diy solar

diy solar

Cmax cells

The energy pack was given to me so I'll be out time and the cost of the bmss which appears to be about 100 bucks each. Thank you very much for all the info

If you're okay with the cost of each BMS per module, I'd choose that route too.

I'd measure all 84 cells for voltage/IR with a YR1030 or YR1035 (some are indicated with a "+" at the end) and record them in a spreadsheet.

Test capacity at least 5 from each pack, #1, 6, 11, 16, 21.

What part of Oregon?
 
Roseburg. I measured every cell in the pack I'm working on and they're all within a millivolt I believe
 
Now I'm on eBay trying to pick out the right BMS and I'm thinking it would be the jbd 24 volt 8s is that correct?
 

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Now I'm on eBay trying to pick out the right BMS and I'm thinking it would be the jbd 24 volt 8s is that correct?

No. You will be 7S not 8S

Do you know anything about this sriko?

Yes. As a backup to my Batrium, I bought a 14S JBD from them and got it up and running before I deployed the battery (site is 3.5 hours from home).

They got it to me in two days.

Dedicated 7S on this page:


6-21S options (can be installed on anything from 6-21S series cells if you ever want to reconfigure):


MAKE SURE WHATEVER YOU GET SAYS LI-ION, not LiFePO4

Since the 100A is out of stock, I'd probably go with this 80A:

 
Got a couple 80a coming. Made aluminum bus bars curious noalox ?


Info on my battery:

 
I just got one of these that have 4 modules. So I will be looking this over so I can do 24V system soon as I will be testing with my 12v system that I have now
 
Ok So If I am looking at this correctly I will need 3 to make 11.1v Battery I will need to connect 7 of those in series
So, where you say you have a break is there an actual break in the BusBar?
So, the model of 21 and the picture where there are 7 cells how are the batteries arranged? Is the top all negative and bottom all Positive?
or at each break do they swap.
I have 4 modules and looking to set up a 24v just like Lake Did.

@lakehead7 Do you have any pics of your setup as I would like to do the same looking for ideas.
Also, can I get a 60A BMS or does it need to be for 80A

With the images I have seen looks like I should just need 4 BMS units.

Also with all 4 modules hooked up what are we looking at for Amp Hours.
I am sure it will be way better than my 4- 12v 100ah batteries that are on there now.

Thanks
 
You have two options:

1) wire each module as a 3P7S "24V" battery and put a BMS on it. Then parallel the 4 batteries.
2) String a 12P7S battery across the 4 modules as described on page 1:

CX = Cell 1, 2, 3, etc.
YP = # of NMC cells in parallel

Module 1: C1-12P, C2-9P
Module 2: C2-3P, C3-12P, C4-6P
Module 3: C4-6P, C5-12P, C6-3P
Module 4: C6-9P, C7-12P

The groups in bold are 12P cells split across a module. Crude example:

1713833569905.png
 
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You have two options:

1) wire each module as a 3P7S "24V" battery and put a BMS on it. Then parallel the 4 batteries.
2) String a 12P7S battery across the 4 modules as described on page 1:

CX = Cell 1, 2, 3, etc.
YP = # of NMC cells in parallel

Module 1: C1-12P, C2-9P
Module 2: C2-3P, C3-12P, C4-6P
Module 3: C4-6P, C5-12P, C6-3P
Module 4: C6-9P, C7-12P

The groups in bold are 12P cells split across a module. Crude example:

View attachment 210964
Ok thanks would you recommend that I set up a or 48v? I am going to have to buy a new charge controller. I just want to see what I should do.

Thanks for the help
 
Ok thanks would you recommend that I set up a or 48v? I am going to have to buy a new charge controller. I just want to see what I should do.

Thanks for the help

I'm setup for 48V, but I have 28 modules... 14 in reserve (too lazy to build it) and 14 deployed in 21P14S config.

48V would require 6P14S, so you'd break the cells more often.

1714078626656.png

Note the X is there to indicate that you're not spanning a 6P "cell" across that gap, but you WILL connect those two 6P cells in series.

I can't tell you either way. It's 7.6kWh when new. I'd test a handful from each module to check where you are. Resting voltages of healthy cells should be ±.01V of each other (a little more might be okay).

In operation:
20% = 3.5V/cell
75% = 3.92V/cell

Keeping normal operation in that range will give you 10s of thousands of cycles provided the battery is in reasonable health.

For simplicity, you MIGHT also want to consider 7P12S. This isn't optimal, but many use Tesla modules in 12S config for 48V. It might simplify it for you since each module will be 3 cells.
 
I'm setup for 48V, but I have 28 modules... 14 in reserve (too lazy to build it) and 14 deployed in 21P14S config.

48V would require 6P14S, so you'd break the cells more often.

View attachment 211547

Note the X is there to indicate that you're not spanning a 6P "cell" across that gap, but you WILL connect those two 6P cells in series.

I can't tell you either way. It's 7.6kWh when new. I'd test a handful from each module to check where you are. Resting voltages of healthy cells should be ±.01V of each other (a little more might be okay).

In operation:
20% = 3.5V/cell
75% = 3.92V/cell

Keeping normal operation in that range will give you 10s of thousands of cycles provided the battery is in reasonable health.

