All in one inverter for my tiny camper remodel how does my diagram look?

[BobShrunkle]

Hello, I posted a similar question in the beginner forum but I'm thinking I should have posted it here.

I am building a small system for my camper and am wondering how my plan looks. The camper has no air conditioning or fridge.
The only 120 A/C we will be using will be small loads and not that often.
The main D/C usage will be water pump, furnace fan and just a couple led lights.
I've drawn this two ways, one with bus bars and one without. I'm guessing the advantage of bus bar is having the positive bus down from the battery breaker/fuse.
The original camper converter has been removed.

I'm not sure what gauge to use on the battery (or neg bus) to chassis ground. I am assuming that it is needed though...

Components:
MPP Solar PIP1012LV-MS (manual calls for 10 amp breaker)
LiTime 12v 230ah battery
4 gauge battery cable

I'll attach both with and without bus bar diagrams.
Any other issues? Thanks.

 

[Rednecktek]

The bus bar option is easier to work with and makes it easier to add more batteries later.

 

[BobShrunkle]

The bus bar option is easier to work with and makes it easier to add more batteries later.

That makes sense. I hope this simple setup doesn't need any more batteries.... Ha Ha.

 

[fiox89]

I haven't studied your situation, but I can tell you what I did. 150AH lithium battery, connection to the vehicle ground with 2 AWG cable. In hindsight, probably oversized, a 4 AWG 4 would have been sufficient. In my case, I have always used direct positive and negative connections on the bus bars. If you plan to use the chassis of the vehicle to take the negative, and if the loads become more important than some lights, then things could change and I couldn't tell you exactly how to calculate the section.

As for bus bars, I can tell you absolutely go for it. Indeed, take them oversized, you have no idea how many contacts you will need in the future. I thought I had bought something decidedly oversized, and now I'm running out of contacts haha (check the SafetyHub 150 Fuse Block, it's expensive but if you have little space it's an excellent solution, it has both negative and positive bus bars with fuses)

 

[RV8R]

There is a good download for you to consider here;

Grounding Made simpler - Part 1: AC/houshold grounding

To get the paper, click on the orange button at the top of the screen. The subject of grounding is a complex, multifaceted subject, that is often treated as an after-thought but needs to be considered from the beginning of the design and build...

diysolarforum.com

Blue Sea terminal “fuse bus” double ;

Dual MRBF Terminal Fuse Block - 30 to 300A - Blue Sea Systems

Easily and economically satisfies ABYC 7 circuit protection rule by mounting on a 3/8 battery post, battery switch or bus bar.

www.bluesea.com

 

[0truck0]

Electrically it does not matter. Buss bars are nicer and do that if you have that option. WIth FLA you DO want to get all your connections away from the battery a few inches so do use a buss bar, this is due to the FLA off gassing, with lithium this issue does not exist.

I have a stack of copper terminals on my lithium battery pos terminal bc was easier than adding more stuff (bus bar) to the small space. One lug from alternator, one going to fuse block, one going straight to the fridge and one going to a special switch. The negative has one going to the shunt though.

 

[BobShrunkle]

There is a good download for you to consider here;

Grounding Made simpler - Part 1: AC/houshold grounding

To get the paper, click on the orange button at the top of the screen. The subject of grounding is a complex, multifaceted subject, that is often treated as an after-thought but needs to be considered from the beginning of the design and build...

diysolarforum.com

Thanks I'll give that a read.

 

[BobShrunkle]

Electrically it does not matter. Buss bars are nicer and do that if you have that option. WIth FLA you DO want to get all your connections away from the battery a few inches so do use a buss bar, this is due to the FLA off gassing, with lithium this issue does not exist.

I have a stack of copper terminals on my lithium battery pos terminal bc was easier than adding more stuff (bus bar) to the small space. One lug from alternator, one going to fuse block, one going straight to the fridge and one going to a special switch. The negative has one going to the shunt though.

This is what I was thinking as far as bus bar vs battery terminals. If I only have 2 terminals on the positive and 3 on the negative it might not be too bad.