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Oh really? Thats not the first time Ive heard that type of stuff. Ive stayed away from their gatherings due to the bad taste in my mouth I was left with but every year their events seemed to quadruple and everyone loved it. Wouldnt mind hearing more if you feel inclined.

Spent me summer in wasatch disctrict!

Uuhhhh...you know many if not most of us vandwellers often have to run a heater (or brave the cold) on summer nights? Have you been to 10k+ feet in july? A heatwave might get you to low 80's in mid-afternoon. Colorado...

Summary: Battleborn tells you to charge to 100% only because they have a warranty and dont think their reputation matters, and that warranty is meaningless because they're insured, and the insurance company just charges a random over-priced rate that gets built into MSRP so battleborn can fool...

Welcome. River rat here about 75 miles up stream on the ohio. A machine shop off grid is interesting. Whats the specs on your system?

Then idk. Prolly be hard to theorize. I would do an actual test with a meter.

The shunbin cells were stamped 12.5% lower than advertised. Not sure if they actually tested low. Still a good deal.

Feel free to pm me and we can debate

Thats way overkill. I would stick to 4 and use the leftover funds to get a ~3kw backup generator with a 75A (max) charger. Reason being you absolutely HAVE to get lead batteries charged 100% everyday. 50A+ epever controllers have an automatic generator start relay that will automatically kick...

Yeah that's true for pretty much all inverters and controllers. Theres a reason no one makes a product for this or controllers dont have it built in. Nor is anyone else, or very very few, doing it.

What the guy said was the INTERNAL TEMP at 25f (not ambient) is fine at say 20A. Not at 100A. Charging lifepo4 in cold temps is not some rock solid 32f = ZERO charge. Its a sliding scale. The colder it is, the slower the charge needs to be. 20A is considered relatively light charge current...

Because it doesnt generate anything. Its a battery.

If you keep inverter close to batteries and use large wire i cant see any advantage.

Yeah...and same on mood too lol Loving this forum though. Super cool attitudes!

They rate 100ah so you can use 100ah keeping you from discharging below 10%. That doesnt mean youre not charging to full. Balancing requires the cells to reach 3.6v - 3.65v to balance. Thats called "top balancing."

My cheap $60 dorm fridge consumes about .7A at this time of year. 4.27A @ 17% duty cycle. Making it about 2x more efficient than anything 12v Ive ever seen. Combined with psw inverter 1.55A measured with shunt. Making it combined about the same as any 12v unit, even ones much smaller, Ive seen...

Its missing heat shrink. If the wire is snug it'll be fine.

Bulk - 14.7v (14.6v @ terminal) Float - 14.5v Bulk time - 180

You shouldnt have to turn it down now. If temp comp is on -1 it shouldnt go over about 14.8v or so. Idk if its in EQ or not. Its really just to keep controller from going to float way too early because these things boost is time based and not charge based.

My big fear on pulling the trigger on used batteries

Solar "stuff" has a ton of dogma on the internet. Common advice off web pages can often be just repeated cliches. The run down - Charging a battery swells the plates. Deep cycle - thick plates for deep discharge and recharge Starting - thin plates with dimples for surface area to make big...

Ok I just installed a shunt based battery monitor yesterday. Heres the results -Ambient at 8am - 60f outside probably 65f average inside. -1500w KRXNY pure sine inverter - 10w idle -TV on 5hrs - 20w Generally measured idle draw with all devices is .88a and with TV 2.5A. Fridge opened 6-8x...

Well the cheapest way to do it is to have a small inverter generator and 40-50a RV converter for backup charging. Next is to get as much solar as possible. Then finally more batteries. You can also get 280ah lifepo4 for $510 shipped on aliexpress. Or, and this is what I did, get a valance 138ah...

The batteries are probably toast now but sure try that. If I were you Id go get a cheap single marine battery. That will match your system much better and stay much healthier. This is exactly why we all want and are willing to pay for lifepo4. None of this stuff applies. What you take out you...

Youre that close to equator and only getting that few sunlight?? Damn. But yeah that sounds like a good plan to return them now. Then keep an eye on that charge voltage and getting to that magic number.

Like said its really for maint. I once destroyed a cheap PWM by unhooking the battery and leaving the panels. I did that knowing they say not but I routinely do it to my old epever and renogy rover without harm so I figured it would be ok. It took a split second and fried. But I still do it to...

Multi-plus. Theres a ton the one linked isnt exactly the right one. What youre wanting a bit pricey though. https://www.invertersupply.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=14744&gclid=CjwKCAiAqqTuBRBAEiwA7B66haqvHKMMV-eeLfoUEhjHFx7zsBMalib3nHAJoENOp-5d57-emupD4RoCFdEQAvD_BwE

Oh lord the boomers are gettin nostalgic lol

Yes only $200.... + $400 in extra solar + $700 generator + $100 for a charger + $150 controller upgrade + 100 in watering and test equipment.

If the bms fails it disconnects the battery terminal stopping all charging. Not to mention your controllers limit. And AGM can explode too. Seems to be a theme of people holding onto lead and being overly emotional about the subject. I figure theyre annoyed they cant afford lifepo4 so find any...