For simplicity, you MIGHT also want to consider 7P12S. This isn't optimal, but many use Tesla modules in 12S config for 48V. It might simplify it for you since each module will be 3 cells.
Yeah I am limited to the 4 modules. so maybe I will do the 3 cells and set a 24v system with the 4 modules then. also at that point with all 4 modules I will just need 4 BMS 7s units then right?
 
I'm setup for 48V, but I have 28 modules... 14 in reserve (too lazy to build it) and 14 deployed in 21P14S config.

48V would require 6P14S, so you'd break the cells more often.

View attachment 211547

Note the X is there to indicate that you're not spanning a 6P "cell" across that gap, but you WILL connect those two 6P cells in series.

I can't tell you either way. It's 7.6kWh when new. I'd test a handful from each module to check where you are. Resting voltages of healthy cells should be ±.01V of each other (a little more might be okay).

In operation:
20% = 3.5V/cell
75% = 3.92V/cell

Keeping normal operation in that range will give you 10s of thousands of cycles provided the battery is in reasonable health.

For simplicity, you MIGHT also want to consider 7P12S. This isn't optimal, but many use Tesla modules in 12S config for 48V. It might simplify it for you since each module will be 3 cells.
Looks like all batteries are 3.54v
 
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Yeah I am limited to the 4 modules. so maybe I will do the 3 cells and set a 24v system with the 4 modules then. also at that point with all 4 modules I will just need 4 BMS 7s units then right?

yeah, if you do 3P7S, that's a "24V" NMC battery. You'll need a 7S Li-ion BMS for each module.

Looks like all batteries are 3.54v

cells :p

That's good. Sitting at a low-ish SoC is good for these cells.
 
yeah, if you do 3P7S, that's a "24V" NMC battery. You'll need a 7S Li-ion BMS for each module.



cells :p

That's good. Sitting at a low-ish SoC is good for these cells.

Ok great and would this one work or is there one that you recommend?

I have got it all figured out and I think I will be building a wooden enclosure for it instead of using the metal one it came with.

Thanks
 
Ok great and would this one work or is there one that you recommend?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09W9T8D2...L9HMAP20K&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1
I have got it all figured out and I think I will be building a wooden enclosure for it instead of using the metal one it came with.

I built up my battery bank from Chevy Bolt battery modules. The process is a bit different, but does share a lot of the same issues. One big difference, the Bolt cells are pouch style with tabs spot welded to the bus bars.

Building your battery into 4 separate 3P7S batteries will give you some options later. For "24 volts" you run the 4 batteries in parallel and they will share the current. But I think the BMS you linked is a bit light. 40 amps each x 4 is 160 amps total. At 24 volts, that is almost 4,000 watts, so it might be enough, but only if the 4 batteries share the load current equally. The cells can take more current, so I would go with a higher current BMS to be on the safe side, and also reduce the series resistance. The other issue is the BMS you linked is a split port type. IF all of your charging is from a DC charge controller, and all of your loads are separate from any charging source, it can work, but most here use a common port BMS and the charge and discharge both flow through the same port. The charge rate on that separate port is only 10 amps also. Even with 4 in parallel, that is a maximum of 40 amps of charge current, or under 1,000 watts of charge power on a 24 volt system.

Here is the 100 amp common port "Smart" version with Blue Tooth.


I am using a pair of the dumb version, no blue tooth. They have been working just fine for nearly 2 years now. I miss the cell monitoring, and wish I had gotten the smarter version. My other bank is using a JK-BMS with a 200 amp rating, blue tooth monitoring, and 2 amps of active balancing. It's a great part, but you do pay for it, to about $300 now for the 200 amp up to 24S unit I have. Many "Smart" BMS units can be programmed for a range of cell counts and charge/discharge voltage and current protection limits. Another option I am looking at is the new "100 Balance" BMS units. The look like Day, only blue instead of red, and I have heard they are made at the same factory. They claim to use active balancing similar to the JK BMS. They are priced between the basic Daly and the JK family for similar ratings.

If you do decide to go to 48 volts later, you may want to check now if the BMS you choose will support it. Some BMS units can't ever tolerate a shut down event when wired in series with another BMS. This happens because the voltage across the MOSFETs will be near double if it has to shut down. If you find a smart programmable BMS that can run from 7 or less cells up to 14 or 16 cells, then you can just wire up the common BMS across all of the cells. 14S for Li NMC EV cells, or 16S for LFP cells to make 48 volts.

Just to be sure, what is the height of your C-Max battery module? If you see 5 amps shown on the cells, it sounds like the 1.4 KWH Hybrid battery pack. I drive a C-Max Hybrid. Those cells are small, but can crank out crazy current. The 24 amp Energi cells are not much bigger, but they pack in 24 amp hours. The maximum current is actually close. The hybrid also has a few less cells. I think it is just 76S instead of 84S.
 
Ok great and would this one work or is there one that you recommend?

I have got it all figured out and I think I will be building a wooden enclosure for it instead of using the metal one it came with.

Thanks

I would NEVER use a DALY, nor would I cheap out on the BMS for batteries with the potential to be explosive. I'm not saying you need to spend > $1000 like I did, but a smart BMS is absolutely in order.

I'm a fan of JBD. Here are some 7S options.

 
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