor SOC by amps in/out through a shunt.

Its just like wind turbines. We didnt even know a few years ago of the cancer risk involved.

Buy victron if you can. They're a real company making real stuff. Such as 6hr absorb times, low temp disconnect, integrated bluetooth, communication between components. Stuff thats actually needed. Worth the extra $$. Been there done that.

Victron controllers wont charge below freezing or any temp you custom set. And unlike lead dont need to be charged at all in storage. So no worries. If youre using coach in freezing temps you will want a couple $40 heating pads. No big deal, theyre automatic thermostat. Your magnum converter...

Sounds like you dont have the controller set to LI. Personally id be selling that thing and getting a stand alone dc-dc and MPPT. the stock settings on that thing suck. If you havent already youre going to ruin that battery. Under no circumstances can you take it above 14.6v

By the early to mid 60's japans motorcycles were keeping up and beating the worlds best in GP and TT.

When everyone and their brother comes out with a product like this, it signifies the market for that product is in a bubble.

In your case time is not a factor. In daily cycled systems if you can get it to 100% (in my case a mobile system with limited panel space) can be very hard and often in winter impossible without a generator. So best case you hit 100% for 1-2hrs a day and immediately drop below full for 95% of...

The little wall wart is pulling 36w when charging. Multiply by 8hrs = 288 watts out of your battle borns give or take. The input specs are irrelevant just look at the output.

Sorry I assumed you spoke with some kind of normal, coherent phrasing to the subject. Still not sure why youd tell us individual battery capacities in your bank otherwise as it makes absolutely no sense. But I digress. Please let us know how many you have maybe we can prove the actual tests and...

Yes you can do it. I nearly double the max wattage on mine. Wattage input figures are irrelevant. Its simply assuming x wattage = max charge amps. What some posters here dont understand is you cant go over the amperage rating (or voltage). If its a 100A controller do not go far over 100A...

Trickle charging - forget about it. Its handled by the renogy unit and youre only ever going to get to float after long drives or you lite discharge. Your concern is always under-charging. Especially with only 300w. At 50% discharge it will take over 12-13hrs to charge them. 8hrs at 25%...

I suspect there might be some confirmation bias...

Generator is for days of clouds. Lead cant go days upon days not getting charged or they sulfate. They can take about C/6. When you figure recharge stuff, subtract the load and factor progressive resistance curve to soc. More esoterically - lead is funny in that if you push high amps in CC...

This is a good topic for Will to do a video about. Not only does lifepo4 require much less solar it makes your current system produce more usable power because it doesnt need to absorb stage for hours.

Nope. Charging sources do not fight each other, in fact they compliment each other. If the current is already really high from alternator the mppt will adjust itself as if the battery is more full than it is.

Still worth while to go lithium route. We all been there done that on lead acid. This is coming from 10 years of experience. The 2 just dont work well together. I have same fridge and 20" tv. I know what they use. About 500w average on fridge. TV will pull 1.5-2A Fans will hurt ya. A 16" 120v...

My little 2cu ft that doesnt defrost with inverter is doing like 18w combined right now. Inverter is 10w. With maybe 24-28w at its peak in summer. Another guy reported his like 10ft did a few watts higher but i cant remember the thread it was in.

Youre solar will top balance with it.

Also when you buy lead for your first solar system those have traditionally been called your "starter set" because a newb is assured to ruin them. Most people, after their 2nd or 3rd set and thousands spent making boat anchors, lifepo4 doesnt look so damn expensive. I try to pass that lesson...

I have 30a on pv input, 150a battery sys 1 (1 year) 20a pv input, 100a battery sys 2 (18 months) Sys 2 in class C and outside under entry step. I have spare 50a I used for batttery side on sys 1 until i upgraded to large inverter setup. Before I got the 150a in I tested it with 600w toaster...